A Real-Life Carousel - Grazing Management for Horses

Rotational Grazing can be a scary concept for horse owners.  Most people have an image of horses on the wide-open pastures and see rotational grazing paddocks as confinement.  Even though the horses are in smaller pens in a rotational grazing model, they still have plenty of room to run around and enjoy themselves. 

Horses require 2-4 acres per horse for grazing.  Pasture space is often the limiting factor for farms that have grazing animals.  There are 559,000 acres of land used for horse-related purposes which include riding fields/courses, arenas,  trails, and pastures in North Carolina, and more than 306,000 horses.  This means there are 1.8 acres per horse in NC and not all of those acres are used as pasture. We can estimate that only 75% of the 559,000 acres are used to house horses. That leaves 419,000 acres for 306,000 horses or 1.3 acres per horse.  In Short horses in NC on average have 2- 4 times less land than they need for grazing. Most horse farms use continuous grazing, meaning that horses are allowed to graze the pastures all day or feed hay on dry lots.  This leaves no time for the pasture to rest and regrow which leads to poor pasture quality and soil health.  The benefits of rotational grazing include better soil health, pasture quality, decreased hay needs throughout the year, and lower parasite numbers. 

How can horse and pasture owners combat this? Grazing Carousels.  This involves sub-dividing your pastures either with a permanent fence or temporarily using polywire and step-in posts.  Using a temporary setup allows flexibility to increase paddock sizes depending on forage levels and the number of horses grazing at a given time. 

It is ideal to not let horses graze the pasture until the forages have reached an appropriate grazing height, between 5 and 8 inches tall for cool-season grasses such as fescue and 3 to 5 inches for warm-season grasses such as Bermuda.  The goal is to keep the grass in the grazing “sweet spot.” it is important to monitor the forage height and to move the horses off of a paddock before it is grazed below 3 inches.  In addition to preventing pasture-associated laminitis, it  allows maximum regrowth by reducing stress on the plant, which slows growth. This also prevents the plant from going to seed when it reaches its mature height which stops the growth.    

Paddock sizes should be created based on the number of horses  The weather, soil fertility, and pasture conditions determine how long a paddock can be grazed. Horses shouldn’t be in one paddock for more than 7 days, and should ideally be moved every 1-2 days.  This may sound like a lot of extra work, however, taking down and putting up temporary fences can be quick.  Depending on the size of the paddock, the step-in post and polywire can be put up in as little as 5-15 minutes.  This is often less time than it takes to feed hay!

In addition to the soil and forage benefits, rotational grazing can aid in parasite prevention. Overgrazing can lead to increased intestinal parasite load because when grazing low stubbly grass horses are more likely to ingest them.  Grazing on taller grasses can help prevent this, which makes rotational grazing a great additional management strategy for high shedding horses.  

Rotational grazing can help improve soil health.  Better soil leads to more grass and more grass leads to less hay. Using less hay will decrease the amount of input required for horse ownership.  For more information about rotational grazing for horses and pasture plans take a look at this link from Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/how-to-make-rotational-grazing-work-on-your-horse-farm 

To Graze or Not To Graze?

 

Individual horse's needs are different and we have to put that first when choosing the best management.  The purpose of this blog post is to make you think and consider if grazing is the best option based on your horse’s needs and situation.  Here are some questions to consider before grazing:

·         Does your horse need to be on a strict diet based on weight issues, metabolic disease, past health problems, allergies, laminitis, etc.?

·         Is pasture space limited for the number of horses?

·         Are you breeding horses and have KY 31 tall fescue pastures?

If you answered yes to any of the questions above you may want to consider installing an equine dry lot to manage those specific horses/situations.  Let’s take the overweight horse for example.  If your horse is overweight and possibly prone to developing laminitis then it is crucial that you know exactly what the horse is taking in.  Pasture “calories” can change with the time of day, grass species, weather, etc. so the horse could be taking in more than it needs or less depending on several factors.  It may be best to formulate a diet that can be consistent and measured through forage analysis so you know what the horse is taking in each day. 

