New Year’s Resolutions for Your Pastures

Amanda Hatcher, NCCES-Duplin County, Livestock Agent

At the beginning of a new year, we often resolve to make self-improvements, to change our lives for the better. What about the improvement of our pastures?

There are a number of common reasons why pastures don’t improve. Many of them involve time, money, attention, and education. We’re not sure the best course of action so instead of doing something not so well, we resolve to do nothing. Let’s talk about some resolutions for pastures and how to tackle at least one of these for 2012.

Resolution #1: I will not allow my horses to over-graze their pastures.

Why do we allow the grass in our pastures to get so miniscule that we need a magnifying lens to see the blades? A big reason: over-stocking. Horses eat; grass grows very slowly. The general recommendation on pasture space for horses in southeastern North Carolina is two acres per horse. Anything less and the horses will need more supplemental feed, anything more and we’ll probably have to cut hay.

Another reason for over-grazing is we don’t have the ideal means to rotate the horses. Putting up fencing, providing extra paddock space, moving waterers, and having time to move the horses are all important in rotational grazing. We can subdivide pastures, making the horses graze the more uniformly. Temporary wire and posts can be used to make rotations more flexible. Allowing horses more to graze at a time will reduce the frequency of movement. We can also have a common area or dry lot for horses that allows for temporarily removing access from the grazing areas and feeding hay. Contact your Extension Agent for solutions that complement your resources and your individual situation.

Another reason for over-grazing is forage availability. Bermudagrass is mostly available for grazing from April to October, depending on weather, field conditions, and other factors. Fescue is mostly available in fall and spring and ryegrass and other winter annuals are mostly available in winter and spring. We expect a lot from our forages but we must give it time to rest too. Otherwise, we end up with a less than ideal grazing situation. Having a grazing plan that incorporates forages will help fill gaps for grazing.

Resolution #2: I will not allow weeds to completely take over my pastures.

A few weeds in a pasture are normal. But when buttercup is completely covering the pasture with yellow blossoms and there’s no grass to be seen, buttercup has taken over. There are a few things that will give our forages some relief.

Weed control strategies depend on the time of year, the type of forage, the weed, and other factors. The first thing to do is to identify the weed that is causing a problem. The type of weed and the stage of growth will be major factors of concern in control. Weeds are usually easier to control before they flower and develop a seed head due to maturity. Mowing will control the reproduction of some weeds, even if the individual plant is not controlled. Some weeds tolerate a low or high soil pH or low or high fertility compared to the forage. Paying attention to soil needs will allow the forage to compete against weeds and ultimately can reduce the weed problem. Some weeds are a nuisance and can be a toxicity problem or mechanical injury for horses; others are not as troublesome. Follow label directions when using herbicides and consult your Extension Agent for weed control advice.

Resolution #3: I will take a soil test on my pastures and follow recommendations.

Taking a soil test of our pastures gives us an accurate account of how much lime is needed and what the plant response will be if we add certain nutrients. Routine soil testing is available through the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services (NCDA & CS) free for North Carolina residents. Soil testing and often precision testing is available through other labs as well. The lab will provide you a report of what needs to be added or changed for your crop. Taking a soil test in a pasture involves taking several core samples about 4 to 6 inches deep, mixing the cores together in a plastic bucket, and adding that soil to a sample box. NCDA & CS labs and other labs will want to know what is planted there so they can match the nutrient qualities of the soil with the plant’s requirements. Keeping soil conditions at the optimum level is a great way to encourage forages to grow and compete well with weeds, leading to more forage availability and faster re-growth.

Resolution #4: I will not graze pastures during establishment periods.

Think about what happens to forages during grazing.

Here I am, a short little bermudagrass seedling with two leaves and a thin stem. My root system is just starting to get used to my new home, and from the base of my stem to the end of the root is probably only a couple of inches. Chomp. A horse just nibbled one of my leaves off, now I only have one leaf to catch sunlight and make food for myself. A horse passes me up, I don’t look very appetizing anymore. I’m growing pretty slowly because it’s taking me so long to make food with just one leaf. Chomp. A hungry horse just got my other leaf. Uh oh.

When seeds are planted, it takes weeks for that plant to be ready to have leaf removed through grazing. The root system must be strong and the plant needs enough leaf area after grazing to make food for itself. Putting horses on forages too soon after seeding or sprigging is bad for the forage and expensive for horse owners.

I am often asked, “How soon can I put my horses on the forage? It depends on the forage and the field conditions. A general rule of thumb is that bermudagrass can be grazed once it starts running and when that trend is seen throughout the pasture. It is easy to want to put horses on a pasture that was sprigged in February if we see it greening up from dormancy in April. But putting them on it too soon may result in the horses pulling up sprigs completely because the root system is not well-established to tolerate grazing.

What about seeded bermudagrass? When it starts running, the plant is better able to adapt to grazing than when it is a single stem with three little leaves on it. Once you strip all the leaves off, that spindly plant is putting all its efforts into producing more energy just so it can survive. If you constantly have horses on it, the plant will eventually die because it can’t hold up to grazing pressure.

Fortunately, bermudagrass stores most of its food in the lower 3 inches of the plant, making it hold up to close grazing better than fescue and many other forages. We often recommend that forages not be grazed until the grass begins “tillering.” Tillering is the formation of a stem produced by grass plants, and a tiller refers to all shoots that grow after the initial parent shoot grows from a seed (Source: Wikipedia). In other words, you need to leave some leaf area and structure on the plant in order for it to grow at an acceptable rate for more leaf removal. My father-in-law says that in a family of eight growing up, the saying at the dinner table was “take some, leave some, then there will always be some.” This is true for forages too!

