The Importance of Foal Watch

 For breeders aiming for a January foaling date, your wait is almost over!  However, after eleven long months, it's important to remain vigilant as the finish line approaches.  Before becoming an Extension agent, I worked as a vet tech for an equine vet in Texas.  One of the worst calls we answered while I was working there was a weekend emergency call from a non-client.  The horse owners had purchased a pregnant mare a few months prior but had not established a relationship with any of the vets in the area.  The mare had gone into labor overnight and due to the large size of the foal and other presentation issues, the foal did not survive.  In order to save the mare, the vet and I had to remove the deceased foal from the exhausted mare, whose labor had stalled hours prior.  The worst part about the situation was knowing that if the owners had been on foal watch and conducted night checks, there was a strong possibility we could have saved both mare and foal.  

If you are a new breeder, I encourage you to take foal watch seriously, and if you are an experienced breeder, remember to never get complacent.  Horses don't read text books, so even if you think you've calculated your foaling date perfectly, there can be surprises.  While 330 days (11 months) is the average gestation length, the range can be anywhere from 320-380 days.  With such a wide range, it's important to be observant throughout the mare's pregnancy so that you can spot the signs of impending labor. 

Knowing your mares normal behavior and appearance is the first step.  If you know her baseline, you can monitor changes such as a "drop" in her belly, swelling and lengthening of the vulva, loss of appetite, agitation, etc.  These can all be signs that labor is about to begin.  Keeping a notebook with observations can be a good way to document changes, especially if more than one person is monitoring the mare. 

Most mares will "bag up" three to five weeks before foaling.  Her udder is filling with milk and the teats will become enlarged.  The closer she gets to delivery, you may see white discharge or "waxing" on the end of the teats.  There are products available that can be used to test the mares colostrum (first milk) to measure the amount of calcium present.  Calcium increases right before foaling.  While these products can be helpful aids, nothing is more valuable than consist monitoring.  

Photo: www.ranvet.com: Note "bagging up" and "waxing"

When to start foal watch and how often depends on your experience in assessing pregnancy signs, whether the mare is a maiden or an experienced broodmare, and the health status of the mare.  On my family's breeding operation, we started doing night checks for an average pregnancy a month prior to foaling on a three hour schedule. 9PM, Midnight, and 3AM.  If we saw any signs of labor at those three hour checks, we switched to hourly checks.  While this may seem exhausting, remember that it only takes 30 minutes of stalled labor to create a potentially life threatening situation for mare and foal.  There are a number of stall cameras on the market that can make night checks as easy as checking your phone.  Consider sharing the load with family members or barn staff to avoid foaling season fatigue.  

Whatever your method, whether it's a stall cam, trudging out to the barn in your pajamas, or putting a cot in the tack room, make sure you're keeping a close eye on your mare and keep the vet's phone number on speed dial.  It's always better to establish a relationship with your vet before you make the emergency call.  If you need help locating an equine vet in your area, contact your local Extension Office.  

Winter Horse Care Tips

 

With the arrival of cooler weather, it’s time to think about making winter time modifications to our horses diets, management of potential mud, shelter from the elements and possibly the age old question of “Do you blanket your horse or not?”.

Feed Modifications

The average horse needs to consume in the range of 2 to 3% of their body weight per day to maintain an ideal body condition. The bulk of the horse’s diet should consist of forage (either grass and/or hay). A number of horse operations are limited in pasture grasses during the winter months, so it is not uncommon for the bulk of the forage to be met with grass hay. An average 1100 lb horse consuming 2% of their body weight in hay means that they should consume a minimum of 22 lb of hay per day. However, during extreme cold spells that same horse might need closer to 30 lb of hay per day to stay warm.

How do horses stay warm?

Horses are warm blooded animals and therefore try to keep their core temperature as close to a constant 101 ˚F as possible. To keep their temperature constant the horse will use various methods to thermoregulate and maintain this constant internal temperature no matter the surrounding environment. In the winter this may be through one of the following:

·       Vasoconstriction which is when the capillaries under the skin contract to reduce the amount of heat lost.

·       Insulation where the horse will use fat stores to generate energy for warmth.

·       Shivering where rapid contraction of core muscles produces heat.

·      Consume ample amount of forages, which are fermented in the hindgut, which results in energy being lost as heat. This heat helps your horse to stay warm.

Water Considerations

Its not uncommon during the cooler months for horses to reduce their water intake. Add to that, increased hay consumption can easily cause impaction if your horse isn’t drinking enough. Thus, it is wise to check your horse’s water source and monitor intake daily. Horses prefer to drink water that is slightly warm in the

winter and their water consumption typically increases if water is kept ice free. Removal of any ice or if at all possible, is ideal, or add a water heater to your tank or bucket to raise the water temperature.

