To Blanket or Not to Blanket?

Courtesy of: Nettie R. Liburt, MS, Animal Science Doctoral Student and Carey Williams, Ph.D., Extension Specialist in Equine Management

As fall arrives and temperatures are cooling, many horse-people may be wondering if blanketing their horses is appropriate. The answer really depends on the individual horse, its physiology, shelter type, tolerance to cold and its activity schedule. Typically in early fall, horse’s coats get a little thicker. Despite even warm fall temperatures, horses naturally begin to grow more hair as the days get shorter. There are no scientific rules about what temperature a horse should have a particular blanket, but if one decides to do so, there are several things to consider.
Clipping
Many owners/riders clip their horses to prevent them from getting a chill if their long winter coats are wet after a workout. Sounds ironic, but clipping a horse for winter can actually help the horse cool out from a workout and prevent a chill caused by a wet coat. However, proper management of a clipped horse is necessary. Whether your horse has a full body clip, trace clip, hunter clip or any kind of clip, one should blanket when the temperature drops, especially for turnout. Some people recommend starting to put sheets on clipped horses when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, however, you should monitor your horse to decide what is best.
If one dreads clipping their horse, but doesn’t want a sweaty horse in January, one can blanket to help prevent a thick winter coat. Training intensity usually diminishes in the winter, and some horses rarely work up a lathered sweat. The catch with this approach is, once the sheeting and blanketing begins, it must continue throughout the season. When horses wear blankets and sheets all the time, it can tend to “flatten” the coat, causing it to lose insulating ability. That doesn’t mean that blanketing this year means an obligation to blanket next year, but once one starts blanketing, expect blanket duty all season long. Another option to help thin a heavy winter hair coat is to implement an artificial light regime, which will lengthen the amount of light in a day to 16 hours; this protocol is similar to that used to stimulate the reproductive cycle earlier in the spring.
Cold Adaptation
There are lots of other factors one can consider when deciding on winter horse clothing. Does your horse have trouble keeping weight on? Does the aged horse have trouble staying warm? Or, will the horse just tear the clothing off its body 30 seconds after it is in place? In any case, one can find a solution that works best for each individual horse.
Remember that when temperatures drop, horses have an increased energy (calorie) requirement to stay warm. Horses ferment fiber in their large intestine, and a byproduct of this process is heat. Thus, more hay added to the diet will help keep the horse warm during cold months. This process only works for hay; so increase hay and NOT grain. As a general rule, a 1% increase in energy requirement is needed to replace energy loss from cold weather for each degree the temperature falls below the horse’s critical temperature. Critical temperature is the temperature below which a horse starts to expend additional energy to provide warmth. This temperature for individual horses will vary because of fat cover, hair thickness, acclimatization of the horse to cold, wetness, and wind-chill.
Adaptation to cold is also important. The climate in the Northeast usually changes gradually, so horses have time to adjust to temperature changes. If one opts not to blanket, the horse will grow its coat naturally. If blanketing, one may find changing blankets is needed in response to day/night temperature changes during seasonal transitions. Studies in beef cattle concluded that the lowest comfortable temperature an animal with a full, dry winter coat can stay comfortable at is 18oF. However, this temperature is 59oF if the animal is wet, clipped, or has a summer coat. It is likely that the numbers are similar in horses.
How does one know if a horse should have a blanket? Just because a person is cold doesn’t necessarily mean that a horse is cold. Imagine a horse with snow on its back. Normally, the snow should be accumulating on its back. If the snow melts and the horse’s coat is getting wet, it is losing heat and is at risk for getting too cold. A note of caution here – you don’t want to put a blanket on a wet horse. Wet blankets will keep in the wetness creating an even colder horse, and potentially create a skin fungus if not allowed to dry out properly. In this case, coolers come in handy. Fleece or wool coolers will wick the moisture away from the horse, keeping it warm while it dries. Once the coat is dry, a heavier blanket can be put on.