Time to Resolve for Better Pasture Management

Our pastures serve so many roles for our animals. Horses benefit from eating forage for their health and they enjoy grazing to pass their time. Pastures serve as a habitat for microorganisms and plants as well, and they give a lot back to us. All they ask is for a little special attention now and then – they need good soil conditions, they need us to give them enough rest so they can keep growing, they need us to give them time to get big before grazing. In 2012, let’s resolve to do a better job at any of these resolutions to make our forages happy.

Simple Winter Tips for Your Horse

It’s that time of the year again. Where the weather man’s report for the next two to three months is consisted of gray clouds, chances of snow, single-digit temperatures, and northern winds that could even make Frosty shiver. With this, people are starting to enjoy the indoors where the hot cocoa, a warm fireplace, and fuzzy slippers are at their disposal.

But for us horse owners, we know it is not only us humans who need to be prepared for winter. Our horses as well need to be ready for the cold freeze. But simple management is the key to getting your “four-legged” loved ones ready.

FEED
Like us, horses have their needs of living. Their needs consist of three main components: Feed, Water, and Shelter. With temperatures falling dramatically, it is always best to make sure your horses is warm.

One of the best ways to keep your horses warm is to give them more hay. Extra consumption of hay is used as fat or insulation during the cold days of winter. The amount of hay given to an average horse is 2% of his body weight. During winter time, the amount should be increased 5-15%, but if hay is scarce in your area; you can give your horse whole oats in its feed rather than giving extra hay. Whole oats help produce body heat when digested. If oats won’t do, then high fibered feeds like cubed-hay could work.

WATER
Water is practically essential to all life. Horses drink an approximate amount of 5-10 gallons of water per day during the winter. But some horses refuse to drink extremely cold water during the winter months. Less water and more forage intake is the common road to severe cases of colic. With that being said, it is best to make sure your horse has plenty of warm water nearby. Using a de-icer element for your water tanks will keep the water in a comfortable temperature during the day and will also keep it from freezing during the night. Check the level of water in the tanks each day to make sure your horse is drinking plenty. If you have access, for horses that are put up in stalls; run water from a warm water faucet rather than cold water. The more access to water, the less chance of dehydration or colic for your horse.

SHELTER
Shelter is a main factor for keeping your horse warm. Though it is true that a horse produces a fairly good winter coat for the occasion, it is rather difficult to keep body heat in when there is wind, rain, and snow. Wind can remove body heat that is trapped in the long fur and can make the horse lose his warmth.

A blanket can be useful for this predicament. Depending on the common winter weather your area gets, depends on the heaviness or warmth of the blanket. If your pastures are open and have no windbreakers like trees or a barn wall, and if your area becomes more wet than usual; then it is advised to give him a blanket that is wind protected, waterproof, and of the heaviest material. But horses do have an impeccable way of tearing the blanket, so check your blanket supply and make sure that the blankets are not worn with holes. Unless there is a strong wind and your horse has no other protection like a windbreaker or blanket; then it is an option to put your horse in a stall.

If the number of stalls for your horses is limited, then a run-in shed is required. A three-wall building with a slated roof is most common. With this kind of windbreaker, the horse has a way to be removed from the inclement weather. A good 4-6 inches of bedding can also be placed on the shed floor. Make sure there is a way to drain any water out of the shed, and check every day to make sure the bedding is comfortable and clean out old manure and bedding if necessary. If you have more than one horse living in a pasture; it is best to make sure the shed is large enough for them all.

If all else fails, and putting your horse in a stall is the only option left; make sure you clean it out and put a good amount of bedding in there. Make sure there are no nails sticking out of the wood and there is not any loose boards where the horse could get his legs torn or stuck.

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER
There are many other things to consider when protecting your horse during the winter. If your horse will not be ridden during the winter period; it is then best to trim their hooves now and periodically through the winter. Also, leave them barefooted as shoes will cause them to slip if snow is on the ground.

With the winter here, it would be good for to schedule your local to float your horses’ teeth as sharp molars could cause injuries when chewing winter forage.

Keep an eye out for any injuries on your horses, as injuries could cause infection or even Tetanus as this is a perfect climate for the microorganisms of Clostridium tetani.

REMEMBER
Keeping your horse warm from the winter elements is essential. Giving plenty of hay, keeping the water warm near all times, having access to a sturdy shelter or windbreaker, and a winter blanket to protect from the rain, or snow. By doing this and the other common chores of hoof trimming, floating, and doctoring injuries; you can guarantee your horses that they will be comfortable and warm throughout the whole winter and can look forward in the near future.

This article was revised from University of Tennessee-Extension Animal Science Horse Information Series, Is Your Horse Ready for Winter by Dr. Fredrick Harper http://animalscience.ag.utk.edu/Horse/pdf/winterea.pdf
And, University of Tennessee-Extension Animal Science Horse Information Series, Managing Your Horse in “Cold” Weather by Dr. Fredrick Harper http://animalscience.ag.utk.edu/Horse/pdf/ColdWeatherHorseMgtHIS125_3-5-03.pdf

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Stallion Breeding Management

Although many people do not own stallions that they keep on their farm, there are some farms that have a need for a stallion almost daily. Before you purchase a stallion to keep on your farm, there are some precautions you should take to ensure not only you are safe, but also your stallion, mares, and facilities.

