Easing the Sting of Fertilizer Costs

Over the last year, we all have experienced price increases in products we use in our daily lives.  This price increase in common commodities is also affecting the agricultural sector.  As of March, some formulations of fertilizer have tripled in price compared to one year ago.  The price per ton of granular 30-0-0 is averaging around $800.  To make matters worse, some fertilizer, such as liquid UAN (urea ammonium nitrate) is in short supply and is hard to source from local distributors.  As we hatch a pasture management plan for the 2022 season, we can expect that these historically high prices will pack a punch to the wallet. Fortunately, there are some steps we can take to help ease the cost of our fertilizer bills.

Take Soil Samples of Your Fields- For anyone growing a crop or pasture, getting soils tested is the first step in the direction of lowering fertilizer inputs.  Getting your soil tested is cheap insurance when it comes to over-applying and over-paying for fertilizer.  If you need assistance with proper soil sampling please contact your local Extension office.  Once samples are collected from your fields, they can be brought to your local Extension office, from there we send them to get tested by the NC Department of Agriculture.  Currently, the agronomic lab is still in its peak season for sample submissions so there is a $4 fee per sample. From April to November there is no fee. Soil testing tells us what nutrients, such as phosphorus and potassium, are available for the specific plants or crops we want to grow.   Soil testing also quantifies our soil’s pH and provides us with a baseline of the amount of nutrients we need to add to grow a successful crop.  Remember, soil testing allows us to fine tune our fertility plans so we don’t over-apply nutrients which can be costly during periods of high fertilizer prices.  

Don’t Skimp on the Lime-  Although fertilizer prices have increased significantly over the last year, the price of agricultural lime, which is used to raise the soil pH,  has remained relatively steady. Since the vast majority of our soils are acidic, applying the recommended amount of lime will bring the soil pH up to the desired range for pastures which is typically 6.0.  Research has shown time and time again that greater amounts of plant nutrients are available when the soil pH is in the ideal range compared to soils with a lower pH.  

Using manures-  Another option to curb the sting of the fertilizer bill is to utilize animal manures.  Poultry litter, horse manure, or cattle manure are common animal wastes and when used responsibility can serve as an effective plant nutrient source in pastures.  Animal manures can vary in their availability of nutrients between sources so it is always good to submit a sample and have it analyzed for nutrient concentrations.  This process is also carried by the NCDA and shares the sample principles as soil testing.  

Planting legumes- Legumes are plants that convert atmospheric nitrogen into plant available nitrogen with the help of soil bacteria called rhizobia.  When planted as a cover crop or in pastures some of this nitrogen will contribute to the following crops. Due to their low fiber and high protein content, legumes can be incorporated in pastures to increase forage quality which boosts livestock performance.  Common legumes that can be grown in our area during the fall are: clover species (crimson, white, arrowleaf), hairy vetch, and winter pea. In the summer legumes such as cowpea, soybean, peanut, and sunhemp can be successfully grown.  All of these plants ultimately contribute some nitrogen back to our soils which can help cut down the fertilizer bill.

As fertilizer prices stay on a steady upswing, now is the time to start implementing some practices to weather high fertilizer prices.  If you have any questions about fertilizers or pasture management please contact your local Extension office.

Spring Forage Management in Eastern North Carolina

 

Many of us are looking forward to warmer weather and longer days.   If you manage a pasture for horses, or are planning to plant one, now is the time to make those final management decisions and plans.  What you do now will ensure spring pasture growth starts off right and leads into a productive summer.

 

For those wanting to plant a new pasture or hay field, your first decision will be what to grow.  For those who live in the Coastal Plain part of NC, bermudagrass or another warm season grass may be what you choose to grow and/or manage.  Are you interested in growing hybrid bermudagrass, or maybe a seeded variety?  There is a difference, starting with when and how to get this done.  Hybrids spread and reproduce by stolons (above ground growth) and rhizomes (below ground growth).  Any seeds seen on a hybrid plant are sterile, so we must start a field by planting “sprigs” which are small plants that have been dug from an established field and then re-planted to a new field.  Hybrid bermudagrass, such as Coastal, Tifton 44, or Midland 99 should ideally be planted anywhere from mid- February to mid-March.  There are sprig suppliers in the area that sell and will deliver sprigs to your field.  Extension can assist with contacts to sprig suppliers if this is your choice.  Seeded varieties of bermudgrass are also available and may be a better choice for small acreage locations or the flexibility of later planting dates.

 

Of course, there are other forage choices you might decide to plant.  Bermudagrass is a perennial plant, which will grow throughout the spring and summer and become dormant during the winter months but come back again the next year, and that is one reason it is often preferred.  However, there are annual grasses that could be planted, such as pearl millet or crabgrass, and these will grow well and provide plenty of grazing throughout the warmer months too.  If you want the flexibility of planting something new each season, an annual such as these may be a better choice for you.  

