Estimating Winter Hay Needs for Horses

It’s time for horse owners to make plans to for the colder weather ahead. For most horses, cold weather does not mean coming in from the cold, but being provided with the necessary nutrients to ensure they are as comfortable as possible. Planning ahead for how much hay is needed for feeding all winter is essential for maintaining healthy horses.
Jennie Ivey, University of Tennessee Extension equine specialist, says ideally, a horse should consume between 1.5 percent to 2 percent of their body weight of hay or forage per day (dry matter basis). For example, a 1000 pound horse will eat 15 to 20 pounds of hay daily. That’s the equivalent of roughly one small square bale of 40-60 pounds every few days. The exact number of bales needed for winter feeding will depend on the weight of the bale.
“It is best to determine how much your horse will need to get through the winter based on their daily consumption” Ivey states, “Next, determine the total amount of hay needed,” she adds.
Low temperatures, high winds and precipitation can increase the amount of energy horses need per day. “That means during extreme conditions you may need to increase the amount of hay horses consume. Supplementation with grain or concentrate is needed when a horse is having difficulty maintaining weight or body condition,” she cautions.
Round bales are also a good option for horse owners, especially for those needing to maintain horses outside. On average, between 7 to 10 horses can consume one round bale (800-1200 pounds) in 3-4 days. Feeding round bales out of a feeder can greatly reduce waste and ensure that horses have access to fresh hay even during inclement weather.
Not all hay is created equal. Ivey recommends having your hay tested for nutrient content to ensure it meets the horse’s nutritional needs. Forge analysis can be performed by the UT Soil, Plant and Pest center (ag.tennessee.edu/spp). Ivey also reminds owners to check all hay for mold and dust before feeding. “Dusty hay can lead to respiratory problems, while moldy hay can cause colic,” she says.
For help estimating your horse’s weight, having your hay tested, interpretation of forage tests, or any other equine related questions contact your county extension office.

Finding the Right Farrier

Finding the right farrier for you and your horse can sometimes be difficult.  It is my hope that this post will help you understand more about what you should be looking for in a farrier during the decision-making process.

One of the best ways to find a good farrier is by word of mouth. However, if you have just moved to an area or do not know many horse owners to ask, the best resources are your veterinarian and other industry professionals such as your county extension agent.  Additional resources for locating a farrier include the North Carolina Horseshoers Association and the Horse Section of NCDA&CS to name a few.  Here are a few points to consider when searching for the right farrier:

Education. Some farriers enter the profession through formal education, some through apprenticeship, and some through a combination of the two. Regardless, a farrier should be knowledgeable about their field. Anyone can trim and shoe horses in the U.S. because no licensing or certification is required. Farriers should be well-versed in equine anatomy, physiology, and biomechanics and should be able to read a radiograph of the foot. Many good farriers will continue their education through reading and or attending clinics, seminars, and conferences. Ask if the farrier belongs to any organizations, for example the North Carolina Horseshoers Association.

Experience. A farrier's experience is also important. Be sure to ask how long they have been trimming or shoeing horses, whether they have been doing it regularly, and if they have any areas of specialization. It is important to match the farrier's education and background to your needs. A normal, sound horse, used for occasional trail rides does not need the same level of expertise as an upper level show horse or a horse with lameness problems. Keep in mind that some farriers specialize in a particular breed or riding discipline.

Horsemanship. Observe how the farrier interacts with horses. Does the farrier spend time watching how the horse moves and lands on his feet; do they carefully look at and assess the foot; and does the farrier work quietly and calmly around the horse? These considerations not only affect the quality of the farrier's work, they can impact the safety of all involved. Equally important is ensuring your horse stands well for the farrier and is well behaved.

Attitude. Make sure a prospective farrier enjoys their work, does not rush, pays attention to detail, and seems to care about the welfare of the horse and owner. Ensure the farrier is punctual and reliable with appointments, and calls when running late. Finally, make sure they are willing to work in cooperation with a veterinarian, if necessary.

Communication. Choose someone who is easy to communicate and get-along with. This should include conversations regarding the owners goals, the horses' needs, and the owners financial situation. Your farrier should be willing to discuss and or explain the trimming or shoeing process. Make sure they are easy to reach during an emergency situation. Farriers and horse owners should work together cooperatively and share mutual respect.

Cost. Cost will vary by region and the horse's needs. Ask other horse owners in your area or discipline what they are paying for similar services. Never choose a farrier based on cost alone. The important issue is not the cost, but the quality of service received. A more experienced farrier can be expected to charge more than someone new to the profession.