Stallions need to be properly housed in order to be comfortable as well as not to injure anyone. Some stallions do not pose a concern around most horses, but some stallions become highly aggressive during the breeding season. If a farm has more than one stallion, it is important that they be separated from the rest of the horses. Since the main reason to have stallions is for them to breed, they may not be handled as often as other horses. This means they may spend more time in their stall than other horses. Because of this, stallions need to be kept in larger stalls. Typically, wood is the material of choice to build stalls for stallions because it does give slightly if kicked, but is not as loud as metal stalls. In addition, stallions do not need to spend all of their time in a stall; they need exercise. Even if it is just hand-walking, it is important to ensure stallions have exercise, which may help increase semen production.

Nutrition is a key part of a stallion’s health. During the breeding season, stallions typically increase their exercise. Also, their energy will need to be increased meaning they need to be on a good nutritional program to keep their strength up for breeding season. Body condition scoring of stallions can be done by measuring the fat cover on various parts of the stallion’s body, including the neck, shoulder, croup, back, and ribs. Some owners like to supplement with different species of hay, including legumes or grass hay. No matter what the owner chooses, it is important that the stallion receive the proper nutrition not just during breeding season, but all year.

For more information about properly managing stallions, please visit the original article by clicking here and scroll down to the .pdf file titled "An Overview of Stallion Breeding Management." If you have any questions, feel free to contact your local Cooperative Extension Office.

Winter Care for Horses

As colder weather approaches, and horses are being ridden less and less, it is easy to forget how much care and excersize they need during the winter. Colder weather has effects on energy requirements, water requirements, feeding requirements, hair coat, shelter requirements and hoof care. To see how to care for your horses during the winter to make them less susceptible to health problems and diseases, see this article written by Kathy Anderson, Extension Horse Specialist at the University of Nebraska on eXtension.org.

Getting the Jump Start on “Next Year’s Weeds”

As a general rule of thumb, we tend to worry about weed control when it is to late; to late for noticing the weed, to late when identifying the weed, and to late chemically or physically removing the weed. Also as a general rule of thumb, we livestock producers tend to think of ourselves as just that, livestock producers. We often consider ourselves cattle, horse, meat goat, dairy, pork, chicken, or turkey producers especially on our pasture-based systems. However the fortunate truth of the matter is that we are indeed forage producers. If we can grow and sustain a healthy forage crop for 365 days out of the year, then 99% of the time our livestock animals will take care of themselves nutritionally.

So where does weed control fit into the whole forage producer scheme? Weeds compete year-round with our forages for sunlight, nutrients, and water. While small winter annual weeds look miniscule, harmless, and nearly un-noticeable right now, they are robbing your fescue, orchardgrass, legume, and even your dormant bermuda’s nutrients. In a grass based grazing system, controlling these weeds is very easy and inexpensive. At this point in the growing season these weeds are to small to mow or control physically in an effective manner. However, chemically removing these weeds now is extremely effective and gives your forage a jump start on out-competing these weeds, especially come spring when the forage begins to boom with growth. If you are in a grass based grazing system, then applying 1-2 pints of 2,4D per acre right now would do justice to eliminating the majority of your winter annual/perennial weeds. The advantage of using a 2,4D based pasture herbicide right now is that you completely avoid drift onto row crops, and with applying lower rates of 1 pint per acre you can avoid stunting to any rye or oats overseeded into your pasture. Upping the rate to 2 pints per acre will cause some stunting of overseeded rye and oats, and 2 pints is preferred to be applied onto established fescue, orchardgrass, and dormant bermudagrass. 1 pint per acre of 2,4D will control 90% of your broadleaf weeds if applied to weeds less than 3 inches tall. Weeds controlled by 2,4D are Purple cudweed, Henbit, Chickweed, Wild salad, and Marestail. Be sure to follow labeled rates when applying 2,4D and to include 1 pint of non-ionic surfactant per 100 gallons of water. Also be careful as to read for any re-entry grazing intervals on the herbicide label. Another key point is to apply this herbicide on days of 60 degree weather or warmer for maximum control. If you need help identifying weeds, calibrating a sprayer, or selecting the right herbicide for weed control then contact your local county Extension Agent. Following these steps with winter weed control will allow you a successful head start on next spring’s forage crop.

Seth Holt

Agriculture Agent – Field Crops, Livestock, Aquatics, and Pesticide Coordinator

Lee County

Seth_Holt@ncsu.edu

Establishing and Managing Drylots for Horses

In North Carolina, we focus on utilizing our land as much as possible, especially when it comes reducing our feed cost. In reality we probably have more unmanaged or under-managed horse farms then we want in North Carolina. These are the farms that are eye sores to the non-agricultural audience and they are the ones that get the animal welfare calls as well as get the county administration discussions started on livestock ordinances or zoning issues. Yes, every land owners wants lush green pastures over rolling hills, but unfortunately there is not a master blue print for every farm or a one size fits all. Taking small steps such as creating drylots is a step forward to beautifying your horse farm.

