Buttercup Weed Management

Last year many people were dismayed to find a sea of yellow flowers in their pasture when spring rolled around. While buttercups can be pretty to look at and a sure sign that spring has arrived, their toxicity to livestock and their invasive nature make them a very unwanted sight in a pasture. 

Buttercup is a short-lived perennial weed that behaves more like a winter annual. It begins to germinate in the fall and grows into the spring when the weather warms up. It has characteristic shiny, bright yellow flowers with five petals. This weed thrives in pastures where there is little competition, such as overgrazed areas or bare patches.

All parts of the plant are toxic to livestock and can cause blistering in the mouth and internal parts of the digestive tract, diarrhea, colic, and even death in extreme cases. However, buttercup is bitter and most horses will refuse to eat it as long as other forage options are available. The toxin that causes these issues will not be active when the buttercup is dried, so it is not a concern in hay.

Since buttercup starts growth in the fall, it is important to have a thick stand of grass that will prevent the new seedlings from taking root. Proper fertilization and grazing management in the fall will help encourage this thick stand. Avoid overgrazing throughout the winter to prevent creating an environment that is favorable to buttercup growth.

When buttercups are present, mowing in the spring can help reduce flowers and therefore seed development. But mowing alone will not eliminate the plant and the problems it poses.

Chemical control is a very effective strategy, but it is important to utilize this method early. Once it flowers, the plant is too mature for herbicides to have effective control. The ideal time to apply herbicides is late February through early March while the weeds are still small. 2,4-D is an effective herbicide that provides good control when applied early. Other effective herbicide options include aminopyralids (eg. GrazonNext), 2,4-D + dicamba (eg. WeedMaster), triclopyr (eg. Crossbow), or metsulfuron (eg. Cimmaron). Picking the right product can depend on other weeds you need to control at the same time. 

If your pasture had issues with buttercup last year, you can count on them being back again this year. Start scouting early and be prepared to utilize control methods.  If infestations have been heavy in the past, do not expect this problem to go away after one herbicide application. It can take several years of timely chemical control to get the buttercup under control. Always encourage a thick healthy stand of grass to help reduce weed pressure.  

Breeding Considerations

Many of us have that mare we believe is special and would like to breed her, but there are many things to consider before starting your journey. 

1. Does my mare possess the desired traits that should be passed on to her offspring?

Is the mare conformationally correct and does she have a good attitude and disposition?  These are certainly hereditary traits she will pass on, and those traits should also be considered in the stallion you select to breed her to! 

2. Why am I breeding my mare?

Owning a horse is a long-term commitment, and having a foal requires even more commitment.  We all love cute foals, but with them comes increased care and cost.  A pregnant mare requires increased nutrition, particularly the last three months of her pregnancy, and while she is nursing her foal.  Are you prepared to work with your foal to ensure they are handled and cared for?  Do you have a plan for training them for their future intended purpose?

3.  Is my mare healthy enough to conceive a foal and carry it safely to term? 

A mare should be in prime condition before breeding time arrives.  Mares should be a body condition score between 5 and 6, carrying a little extra condition but not too heavy.  Is she current on her vaccination on a sound parasite management program? Has she had a recent dental exam and are her hooves in good shape? Are there any underlying signs of disease such as Cushings Disease or thyroid imbalance? 

2.  Has my mare undergone a reproductive exam by a veterinarian?

Not all mares are created equal.  A breeding soundness exam will ensure all reproductive parts are in good working order.  A mare with poor perineal conformation (the vulvar lips, vaginal area, and cervix) will be more susceptible to infections caused by contamination from external particles in the uterus.  A uterine culture can rule out any infections that may need treatment pre-breeding and stitching the vulvar lips, called a Caslicks, can prevent further infections post-breeding and stitches are removed pre-foaling. Ultrasound exam of the uterus can also determine the health of the uterus. 