Mud Management

There is likely not a horse farm in North Carolina that does not have to deal with mud from time to time during the winter months. It is common for mud to develop around feeders, waterers, and gates, but so long as the horse does not have to stand in it for any length of time is ideal.

You might consider creating a sacrifice area or dry lot where you feed and water your animals to help prevent mud and erosion issues. During wet winters, having a dry lot can help prevent the destruction of your pastures. While the idea sounds simple, it does require a bit of planning to mitigate the buildup of mud and/or erosion. You need to make sure the area can support the number of horses you want to put in it and you want it to be relatively close to the barn — you will probably be moving horses in and out in some colder weather, and you’ll be feeding a lot of hay. Careful consideration should also be given to footing around heavy use areas like feeders, waterers and gates. There are several Cooperative Extension resources online on how best to construct sacrifice areas/dry lots.

Shelter

Horses need shelter from the elements. Shelter comes in a variety of forms and sizes and the type you use largely depends on your facilities and finances. Trees can act as a natural wind barrier and can also provide some protection from inclement weather. A three-sided shelter provides the best protection from winter precipitation for pastured horses. It is also important to ensure that your shelter offers adequate space for the number of animals you have; otherwise, more than one appropriate shelter should be provided to allow for their natural behavior and accommodates their natural hierarchy so that even the lowest horse in the pecking order can benefit from the shelter.

Should I blanket my horse?

A common question that many horse owners ask but is not always a cut and dry conclusion. Here are some factors which may affect this decision.

Coat -- Coat will play a big factor in the horse’s ability to retain heat, and whether a horse has a thick coat, hasn’t grown one yet or has been clipped should be considered before deciding on a blanket. Those that are clipped are going to need more help than those that have a thick coat.

Age -- Generally older and younger horses will not cope with colder temperatures as well as the average adult horse. Typically, younger horses are smaller and have less body fat and older horses may be less efficient at controlling their body temperature or may have health problems and/or have less overall body fat.

Weather -- The worst conditions for any horse, in terms of heat regulation, would be low air temperatures combined with strong winds and wet precipitation, which is quite common during North Carolina winters.

Shelter -- Horses that don’t have access to manmade shelter will often benefit from an appropriate turnout blanket during inclement weather.

Take Home Message

Feeding a diet high in forages, monitoring water intake, managing for mud, and providing appropriate shelter or blanketing against the elements are all great ways to ensure your horses’ health and wellbeing during the long winter months.

Water and Hay: Essentials for the Winter

 

With the brisk temperatures we are beginning to have and frequent fluctuations of our North Carolina winter weather, it is always good to remember how critical these changes can be to our equine companions.  If you’ve been in the horse business long enough, you have probably encountered a horse experiencing colic due to temperature changes.  Keeping horses warm and hydrated in the winter, as well as in good body condition can be a challenge.  Key factors in achieving this are providing shelter from the wind and rain, along with plenty of clean water and good hay.  Here are some things to consider as the winter progresses.

 

Maintaining ample water intake is the most critical part of ensuring the health of your horse during cold weather.  The horse prefers a water temperature of 45-65°F.  Under normal conditions, horses will consume one gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight per day.  An 1100 pound horse will consume 10-12 gallons of water daily.  But, as water temperature decreases, horses will consume less.  An 1100 pound horse may consume as little as 1-3 gallons of water per day when water temperature is 32°F. 

 Low water intake is directly related to the increased incidence of impaction colic.  Water intake can be encouraged by increasing the amount of forage being fed prior to a drop in temperature.  The resulting increase of dry matter encourages the horse to drink more water.  Concentrate mashes can also be fed during the actual cold period when water temperature is below 45°F.  Feeding 2-3 gallons of hot water mixed in a mash with a textured or pelleted concentrate mix will provide additional water intake.  To avoid gas colic, allow for the mash to sit for 15 minutes. This will permit the feed to expand prior to feeding.  If possible, offer 10 gallons of water (at 65°F or warmer) twice daily.  Break and remove ice from water tubs, making certain to provide water that is available free choice. 

 

Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical aspect to winter management of horses.  This is the time of year where hay supplies can get thin, so planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is critical.  When temperatures get below freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only forage option.  Horses, along with other grazing animals, need hay to stay warm.  Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just an increase in hay consumption.  Those that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in hay during cold periods.  For example, a mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet these temperature needs in cold weather.  It’s important to pay close attention to body condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse.  A long hair coat or winter blanket can often cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or “cover” there is over and around them.  If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight, increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful.  Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just for this purpose. 

 

These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get through the brisk winter days that are starting and will be here for awhile. For more information and advice, don’t hesitate to contact your veterinarian and/or extension agent. 