Drylots, or exercise paddocks, provide an opportunity to move horses off the pasture during high stress periods to protect pastures from being overgrazed. Drylots can vary in size but should provide a minimum of 400-500 square feet per horse. The size should be increased proportionally as the number of horses increase. These paddocks are typically situated near barns, are used only to provide exercise, and generally contain a limited amount of vegetation. Drylots can also serve as holding areas during periods of heavy rainfall and drought until pasture conditions improve. Extremely wet pasture can be damaged by the tearing action of horse’s hooves while cantering. Forage growth is reduced during drought conditions. Continued grazing during droughts will destroy the plant growth reserves.

Drylots should be located adjacent to pasture areas with a common gate opening into each pasture. A permanent perimeter fence should be used to enclose the drylot area. Corral panels, four board fence, woven wire with a support board, etc. are recommended. Permanent electric fence systems, that are highly visible, provide an inexpensive option.

The drylot area should include a holding shed, an alternative water source, and ample area to feed hay free choice. Ideally the water source and loafing shed should be at opposite ends of the drylot to encourage movement of the horses and limit the soil erosion typically found in heavy traffic areas. The loafing or run-in shed can be one; two or three sided with a sloping roofline to repel water. Typically a three-sided run-in shed, constructed to allow expansion to accept increased stocking rates is used. Run-in sheds, 12 by 12 foot accommodate one to two horses. As horse numbers increase, run-in shed dimensions should increase by 12 feet per unit of increased horse numbers:

You should also create a sacrifice area. This is a small enclosure such as a paddock, corral, or pen that is sacrificed for the benefit of the rest of the pasture(s). Livestock should be confined to this area during the winter months and when the pastures are saturated from rain.

Installing a ‘sacrifice lot’ is a good way to prevent the horses from using a pasture when the conditions are too wet. This area is a fenced dry lot with shelter, water, and feeders, so the horses can be turned out and fed hay, but not allowed access to the pasture. In order to help prevent pollution of runoff through the sacrifice lot, manure and old hay should be picked from the area every 1 to 3 days. This will remove the organic matter that is used to convert soil to mud. Maintain a grass area of about 25 feet around the sacrifice lot to serve as a filter for any runoff.

Article written by Ann Swinker, Extension Horse Specialist, Penn State University and Tyrone Fisher, Harnett County Director, North Carolina State University.

North Carolina Equine Activity Liability Statute

For many North Carolinians horseback riding and equestrian events are relaxing and fun. The last thing anyone wants to think about is getting injured. However, accidents do happen and the best way to be prepared is to know the law and how it is going to affect you. The North Carolina Equine Activity Liability Statute can be found online at http://www.ncga.state.nc.us/enactedlegislation/statutes/html/bychapter/chapter_99e.html.

All horse and equine owners should read and be familiar with this law. Just because you are unaware of your legal responsibilities, does not excuse you from them. According to the law “equine” includes horses, ponies, mules, donkeys and hinnies. Be aware that the statute protects but only to a limit. It covers injuries categorized as “inherent” risks but not those caused by negligent acts. Inherent risks are those that are an “integral part of engaging in an equine activity”. They consist of damage or death caused by unruly animal behavior and the reaction of the animal to its surroundings specifically sounds, movements, unfamiliar objects, people and other animals but does not cover accidents involving motor vehicles. Just because the injury falls into one of the categories above does not mean that an owner will not have a lawsuit filed against them by the injured.

All equine owners should always have appropriate insurance coverage. Talk to your local insurance agent to make sure that your current policy covers injuries sustained by your animals. If not, you may seriously think about upgrading it. The law requires a specific warning be posted “in a clearly visible location” anytime an equine professional or equine activity sponsor holds an event. Signs can be purchased through the NC Horse Council online (http://www.nchorsecouncil.com/store.htm).

For more information on the statute, please feel free to contact the NC Horse Council in Raleigh by calling 1-800-529-9206.

Equine Abortions

If you have pregnant mares, you should be vaccinating them with a vaccine that prevents abortion from Equine Herpesvirus. In mares, abortion is a failure of the fetus before it reaches the 300-day gestation period. Anything after that period is considered to be an early delivery of the foal. There are many reasons that abortions occur. They can occur because of bacterial, fungal, or viral infections, insufficient nutrition, deformities, twinning, twisted umbilical cords, disease, hormonal problems, or even stress. Only around 40% of equine abortions are actually diagnosed as to the exact cause. The picture below is a fetus that was aborted because of stress and trauma. The mare was moved into a pasture with a dominant mare a few months before she was due. The dominant mare kicked her in the side and not long after, she aborted the fetus.

A lot of time and money are spent on the care of pregnant mares, so it’s important to protect your investment by spending a few dollars on a vaccine, giving proper nutrition to the mare, and trying not to put her in stressful situations. The vaccine will prevent abortions from Equine Herpesvirus. There are many different types of vaccines that prevent abortion from Herpesvirus, please see the article below written by Mike Yoder posted on October 3^rd for names and times given. Most breeding contracts require mare owners to vaccinate pregnant mares.

You may not always find an aborted fetus in the pasture or stall, particularly with early term abortions. Other signs of abortion include: coughing, fever, depression, discharge, mammary gland growth, bleeding, and swelling in the legs. A mare, however, may not show any signs.

Many people ride pregnant mares, but you have to be very careful when doing this because you don’t want to cause any stress to the mare. You will need to refrain from strenuous activity and always check with your veterinarian about when it is safe to ride her. Mares do need some exercise to remain healthy during pregnancy. If they do not exercise and are too fat, they may have problems delivering a healthy foal.

