Managing Flies Around Horses During Peak Fly Season

 Few things are worse than enjoying your trail ride or evening schooling only to be hounded by flies.  Fly management can be a tricky business. It can seem simple at first but often needs a multi-pronged approach. It is important to use a combination of methods to reduce fly levels. 

Identification 

The first action to take when trying to prevent any problematic species is identification.  The most effective use of your prevention methods is to know what you are up against.  Different types flies have different biology that can mean different life cycles, food preferences and identifying flies can be difficult. Using online resources and your local Extension office can help you with this task.  You can bring in samples of the insects to most Extension offices where the livestock or horticulture agents can help identify it. Stable flies and house flies are the most common flies found  around horses.  Once you have identified the culprits you can start your prevention methods. The best time to start fly prevention is before the flies are out for the season.  Early prevention reduces the overall number of flies you will have to deal with through out the season.  Peak fly season is between July and August. 

Management

Managing things like manure, mud, hay, straw, water and feed can all decrease shelter and food sources for the flies. Picking up manure in your paddocks and pastures can be a major pain.  It is time consuming, back breaking work. However these are where you will find most of your stable flies. It is important to pick or drag the manure in the fields weekly.  Mud, wet hay and straw are the perfect homes for flies.  When feeding we need ot be mindful of how of much hay waste we leave out and let get wet. Standing water in the exposed to the sun can be breeding grounds for flies and mosquitos.  Water troughs that are in the open are the perfect opportunity for these insects. Increasing your management of manure, mud, hay, straw water and feed you will decrease the flies around your horses. 

Physical and Chemical

Fly spray and fly sheets are helpful tools when managing for flies as a pest for your horse.  Fly spray is a chemical solution to our fly problems. It is a convenient short term solution for when we are working or riding horses.  Fly sprays do have an negative effect on pollinators that are needed for crops and grasses to grow.  Fly sheets and mask are a common physical barrier to prevent flies from landing horses.  These tools are helpful when the horses are in their stalls or pastures but cannot be used while riding and working the horses.  Another negative effect of the fly sheets is that they can increase the changes of heat related issues acting as a blanket trapping heat. 

Triple Threat

Using a combination of of the methods above is the most effective way to deal with flies in pastures and around barns during the summer months.  Try a combination of of the methods this July and upcoming August during peak fly season.

Equine Disease Communication Center

The Equine Disease Communication Center (EDCC) notifies the horse industry about the threat of infectious diseases in North America. This communication system is an industry-driven intiative designed to report infectious and vector-borne disease cases that are received from a state veterinarian, state animal health officialm or attending veterinarian and are confirmed and formed into comprehensive alerts. Real-time information on infectious disease alerts, quarantines, and regulations are essential to helping horse owners keep their animals safe and healthy and can help determine if you should travel to a certain area. Alerts are posted on the EDCC Outbreak Alerts page, soilcial media, and are sent out to subscribers by email. Check out the EDCC website for more information and to get signed up for the alerts! 

https://www.equinediseasecc.org/

Do you know what you're feeding your horses this winter?

North Carolina, as well as many other parts of the country, have been experiencing unseasonably high temperatures and drought this spring/summer.  While this may not seem like an issue now, hay producers are concerned that they will not be able to put up as many horse quality bales this year as they have in the past.  

You may have noticed that the price of hay (like everything else) has been creeping up.  Increased cost of fuel and fertilizer have caused these price increases.  Add in drought conditions and the lack of supply could drive the price even higher this fall.  

Hay varieties that do well in the heat, such as Bermuda grass and alfalfa will be more plentiful, but are not usually recommended for maintenance consumption by horses.  Grass hays such as orchard grass and timothy that are preferred by horse owners need cooler temperatures and have suffered the most during this drought.    

To avoid the stress of searching for quality hay this winter, start buying and storing hay now if you have enough dry storage.  Round bales can be more cost effective if you have the storage space and feeding capabilities.  

Remember that not all hay is created equally.  If you're buying from a new producer, or if you're concerned about the nutritional content of hay you've been buying for years, consider having your hay tested.  Contact your local Extension Office to ask about this service.  Quality is always more important than quantity.  Testing can make sure your hay is worth the price you're paying.  This article by University of Minnesota Extension can help interpret hay analysis results.    