 

 

 

Thinking ahead for Breeding and Foaling Season

It is never too early to think and plan ahead, especially when a foal is on the line. Horses are normally bred during the months of May - August and foal during the following spring of the year. Breeding mares are a serious investment of money and time and being prepared for a successful foaling can help ensure safe delivery. This article linked below gives tips to care for the mare during the breeding and foaling season. 

https://extension.umn.edu/horse-health/caring-your-mare-during-breeding-and-foaling

Got Bermudagrass Pastures? Need Spring Forage?

Two weeks ago, most of North Carolina experienced enough cool weather for our warm season pastures to go into dormancy.  This means pastures with perennial grasses like Bermudagrass or Bahiagrass will produce little to no forage until late April or May so it’s time to pull out the hay rings, hay huts, corner feeders!   Horse owners who have the luxury to stack hay to the rafters of their barn will probably have enough to get through winter but those who cannot store large amounts could be hard-pressed to find a decent supply come February.  Some hay producers scaled back on their fertility due to the ballooning cost of fertilizer.  Less fertilizer means lower overall hay yield so there is potential for a limited supply.  The best way to curb our reliance on hay, is to consider overseeding our pastures with winter annuals.  These are forage species that are planted in the fall (ideally September through October) to help compensate for the winter/spring slump that we experience with Bermuda and Bahiagrass pastures.  Winter annuals are a one-shot deal which means come May and June they mature and die.  When planning a winter annual overseed, there are a few things to take into consideration before pulling the trigger.  

Species Selection:

There are several types of forage species on the market so it’s good select the ones that fit both the horse and horse owner’s needs.  Make sure the species you select is frost/cold tolerant.  Grasses such as ryegrass, cereal rye, triticale, and winter oats are some of the most commonly winter annual grasses utilized for horse pastures.   

Site preparation:

Ideally, we recommend soil sampling your pastures before planting any type of forage.  The reports from the soil analysis give us a fertilizer and liming recommendation to bring essential nutrients and soil pH up to acceptable levels.  Considering we are on the later end of the planting window for winter annuals and soil testing is a 2-3 week turn around, I would recommend using a previous report if there was one taken within the last three years and work with your County Extension Agent to come up with a fertility plan “prescription”.  A winter overseed will need some form of starter fertilizer in the fall and then more in early spring as growth increases with warmer temperatures.  Splitting fertilizer applications allows the forage to utilize nutrients more efficiently which leads to thick, lush stands for your horse to graze.  Alternative fertilizers such as poultry litter, and manure are great sources of nutrients and are inexpensive compared to our commercial fertilizers.  The drawback with manures is they are harder to handle and apply without proper equipment.  

Note: Some winter annuals such as annual ryegrass can compete with bermudagrass during green-up in April and May so it is recommended that you devote only a portion of your pastures to a winter annual overseed.

Establishment:

To establish any winter annual forage in warm season pastures, we need to get any excess bermudagrass or bahiagrass growth out of the way.  The best way to do this is through mowing or grazing down grass down to two inches.  Again, since time is of the essence, a mower is going to be quicker than a grazing animal.  After pastures are clipped/grazed down, it’s time to plant your seed. 

There are generally two methods for planting.  First is using a no-till grain drill.  Although this is the best method to overseed your pasture, no-till drills require some horsepower and must be pulled by a tractor.  Several County Soil and Water District offices rent no-till drills for a reasonable fee. If you do not have access to a large tractor or no-till drill, the next option is broadcasting with a spreader followed by dragging with a chain harrow or piece of chain-link fence with weights.  This will help work the seed closer to the soil and increase germination.  For cereal rye, oats, or triticale the recommended seeding rate is 100-120 pounds per acre and for annual ryegrass you should plant 20-30 pounds per acre.  If you are broadcasting, we recommend planting the high rate to increase your chances of establishing a good stand.  If mixing two or more species, reduce the seeding rate of each by 50 percent.  For example, if you want to plant oats and rye together, plant 50-60 pounds of each.

Grazing Management:

Depending on weather conditions, winter annual overseeded in pastures can be slow to establish. Generally, rye, oats and triticale are not ready to graze until February. Ryegrass develops much slower and is usually not ready to graze until mid-March. Start grazing when plants reach 6 to 8 inches and stop grazing before plants reach 3 inches to keep from damaging stands! Winter annuals benefit from rotational grazing systems. Dividing pastures into smaller paddocks and rotationally grazing allows your forage to rest and recover before the animal returns.  This increases forage utilization and lowers the chances of overgrazing.  With adequate fertility and moisture, these winter annuals can produce 2-3 tons of dry matter per acre.   