Hopefully, everything will go right with the pregnancy after all of your preparations and you will get a healthy foal like the one below.

Sand Colic

There are many different causes of colic, but in the eastern part of North Carolina there is a special concern of sand colic due to the common soil types of the area. This type of colic is caused by the accumulation of sand and small pieces of gravel in the large colon. Horses fed on the ground, in overgrazed pastures, and in feed lots are at a much higher risk. The signs of sand colic will mimic other types of colic but can also show signs such as diarrhea. You should also look for sand in the feces, because this is another good sign that sand could be settling into the large colon. For more information, facts, and prevention tips please click here and read the extension publication from Utah State University.

Fort Bragg MWR Horse Auction

MWR will be holding a horse auction on November 17 at 10 am because of the poor grazing conditions at Smith Lake Stables. This link will provide you with more information about the sale and the horses. Please share this information with anyone who may be interested so that these horses can find good new homes!

Fecal Egg Counting

Fecal Egg Counting is becoming more predominate everyday with wormers not having their true effect anymore on all types of livestock, including horses. Specialist and Extension agents all over the United States are seeing more of an increase in resistance wormers and are pushing for horse owners to use a Fecal Egg Counting Test. Due to the way horses eat on pastures by them eating everything in sight and eating till the pasture is very close to the ground they are very susceptiable to worms. Most of the worms that infect our horses and livestock live at the ground to two inches up. Horse owners need to keep this in mind when looking at the best management practices for their horses.
Fecal Egg Counting is a guide to help producers evaluate their worming protocols. With a fecal sample from a producers horse one can identify before and after worming an animal to see if the wormer was needed and to see if it successfully did its job. This is a great tool for any producer to use to help with worming issues and one that is a simple process to complete. For help with any questions relating to Fecal Egg Counting please contact your local Extension Agent and we will be glad to assist you in anyway we can. For more information go to:
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/AG_Equine_2009-01pr.pdf

Equine Coggins, Vaccination, & Teeth Floating Clinic

A great event is coming up in Lenoir County at the Lenoir County Livestock Arena on Saturday November 5th. Livestock Veterinary Services is partnering with our local REINS (Regional Equine Information Network System) volunteers to provide a working clinic for horse owners. See the brochure for information on registration and costs. Contact Dr. Justin Martin at 252-933-1483 or 252-527-4960 for more information.

Hay Quality: Tools for Visual Appraisal

Most folks think that they know "horse hay" when they see it. Taking forage samples and getting nutrient analysis testing through NCDA&CS is the best way to get complete analysis and know for sure but visual appraisal of hay is important as well. There are key factors to look for when visually analyzing hay, including stage of maturity, leafiness, color, smell, and presence of foreign material. Using these tools can give you a guideline for inspecting hay.

Stage of maturity refers to the forage plant's stage of growth. Generally speaking the earlier growth stages will be higher in nutritive value than later harvested crops. Alfalfa hays should be harvested in the bud stage and can be identified by small buds at the tips of the stems but no purple flowers visible yet. The leaves will be very soft and the stems reasonably fine and pliable. As alfalfa becomes more mature the purple flowers will become more evident and stems much more coarse and almost woody. Grass hay maturity can be easily evaluated by examining for the presence and maturity of seed heads. Early harvested grass hays will have a minimal amount of seed heads and those present will be in early development and soft or easily crushed by the fingertips. Very mature grass hays will have numerous seed heads and often have a yellowish to brown color that comes from the maturation of the stems.

Leafiness is an excellent indicator of hay quality and therefore feed value as a high percentage of digestible nutrients are found in the leaves. This is somewhat related to stage of maturity as the younger the plants are at harvest the higher percentage of leaf-to-stem that the hay will be. A high percentage of leaves is also an indicator of good harvest and handling practices, especially in alfalfa type hays where improper handling can cause drastic leaf reduction. In general, hay with high leaf content has a higher percentage of nutrients and greater energy value than hay with fewer leaves.

Color is another important factor and should be the color of the immature crop in the field before it is cut. This desirable bright green coloration usually indicates that the hay was rapidly and properly cured in the field with little delays or weather damage. Sun-bleached hay is a light yellow color and can be evaluted by looking at the inside of the bales to determine if this damage was done before or after baling. If done after then the inside of the bale will be the bright green color and could have been bales stored near opening of the barn where direct sunlight was allowed to hit the stored bales. If the inside of the bales are light yellow then the hay probably stayed in the field too long and sun bleached thoroughly diminishing the overall value of the hay. Rain or moisture damaged hay will have a coloration that is more dark brown or even black in drastic situations. Brown hay can also indicate mold growth which can occur from the hay not being sufficient cured before it was baled. Moldy hays should be avoided at all costs. This brings us to our next hay characteristic of smell or odor. Hay should smell like the newly mown field free of musty, moldy, dusty, or just plain off-odored smells.

Inspection for foreign materials is another tool when visually evaluating hay. Obviously the presence of road-side trash, leaves, limbs, and sticks can downgrade hay quality but the precense of weeds can be the most common foreign material found in hay. Broad leaf weeds such as horse nettle, dogfennel, or pigweeds can be hiding in those bales so careful examination could be vital as there presence may cause the refusal to eat. Furthermore weed seeds can also pass undigested in manure and cause weed infestations in pastures or wherever the manure is dispersed.

