Field Day! Pasture Management for Horse Owners

Register at https://horsepastures.eventbrite.com

Location: Carolina Horse Park, 2814 Montrose Rd. Raeford, NC 28376

This hands-on field day will cover rotational grazing, pasture, and hay management.

Amazing Grazing will be there to discuss the benefits of one-wire temporary fencing.

We will discuss soil reports, fertilization, and weeds during pasture management.

Hay management will cover the nutritional values of different types of hay, understanding of
forage analysis,

and how hay management can improve your pasture health.

Spring and Soil Amendments

It is past April 1, so that means soil testing has returned to NO CHARGE with the NCDA lab.  Like, so many other things, the cost of lime and fertilizer has increased quite a bit over the past couple of years.  It is natural for pasture managers to look for ways to save money.  Soil sampling and following the recommendations for soil amendments is one of the most cost-effective tools we have for pasture management.  If you have questions about what all those numbers mean when you receive that soil report, reach out to your Cooperative Extension agent.  

There are a few products out there now to claim to have a liming function but at a much cheaper price than traditional ag lime.  Again, it is only natural to look into these products due to the proposed cost savings.  However, I caution you. As is the case many times, if it seems too good to be true, it probably is.  Here is a link to an article written by Dr. Gary Bates from the University of Tennessee addressing the science behind lime.  https://utbeef.tennessee.edu/forage-management-its-just-chemistry/

I'll also share a story concerning someone trying to save some money on pasture fertilization.  A farm store had a "mix" of fertilizer in their storage area.  It was a combination of fertilizers that were cleaned out of their spreader truck.  There was no analysis on this fertilizer but it was cheap because they needed it out of their way.  Someone bought it and spread it on their pastures.  Costs included the reduced price of the fertilizer plus time and fuel to spread it.  A few weeks passed and the pastures did not look very green and did not seem to be growing well in spite of decent rainfall.  This producer is most likely going to have to go back and spread more fertilizer, particularly nitrogen, to get decent production.  So, in the end, how much money was really saved?

Fertilizer and lime are expensive.  Following the soil report recommendations so that you are applying what is needed and not over-applying some nutrients and/or under-applying others is your most cost effective means to pasture management when it come to nutrients.  

Purchasing a New Horse

Online

Who hasn't gone browsing on Equine Now to see what's out there every now and then?  Buying a horse is not quite as simple as "add to cart," but online browsing is a great place to start.  Searching online marketplaces or watching online auctions gives you an idea of what people are asking for the type of horse you're searching for.  You'll start to pick up on what is a reasonable price and what seems high or low.  Bargain shopping can be a dangerous game when buying a horse.  Low price can indicate underlying health or soundness issues.  When searching online, always schedule an appointment to see the horse in-person if possible.  Though there are options to purchase site-unseen and have them delivered.    

Off-the-Farm

The greatest advantage in buying a horse directly off-the-farm is that you can have the opportunity to ride the horse before you buy it.  By making an appointment to purchase a horse from the owner you will be able to see the horse in its home environment and ask lots of questions.  You also have the option for a vet to perform a pre-purchase exam. The downside to this purchasing option is that you usually pay more. 

In-Person Auction

Auctions have a bad reputation among some horsemen, but they are a reasonable option for purchasing a horse as long as you avoid the pitfalls.  Arrive early so that you can see the horses ride in the warmup pen and ask lots of questions.  You shouldn't bid on a horse if the first time you laid eyes on it was entering the sale pen.  You probably won't be able to ride a horse, but that's not because the seller is trying to hide anything.  Auctions can be a stressful environment for horses and letting lots of people the horse doesn't know take a ride won't help them relax.  If you want to see the horse perform a certain maneuver like backing or taking a lead in each direction, ask the rider to show it to you in the warmup area.  Auctions can be a way to purchase a horse at a cheaper price, but not always.  Make sure you know what you are willing to spend before you start bidding and stop when you hit your threshold.  