A horse’s weight should also be taken into account when deciding on blanketing. Overweight horses have an extra layer of fat under their skin that adds to their insulation and helps keep them warm. So if this is the case with a particular horse it might not need blanketing as soon as other horses in the barn. On the other hand, for a horse that is underweight, the extra layer of insulation is not present so they may be one of the first in the barn to need blanketing. Keep this in mind when removing blankets in the spring as well.
If deciding not to blanket, remember, horses evolved without our help; and unlike us, they do already have a natural fur coat. One may even see some frozen whiskers, or ice-balls on fetlocks – as long as the horse isn’t shivering and its coat is dry, it is probably doing well! It is still important to monitor the horse’s well being in the cold, and to help out with some extra warmth if need be. Whether a horse is blanketed or not, it still needs some kind of shelter from the elements (stall or run-in shed). Horses in a shelter conserve up to 20% more body heat than if completely exposed to the elements, and about the same if they can lie down on clean bedding.
Selecting a Blanket
Once blanketing is decided upon, how does one choose from the myriad of choices? What size does one buy? What style is needed (i.e. sheets, turnouts, stable blankets)? What is right for the horse?
Size
Fit is very important for a horse’s blanket. Blankets and sheets that are too big or too small can cause painful sores on the horse’s withers, rubs on its shoulders and general irritation. Measuring a horse is easy. Use a flexible tape measure (one used for sewing is best.) Measure, in inches, from the center of the horse’s chest, straight back along his body to the center of his thigh, just next to the tail. Ponies usually measure in the 60’s, average size horses somewhere in the 70’s and larger warmblood or draft breeds in the 80’s. Use this number to select the size of the blanket. It may be necessary to round to the nearest even number when ordering blankets and some companies only use even numbered sized (i.e. 76, 78, 80, etc.)
Type
Sheets are the lightest, and come in many forms. Light cotton sheets are great for the start of the fall season in dry weather. Sheets also come in tougher material which may be a good choice if the horse has a destructive streak. Sheets also come in waterproof form, and are especially useful in wet areas.
Stable blankets and medium weight turnouts are the next step up. In tack catalogs or the local tack shop, one will see medium weight turnouts in the neighborhood of 200 grams of fill. Stable blankets are typically not waterproof, however, some turnout blankets are water-resistant, and some are fully waterproof. For turnout, a waterproof blanket is recommended. That way a roll in the snow or a sudden snow shower or cold rain won’t put the horse at risk of a chill.
Heavy weight blankets are around 300 grams of fill. Their weight is noticeable when a heavy blanket is placed on the horse, or when it is washed at the end of the year! These are typically used for a fully clipped horse at the peak of winter, or during a drastic cold spell.
How does one know if a horse is too warm? This can be a problem when deciding when to remove blankets in the spring. If a horse breaks a sweat under its blanket, removing it or using a lighter one is warranted. Sweating under blankets is just as undesirable as putting a blanket on a wet horse. To be sure, check the horse a short time after blanketing. If the horse is sweating, a lighter blanket is recommended. On the other hand, if the horse is shivering, increase the warmth level. Remember in the spring, just because it is raining doesn’t necessarily mean horses need to be blanketed! It is best to check the temperature and the wind chill before deciding on blanketing.
Destructive Behavior
If the horse likes to rip blankets off (or the pasture mate does), make sure there isn’t an underlying problem, such as an ill-fitting buckle or strap, which is causing the blanket-ripping behavior. Assuming all is well, one can try anti-chewing applications (that are non-toxic of course) to help stop such behavior.
Finally, don’t just blanket a horse and forget it during the winter. There can be changes going on that the blankets hide (i.e. weight loss/gain, skin fungus or bacterial infections, blanket rubs, etc.). At least once a week, the blanket should be removed for a good grooming and to check for any problems.