Dry lots are a great alternative to grazing when more space is needed for exercise but not calorie intake.  Some issues are so complex that it is just hard to make grazing work even with limited turnout, grazing muzzles, and poor forage quality pastures.  Consult with your veterinarian and Livestock Extension Agent to come up with a plan that works for you and your horse today!      

For more on special diets and nutrition issues please visit: https://extension.umn.edu/horse/horse-nutrition#special-diets-or-nutrition-issues-2393465

Responsible Breeding Starts with You: NC State Vet School to Offer FREE Castration Clinics

Foaling season is well underway. Soon decisions will need to be made.  Do I breed back that mare this year?  Will I ever breed that stud colt or should I geld him?  Making responsible breeding decisions affects more than just your farm.  

What is "backyard breeding?"

Backyard breeding is a term used to describe unregulated/unintentional pasture breeding.  It can also refer to the intentional breeding of a mare without a plan or purpose for the resulting foal. The term is NOT intended to imply that horse owners shouldn't breed "in the backyard," as long as they are properly managing pregnancies and offspring.  

Why should backyard breeding be prevented?

According to an article by Extension Foundation, in 2019, the American Horse Council estimated there are 9.2 million horses in the United States, and 1 percent to 1.5 percent of those horses are unwanted (92,000-138,000).  Similar to the feral dog and cat crisis currently facing America, backyard breeding can lead to abandonment, abuse, and neglect of excess horses.

The average lifespan of a horse is 25-30 years, with many living well into their 40s thanks to advancements in equine nutrition, management, and veterinary care.  Steady to rising birth rates combined with declining annual death rates has resulted in an oversaturated horse market. 

In saturated markets; conformation, temperament, and genetics are important factors in successfully selling a horse.  Backyard breeding can result in the continuation of undesirable traits.  In-breeding in an unmanaged herd or excessive line-breeding can result in major conformational defects.  These horses can be difficult to train, promote, and sell.  

How can you help?

Breed with a purpose.  Consider where that foal will end up in 25-30 years.  Make sure that the genetic traits you are passing on will result in good conformation and temperament.  Ensure you're ready to take on the time and financial obligation of raising and training a foal.  

Castrate!  If you own a stallion with conformational defects, a poor temperament, or you don't intend to breed, consider castration.  Castration is the most commonly performed equine surgery and one of the top ways to reduce backyard breeding.  Geldings are often milder mannered, making them easier to handle and more marketable if you decide to sell later. 

NC State Vet School is Offering FREE Castration clinics on March 22nd, March 29th, & April 5th. 

Requirements:

• Halter Broken
• Current Coggins
• Current Tetanus Vaccine
• Both Testicles Descended

Please contact Kate Fiebrandt at keryman@ncsu.edu or 919-515-7459 for more information.  

More Information on Castration 

Resources for Unwanted Horses

Fall Vaccinations

As temperatures begin to cool with the arrival of fall, now is a good time to schedule your horses for fall vaccines.  There are two categories of vaccines - core vaccinations and risk-based vaccinations.  Core vaccines include Eastern & Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE and EWE), Tetanus and West Nile Virus and should be included in vaccination programs regardless of geographical locations. Risk-based vaccines such as Botulism, Potomac Horse Fever, Rhinopneumonitis (EHV-1 and EVH-4), and Equine Influenza should be given based on the risk of disease in a herd population or geographical area.  

In North Carolina, particularly in the eastern part of the state, it is highly recommended all horses regardless of age or travel status receive a fall booster of Eastern/Western Encephalomyelitis, a mosquito-born disease.  On September 16, 2021, a second and  third confirmed case of EEE was confirmed in eastern North Carolina for the year.  EEE has a high mortality rate in unvaccinated horses and treatment options are limited and often ineffective. Other fall boosters to consider include EHV-1 and EHV-4 and Influenza, particularly for horses in boarding operations of travel for shows and trail rides.  