Rescue

There are so many horses in need of a home.  Retired race horses or cart horses.  Abandoned or neglected horses, ponies, and donkeys.  If you are interested in pursing a rescue horse for the right reasons, it can be very rewarding.  I would not suggest rescue if you are trying to purchase a horse at a cheaper price.  Often rescues are very affordable to purchase, but they come with hidden fees.  You may need to pay more for a special diet so they can recover properly.  There will be veterinary expense and possible hidden medical issues that didn't present at time of purchase.  If you are unwilling to spend the money needed to properly rehabilitate a rescue horse, one of the other purchase options may be a better fit for you.  

Tips for Success

Regardless of the purchase method the following are always best practices.

1. Have a veterinarian do a pre-purchase exam
2. See the horse in person riding at the walk, trot, and canter both directions, and backing
3. Don't buy a young horse for a young or inexperienced rider
4. Don't bargain shop 
5. Ask Questions!

Best of luck finding your new trail or show companion.  

Rodent Control on Farms

By Becky Spearman, Bladen County Livestock Agent and Margaret Ross, Area Specialized Poultry Agent

Rodents can be an issue on horse farms in North Carolina.  They can spread disease, cause feed losses and contamination, and cause structural damage to the barns and equipment.  In the barns, they gnaw on electrical wiring exposing live wires and causing a fire risk, destroy insulation and ventilation systems. 

Rodents are prolific breeders and can reproduce at amazing rates.  The three rodents of concern in our area are the House mouse, Norway rat and the Roof rat.  They all have some differences in behavior which can be used in determining control methods. 

Characteristics of Rodents:

● Behavior - rodents have a home range they spend most of their time in.  Mice live in smaller territories ranging 10-25 feet.  Rats range around 100 feet and live in colonies.  

● Eating Habits - Rats usually eat their entire meal for the day at one time, usually at night while mice eat small amounts of food several times during the day.  Rats are more wary of new objects, so it may take longer for success with bait stations and traps to be effective.  It may take at least 5 days for the rat to accept the new object while a mouse may accept it overnight.  Rats are also pickier eaters and like fresh food while mice are more curious and more willing to try new foods.

● Reproduction rates - rats can produce 10-12 litters per year with an average size of 6-8 babies.  A single rat pair can produce 15,000 descendants in only one year!  The reproduction rate for mice is similar with 5-10 litters per year with 5-6 babies. 

● Front incisor teeth on rats - grow on average 5 inches per year, so rodents gnaw constantly to keep them worn down.

● Rats can climb both horizontally and vertically.  They jump vertically as much as 36” from a flat surface and 48” horizontally from a flat surface.  They can swim as far as ½ mile in open water and travel against sewer lines in substantial water currents.  And this surprised me - they can drop 50 feet without being killed or seriously injured!!

Sanitation practices: minimize and clean up feed spills, mow around buildings/houses to decrease cover, throw away garbage frequently, and not stack lumber and other construction debris near buildings. Exclusion is a lot harder in the barn area themselves, but focus exclusion practices in offices, storage buildings and feed rooms.  Exclusion includes sealing cracks or openings in the building.  Leave no holes larger than ¼ inch.  Doors, windows and screens should fit tightly. 

Population control: trapping can be an effective way to control rodents.  Trapping rats may require more skill and labor.  The advantages to trapping is that it doesn’t rely on potentially hazardous rodenticides, success is visible, it allows disposal of carcasses, and can eliminate odors.  There are several available traps which can be single trap or multiple-capture live traps.

Rodenticides (toxic baits):  baits are formulated with an attractant and a rodenticide in them.  Some baits may be restricted use pesticides (RUP) and require a pesticide license.  Different types  of rodenticides work in different ways to kill the rodents.  There are situations where each type may be a better choice.

Bait stations with rodenticides and placement is critical.  Using a bait station targets the rodents and allows them to feel secure while eating the bait.  It also can help keep out other animals on the farm.  Proper placement and maintenance is critical - keep in mind the home range of the rodents so you’ll ensure you have plenty of bait stations.  Always wear gloves when putting out bait for your protection as well, as rodents will avoid the bait stations if they smell human scent on them. Bait stations can be purchased or made on your own.