Another tip to save money on hay is to pick it up directly.  Feed store and delivered hay can be more expensive due to additional fees.  Consider picking up your hay directly from the producer.  This can give you the option to negotiate a lower price.  If you are a smaller farm, consider splitting a trailer load with a neighbor.  

We all want to be sure our horses are eating the best, most nutritious forages possible, but we also want to have enough money in our budget to feed ourselves.  Planning now could save you a lot of money, time, and stress this fall.  

How to Help Your Horse Avoid Heat Stress

 

The dog days of summer are upon us and along with them often comes very high heat indexes. Adjusting to the high heat can be a challenge for a few horses, but there are several things we, as horse owners, can employ to help our equine friends avoid heat stress.

Always provide ample amounts of fresh, clean water, which allows horses to adjust their water consumption as needed to replace fluids lost by sweat. To encourage horses to drink more, provide salt blocks or supplement salt to increase thirst. If horses are exercising regularly and sweating throughout the summer, owners can supplement their diets with electrolytes. You can either add them to feed or water. An isotonic salt solution can be made by adding 1 oz (~ 2 Tbsp) of salt per gallon of fresh water. However, if you opt for the latter, be sure to provide an additional fresh water source in case the horse prefers plain water.

The increased temperatures and humidity that we often see during the summer months in the Southeast can slow down or halt sweat evaporation, making it more difficult for horses to cool off. Recent research shows that a constant flow of cold water hosing can be very beneficial in cooling the core body temperature of horses within minutes.

Exercise can result in a rapid rise in core body heat. So, even when a horse has adjusted to increased ambient temperatures or humidity at rest, be sure to monitor exercise closely and try to plan rides during the coolest part of the day.

Offer horses frequent drinks of water during work in hot weather. Allowing them to drink during work helps maintain water balance and relieves the urge to drink a lot of water after exercise.

Another way to prevent heat stress is to ensure that barns, paddocks, and stalls are properly ventilated. Barn doors and windows can be kept open, when safe, to allow airflow, fans can also be installed to increase air circulation around horses in stalls or walk in shed rows.

Its also important to be on the lookout for signs of heat stress, which can include the following:

·         Weak or lethargic

·         Sweating profusely or not at all

·         Labored breathing

·         High respiratory rate that does not return to normal

·         High heart rate that does not return to normal

·         High rectal temperature

If you suspect heat stress, offering small amounts of water regularly and moving the horse to a shaded, well-ventilated area is often beneficial. If necessary, hose the horse with water, starting at the feet and working upward. If the horse’s temperature stays above 106°F for an extended period of time, contact a veterinarian immediately.

Snake Identification

Summer is quickly approaching!  That means warm weather, sunny days, and fun trail rides.  But with summer also comes the snakes.  Snakes can startle horses and be a threat to the safety of riders and their horses if encounters are not handled properly.  Before you’re quick to pick up a shovel (or run away in fear), here are some tips and information to help you better handle an encounter with a snake.  Hopefully, this article will help dispel some common misconceptions about snakes and help people be more tolerant of them, and respect their role in North Carolina's ecosystems.  

What Kind of Snakes are in NC?

Did you know that NC is home to 38 species of snakes?  Snakes are important ecological players in North Carolina, serving as both predators and prey to help maintain our ecosystems.  Of these 38 species, only 6 are considered venomous snakes.  Some of North Carolina’s nonvenomous snakes include the Black Racer, Corn Snake, Eastern Kingsnake, Banded Water Snake, and Green Snake.  Venomous snakes are sometimes referred to as poisonous snakes.  Their venom can actually be used for medicinal purposes.  The 6 venomous snakes native to NC are the Eastern Coral Snake, Copperhead, Cottonmouth, Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake, Timber Rattlesnake, and the Pigmy Rattlesnake.  

What Should I Do When I Encounter a Snake?

Whether you’re a pro snake handler or not a fan of snakes at all, it’s important to remain calm when encountering a snake.  Their reaction is often based on your reaction.  Snakes rely on sight, hearing, and smell to detect prey and avoid predation or danger.  Snakes sense vibrations stemming from sounds and movements through their bodies. Some pit vipers have special organs that allow them to sense heat signatures.  Contrary to some beliefs, snakes only bite when they feel threatened or sometimes when accidently stepped on.  Snakes are attracted to covered areas such as pots, rocks, piles of wood, and other debris.  If you don’t want snakes around, it’s important to minimize the presence of these structures. 