Regardless of your location or the time of the year, any vaccination plan, should be developed with your veterinarian to ensure the best disease coverage is maintained for your horse.  The American Association of Equine Practitioners also has an very informative recommendation chart to study to become better more familiar with your options: https://aaep.org/sites/default/files/2021-05/Adult_Vaccinaton_Chart.pdf

Introduction to Equine Dry Lots

Managing horses on small acreage can be challenging.  One of the challenges often faced is the need for grazing but being limited on space.  Dry lots can serve many purposes but the main purpose is to have somewhere to confine horses when pastures need time to rest and regrow.  It is important to consider grading and footing when thinking about putting in a dry lot.  Without the proper grade and footing layers, the dry lot will not stand the test of time.  

Follow along with Lauren Langley, Livestock Extension Agent as she introduces the concept and benefits of installing an equine dry lot. You will also hear from two horse farm owners that have installed a dry lot and how it has helped them achieve their goals.

For more information about equine dry lots please visit: https://alamance.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Equine-Dry-Lot.pdf?fwd=no or contact your local Extension Agent for advice.

Getting Started with Rotational Grazing

 

Getting started with rotational grazing is as simple as dividing one pasture into two pastures so you can manage grazing.  It is very important this time of year to wait until the pasture is 6-8 inches in height before you allow grazing.  A good rule of thumb is to take half, leave half and to never allow grazing below 3-4 inches.  Once the horses have grazed a pasture down then you rotate them to the next pasture to allow the first pasture to rest and regrow.  You simply repeat this process throughout the growing season and anytime your pasture is not growing, consider feeding hay in a dry lot to preserve your pasture.  Check out the short video and publication below for more information on rotational grazing.

Managing Pastures to Feed Your Horse, NCSU

Is it too early to be thinking about winter feeding?

We are in the middle of hay season and it is never a bad time to plan for winter feeding. Cool-season annuals can help reduce the amount of hay that will need to be fed. Annuals are one season plants and die when it gets too hot or too cold. Winter or cool-season annuals are plants that grow best in cooler conditions and die as the temperatures increase. Ideally, cool-season annuals will be planted by mid-October and you will see the most production in late winter and early spring. Cool-season annuals should be allowed to reach 8 to 15 inches before being grazed and, for optimal regrowth, should not be grazed lower than 3 inches. 

Cereal rye is one of the most common and popular cool-season annuals to plant for grazing. It is the most cold tolerant of all the cool-season annuals.  It is best to use a no-till drill to plant cereal rye, but broadcasting the seed is also an option. 

Annual ryegrass is very easy to establish even when the seed is broadcasted due to the size of the seed. If allowed to go to seed it will reseed itself for next year. Annual ryegrass can persist well into the spring which can hurt your warm-season perennial grass during green-up. 

Triticale is a cross between wheat and cereal rye making it leafy, high yielding, and cold tolerant. Because of its cold tolerance, triticale will be productive in the early and late winter months. Similar to cereal rye, planting with a no-till drill is best but the seed can also be broadcasted.

Oats are a good addition to a cool-season annual mix because they can produce a lot of biomass in a short period of time. They grow best in cool, moist conditions. Spring oats, if planted in the early fall can be utilized for late fall grazing but will most likely get killed if temperatures drop into the teens for a few days in a row. Spring oats can also be planted in the later winter for early spring grazing. Winter oats have better cold tolerance and are usually more productive in the spring than in the fall. Due to the size of oats, it is best to use a no-till drill to plant them. If broadcast, there is a low likelihood of good establishment. 