Rodenticide formulations come as bar baits, concentrates, tracking powders, or pellets. The bar baits contain a rodenticide, a grain product, as well as a binder. The binder allows the bait to hold up during moisture events. These products are typically found as chunks or bars. It’s extremely important to read and follow the label instructions because all types of rodenticides are poisonous and can put other animals at risk that are not the target animal of the rodenticide. Be sure to read the manufacturer information and warnings. 

To be effective in implementing a rodent control program, you must be monitoring and evaluating the program constantly. There are several reasons rodent programs may not be successful: not enough bait stations, the control area is too small, not enough exposure time to the bait, easy access to other food supplies, not stocking bait stations on a regular basis, choosing the wrong bait, moldy or old baits, and not rotating baits. It’s very important to properly handle rodenticides. 

Predators: cats and even dogs can be a method of control, but in reality rodents may be attracted by the food left for the cats or dogs.  They can catch some mice, but may not be able to keep up with them as they multiply quickly.

Prevention and good sanitation practices are critical to keep rodents out because it is hard to eradicate them if you have a problem.  Knowing rodent behavior can help you determine what control methods may work best for you.  If you have any questions about rodent control on your farm, contact your local Cooperative Extension office. 

Resources:

University of California - IPM - Rats

Rodent control in the poultry house - Oklahoma State University

Texas A & M IPM action plan for rodents

Controlling Rodents on the Poultry Farm - Mississippi State

Foaling Checklist

 

Spring is full of life! The grass is starting to grow, pollen is everywhere, and foals are on the way.  Having foals is exciting but can quickly become scary.  The best way to prevent an emergency is to be prepared.  Here is a checklist to help makes sure you are prepared. 

1. Phone Number:  Your emergency and normal veterinarians are saved in your cell phone and posted in the barn. 

1. Make sure that your veterinarians know the relative due date of your mare. Do not hesitate to contact them if you suspect something is not going right. 

2. Thermometer: the key to telling if the temperature of foal/ mare is normal, or if an infection is present 

1. The normal temperature

1. Mare: 99-100 F (37-38 C)

2. Foal: 100-102 F (37.7-38.8 C)

3. Stethoscope: helps indicate heart and respiratory rates

1. Normal Heart Rate

1. Mare: 28-40 bpm

2. Foal: 80-120 bpm

2. Normal Respiration Rate

1. Mare: 8-16 bpm

2. Foal: 20-40 bpm

4. Scissors

5. Flashlight: 

1. Charged batteries

6. Tail wrap:

1.  keep the tail out of the way

7. Obstetrical (OB)  Gloves: 

1. check position or pull (if no progress)

8. OB Lube: 

1. This is essential before checking the position or pulling 

2. KY, J Lube, Livestock Lube

9. Exam Gloves: 

1. handling placenta, 

2. cleaning mare or foal

10. Liquid Soap

11. Umbilical tape or clamp

12. Umbilical cord disinfectant: 

1. Iodine or diluted chlorhexidine 

13. Towels

14. Colostrum

1. Frozen 

2. Replacer

1. Make sure that you get colostrum replacers and not supplements. 

Adapted from  “Tri-state Livestock News: Foaling Checklist”

Time for Spring Vaccinations

 

                                    photo credit: thehorse.com

Has your horse been vaccinated this spring?  Everyone has their own system and situation, but we all should meet the "must dos" on our vaccine list, preferably soon, before insect season.   First and foremost, make sure you consult your veterinarian.  Variations in a vaccination plan may be due to your horses age and exposure to other horses, and travel plans.  According to the American Association of Equine Practitioners, the following *core disease vaccinations are those we ALL should make sure our horses are protected from. These recommendations are if the horse has been previously vaccinated, and is greater than one year of age.     