3.  Do I have a plan to monitor when my mare needs to be bred?

As with people, knowing the prime conception window is important.  Mares cycle seasonally when days or longer, or when they are exposed to longer periods of artificial light.  After they begin to cycle, mares come into heat about every 21 days and their heat period lasts five to seven days, with ovulation happening the last 24-48 hours of the heat period. Breeding should occur as close as possible to ovulation, so knowing exactly how a mare's heat cycle occurs plays an important in planning when she needs to be bred. On many breeding operations, an intact male horse known as a teaser is a valuable tool to help predict when the mare is closest to ovulation.

4.  Will I breed my mare through artificial insemination (AI) or live cover?

Either method is a viable means of ensuring pregnancy, unless you are seeking to have a registered Thoroughbred as they accept live cover only.  Both methods take planning however, whether it be to arrange transportation to a stallion farm for live cover based on their requirements, or purchasing semen for AI and working with a veterinarian for insemination at the proper time. 

There is nothing more exciting that witnessing a foaling, especially when a healthy
foal arrives from a healthy mare. Considering the above factors will help you achieve success!  

Forage Alternatives

 

As we enter the dog days of winter, it is not uncommon for our hay stores to run low. For some, this poses a challenge if there is not a sufficient supply of quality hay for sale nearby. One might have to resort to a forage alternative, to make it through to spring when the grass again becomes prevalent.

There are a variety of forage alternatives available, and the best option will depend on a variety of issues, including the body condition of the horse, his/her physiological state, the quality of forage alternatives accessible in the area and, of course, cost. These forage replacements can help stretch hay supplies through the winter months, or they can even help in summer months when grazing is limited during times of severe drought. Some forage options available commercially are chopped hay, hay cubes/pellets, beet pulp, haylage, etc.

Chopped hay also called “chaff,” is becoming more common in equine diets. It can provide a mix of digestible and indigestible fiber to maintain proper function of the digestive tract. Chaff is also sometimes mixed with molasses to enhance palatability and sometimes has added nutrients to provide for a more complete ration.

Forage cubes/pellets simply are hay that has been chopped coarsely (or finely) and formed (with the addition of a binder) into scoopable, baggable pieces. They’re more convenient to move around than baled hay, and they have the advantage of a guaranteed nutritional content that is posted on the bag so you know exactly what you’re delivering in terms of essential nutrients. Hay cubes and pellets come in a variety of sizes and textures, from soft and crumbly to quite hard, and they can be all-alfalfa hay, all-grass hay, a mixture of the two, or even hay mixed with other products.

Beet pulp is one of the most commonly fed forage alternatives. The digestible energy and fiber content generally falls between that of grains and hays, the protein content is similar to a decent quality grass hay, and it is relatively high in calcium. You can feed it to meet up to 50% of the forage content of the diet, ideally limiting it to 10 pounds, on a dry weight basis per day. Beet pulp is usually fed soaked to mitigate any issues associated with choke.


Soybean hulls are high in fiber and are one of the most digestible hull types. They can be used to replace about 50% of the forage. They are rather lightweight and tend to blow away if not either pelleted or mixed with a binder, such as molasses. The biggest drawback to feeding hulls is they are usually dusty, have very low vitamin content and result in less overall chew time which can minimize the amount of bicarbonate produced that acts as a temporary stomach buffer.

Haylage is more commonly fed in European countries, although in recent years it has gained some popularity in the United States. Haylage is a form of chopped hay that is harvested and baled with a moisture content higher than traditional hay. It is sealed in plastic, allowing for some fermentation before being fed.

Advantages of haylage are that it is relatively dust-free because of its higher moisture content, and it is also slightly higher in nutritive value. The biggest concern with haylage is the development of mold and mycotoxins if it is not stored properly. It will mold quickly–usually within four to five days–once the package is opened and the forage is exposed to air.

Keep in mind that in order to maintain proper digestive health, roughages/forages must make up a minimum of 50% of a horse’s diet on a dry weight basis, or about 1 pound per 100 pounds of body weight. Also, make any changes to the horse’s diet gradually. Feed horses on the lower-fiber alternatives more frequently (four times a day) to satisfy the basic grazing requirements and to reduce boredom or less than ideal behaviors.