 

 

 

Either way, if a soil sample has not been taken in the past 2-3 years, it’s time to take one. Ideally, a soil sample is taken prior to the growing season, but anytime is better than none. Soil fertility changes over time and may not always be optimum for forage growth. Both establishing and planting forages for new pastures and maintaining fertility on existing pastures require soil sampling.   Pastures in southeastern NC will need to maintain around a 6-6.5 pH for maximum productivity.  Soil pH tends to drop off over time and additional lime may need to be applied in order to bring these levels back to normal. The soil sample will provide useful information with both lime recommendations and fertilization needs. Stop by the Extension office to pick up a soil test box and instructions on sampling.   

 

Another important step to starting off spring growth is fertilization.  Meeting the needs of the plant will allow for the optimum production of the crop, whether for grazing or hay.  Fertilization for warm season grasses should be applied in split applications throughout the growing season, generally with the first application in April or early May.  Again, the soil test is a handy tool in knowing what the nutrient needs of your pasture are, being based on what is currently available in the soil and depending on the type of pasture you are growing. 

 

Along with the spring growth of our pastures, comes the growth of various weeds.  There are several products on the market to help with this.  Emerging warm season weeds, such as pigweed, dogfennel, bitter sneezeweed, sicklepod, and horsenettle can be effectively controlled as long as they are treated while still immature.  At the same time, chemical herbicides generally work best when applied in moderate temperatures (60 degrees or better). A precaution to note: some herbicides are damaging to neighboring crops, such as tobacco and cotton, so be careful to select a safe product if these crops have been planted close by.  Choosing to apply herbicides during calmer days or times of the day is also a good idea as wind will carry these chemicals farther than you might think. 

 

In addition to controlling broadleaf weeds that invade our pastures and hay fields, there now are more options for grass-type weeds.  Many fields battle competition from crabgrass, bahiagrass, goosegrass, and vaseygrass just to name a few.  Once you’ve identified the weed or weeds you are dealing with, a selection can be made of the most ideal, appropriate, yet economical method or chemical to achieve this goal.   Your county agricultural extension agent will be glad to assist you in decisions to get your spring pastures started off right.

 

 

The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this article does not imply endorsement by North Carolina State University nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned.

What can I plant for summer pastures?

It's a typical North Carolina spring that has us bundled up in the morning and in flip-flops in the afternoon; however, with temperatures getting into the 80's, it's undeniable that summer is right around the corner.  As our cool-season forages begin to lose productivity, it's time to start preparing our summer pastures.

In North Carolina, we're fortunate to have a diverse range of warm-season annuals and perennials to choose from for our summer pastures.  However, to establish a strong, healthy stand that can withstand our hot (and often dry) summers, it is important to PREP AND FERTILIZE OUR PASTURES.

Next is determining which warm-season forage will work best in your pasture and grazing management.  Warm-season forages are divided into 2 categories: Annuals and Perennials.  Annuals are cheaper and usually grow rapidly and provide a lot of forage; however they usually only survive one summer.  Perennials on the other hand, once established can potentially last a lifetime if managed properly.  However, they are much more expensive and require more careful management and care after planting than annuals.

The following are a few examples of both annual and perennial forages that work well in North Carolina.  If you have any questions or would like to see what other options grow well in your area, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office: https://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/ 

Annuals:

Pearl Millet: Millet is a great choice for most grazing animals due to its fast growth. It resembles the corn plant in its early and vegetative stages, but with much more leaves. Millet should be allowed to grow about 18 inches before grazing, and then don’t allow animals to graze it lower than six inches. Grazing below this point will cause the plant to have poor re-growth and your stand will suffer. Planting rate: Broadcast: 20-25 lbs/ac; Drilled: 15-20 lbs/ac; depth of .5-1.5 inch; plant between April 20- June 20

Sorghum/Sorghum Sudans: These grasses are very similar in look and growth to Millet. The same recommendations for grazing heights for Millet also apply to these. One big difference is that members of the Sorghum family contain dhurrin, a glucoside that breaks down to release hydrocyanic acid also known as prussic acid. This acid is released after the plant is stressed, such as in a drought or after a frost. Prussic acid can be deadly so care should be taken when grazing this type of forage. Planting rate: Broadcast: 35-40 lbs/ac; Drilled: 20-30 lbs/ac; depth of .5-1 inch; plant between April 20- June 20

Perennials:

Bahiagrass: This common grass is frequently found along roadsides because of its fast growth. However, some good varieties do exist that are better for hay and pasture, such as TifQuick, Tifton 9, and Pensacola. After planting, bahiagrass should be allowed to grow 6-8 inches before grazing, and not grazed below 2-3 inches. Planting rate: Broadcast: 15-25 lbs/ac; Drilled: 10-20 lbs/ac; depth of .25-.5 inches; plant between Feb 1 and March 31.