In summary, whether you are buying or selling, producing or feeding, hay quality should be a major consideration. These tools for visual appraisal are important indicators of hay quality but there is no substitute for physically taking samples for routine nutrient analysis.

Does Bermuda Hay Cause Colic?

Does Bermudagrass Hay Cause Colic?

Randy Wood, Scotland County Cooperative Extension

(with excerpts from Dr. Bob Mowrey, NCSU Animal Science)

This is one of the long debated topics among horse owners and equine veterinarians in the Southeast for the last several years. The problem is that after years of debate, as well as a few research trials that have attempted to answer this question, we still do not have a definitive answer to this age-old question. Despite not having a clear-cut answer, we do know a few things about Bermuda hay and impaction colics.

· The type of colic associated with bermudagrass is an ileocecal colic, which is difficult to treat but fortunately not very commonly seen (as far as colics go).

· Water intake (or more specifically lack thereof) is directly related to this type of colic. So for horses that have restricted access to water, or are slow to drink due to weather conditions, this compounds the chance of colic greatly.

· Bermudagrass hay, no matter how high the quality, is not as easily digestible as Timothy or above average Alfalfa.

· Horses that are suddenly switched to a mature Bermuda hay from green forage or a timothy-type hay are much more prone to colic-type problems than ones that are gradually introduced.

· There are some horses in the world that are just going to be prone to this type of colic. If so, Bermuda hay is not the best choice.

One of the biggest factors that are associated with Bermuda colic is the level of maturity of the grass when harvested. While other factors such as the presence of mold and weeds will affect the quality of hay, the maturity level tends to be the major deciding factor with associated colics. The more mature a bermudagrass plant is, the lower the digestibility the resulting hay will have. To try to put a value on this, you will need a full analysis of the hay in question. The ADF value (acid detergent fiber) measures the digestibility of the hay. Hays with values at or below 35% are considered very digestible, while hays with ADF values above 35% are going to be less digestible, and thus more prone to cause problems.

So what does this mean to the average horse owner who is feeding Bermuda hay? In a nutshell, if your horse(s) have been on Bermuda hay for more than a few weeks and has never experienced any type of impaction colic, you should be able to say that your horse can handle Bermuda hay barring an unforeseen issue. On the other hand, if you have a horse that has had some colic problems in the past, and is not a big water drinker you probably would do well to keep a close watch on them and pay attention to your hay quality. Below is a guideline for things to watch for;

· Make sure the hay you are buying is relatively “young” hay, or is “horse” quality. A hay analysis can help you determine this (measuring the ADF values mentioned above), but so can an experienced eye when the time comes to purchase your hay for the winter.

· Use common sense and proper management when introducing a newly purchased or boarded horse onto Bermuda hay. Don’t allow horses to gorge themselves on Bermuda hay the first few times they are fed it. Keep a close eye on them for the first several days to make sure they are not having problems digesting the hay.

· Make sure they are getting proper water intake.

· Finally, if you know a particular horse in your barn is prone to colic, feeding that one particular horse a timothy or alfalfa hay mixture may be cheaper in the long run than a vet bill.

So while no clear answers are to be had for the question of does Bermuda hay cause colics, it is clear than some horse will be easier to manage on Bermuda than others.

Equine Pregnancy: the Last Trimester

Mike Yoder, NCSU Extension Horse Specialist

Late Fall into early winter is usually a quiet time for the broodmare. Most mares are entering the last trimester of their pregnancy, a time when many changes occur. Through the fall and into the early winter there are two primary concerns for the broodmare manager, nutrition and disease prevention. Maintaining the mare in good body condition and preparing her to ward off any diseases that may interfere with the pregnancy.

Nutrition

At no point during the last trimester of pregnancy should a mare be losing weight. Mares that lose weight are said to be in a negative plane of nutrition and have been shown to lose pregnancies at a higher rate than mares that are maintaining or gaining weight (positive plane of nutrition). While we do not want mares to be obese, a little extra body condition serves two purposes: first, when the mare foals and begins to nurse the foal, her energy demands increase as much as 50 percent. Increasing her feed intake quickly to meet this sudden requirement for energy, may make the mare susceptible to colic or founder. However, a mare that is slightly fat at foaling has stored energy to draw upon for 7 to 10 days while you are gradually increasing her feed intake to meet energy demands.

The second benefit of having mares on a positive plane of nutrition at foaling is the ease with which they rebreed. Mares on a positive plane of nutrition rebreed sooner than mares who are on a negative plane of nutrition and are more likely to maintain the pregnancy. The point to be remembered is that mares should be gaining or maintaining weight at foaling and then energy should be increased to maintain at least a moderate body condition until the foal is weaned. Quality forage, regardless of the kind, should be the basis of your nutrition program with grain and mineral supplements used only as needed to balance nutrients and maintain body condition.

Vaccinations

Rhinopneumonitis, EHV-1, is a virus that may cause a mare to lose her pregnancy, or in some cases, perinatal foal mortality. EHV-1 is a herpesvirus acquired by inhalation. It is generally recommended that mares should be vaccinated against Rhinopneumonitis using a killed vaccine. The following table provides information on the most common EHV-1 vaccines.

Name	Pneumabort-K	Prestige II	Prodigy	Rhinomune
Type	Killed	Killed	Killed	Attenuated live
When to Give	5, 7, 9 months of gestation		5, 7, 9 months of gestation	After 2nd month Then every 3 months.
Notes	Vaccinate pregnant and non-pregnant mares at same time.	EHV-1, EHV-4, and influenza subtypes A1 and A2.	Effective against virus-associated abortion.	No adverse reactions have been reported in pregnant mares vaccinated with this product.