When considering adding cool-season annuals into your grazing system, it is important to also consider fertilization. It is critical to put down nitrogen at or shortly after planting, 40 to 50 pounds per acre, which will help with tillering (thickness of the stand) and can lead to earlier grazing. Another application of nitrogen should be applied in mid-January to early-February of 25 to 50 pounds, depending on the need for forage at that time. If you decide to put out annual ryegrass another nitrogen application could be warranted in the early spring. Potassium and phosphorus should be applied according to your soil report. It is important to get any recommended lime out 3 to 6 months prior to planting to be sure the soil pH is correct. 

Terminating the cool-season annuals also needs to be considered. If cool-season annuals continue to produce too late into the spring, it will interfere with your warm-season perennial grass as it's breaking dormancy. This can delay green-up and lead to a reduced stand of grass. Most people will make an application of glyphosate when the warm-season perennial grass is still dormant before green-up, usually around early March, at a rate of 16 to 32 ounces per acre. Another option is to allow the cool-season annuals to be grazed below 3 inches which will greatly reduce their ability to regrow. 

Seeds for cool-season annuals can be purchased from multiple different seed companies. Seed can be ordered online. You can also work with your local sales representative or feed store to buy seed. Read the label for the recommended seeding rate and seeding method to get the best results. You can also take a look at the Planting Guide for Forage Crops in NC for recommended planting dates and seeding rates for your area of the state. The Sandhills falls into the Coastal Plains area. If you have more questions about incorporating cool-season annuals into your management system, contact your local livestock Extension agent. 

Getting Ready for Foaling

Mares that are allowed to follow the natural progression of estrus through foaling should start having their foals soon.  The season runs from about May 1 through the summer months.  If you have decided that it would be great to have young horses born on your farm, you may want to take stock of the supplies to have on hand for foaling.

Decide whether a foaling stall or a clean paddock will be used.  In either case, the key word is CLEAN!  If using a stall, be sure that the walls, feeder, and waterer are all cleaned with soapy water and then disinfected.  Ideally, the stall should not be used until the mare is ready to foal.  Add a thick layer of fresh straw bedding just before she starts.

If using a paddock, it does not need to be large.  It should be securely fenced, especially if predators or the neighbor’s dogs are a problem.   Ideally, the paddock should be grass and should not be used until the mare is ready to foal so there aren’t any manure or urine spots.

Here are some things to have handy for when the mare gets ready to have her foal.  This list is not exhaustive, and others may have some items to add, but this covers most scenarios:

-       Stainless steel bucket (clean and disinfected)

-       Access to water (warm water preferred)

-       Towels

-       Soap

-       Gauze

-       OB sleeves

-       Scissors

-       Twine or strong string

-       Enemas – in case the meconium does not pass right away

-       Antibacterial solution for dipping the navel

-       Small container to use for dipping the navel

-       Umbilical clamp or rubber bands

-       Disposable latex gloves (good luck finding any right now!)

-       Obstetric lubricant

-       Blankets

-       Flashlight or headlamp with fresh batteries

-       Cell phone

-       Phone numbers for the veterinarian or a neighbor with experience with foaling

-       Tail wrap or gauze

Be sure to have these items ready before the mare starts to get restless, the udder starts filling out, the muscles over the tail heal and around the croup start relaxing, and/or a mucus discharge is noticed.  Other signs of impending parturition include watching the calendar to see when 340+ days have passed since breeding, milk calcium levels reaching 200 parts per million – mares usually foal within 48 hours of reaching this level - or waxing of the teats.  Again, when this is noticed, parturition will usually occur within 48 hours.

Being prepared will help reduce the potential of problems when the foal decides it is ready to see the world.  As was mentioned above, the operative word is clean to reduce the chance of bacterial infection.  The cleaner the stall, paddock, and checklist items are, the better chance the newborn and the mare have to avoid unnecessary infections or stress. 

Some of the items on the list may not be needed, but if a situation occurs and one or more of those items are needed, there won’t be a delay while the item is found, and cleaned.  Time is critical during foaling and delays add to the stress that is already pretty high for the mare and her foal. Being prepared and avoiding problems help insure that the foal is healthy and the mare recovers quickly.  There are few sights more picturesque than a mare with her newborn foal in a clean paddock. Being prepared helps put that picture together. 