Sources: Krishona Martinson, PhD, University of Minnesota and Kim Otterson, County Line Farm

Link to Original Article: http://www.extension.umn.edu/agriculture/horse/care/finding-a-farrier/

Water Consumption in Winter

With the approach of winter comes the increased threat of impaction colic to our horses out there. Impaction colic cases increase when the weather turns cold, mainly because the animals are not drinking enough water and staying hydrated. It’s easy to remember during the hot, sweaty summer that your horse needs lots of fresh water but this is just as important during the cold months.

An adult horse needs between 5 and 10 gallons of water per day to stay hydrated. In the winter, most horses are surviving on hay which has significantly less water than fresh forage (pasture), so they will need to get more of that water from their buckets or troughs. Heated buckets and stock tank heaters are a good way to keep your water from freezing and encourage your horses to drink. Horses will do most of their drinking within 3 hours of feeding…keep this is in mind when thinking about your watering schedule and temperature. Knowing this can help you make sure that the water is warm enough when the animals are actually interested in drinking.

Another way to encourage water consumption is to offer free-choice salt or add electrolytes to your horse’s feed. This can be especially important when the weather is changing drastically, which we are all to familiar with here in eastern North Carolina. Be sure to check with your vet on appropriate amounts for your animal!

Water is the most important nutrient for all livestock, including horses. Make sure your horses are consuming enough water during these winter months and encourage consumption with salt, electrolytes, or a mash (especially for those older horses) when it’s cold outside!

Stallion Breeding Reports

Attention American Quarter Horse Association Stallion Owners:

Don't forget to submit your stallion breeding report by November 30th to avoid any late fees. It needs to be postmarked by that date or entered on-line.

Forms can be found at: http://www.aqha.com/About/Content-Pages/About-the-Association/Services/Submit-Stallion-Breeding-Reports.aspx

Foal Management

This article will discuss foal management during the preweaning period.  Before weaning, foals are rapidly growing and can gain 2.5 to 3 pounds per day with good management.  The foal is interacting more with its environment and is becoming independent.  Below are several management topics to optimize health and future productivity of the foal.

Gentling and Halter Breaking

There are several advantages to handling a foal while it is still with its mother.  Usually, successful methods work on the principle of rewarding the foal for submitting to human touch and yielding to pressure.  Things to remember are that younger foals are smaller and easier to control.  Gentling the foal before weaning should lessen trauma and decrease possible injuries at weaning.  University studies suggest that handling during preweaning period increases the foal’s manageability and learning ability.  Foals can be halter broken after they are at least 1 week old.

Creep Feeding

Mare’s milk may not be enough energy to meet the needs of a 4 month old or older foal, so consider creep feeding.  Providing a balanced feed after 2 months of age will increase preweaning growth and get the foal used to eating feed.  Use feed formulated for foals to provide the correct nutrition.  Introduce foals to small amounts (2-3 pounds/feeding) and then gradually increase the feed until available free-choice.  Use or build a creep feeder to keep the mare and other older animals out to allow the foals to get the feed. 

 

Health Care

A horse is at the highest risk of disease for the first year of life.  Their immune system is not adequate to produce antibodies until at least 2 months of age.  The foal is depending on colostrum (received at birth) from its mother to protect it from diseases.  Diarrhea and septicemia are the biggest disease risks the first week of life.  Diarrhea can cause dehydration of the foal.  Septicemia or joint/navel ill is caused by bacteria in the blood and can cause death.  It is usually seen 3-4 days after birth.  Signs include depression, decrease nursing, diarrhea and excessive sleeping.  Other health problems include respiratory infections and pneumonia. 

Proper management of the mare and foal will reduce disease potential in foals.  Place mares in foaling area 30 days prior to foaling to give time to develop antibodies to organisms in their environment.  Make sure mares have been vaccinated and dewormed and use your veterinarian to make recommendations on when is the best time for your horses.  It is best to foal outside on a clean, grassy pasture, but if you foal in a stall make sure it is clean and disinfected between mares. 

Consult your vet about vaccination and deworming programs for foals.  Also perform regular hoof care on foals.  Cuts, bruises, and scrapes are common health problems in foals less than 6 months of age.  If possible, keep mares and foals without halters so they do not get tangled up or caught on objects.  Maintain a safe pasture environment for the curious young foals.

You have a big investment in your mare and foal, so make sure you are protecting them both and working towards having a friendly, confident foal that will hopefully have less stress when it is time to wean them.  For more in-depth reading on this topic, check out the article Foal Management During the Preweaning Period  from Alabama Cooperative Extension and eXHorses.