•  Tetanus - Annual vaccination with tetanus toxoid, with a booster if a penetrating   (puncture) injury occurs 
•  Rabies - Annual vaccination
•  Encephalomyelitis (Eastern and Western) - EEE and WEE should be vaccinated for each spring and fall. With the mild winters we generally have (especially this year) this is critical to protection from the virus carried often by mosquitos
•  West Nile Virus - Similar to Encephalomyelitis, West Nile vaccination is also needed each spring and fall

*Core disease vaccines are named such because they protect against diseases that are endemic to a region, virulent or highly contagious, pose a risk of severe or fatal disease, have potential public health significance, and/or are required by law.  Core vaccines have clearly demonstrable efficacy and safety, with a high enough level of patient benefit and low enough level of risk to justify their use in all equids.

The next vaccines are risk based, meaning that they are selected based on assessment of risk performed by, or in consultation with, a licensed veterinarian. Needs vary between individuals, populations, and/or geographic regions.  

• ·Equine Herpesvirus (EHV)
•  Equine Influenza
•  Equine Viral Areteritis (EVA)
•  Potomac Horse Fever
•  Strangles
•  Anthrax
•  Botulism
•  Leptospirosis
•  Rotavirus

There are many factors which influence the right vaccination protocol for your horse.  Stages of life, such as age, reproductive status, activity and exposure to other horses are all considerations.  Always make sure to consult your veterinarian for the best vaccination protocol to ensure the well-being of your horse. 

Information source for this article: American Association of Equine Practitioners Guidelines 2020. Visit aaep.org/guidelines/vaccination-guidelines for more details and updates.

Buttercup Weed Management

Last year many people were dismayed to find a sea of yellow flowers in their pasture when spring rolled around. While buttercups can be pretty to look at and a sure sign that spring has arrived, their toxicity to livestock and their invasive nature make them a very unwanted sight in a pasture. 

Buttercup is a short-lived perennial weed that behaves more like a winter annual. It begins to germinate in the fall and grows into the spring when the weather warms up. It has characteristic shiny, bright yellow flowers with five petals. This weed thrives in pastures where there is little competition, such as overgrazed areas or bare patches.

All parts of the plant are toxic to livestock and can cause blistering in the mouth and internal parts of the digestive tract, diarrhea, colic, and even death in extreme cases. However, buttercup is bitter and most horses will refuse to eat it as long as other forage options are available. The toxin that causes these issues will not be active when the buttercup is dried, so it is not a concern in hay.

Since buttercup starts growth in the fall, it is important to have a thick stand of grass that will prevent the new seedlings from taking root. Proper fertilization and grazing management in the fall will help encourage this thick stand. Avoid overgrazing throughout the winter to prevent creating an environment that is favorable to buttercup growth.

When buttercups are present, mowing in the spring can help reduce flowers and therefore seed development. But mowing alone will not eliminate the plant and the problems it poses.

Chemical control is a very effective strategy, but it is important to utilize this method early. Once it flowers, the plant is too mature for herbicides to have effective control. The ideal time to apply herbicides is late February through early March while the weeds are still small. 2,4-D is an effective herbicide that provides good control when applied early. Other effective herbicide options include aminopyralids (eg. GrazonNext), 2,4-D + dicamba (eg. WeedMaster), triclopyr (eg. Crossbow), or metsulfuron (eg. Cimmaron). Picking the right product can depend on other weeds you need to control at the same time. 

If your pasture had issues with buttercup last year, you can count on them being back again this year. Start scouting early and be prepared to utilize control methods.  If infestations have been heavy in the past, do not expect this problem to go away after one herbicide application. It can take several years of timely chemical control to get the buttercup under control. Always encourage a thick healthy stand of grass to help reduce weed pressure.  

Breeding Considerations

Many of us have that mare we believe is special and would like to breed her, but there are many things to consider before starting your journey. 

1. Does my mare possess the desired traits that should be passed on to her offspring?

Is the mare conformationally correct and does she have a good attitude and disposition?  These are certainly hereditary traits she will pass on, and those traits should also be considered in the stallion you select to breed her to! 