Suggested Reading

Cymbaluk, N. 2001. Management and Feeding of Horses in Cold Weather. Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, Ontario, Canada. Online at: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/eng­lish/livestock/horses/facts/info-coldweather-man.htm

Lewis, L.D. 1996. Feeding and Care of the Horse, 2nd Ed. Williams & Wilkins, Media, PA.

Mowrey, R. 1998. Horse Feeding Management: Cold Weather Feeding Practices for Horses. North Carolina Cooperative Extension Services. AG-558-6.

Williams, C.A. 2005. Are you ‘Stressing Out’ your horse? Rutgers Cooperative Research and Extension. FS656.

Source: https://esc.rutgers.edu/fact_sheet/to-blanket-or-not-to-blanket/

Water and Hay: Essentials for the Winter

With the brisk temperatures and frequent fluctuations of our North Carolina winter weather, it is always good to remember how critical these changes can be to our equine companions.  If you’ve been in the horse business long enough, you have probably encountered a horse experiencing colic due to temperature changes.  Keeping horses warm and hydrated in the winter, as well as in good body condition can be a challenge.  Key factors in achieving this are providing shelter from the wind and rain, along with plenty of clean water and good hay.  Here are some things to consider as the winter progresses.

 

Maintaining ample water intake is the most critical part of ensuring the health of your horse during cold weather.  The horse prefers a water temperature of 45-65°F.  Under normal conditions, horses will consume one gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight per day.  An 1100 pound horse will consume 10-12 gallons of water daily.  But, as water temperature decreases, horses will consume less.  An 1100 pound horse may consume as little as 1-3 gallons of water per day when water temperature is 32°F. 

 Low water intake is directly related to the increased incidence of impaction colic.  Water intake can be encouraged by increasing the amount of forage being fed prior to a drop in temperature.  The resulting increase of dry matter encourages the horse to drink more water.  Concentrate mashes can also be fed during the actual cold period when water temperature is below 45°F.  Feeding 2-3 gallons of hot water mixed in a mash with a textured or pelleted concentrate mix will provide additional water intake.  To avoid gas colic, allow for the mash to sit for 15 minutes. This will permit the feed to expand prior to feeding.  If possible, offer 10 gallons of water (at 65°F or warmer) twice daily.  Break and remove ice from water tubs, making certain to provide water that is available free choice. 

 

Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical aspect to winter management of horses.  This is the time of year where hay supplies can get thin, so planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is critical.  When temperatures get below freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only forage option.  Horses, along with other grazing animals, need hay to stay warm.  Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just an increase in hay consumption.  Those that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in hay during cold periods.  For example, a mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet these temperature needs in cold weather.  It’s important to pay close attention to body condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse.  A long hair coat or winter blanket can often cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or “cover” there is over and around them.  If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight, increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful.  Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just for this purpose. 

 

These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get through the brisk winter days that are starting and will be here for awhile. For more information or advice, don’t hesitate to contact your extension agent or veterinarian.

Managing Manure

 Managing horse manure can seem like a burden especially in the winter months. But, that manure is a valuable resource for your farm. You can use it as a supplemental fertilizer for your pastures and hay fields and cut costs on buying commercial fertilizers. The key to being able to use this resource is managing it correctly. 

• Never store manure in a low lying or wet areas because the moisture will cause nutrients to leach out out of the manure and you will be losing valuable resources for your fields. Also, leaching can be harmful for the ground around the manure pile and water downhill or down stream. 
• If possible try to store your manure a good distance away from your barn to reduce fly and pests for your animals.
• It is a good idea to turn your pile or mix it every once in a while to distribute the heat in your pile and turn those fly larvae that are hatching into the heated center and kill them before they become adults. 
• Always take a soil sample on your fields routinely, about every 1-2 years, because most of the time horse manure contains a lot of bedding, sawdust or straw, and those materials take time and nutrients to break down. Some of your soil Nitrogen could be fixed or unavailable to plants while breaking down those stemy and woody materials. Also, adding lime to your manure pile or spreading lime on your fields after soil testing will help break down materials faster because your soil pH will be more stable. 

Scooping manure and mucking stalls is never a fun job, but since it is a necessity when keeping horses why not make the manure work for you in return.  

Virtual Series for Horse Owners

 

Since pasture and hay are the wealth of a horse’s diet, it’s safe to say that forage management is critical to ensure a horse’s nutritional requirements are being met.  Please join us for a three-part virtual horse series, via Zoom, beginning on December 10^th. All three presentations will be held from 12 pm-1 pm.  This series will discuss forage management topics relevant to horse owners but anyone interested is welcomed to attend! Please see the schedule and registration links below.

 December 10^th: Hay selection, testing hay, and estimating hay needs.