Winterizing Your Barn and Horses

The temperatures are beginning to drop, telling us winter will soon be here. Start now to prepare for harsh weather by making sure your barn and horses will be ready when it hits.

Start with the barn by making sure there are no leaks or rust in the roof and windows. Make sure doors can be closed tightly to keep out strong winds but be sure windows can be easily opened and closed to provide proper ventilation if the horses have to stay in their stalls. Wrap and/or insulate pipes, spouts, and faucets to prevent water from freezing. Have a tool, like a hammer, that is easy to get to when checking water troughs and breaking ice. If your horses are outside all the time, provide them with an area to get out of the bad conditions, like a run-in shed. Stock up on feed and hay. Hay supplies could run out or prices may increase and bad driving conditions could prevent you from getting to the feed store. Clean the barn and get rid of cobwebs, dust, and other debris that could be a potential fire hazard. Check fences and gates to ensure they are in proper working order.

Be sure your horses are up-to-date on their fall shots to help prevent respiratory issues during the winter. Getting your horse to drink an adequate amount of water during the winter is a challenge. Encourage them to drink by providing warm water. Giving them salt or electrolytes can also help. When deciding whether or not to put a blanket on your horse it's better to wait for them to get a thick coat before putting a blanket on. Putting a blanket on too early will discourage hair from growing. If you keep your horses on pasture and there is bad weather, provide them with good quality, free-choice hay to help keep them warm. When they eat hay their digestive system works slower and generates a lot of heat keeping them warmer than if they were eating grain with limited access to hay. If your horses have to be locked in their stalls for an extended period of time, be sure to provide plenty of fresh air. If the footing allows, turn them out when you're picking their stalls to allow them to stretch their legs.

Don't forget about your farm equipment. Inspect hydraulic, fuel, and electrical systems on all equipment, along with the ignition, brakes, exhaust, heater, defroster, and windshield wipers. Make sure there is enough anti-freeze in the system. Have proper fuel additives for diesel tractors for when the temperatures get below zero. Try to always keep fuel tanks full. If you have a generator, check to make sure that is in working order. If your electricity does go out and you do not have a generator, keep some water stored in the barn so it doesn't freeze to ensure you can still get water to the horses.

If you have any more questions about how to winterize your barn and horse, contact your local Extension Agent.

Hay Supplies

Summer vacations and pool parties are over.  Fall is upon us and hopefully horse owners have already planned for winter feed supplies.  If not, you will need to do so as soon as possible.  Of course, if you have a winter grass, that is the most economical way to feed them.  If you don’t have enough grass to last all winter or don’t have the equipment to cut your own hay, you should have already purchased it to store during the summer months.  In most years, around January or February, our Extension offices are flooded with calls from livestock owners desperately seeking hay.  That time period is the unfortunate gap between where hay farmers are sold out and the summer grass has not come on yet.

Whether you have a way to store your hay on your farm, can store it with someone else, or just need to stack it in the field, it is best to get your supply now while hay is still available.  With the weather we’ve been having this year, we will probably have another shortage again next spring, so be prepared.  If you cannot find enough hay, you may need to reduce your number of horses.  You can locate hay providers at these websites:  http://www.ncagr.gov/hayalert/ or http://onslow.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/67/HayDirectory.pdf.  The best way to estimate how much hay you will need is to keep record every year on how many horses you have fed for how many days with how many bales.  You can then adjust accordingly based off of shortages or surpluses.  If you don’t have a record or are raising horses for the first time, you can estimate how much hay you might need below.

You need to first figure out the number of days that hay is required.  This will vary from around 90 to 150 days, depending on the climate in your area and the amount of stockpiled forage available.  When estimating quantity of hay, it is best to obtain the average weight of several bales and then multiply this times the number of bales.  Remember that large bales stored outside may have substantial losses during storage and feeding, which must be taken into consideration.  Remember that estimating feed requirements is just that, only a quick estimate. To be more accurate you need to consider exact nutritional requirements for the size of animal and stage of reproduction or growth desired.  Also, feed supply can be more accurately estimated if you have a forage analysis to determine the exact nutrient content.

A good quick estimate for adult horses is that they need about half a square bale of hay per day.  So if you feed 2 horses for 150 days, you would need approximately 150 square bales or around 10 round bales.  This is considering the average weight of your square bales is 55 lbs and the average weight of your round bales is 825 lbs.     

We will be more than happy to help you with more in depth calculations and numbers specific to your farm to estimate hay needs for your horses.  However, we would much rather help you calculate hay supply needs now, then to struggle to help you find hay in the spring.  If you need help with hay estimations, please call your local Extension Agent for assistance.