2. Why am I breeding my mare?

Owning a horse is a long-term commitment, and having a foal requires even more commitment.  We all love cute foals, but with them comes increased care and cost.  A pregnant mare requires increased nutrition, particularly the last three months of her pregnancy, and while she is nursing her foal.  Are you prepared to work with your foal to ensure they are handled and cared for?  Do you have a plan for training them for their future intended purpose?

3.  Is my mare healthy enough to conceive a foal and carry it safely to term? 

A mare should be in prime condition before breeding time arrives.  Mares should be a body condition score between 5 and 6, carrying a little extra condition but not too heavy.  Is she current on her vaccination on a sound parasite management program? Has she had a recent dental exam and are her hooves in good shape? Are there any underlying signs of disease such as Cushings Disease or thyroid imbalance? 

2.  Has my mare undergone a reproductive exam by a veterinarian?

Not all mares are created equal.  A breeding soundness exam will ensure all reproductive parts are in good working order.  A mare with poor perineal conformation (the vulvar lips, vaginal area, and cervix) will be more susceptible to infections caused by contamination from external particles in the uterus.  A uterine culture can rule out any infections that may need treatment pre-breeding and stitching the vulvar lips, called a Caslicks, can prevent further infections post-breeding and stitches are removed pre-foaling. Ultrasound exam of the uterus can also determine the health of the uterus. 

3.  Do I have a plan to monitor when my mare needs to be bred?

As with people, knowing the prime conception window is important.  Mares cycle seasonally when days or longer, or when they are exposed to longer periods of artificial light.  After they begin to cycle, mares come into heat about every 21 days and their heat period lasts five to seven days, with ovulation happening the last 24-48 hours of the heat period. Breeding should occur as close as possible to ovulation, so knowing exactly how a mare's heat cycle occurs plays an important in planning when she needs to be bred. On many breeding operations, an intact male horse known as a teaser is a valuable tool to help predict when the mare is closest to ovulation.

4.  Will I breed my mare through artificial insemination (AI) or live cover?

Either method is a viable means of ensuring pregnancy, unless you are seeking to have a registered Thoroughbred as they accept live cover only.  Both methods take planning however, whether it be to arrange transportation to a stallion farm for live cover based on their requirements, or purchasing semen for AI and working with a veterinarian for insemination at the proper time. 

There is nothing more exciting that witnessing a foaling, especially when a healthy
foal arrives from a healthy mare. Considering the above factors will help you achieve success!  

Forage Alternatives

 

As we enter the dog days of winter, it is not uncommon for our hay stores to run low. For some, this poses a challenge if there is not a sufficient supply of quality hay for sale nearby. One might have to resort to a forage alternative, to make it through to spring when the grass again becomes prevalent.

There are a variety of forage alternatives available, and the best option will depend on a variety of issues, including the body condition of the horse, his/her physiological state, the quality of forage alternatives accessible in the area and, of course, cost. These forage replacements can help stretch hay supplies through the winter months, or they can even help in summer months when grazing is limited during times of severe drought. Some forage options available commercially are chopped hay, hay cubes/pellets, beet pulp, haylage, etc.

Chopped hay also called “chaff,” is becoming more common in equine diets. It can provide a mix of digestible and indigestible fiber to maintain proper function of the digestive tract. Chaff is also sometimes mixed with molasses to enhance palatability and sometimes has added nutrients to provide for a more complete ration.

Forage cubes/pellets simply are hay that has been chopped coarsely (or finely) and formed (with the addition of a binder) into scoopable, baggable pieces. They’re more convenient to move around than baled hay, and they have the advantage of a guaranteed nutritional content that is posted on the bag so you know exactly what you’re delivering in terms of essential nutrients. Hay cubes and pellets come in a variety of sizes and textures, from soft and crumbly to quite hard, and they can be all-alfalfa hay, all-grass hay, a mixture of the two, or even hay mixed with other products.