Herpes virus vaccines usually do not provide long term protection, thus most are given every 2 to 3 months. Of the vaccines listed above, Pneumabort-K is listed as effective against an EHV-1 outbreak, but there is some controversy over whether or not any of the vaccines are effective for use after the disease is established in a herd. To minimize the chance of EHV-1 infection, resident mares should not be exposed to outside mares. Stress may also make mares more susceptible to the virus, so maintaining a stress free routine for the mare is beneficial.

Mares should also be vaccinated, using killed or inactivated vaccine, for Influenza, Tetanus, and Encephalomyelitis. Boosters for each of these should be given to pregnant mares 30 – 45 days prior to foaling to enhance passive immunity in the foal. Always discuss your vaccination program with your veterinarian and heed their advice concerning modifications to these recommendations.

Maintaining your mare’s immunity and a desirable body condition through the last trimester of pregnancy will help position your mare to produce a healthy foal and rebreed in a timely manner. Be sure to observe your mare at least twice daily to quickly identify any nutrition or health issues that may impact your mare and/or the foal she is carrying.

EASTERN EQUINE ENCEPHALITIS - EEE

With the recent hurricane "Irene" horse owners have become worried about EEE (Eastern Equine Enciphalitis). Here is some information that should help when conditions are favorable for mosquitoes and the spread of EEE.

EEE is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system of many species of animals but is most often detected in birds and horses. The disease is transmitted to horses, and sometimes humans, by mosquitoes that have become infected after feeding on birds, which are circulating the virus. This is known as the mosquito/bird transmission cycle. It is important to remember that the virus is not transmitted directly from an infected horse to other horses or people.

Signs in infected horses can be varied but usually begin with fever, depression and listlessness, which then progress to more serious neurologic signs such as in-coordination, stumbling, circling, head pressing, coma and usually death. Once a horse becomes infected with the EEE virus and develops neurologic signs, the disease is fatal in roughly 90% of cases.

In most reported cases, the infected horses are four years or younger and are not current on vaccination against EEE. The initial series of two vaccinations should be given four weeks apart followed by semiannual boosters. In years with an above-average incidence of EEE, vaccination boosters given three times a year are recommended. Ask your veterinarian at what age to begin and the frequency of foal vaccination, as it differs from adult horses.

The use of vaccine to protect horses against EEE and other encephalitic disease, such as West Nile, is only a tool and should be used in conjunction with good mosquito reduction and avoidance measures implemented to protect yourself and your horse. The key is mosquito control to stop the mosquito/bird infection cycle. The most effective method is to destroy the mosquito larval habitat by removing all potential sources of stagnant water, in which mosquitoes might breed. Mosquitoes can breed in any puddle that lasts more than four days. Water buckets, water troughs, wading pools, birdbaths, wheelbarrows, clogged roof gutters, discarded tires, plastic containers or any water-holding container should be cleaned or emptied on a weekly basis. Drill holes in the bottom of containers that are left out-of-doors, turn over wheelbarrows, aerate ornamental pools and stock them with fish or chlorinate them.

In addition to reducing mosquito populations, preventing animals from being exposed to adult mosquitoes is important. Horses should be stabled inside during peak mosquito feeding times, which are dawn and dusk. Use of mosquito-resistant structures such as well-maintained insect screening and fans may reduce potential access of mosquitoes to equine and other livestock hosts. Insect repellants can be effective for humans and have some limited value for horses as well.

Horse owners should use repellents approved for use on horses, but the effectiveness of some formulations under certain conditions (e.g., rain, perspiration) may be limited. Always follow label instructions. Horse owners are encouraged to contact their veterinarian immediately should they notice any signs or symptoms of EEE infection in their horses, especially those exhibiting neurological signs.

This article came from the website : to veiw the whole article click on the link : http://www.freshfromflorida.com/ai/main/eee.shtml

Laura Martin

Wake County Livestock Agent

Sampling Season……….

By Paul Westfall, Granville & Warren County Cooperative Extension

Horse pastures, like pastures for any animal that utilizes forages to meet nutritional needs, require just the right amounts of nutrients in order to have maximum growth and to enhance forage quality. Since overseeding pastures was addressed in an earlier column, I thought this one should focus on meeting the nutritional needs of the grasses and legumes that are either already present in a fall pasture or are being overseeded to improve that pasture over a long period of time. The thought is that providing the right amount of nutrients to the forages will allow the forages to have a better chance of providing the right amount of nutrients to your horses. Pasture grasses that are high in protein and are highly digestible are more cost effective to feed than going to the feed store and purchasing extra supplements or going out and buying “horse hay” at a premium price.

I know this is an old message, but it needs to be heard – get the soil in your pastures tested. Right now is a great time to get that done, as the wait time is as short as it is likely to be at the lab. The only way to know how much lime or fertilizer to apply – and to ensure the right ratio of fertilizer is used – is to see what is already in place. Lime is critical to balance the soil pH for forage production, and the nutrients are the building blocks for forage growth and quality. I know that the ground has been too hard to dig in for most of the summer, but areas that have received rainfall lately may be ready for testing. Instructions for sampling a pasture or field are available at your county Cooperative Extension office.