Crabgrass: I know it sounds strange to plant crabgrass, but it is a highly nutritious forage that grows fast and is very tasty to livestock. Crabgrass also produces “runners” or stolons just like bermudagrass, so it will tolerate continuous grazing. Crabgrass seed is very inexpensive but usually has to be ordered over the phone or on the internet from seed companies in the midwest. After planting, crabgrass should be allowed to grow 6-8 inches before grazing, and not grazed below 2-3 inches. Planting rate: 1-5 pounds per acre at shallow depth 0-.25 inches; plant after the last frost through early May.

Bermudagrass: Probably the most common pasture grass in Eastern NC, bermudagrass has a lot of research behind it to help you choose a good variety. Seeded bermudagrass can be expensive because of its popularity, but is overall a good choice for all livestock. It tolerates close, continuous grazing because it stores its energy in the “runners” and rhizomes under the ground. After planting, bermudagrass should be allowed to grow 6-8 inches before grazing, and not grazed below 2-3 inches. Planting rate: Broadcast 6-8 lbs/ac; Drilled 10-20 lbs/ac; depth .25-.5 inches; plant by April 15- or through July if irrigated.

Is it too early to be thinking about winter feeding?

We are in the middle of hay season and it is never a bad time to plan for winter feeding. Cool-season annuals can help reduce the amount of hay that will need to be fed. Annuals are one season plants and die when it gets too hot or too cold. Winter or cool-season annuals are plants that grow best in cooler conditions and die as the temperatures increase. Ideally, cool-season annuals will be planted by mid-October and you will see the most production in late winter and early spring. Cool-season annuals should be allowed to reach 8 to 15 inches before being grazed and, for optimal regrowth, should not be grazed lower than 3 inches. 

Cereal rye is one of the most common and popular cool-season annuals to plant for grazing. It is the most cold tolerant of all the cool-season annuals.  It is best to use a no-till drill to plant cereal rye, but broadcasting the seed is also an option. 

Annual ryegrass is very easy to establish even when the seed is broadcasted due to the size of the seed. If allowed to go to seed it will reseed itself for next year. Annual ryegrass can persist well into the spring which can hurt your warm-season perennial grass during green-up. 

Triticale is a cross between wheat and cereal rye making it leafy, high yielding, and cold tolerant. Because of its cold tolerance, triticale will be productive in the early and late winter months. Similar to cereal rye, planting with a no-till drill is best but the seed can also be broadcasted.

Oats are a good addition to a cool-season annual mix because they can produce a lot of biomass in a short period of time. They grow best in cool, moist conditions. Spring oats, if planted in the early fall can be utilized for late fall grazing but will most likely get killed if temperatures drop into the teens for a few days in a row. Spring oats can also be planted in the later winter for early spring grazing. Winter oats have better cold tolerance and are usually more productive in the spring than in the fall. Due to the size of oats, it is best to use a no-till drill to plant them. If broadcast, there is a low likelihood of good establishment. 

When considering adding cool-season annuals into your grazing system, it is important to also consider fertilization. It is critical to put down nitrogen at or shortly after planting, 40 to 50 pounds per acre, which will help with tillering (thickness of the stand) and can lead to earlier grazing. Another application of nitrogen should be applied in mid-January to early-February of 25 to 50 pounds, depending on the need for forage at that time. If you decide to put out annual ryegrass another nitrogen application could be warranted in the early spring. Potassium and phosphorus should be applied according to your soil report. It is important to get any recommended lime out 3 to 6 months prior to planting to be sure the soil pH is correct. 

Terminating the cool-season annuals also needs to be considered. If cool-season annuals continue to produce too late into the spring, it will interfere with your warm-season perennial grass as it's breaking dormancy. This can delay green-up and lead to a reduced stand of grass. Most people will make an application of glyphosate when the warm-season perennial grass is still dormant before green-up, usually around early March, at a rate of 16 to 32 ounces per acre. Another option is to allow the cool-season annuals to be grazed below 3 inches which will greatly reduce their ability to regrow. 

Seeds for cool-season annuals can be purchased from multiple different seed companies. Seed can be ordered online. You can also work with your local sales representative or feed store to buy seed. Read the label for the recommended seeding rate and seeding method to get the best results. You can also take a look at the Planting Guide for Forage Crops in NC for recommended planting dates and seeding rates for your area of the state. The Sandhills falls into the Coastal Plains area. If you have more questions about incorporating cool-season annuals into your management system, contact your local livestock Extension agent. 