Beet pulp is one of the most commonly fed forage alternatives. The digestible energy and fiber content generally falls between that of grains and hays, the protein content is similar to a decent quality grass hay, and it is relatively high in calcium. You can feed it to meet up to 50% of the forage content of the diet, ideally limiting it to 10 pounds, on a dry weight basis per day. Beet pulp is usually fed soaked to mitigate any issues associated with choke.


Soybean hulls are high in fiber and are one of the most digestible hull types. They can be used to replace about 50% of the forage. They are rather lightweight and tend to blow away if not either pelleted or mixed with a binder, such as molasses. The biggest drawback to feeding hulls is they are usually dusty, have very low vitamin content and result in less overall chew time which can minimize the amount of bicarbonate produced that acts as a temporary stomach buffer.

Haylage is more commonly fed in European countries, although in recent years it has gained some popularity in the United States. Haylage is a form of chopped hay that is harvested and baled with a moisture content higher than traditional hay. It is sealed in plastic, allowing for some fermentation before being fed.

Advantages of haylage are that it is relatively dust-free because of its higher moisture content, and it is also slightly higher in nutritive value. The biggest concern with haylage is the development of mold and mycotoxins if it is not stored properly. It will mold quickly–usually within four to five days–once the package is opened and the forage is exposed to air.

Keep in mind that in order to maintain proper digestive health, roughages/forages must make up a minimum of 50% of a horse’s diet on a dry weight basis, or about 1 pound per 100 pounds of body weight. Also, make any changes to the horse’s diet gradually. Feed horses on the lower-fiber alternatives more frequently (four times a day) to satisfy the basic grazing requirements and to reduce boredom or less than ideal behaviors.

Wet Winter Skin Infections: "Scratches & Rain Rot"

It's been a warm, wet, winter this year in most of North Carolina.  These are the kind of winters that cause mud in the pastures and on the trails.  Along with that mud comes fungal/bacterial infections to watch out for in your horse. 

Scratches

"Scratches," a common skin condition in horses, can affect the heel, the back of the pastern, the fetlock, and occasionally the cannon bone. Veterinarians may refer to it as pastern dermatitis or pastern folliculitis. It is also known as "mud fever", "dew poisoning", "greasy heel" or "cracked heels".  It basically looks like a bunch of thick scabs all over your horses lower leg.  Any horse can get scratches but it seems to be more prevalent in white legged horses and horses with feathers such as draft breads. 

 

Severe case of scratches, moving up the cannon bone 

Less severe case of scratches, only affecting the heel

To treat scratches, remember "Don't scratch the scratches!"  Picking the scabs will only make it spread.  Clip hair around the affected area and wash with antibacterial shampoo (chlorhexidine, betadine, or benzoyl peroxide) and let sit for 10 minutes before rinsing.  Do this once a day for about a week and then reduce to 2-3 times per week until resolved.  In severe cases a veterinarian may recommend antibiotic, anti-fungal, or steroid ointments. Prevention is the best method of managing scratches.  Keeping a dry clean environment for your horse and making sure legs are clean and dry after riding/turn-out.  

Rain Rot

"Rain rot", also known as rain scald or dermatophilosis, is a skin infection caused by a bacteria.  Though rain is one risk factor, any form of moisture such as sweating under a blanket can cause the inflammatory infection resulting in lesions along your horse's skin. These lesions cause small patches of raised bumps which are scabs containing clusters of your horse's hair.
While most often found on the horse's top-line, rain rot can be found on numerous areas of the horse's body, including their rump, face, and legs. Unlike many other skin conditions, areas with rain rot do not typically itch but can be painful and cause your horse to become sensitive to touch.  All horses can get rain rot, however horses with lighter coat colors as well as horses with compromised or poorly developed immune systems (such as young or older horses) have been found to be at higher risk. 

  

Rain rot across the back, loin, and croup

Up close view of rain rot lesions

Prevention of rain rot includes regular grooming and maintaining a clean dry environment for your horse.  Make sure to groom after rolling in the mud, especially if there are any open wounds present on your horses back from insect bites, etc.  Be sure to only apply a blanket when it's cold enough (body clipped horses below 60, moderate coat below 40, heavy coat below 30) to avoid sweating.  Treat affected areas with anti-microbial shampoo and currying until resolved.  Severe cases may require antibiotics from your veterinarian.  