It’s also time to start taking inventory on what forage is going to be available for the upcoming winter. That inventory should include the amount of hay in storage and what the quality of that hay is. The only way to determine the quality is to get forage samples tested at a qualified lab. For best results, sample each cutting of each field in order to formulate rations to best meet the nutritional needs of your horses at different times during the winter. The NCDA&CS lab in Raleigh is the most cost effective one to use. Your county Cooperative Extension office should have the sampling instructions and forms. Some offices have sampling tools that can be borrowed to take the samples.

The inventory will also allow a horse owner to assess whether or not there is enough pasture and hay available to get through the feeding season. If hay must be purchased, it is usually less expensive in the fall when supplies are relatively high.

I’ve seen a lot of hay that was harvested or purchased and called “high quality” that actually tested at 7% Crude Protein. Some of that hay was pretty high dollar stuff that was transported in from Nebraska or Oklahoma. Not only was it low in protein, but also was pretty highly indigestible. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to pay for or feed hay that might not be better than a snowball.

My point here is that a horse owner needs to know what’s in the forage in order to make the best decisions about what else to feed to the horses to meet the maintenance, gestation, lactation, growth, or work needs of the horses. That information is also needed to make good purchasing decisions when buying forages, too.

I’ll mention one other factor to consider when dealing with hay. A lot of hay doesn’t get the care it deserves once it is harvested. Round bales tend to wait in the field until it is convenient to move them to a storage area. I’ve seen too many storage areas that were not set up very well, causing the bales to deteriorate and mold. If you are harvesting hay for your horses, be sure to get it stored properly to reduce bale loss, and reduce mold, and to keep the forage quality in that hay as high as possible. That means storing round bales on pallets, leaving space between the bales, and covering them if they can’t be stored under a roof. Demand that any hay that you buy has been treated well in storage. If you do purchase hay, consider setting some quality parameters and be sure to review the forage test results before sealing the deal. That’s worth offering a little premium on the price since there is less risk of getting a load of low quality hay from a dealer if quality parameters are set.

Testing. Extension Agents sure say that word a lot. We are just trying to help folks gain some information so decisions aren't made in a vacuum. To sum it up, don’t just guess – get a test! Especially when we are talking about feeding nutrients to our forages in the pasture or the quality of forage being fed to our horses.

Horse Trailering Safety Tips

Last year, I attended a Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue Training. One section was on transportation accidents. The instructor showed many pictures of trailer accidents that ranged from no injuries to serious horse injuries to cases of animal and human deaths. Some of the cases were caused by operator error and could have been avoided. Two areas that are a major concern are poor hitching and tire problems. This article will discuss tips to keep your vehicle and trailer in the best working condition.

Vehicle

Several items to consider on your vehicle include the truck and engine size, electrical and brake systems, hitch type and ball size. The truck and engine size needs to have adequate power and pulling ability. Your vehicle should be the appropriate size to pull the load of the trailer. Do not use a vehicle that is too small or too big for your trailer. The electrical system should provide lights and a trailer braking system.

The vehicle should have a safe, sturdy hitch that is bolted or welded to the frame. Safety chains further attach the trailer to the vehicle. The chains should not drag the ground. The hitch height should be adjusted to allow the trailer to run level down the road. Use the proper ball size for your trailer. The ball and hitch should be checked for wear and tear. Before leaving, confirm the hitch is hooked up properly.

Trailer

Your trailer must be comfortable and safe for your horses. It should have adequate length, width and height. Other items to consider are the floors, mats, padding, ventilation and design. The horse should have room to move back and forth and front and back. A rule of thumb is the trailer should be 10 inches taller than the normal resting position of the horse’s head. Trailer lights are needed for visibility and to indicate changes in trailer movement. Flooring is an important part of the trailer. Check for rotten or broken boards and replace if needed. The floors should not be slick from urine or wear. Rubber mats, wood shavings, and straw are materials to cover wood floors to provide extra cushion and comfort. Proper tire inflation should be maintained at all times. Make sure you have the correct spare tire, jack, and lug wenches for the vehicle and trailer. The trailer should have a “butt bar” or safety chain to keep the horse from pushing on the trailer door.

There are varying opinions on tying a horse or leaving it loose in the trailer. If you tie your horse, make sure there is enough rope so it can move its head and neck adequately for balance. Horses tied too long can turn around or move in the trailer. Always tie with a quick-release knot or easy release panic snaps. During an emergency, do not spend time trying to untie a horse. Use a knife or sharp object to cut the lead rope or halter. Horses can choke to death if not quickly released.

When Driving

Plan your trip in advance and consider possible problems such as time of day to travel, construction or slow traffic areas and other items. Before you leave, double check that everything is properly hooked up and is working - lights, brakes, hitch, and safety chains. Be sure all doors are securely fastened. Drive defensively and look ahead for possible emergencies. Avoid sudden stops and starts.

Teach Your Horse to Trailer

A horse that is comfortable will be less likely to develop bad trailering habits. Training begins at an early age and positive experiences will help teach the horse to load easier. Train the horse with a quiet friend to reduce stress on the horse. Teach the horse to load on both sides.

Summary

Every situation is different, so think about what you can do to make your vehicle and trailer as safe as possible. Plan ahead and think through possible scenarios. If you have questions about your vehicle or trailer, find the answers. Safety should always be your first consideration.

For additional reading, check out these two publications from the University of Tennessee -

Trailering your Horse and Traveling with your Horse.