Health Checks

February is a good month to take care of some health essentials for horses.  With the trail ride and horse show season fast approaching, it is a good time to have a Coggins test done.  The Coggins test checks a horse for the presence of Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA) antibodies.  Of course, we want those tests to come back negative, and 99% of them do.  Those test results are important to anyone who will be taking their horses off the farm to locations where horses form several areas will be comingled – places like horse shows and trail rides. Those negative Coggins papers must accompany each horse wherever they go.  As mentioned, February is a great time to get the Coggins test done and get the results back before transporting horses.  The Coggins papers are good for one year, and the process must be repeated.

Some counties hold Coggins Clinics in cooperation with a veterinarian to help folks with just a few horses get the test done.  Check with your county’s NC Cooperative Extension center to see if any of these clinics are scheduled.  There will be two of these held in Granville County this year.  One is on Saturday, February 15, and the second will be on Friday afternoon, February 21.  Call the Granville County NC Cooperative Extension Center at (919) 603-1350 for details.

These clinics also offer vaccinations for the common equine diseases.  The ones most often made available in this area include eastern/western equine encephalitis + tetanus, rabies, West Nile Virus, flu + rhinovirus, and strangles. Check with your veterinarian to make sure that any additional vaccination needs are met as the core vaccines vary across the country.

While at a clinic, or when the veterinarian visits your farm, it is a good idea to get a routine health check for the horse. Most veterinarians will include this if done in conjunction with a Coggins test or when providing vaccinations.  They will also check teeth and make sure that there are no issues there.  If teeth need to be floated, that will likely be a separate appointment at the veterinarian’s clinic.

One last item – be sure to keep a check on your horse’s hooves.  We are experiencing a long period of mud, so be sure to check feet frequently.  Keep them cleaned out and make sure that no infections develop. Common things to check for are obsesses, thrush, fungus growing on the lower legs, heat in the hoof wall or sole, general lameness, or sensitivity.  If some work needs to be done on the feet, be sure to call the farrier sooner than later.  Before riding the trail or entering the ring at a horse show, be sure that the feet are good to go.

Winter Management Tips for Horse Owners

Now that it is officially winter, there are a few things to keep in mind to make sure that our horses are well cared for during these colder months.  Some of the items to keep on the winter management checklist include adequate water, good nutrition, and protection from disease.

Making sure there is adequate water for horses during the winter is an important factor in preventing impaction colic.  During the winter months, horses may not drink enough water for a number of reasons. One of those reason is that the water they drink freezes, so they can’t possibly get a drink when they want it.  There is a fairly simple solution to this, and that is to break the ice whenever necessary, or at least twice a day if you happen to live north of North Carolina.  We usually don’t have extended periods of weather cold enough to cause water to freeze solid for extended periods, but it can happen over several days now and then.  During those times, be sure to supply water or to break the ice in the water trough.  If the water fountain freezes up, supply water in a bucket or trough until the drinking fountain can be thawed.  Stock tank deicers can be used to keep water in the trough or stock tank warm enough to prevent freezing over.  These can save a lot of time breaking ice!  Frost-free waterers also save a lot of worry and time.  Remember, adequate water during the winter months reduces the risk of your horse developing impaction colic.

The second part of the management equation is to make sure the horses have adequate nutrition.  Eating and digesting forages helps to produce heat, which helps keep the horse warm. Horses need access to good quality grass hay that will meet nutritional needs, yet won’t supply too many calories.  Supply about 2% of the horse’s body weight of forage per day.  For a 1,000-pound horse, that means supplying 20 pounds of forage per day.  Some horses may need some additional feed, depending on age, exercise level, body condition, type of forage available, or frequency of feeding.  In those cases, supply concentrates at .5% of body weight, or about 5 pounds of grain per day.  Split that up into 2 feedings to avoid overfeeding.