Overseeding bermudagrass pastures with winter annuals can help compensate for the winter slump in forage production and provide your animal with nutritious feed in the spring.  If you are planning to overseed your pastures for spring grazing, the window is closing quickly!  If you have any questions about pasture management please contact your local Extension office. 

Teff Hay for Horses

 Teff is a warm-season annual grass originally developed and grown in Ethiopia as a grain. Although it’s been suggested to have lower palatability than some other more common grasses, in recent years it has become popular among horse owners in the U.S. looking to reduce the amount of sugar in their horses’ diets.

There is a bit of research looking at the use of teff hay in diets where low sugar, low starch forages are warranted or required and forage intake restrictions are recommended.

Staniar et al 2010: These authors report non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) contents for teff of 5.4% in the ‘boot’ stage and 8.4% in the ‘late heading stage’ of plant maturity. Both really low NSC levels and well below the 10 – 12% threshold considered safe for laminitic/ID/EMS/PPID horses. Variation in NSC levels between samples was also minimal.

Horses in this study ate 1.5% to 1.8% of their bodyweight in teff hay, with the lower intakes being on the more mature hay. Again, this is a good thing as horses on restricted diets are unlikely to eat this hay as fast as more palatable hays like alfalfa, so they should eat for longer periods of time for lower calorie intake.

McCown et al 2012: Reported that when fed to horses unaccustomed to teff and given a choice of either teff and alfalfa or teff and timothy, their intake of teff is lower than their intake of alfalfa (no surprise there) and timothy. BUT, when given access to only teff, intake was about the same as timothy hay. So they don’t relish teff hay, but they are also less likely to overeat it if they are overweight to begin with.

Askins et al 2017: These authors report that horses given free access to teff hay consumed 1.5% of their bodyweight per day which equated to 86% of maintenance calorie requirements. So the finding of lower intake on teff continues.

This study also reports that resting glucose and insulin levels did not change over 10 days while the horses were fed teff. To keep this in context however, ryegrass hay (which can be higher in NSCs) was fed as the control hay in this study and glucose and insulin levels also remained the same on this hay. Unfortunately the NSC content of the hays was not reported.

DeBoer et al 2017: In another recent study, these authors report that cool season perennial grasses had a significantly higher NSC content than teff pasture in summer and fall/autumn, however actual NSC content was not reported.

This research also looked at differences in plasma glucose levels in horses grazing either alfalfa, cool season grasses or teff and found that differences were minimal. However, we know that insulin resistant horses can maintain normal glucose levels, they just need a lot more insulin to achieve this.

DeBoer et al 2018: Authors report that horses grazing teff had significantly lower peak insulin levels when compared to horses grazing cool season grasses in fall/autumn… despite NSC levels not being significantly different between the grasses (the cool season grasses had numerically higher NSC values but when variation was taken into account they were not significantly different). It is worth noting here however that teff was not recorded with an NSC above 10% at any time point where the cool season grasses did reach 12.6% NSC in summer.

Overall, from the research available, teff appears to be suitable for horses who need either a calorie restricted and/or NSC restricted diet. However, if you are going to use teff hay for a metabolically challenged horse, it is still wise to test it to confirm NSC levels.

Adapted from an article by Nerida McGilchrist.

Are Fall Booster Shots Right for Your Horse?

 We've had a few cool nights here in the Carolinas and it finally feels like fall has arrived!  You may be thinking longingly of the rides you'll have without dripping sweat.  Maybe you even have a few fall trips planned?  Calling your veterinarian to schedule vaccinations is probably at the bottom of your list...those shots are only due in the spring right?  

Despite the cooler temperatures, those pesky disease carrying mosquitos we all despise will linger sometimes as late as November.  Mosquitos are known to transmit WEE/EEE (Western/Eastern Equine Encephalitis) and WNV (West Nile Virus).  You probably vaccinated against these illnesses in the spring, but over time, vaccines can lose some of their efficacy, depending on the health & condition of your horse and their environment.  Your veterinarian can tell you if a booster is best for your horse.  

In addition to insect borne disease, there are a number of respiratory infections that plague horses in the fall and winter months.  Two common examples that can be vaccinated against are herpes virus complex (including rhinopneumonitis "rhino") and equine influenza.  Not every horse needs to be vaccinated against these infections, but horses at higher risk for exposure may benefit from a dose of added protection.  Horses you plan to show or travel with this fall or horses stabled at a barn with lots of horses coming and going from other places are considered at higher risk.  Your veterinarian will be able to tell you if your horse falls into this category.  

The American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) has recommendations for vaccine schedules for horses in various levels of work. Having a relationship with a local veterinarian that can help you create a vaccine schedule that fits your horse is the key to successful prevention of disease.  

If your horse is a candidate, talk with your veterinarian and consider fall vaccinations.  You don't want to miss a minute of the best rides of the season!