January 14^th: Practicing proper soil fertilization to make your pastures more vigorous and productive.

February 11^th:  Management practices and tips for common pasture weeds.

If you are interested in attending just one or all three of the of the presentations, please visit: https://go.ncsu.edu/foragesforhorseowners to register!  If you have any questions related to the series please contact Anthony Growe, Richmond county Livestock agent, at (910) 997-8255.

Hay Storage Tips

Purchasing hay to feed is costly so why not protect that investment?  Proper hay storage does come with a price tag but will save you money in the long run.  In this blog post we will explore the two main hay sizes that are fed to horses and the different storage options.

 

Round Bales

If you are purchasing round bales you have a little more flexibility when it comes to storage options vs. small square bales.  You can store round bales outside, however, you do not want to store them on the ground uncovered if you can avoid it.  Bales stored on the ground can absorb moisture and can have as much as 50% loss. 

Best storage practices outside to minimize waste include:

·         Never store round bales directly on the ground.  Pallets work well to keep bales off the ground for optimum air flow.

·         Storing round bales end to end rather than a pyramid if uncovered.

·         Purchase bales that are tightly wrapped.

·         Choose bales wrapped in net wrap over baling twine.

·         Store bales on well-drained sites and never under trees or in low lying areas.

·         If you can, cover round bales stored outside, tarps work well.

Ideally, you want to store round bales inside.  Storing inside can cut hay loss down to 5% or less which is significant.  Keep in mind, even if you store round bales inside, do not store them directly on the ground.    

 

Small Square Bales

Small square bales are not as forgiving as large round bales mainly due to their size.  You definitely do not want to store them outside uncovered.  If you have to store them outside make sure they are placed on pallets and tarped to keep the weather out. 

Best storage practices for small square bales:

·        Never store bales directly on the ground, even inside.  Any moisture that comes in can be absorb by the bale.  Pallets works well to keep the bales off of the ground and to allow air flow.

·        Make sure to examine the shelter for roof leaks and rodents/wildlife activity.  Deter rodents/wildlife as much as possible by plugging holes, keeping the area clean, and using traps/baits if necessary.  Some wildlife can cause diseases such as EPM if horses come in contact with their droppings.

·         Purchase bales that are tightly wrapped.

·        If you are using a pole shed or three-sided shelter be certain that the weather cannot get to your hay and if it can, you may want to tarp the hay as well.

 

The main concern with storing any hay is keeping the moisture out.  You have to be careful though not to encourage moisture when storing inside.  Your hay storage area needs to have good ventilation for air flow. 

 For additional information check out the following websites: https://extension.umn.edu/horse-nutrition/selecting-and-storing-horse-hay and https://site.extension.uga.edu/forageteam/2019/09/hay-storage-options/

Horse Deworming

What is on your fall and winter preparation list for your horse? Stockpiling hay? Establishing winter forages in your pastures? Getting blankets ready? What about deworming? Just because the temperature starts dropping, does not mean the parasites will drop off as well. 

With any deworming treatment, a fecal count needs to be done first to determine parasite load and type of parasite. A fecal count is an estimate of the number of parasite eggs in a horse. Once we know the count and the type of parasite, we can treat it with the most effective dewormer to insure we are reducing the parasite load. The important deworming season in North Carolina is September – April. During the summer months of May – August, parasite egg numbers in pastures are much lower due to the hot summer temperatures and deworming is less of a priority. 

Horses shed eggs differently, for example yearlings tend to shed small strongyles at higher amounts than adult horses.  It’s important to know how heavy of a shedder your horse is. A low shedder fecal count will be <200 EPG (eggs per gram of manure). Moderate shedder fecal counts will be 200-500 EPG, and high shedder fecal counts will be <500 EPG. 

Before starting any deworming regiment, consulting with your vet is important. They will recommend the best treatment course that will minimize parasite loads and avoid building a resistance to dewormers. 

Low shedders (<200 EPG) can be dewormed twice a year, in the spring and fall seasons. In the spring Ivermectin (Equell®, Zimectrin®, Rotectin®, IverCare®), Moxidectin (Quest®) can be used. In the fall Ivermectin w/Praziquantel (Equimax®, Zimectrin Gold®) or Moxidectin with Praziquantel (Quest Plus®) are dewormers that can be administered. 