The third part of this article is to make sure that horses are kept healthy.  Vaccinate horses on schedule for the common diseases found in your area.  Consult with your veterinarian to stay up to date on which diseases are prevalent, which vaccines to use, and to develop a year-round horse health schedule that includes giving vaccinations at the right times of the year.  Also, remember there are factors that can reduce a horse’s immune function, making them more susceptible to disease.   One of the main factors is to make sure there is adequate shelter during high winds and from precipitation.  Most of the time, a horse only needs a windbreak now and then, but the ability to withstand weather can be altered by the quality of the hair coat or extended rainy, icy, and windy conditions.  If conditions are bad, or the horse is shorn for showing, a nice, dry stall can make the difference between a healthy horse and treating an illness.

Managing Unwanted Behaviors and Vices in Horses

Horses can develop unwanted behaviors and vices. The University of Minnesota Extension has done a great job of describing how to identify, prevent, manage and treat many of these behaviors. Please follow the link below. Contact your local Extension agent if you have any questions.

Managing Unwanted Behaviors and Vices

Fall Horse Care Tips

As temperatures start to get cooler in the fall (after having 95+ temperatures on October 1 it’s about time!), there are several items on the fall to-do list for horse owners to make sure horse health stays good.  Here are a few things to consider for fall health care and management.

First, most horse owners like to take care of internal parasites in the fall and going into winter.  Ashley Robbins did a great job in explaining the importance of fecal egg counts on this blog last week (Ever Heard of a Fecal Egg Count?, posted October 14, 2019), so I‘m not going into detail here about controlling internal parasites.  However, counting parasite eggs is not a once and done thing.  Conduct a count periodically to monitor the level of internal parasites and treat accordingly.  Remember as grass gets shorter in the fall, horses may graze nearer to manure piles in the pasture and get some parasite eggs that they may have avoided when grass was more plentiful.  The number of parasite eggs available may be higher in the summer months, but as grass supplies dwindle in fall pastures, parasite eggs may become more concentrated and easier to pick up while grazing.  

Horse owners should pay attention to changing grazing conditions in the fall.  As grass growth slows with lower temperatures, look for other plants that my still be green, but could be harmful if grazed.  This not only includes perilla mint and members of the nightshade family, but can be such things as Red Maple leaves that make be on a fallen branch.  Wilted red maple leaves or wild cherry leaves can be deadly to horses and other livestock.  Another concern is to watch for concentrations of acorns in the pasture.  Many horses can eat acorns and have no problems, but some horses can develop colic or laminitis, have diarrhea, or have loss of appetite from eating too many acorns.

With the drought conditions we have had until recently, grass has been short, and the hay supply is short going into the winter.  This would be a good time for horse owners to make sure they have enough supplemental forage going into the feeding season.  When purchasing hay, get a forage analysis done so plans can be made to meet the nutritional needs of the various classes of horses on the farm.

Remember that exercise levels tend to be reduced during the winter months, so make any needed adjustments to the ration.  Less work or exercise means less energy and protein will be needed.  Feeding the summer ration, which is when most horses are most active, during the winter can lead to a fat horse by spring!  If there are pregnant mares on the farm, pay attention to their nutritional needs.  The later into gestation, the higher the nutritional needs as the foal develops.  Pay attention to both the nutrients supplied by the ration and to the mineral needs during gestation.

Make plans for annual vaccinations and to get any boosters needed.  Consult your veterinarian to make sure that horses are protected against the major disease threats in your area, including rabies.  Many horse owners will get the annual vaccinations at the time that horses are tested for Equine Infectious Anemia.  Knowing that the Coggin’s test is due can serve as a good reminder that annual vaccinations are also due.  However, some vaccines require a booster in order to be most effective.  Again, talk to your veterinarian and set up a vaccination schedule that includes giving any needed boosters.