For more information visit: Penn State Extension Rain Rot or Perdue Extension Scratches

Coggins: What is it and why do it? Horses in NC have Tested Positive Recently

It's already the time of year where horse owners should be thinking about Spring vaccinations and having their vet out for annual maintenance. Don't let the coggins testing slip past you this season either! It can be frustrating to have a group ride or show all planned out, just to discover your coggins are out of date. However, testing can be a smart idea whether you plan to travel with your horse or not. So, what are Coggins, and why do we need them in the first place?

Coggins Test Charts (or coggins for short) are simply forms indicating that a horse, pony, donkey or mule has been tested for Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA). The form should indicate that the animal is "Negative" for the viral disease. EIA is highly pathogenic, meaning very easy to spread, and is most commonly shared via biting flies that transmit blood, like horseflies. The disease can also be transmitted via infected needle, dental tools, or even bits. If an animal shows as "Positive" on the test, the USDA and state regulatory agencies require the equine to be euthanized (or occasionally under a very strict quarantine for its remaining life). Test results are valid for one year from the date the animal was tested. A test consists of a veterinarian drawing blood and sending it to an accredited lab for evaluation. The veterinarian will also fill out paperwork at the time of testing indicating the age, breed, etc. of the equine as well as take photos for identification. Many shows and events require riders/owners to present a negative coggins test before entering their facility. As of 2022, all states require proof of a negative coggins test for equines crossing state lines. In North Carolina, proof of a negative coggins test is required by law for equines traveling within the state as well. If you take your equine off of your property, you should have proof of a negative coggins test with you. Even if you don't plan to travel with your horse, it is smart to have a current negative coggins test on file anyway, because you never know when you may need to take an emergency trip to the vet or when an event you want to attend will pop up.

There is no preventative vaccine for EIA or cure. The American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) gives the following best management practices for owners:

• Use disposable needles and syringes, one per horse, when administering vaccines and medications.
• Sterilize dental tools and other instruments before using them on another horse.
• Test all horses for EIA at least annually.
• Test horses at the time of purchase examination.
• Stable owners, horse show and event managers should require and verify current negative Coggins certificates for all horses entering the premises.
• New horses should be quarantined for 45 days and observed for any signs of illness, including elevated temperatures, before introducing them to the herd. They should be retested if exposure to EIA is suspected at a 45-day interval.
• All stable areas should be kept clean, dry and waste-free. Good pasture management techniques should also be practiced. Remove manure and provide adequate drainage to discourage breeding sites for pests.
• Horses at greater risk, such as those in frequent contact with outside horses or who live or travel in geographic regions known for EIA outbreaks, should be tested more frequently, every 4 – 6 months.

For more information, check out the following resources: 

• Fact Sheet from the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services (NCDA&CS) about EIA: https://www.ncagr.gov/vet/FactSheets/equine.htm
• Article from the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP): https://aaep.org/horsehealth/equine-infectious-anemia
• Article about the counties that have had positive cases: https://equusmagazine.com/news/eq-edcc-health-watch/eia-in-six-north-carolina-counties/

NC 4-H Horse Program Opportunities for 2023

Did you know that North Carolina has one of the largest, most successful 4-H Horse Programs in the country?   Our 4-H Horse Program hosts many events, including clinics, contests, and shows, and has been very competitive on the national level for many years. 4-H Horse Clubs are available in most counties across the state.  There are five Extension and 4-H districts across the state, with many events to attend in the new year.  Be sure to take a look at the NC 4-H Horse Program website for a wealth of information on programs offered.

 
Be sure to read through and sign up for the monthly newsletters to find out what's coming up and what's been going on.  Check out the calendar of events.  Scroll through the educational material and educational events offered.   Contact your county 4-H or livestock agent to find out about horse clubs in your county, and how to get involved today!