Moderate shedders (200-500 EPG) may need to be dewormed frequently throughout the year. A spring deworming can be done using Ivermectin (Equell®, Zimectrin®, Rotectin®, IverCare, etc), moxidectin (Quest®) or double-dose Fenbendazole for 5 days (Panacur® PowerPak). In late summer, Pyrantel Pamoate (Strongid paste®, TapeCare Plus®, etc), fenbendazole (Panacur®, Safe-Guard®) can be given. In early winter, Ivermectin w/ Praziquantel (Equimax®, Zimectrin Gold®) or Moxidectin with Praziquantel (Quest Plus®) can be administered. 

High shedders (>500 EPG) may need to be dewormed with every season change. In spring again Ivermectin (Equell®, Zimectrin®, Rotectin®, IverCare®), Moxidectin (Quest®) or double-dose of fenbendazole for 5 days (Panacur® PowerPak) can be given. During the summer Pyrantel Pamoate (Strongid paste®, TapeCare Plus®), Fenbendazole (Panacur, SafeGuard®) or Oxibendazole (Anthelcide®) can be used. In fall Ivermectin w/ Praziquantel (Equimax®, Zimectrin Gold®) or Moxidectin with Praziquantel (Quest Plus®) will be effective. And during the winter season Pyrantel Pamoate (Strongid paste®, TapeCare Plus®), Fenbendazole (Panacur®, SafeGuard®) or Oxibendazole (Anthelcide®) can be administered. 

When it comes to pregnant mares and foals that are two months old, consulting with your vet is important for proper care so they can help determine the best treatment plan. 

There are other ways to lower parasite loads in horses in combination with deworming. One being rotational grazing. Rotating pastures is not only good for forage regrowth but parasite eggs that are shed in the manure are not ingested as quickly by a host and die out. Cross grazing pastures with ruminants such as cows, goats, and sheep is also effective. Parasites that are common in equine are not found in ruminants and vice-versa. In the summer months spreading or dragging manure is beneficial both for parasite reduction and spreading of nutrients found in manure over the pasture. This also keeps nutrients buildup down in high manure concentrated areas. In winter months the removal of manure is also helpful in decreasing parasite numbers. Doing these things with a parasite control program approved by your vet can keep your horse healthy all year long. 

The table below is a chart of active ingredients and the parasites they target. 

The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by North Carolina State University nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. 

 

 

 

Nitrate Toxicity

 This blog has covered hay testing and analysis in past posts, but this week I wanted to talk specifically about nitrate toxicity. In my county, and surrounding counties, nitrates have been an issue for the past month. We've had hay samples come back high that normally are not, these growers are used to having safe hay and now must figure out what to do with this hay. Cattle and horses are susceptible to nitrate poisoning and if too high, like in some cases this year, animals will actually die. Ruminants are more susceptible to this problem, due to the way their stomachs work, but if severe enough, horses can suffer as well. 

Testing nitrates is a free test from the NCDA & CS lab in Raleigh, so if nothing else, you definitely should test your hay for nitrates. Even if it is not a field where animal waste is applied, fertilizer is applied a some point, the plant goes through drought or stress, so it's important to know what your hay contains. Some nitrate levels are safe for all animals, some should not be fed to pregnant animals, and some levels are too high for any stage of animals to consume. Horses can consume higher levels than those listed and not be affected, make sure you speak to your extension agent or veterinarian on feeding hay that may be considered "high" in nitrates!

Those levels can be seen here:

https://www.noble.org/news/publications/ag-news-and-views/2015/may/feeding-nitrate-containing-forage-requires-caution/ 

In terms of symptoms, nitrate toxicity can present itself by diarrhea, colic, weakness, muscle tremors, abnormal gait, blue or brown discoloration of the gums, and in extreme cases, death. Blood in affected animals may be a more chocolate brown than deep red color, due to the activity of nitrates/nitrites on hemoglobin. 

Be cautious of what you feed your horses, and when in doubt--test it!