Now is also a good time to take care of the miscellaneous chores that tend to get put off.   Take care of any dental needs that may have been noted but delayed for one reason or another.  Also, inspect barns and shelters to make sure they are ready for winter weather.  While most horses don’t require a lot of shelter, having a place to get out of wind and weather can help keep horses healthy by reducing weather related stress.  Check fences and make any needed repairs.  Check the barn and stall doors to make sure they are in good working order.  Oiling the hinges now and then makes them last longer and makes it easier to swing open and shut.

Make a chore list to be sure that fall health care is taken care of.  Note any issues that may need follow at t later date, and be sure to talk to the veterinarian about any health-related issues.  This will prepare the horses for colder weather, which will be with us in the near future.

Managing the Overweight Horse

Across the horse industry, horse obesity continues to be a major health concern.  Overweight horses or “easy keepers” as they are so often called are at risk for increased health problems, poor performance, and overheating.  So, how do you know if your horse is overweight?  Several methods are available to determine if your horse is overweight including body condition scoring.

Body Condition Scoring

Body Condition Scoring (BCS) looks at the fat deposit under the horse’s skin in six areas: neck, withers, behind the shoulder, along the back, rib area, and tail head.  This is accomplished using the Henneke scale (1=very thin; 9=obese) where a score 4 to 6 is ideal.  For more information on body condition scoring, watch this video.

PC: Iowa State University

Click here to view the Henneke Nine-Point BCS Scale.

There are also several apps available that can help you with body condition scoring your horse.

Health Problems

If your horse is overweight, the horse is more at risk to develop a disease or disorder such as: laminitis, equine metabolic syndrome, insulin dysfunction, and elevated levels of the stress hormone cortisol.   Not only is an overweight horse at risk to develop health problems, its performance declines as well.  Poor performance may come from weakened hoof walls, osteoarthritis, and increased muscle strain.  Lastly, overweight horses can become overheated due to losing control over their body temperature.  Horses can then quickly become dehydrated.    

Diet & Exercise

Making a few adjustments to an overweight horse’s diet and exercise is the key to weight loss.  Weight loss is important but only if done correctly and slowly over time.  The horse’s total feed (forage and grain) intake needs to be monitored as well as exercise.  

Slow-feed hay net in use on a dry lot.

Here are few tips when feeding an overweight horse:

• Feed mature hay- this not only reduces caloric intake but slows down rate of intake as well.  Think of this as “rice cakes” for the horse, it will keep the horse busy eating but does not have as many calories.  Always use a hay analysis to determine hay quality.  This can be done through your local Extension office.
• Slow down feed intake- this can be done with a grazing muzzle, slow-feed hay net, specially designed grain feeders, feed obstacles, or feeding order (feed hay before grain).

In general, most overweight horses are usually unfit horses.  By increasing their exercise, the horse will burn up or use fat in the body, resulting in weight loss.  Make sure to start exercise slowly and increase over time.

For more information about managing overweight horses please visit the University of Minnesota Extension website by clicking here.

Reference: University of Minnesota Extension

Buying a Horse? Consider a Pre-Purchase Exam

There are all sorts of deals made to buy and sell horses, ranging from barter to auctions to direct sales.  Prices range from almost nothing to millions of dollars, depending on the breeding and purpose for having the horse.  When buying a horse, it is a good idea to have examined by a qualified veterinarian before closing the deal and becoming the owner of both the horse and any problems that may be associated with it.  Believe it or not, there are some sellers in the world who don’t disclose any health issues or physical problems.  This puts buying a horse in the category of buyer beware, unless the seller and the horse are well known.

In any case, a pre-purchase exam is a good idea.   Investing in a horse includes time, money, and emotion, so we want the overall investment to be successful whether the horse is a family pet, a breeding animal, a show horse, or an athlete.  Sure, the exam will cost a bit, adding to the overall cost of the purchase, but a little invested in an exam can help a buyer avoid potential problems.