If you encounter a snake, it’s important to properly identify the species in order to assess the risk involved.  If you can avoid disrupting the snake, it is best to leave it alone where it is at.  However, if a snake finds its way in a building or restricted path, then removal may be necessary.  Non-venomous snakes can often be swept away or removed by hand (although removal by hand does come with risk of being bitten).  You should never try to move a venomous snake by hand.  If you are uncertain whether the species is venomous or not, it is best to leave the snake alone or contact a wildlife professional if the snake does not leave.  

How Do I Know if it’s Venomous or Not?

There are several identifiable features that help us distinguish between a venomous and nonvenomous snake.  If you are not familiar with snakes, you should be aware that scale patterns among certain species look similar and could lead to incorrect identification.  Often, venomous snakes will have elliptical shaped pupils compared to rounded pupils of nonvenomous snakes.  Venomous snakes in the family Viperidae also have pits located below their nostrils and triangular shaped heads.  This characteristic can be misleading sometimes because some nonvenomous snakes can make their heads appear wider and triangular shaped.  The Eastern Coral Snake is the only NC native venomous snake in the Elapidae family.  The best way to identify this snake is by its scale coloring, which consists of red, yellow, and black bands.  The thick red and black bands are separated by narrow yellow bands.  A common saying for identifying the coral snake is “Red touches black, you’re ok Jack; Red touches yellow, you’re a dead fellow!”

If possible, it is always best to leave a snake alone, whether venomous or not!  Many venomous snakes in NC are endangered or a species of special concern.  For more information, you can visit Snakes which includes a complete list and pictures of snake species in North Carolina.  

Pictures from the Snakes publication listed above.  A comparison of a venomous and harmless snake. Top: copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix), venomous. Bottom: eastern milk snake (Lampropeltis triangulum), nonvenomous (harmless). Photos by Daniel Guinto.

Written by Libby Blosser, Bladen County Summer Intern

High Quality Alfalfa (Also) Comes From North Carolina

Is alfalfa a hay you prefer and have to purchase out of state?  This article, written, by Dr. Miguel Castillo, NCSU Extension Forage Specialist, may be of great interest to you!    Other articles, fact sheets and guides can also be found from our NC State Extension Forage Webpage.  

 

 https://forages.ces.ncsu.edu/2022/05/high-quality-alfalfa-also-comes-from-north-carolina/

 

Establishing a Baseline - the Best in Preventative Medicine

My first horse was an ancient (28 year old), retired mare I inherited from my riding instructor when she moved barns.  She was my favorite horse, and I was equal parts delighted I'd get to see her everyday and nervous I wouldn't be able to properly take care of her.  The first couple of days (weeks, months, lifetime), I pestered my Dad with questions about anything and everything.

"Dad, her ears are drooping. Is that normal?" - She was just relaxed.

"Dad, she sneezed/coughed.  Is she okay?" - That's what happens when they're eating hay and dust gets in their nose.  While a little dust is fine, too much can cause respiratory problems, such as HEAVES.

"Hey Dad! How can I tell if she's colicing?  I think she's colicing right now!" - She wasn't. She was scratching an itch.  She never colic a day in her life and was offended I'd even entertain the thought.  Never-the-less, knowing the signs and how to PREVENT COLIC is important.

"Dad, what are these weird bumps?  Does she have cancer?" - They were bug bites.  Use FLY PREVENTION.

"Dad, her poop is weird. It's green! That is not normal! Can you come look at it?" - That's what happens when horses eat a lot of fresh forages.  However, ANALYZING YOUR HORSE'S MANURE can be a great health indicator.

My poor, patient Dad answered every question, and eventually I was able to establish a baseline of what is normal and abnormal.  While it is funny (and a little embarrassing) to look back on this time, never-the-less, establishing a "normal", or baseline, is an important step when becoming a horse owner.  It not only helps you detect signs of disease early, but also helps your vet form a diagnosis in critical or emergency situations.  

Arizona Cooperative Extension has a great resource any savvy horse owner can use to establish a baseline on not only behavior and eating patterns, but also vital signs, gum color, and more (link below).

Knowing What is Normal for Your Horse