Purchase exams can vary, depending on the purpose for owning the horse.  Because horses are used in so many different ways, choosing a veterinarian to conduct the purchase exam is important.  For instance, the exam criteria for a race horse can be very different from an exam for a family horse that is ridden occasionally.  Choose a veterinarian that is familiar with the expected use of the horse and the breed characteristics. Clear communications are critical when deciding on the exam criteria.  Communicate the expectations and primary uses for the horse in both the short and long term. 

Ask the veterinarian to explain the procedures to be included in the exam and why they were chosen.  Know the cost up front so there are no financial surprises once the exam is completed. Be present during the exam and invite the seller to be present also, but discuss the findings in private with the veterinarian.  Be sure to ask questions!

The veterinarian’s job is to make the examination and present any findings.  This is not a pass/fail process, but an information gathering process to help make a more informed decision about the purchase.  Both the buyer and seller can benefit from a pre-purchase exam.  Objective health-related information is valuable in making management decisions, including whether or not to go ahead and buy the horse.

The American Association of Equine Practitioners has more information on this topic, and other information on horse health and management.

Do Fly Predators Fit In Your Fly Control Program?

Stable Flies and House Flies are two of the more common species of flies that bother horses during the warm months, especially around barns and stables.  Since it is April 1 (no fooling!), warmer temperatures are almost here, so it is time to consider what the fly control program will consist of during the rest or 2019.

Most horse owners and barn managers incorporate several fly control tools into the program to achieve the best results.  One method is mechanical control – removing manure, old bedding, and other fly breeding areas from the stable or barn.  Often this material can be composted, which will destroy any eggs and larvae during the process of turning this material into a pretty good soil amendment for gardens and landscapes.  Another is using insecticides to eliminate flies in concentrated areas, barriers are used to prevent flies from landing on the horse, especially around the face and eyes. Other tools include feed-through products for larvae control, and fly traps.

One tool that doesn’t get much discussion is the use of fly predators on horse farms.  These predators are tiny wasps that do not sting people or animals, but instead search for fly larvae to lay their eggs in. The predator larvae hatch inside the fly larvae and feed on it, preventing that fly larvae from becoming and adult fly. This helps to break up the fly life cycle and reduces the fly pressure around the horses.

There are several species of fly predators, and they are fairly specific to the type of fly they will help control.  They work best on either house flies or stable flies.  Some of the more commonly found species of fly predators and the type of flies they control are:

·     Spalangia nigroaenea - attacks both house and stable flies. 

·     Muscidifurax raptor– attacks house flies.

·     Muscidifurax zararaptor – attacks house flies.

·     Spalangia nigra – attacks stable flies.

·     Spalangia cameroni – attacks stable flies

·     Spalangia endius  - attacks stable flies

There are other species that will attack horn flies and face flies, but house and stable flies tend to be the ones found in stables and barns where the fly predators are more effective and cost efficient.

To use the fly predators in a fly control program, identify “hot spots” around the barn, and distribute the predators near those according to recommended populations of predators for the number of horses present.  The fly predators will travel up to 80 yards to find manure that contains fly larvae to parasitize. However, the fly predator population will not keep up with fly numbers throughout the fly season, so monthly releases of the fly predators through the control season are recommended.

Take care when using fly control insecticides if using the fly predators.  Don’t spray near the areas where fly predators have been released as the insecticide will also kill the fly predators.  If using a feed-through fly control product, the fly predators may be better used around concentrations of grass clippings, old bedding, or old round bales left on the ground. House and stable flies will lay eggs in these materials, so if they are not handled properly, these materials can be a breeding ground for flies.

There is no magic treatment that will totally eliminate the fly problem, which is why an integrated control program using different methods is recommended.  Sanitation, barriers, mechanical controls, insecticides, and biological controls can be combined to provide wide-spectrum fly control. Perhaps fly predators can be an effective tool to help in the fly control battles this summer.