Why Install an Equine Dry Lot?

Managing horses on small acreage can be challenging.  One of the challenges often faced is the need for grazing but being limited on space.  Dry lots can serve many purposes but the main purpose is to have somewhere to confine horses when pastures need time to rest and regrow.  It is important to consider grading and footing when thinking about putting in a dry lot.  Without the proper grade and footing layers, the dry lot will not stand the test of time.   

What is an equine dry lot?

•      A small sacrifice area (usually free of vegetation) where shelter, feed, and water are located to house horses when they need to come off pastures. 

•      Other Purposes:

•      Exercise/Turnout from Stall

•      Injury Recovery

•      Managing Metabolic Issues

Before dry lot footing was added.

After dry lot footing was added.

Dry Lot Overview

•      Location: Near Barn/Shelter

–     Think central location to all pastures (for shelter, water, feed)

•      Size: min. 400 sq. feet (20 ft. x 20 ft.) for one horse

•      Cost for 20 ft. x 20 ft. Dry Lot:

–     Low End ~$1,000* (6 in. of screenings/rock dust)

–     High End ~$2,300* (geotextile fabric, 6 in. drainage stone, 6 in. screenings/rock dust)

*Prices are estimates and will vary depending on your area.

Dry Lots = Better Pastures and Healthier Horses

•      Manage horses on high density farms (boarding/training facilities)

•      Utilize rotational grazing

•      Manage turnout time

•      Prevent trampling when soil is too wet

•      Recovering from injury and need limited (safe) space

•      No mud!!  Mud causes injury (it’s slippery), thrush, parasites, abscesses, and more

•      Properly managed pastures can reduce hay cost by ~$60-$100/month!

For more information about equine dry lots and construction tips, please contact your local Extension Agent for advice.

Horse Pasture Planning & Design

Designing horse pastures from a blank canvas can be overwhelming.  How do you know where to put fence, gates, dry lots, run-in sheds, barns, and waterers?  A lot depends on the acreage, number of horses, grazing goals, and horse management.  Will the pasture be a major feed source or more for exercise?  Do you want to rotate pastures for better grazing management?  Here are a few tips to keep in mind when you start planning your horse pastures:

1.      Barn/Facility Location: Choose a central location that is on high ground for your main facilities that you pastures can lead back into.  Never put a barn in a low area that does not drain well or on the other side of your property where it is hard to get to.

2.      Pastures: Plan your pastures based on your stocking rates (how many horses you have per acre) and also your grazing goals.  If a horse is given 24/7 turnout on one pasture, you will likely need 2-3 acres per horse to avoid overgrazing and so there is enough to graze throughout the year.  If you are able to design multiple pastures with a dry lot, you can increase your stocking rate but keep in mind your grazing management will also increase.  It is ideal to rotate horses from one pasture to another once the grass is grazed down so the grass can rest and regrow.  This helps prevent overgrazing, weeds, selective grazing, and other issues associated with grazing the same pasture 24/7 with no rest.

3.      Consider the Environment/Topography:  Avoid fencing in areas that contain a pond, creek, or wetlands.  This is to protect the horse but also to protect water quality.  Wet areas can harbor bacteria, insects, and weeds.  Horses can also get injured in those area if they get stuck or fall.  Also, make sure you plan pastures according to topography.  If an area is too steep or rocky, avoid using that area because it will not make a productive pasture and can be hard to manage.

4.      Dry Lot: Dry lots are recommended (area free of vegetation with stable footing and a shelter) for most horse farms for better horse and pasture management.  If a horse needs restricted turnout or is injured, a dry lot is a safe place that can provide some exercise and socialization with other horses.  If pastures need rest or maintenance, horses can be placed on a dry lot and given hay until the pastures are ready to graze again.

5.      Gates, Fencing, Water, Shelter: Place gates in easy access walking areas, avoid corners and low areas.  Make sure the gate is at least 12 feet wide so equipment can go through the opening.  Smaller gate openings can also be dangerous for walking horses through.  Perimeter fencing should be woven wire, wooden, or electric fencing to provide a good barrier.  Internal fencing can be temporary electric fencing.  Only use electric fencing if horses are trained to it and maintenance is kept up.  Avoid using barb wire fencing.  Water placement should be near a common area where it is convenient to check and clean.  Ideally, you want water placed where it can serve multiple pastures (such as a dry lot area).  Either natural or man-made shelter should be available in each pasture (or each pasture have access back to a dry lot or shelter).

6.      Safety:  Pastures should be rectangle if possible to encourage exercise and to avoid injury.  Consider your horse’s safety in every aspect of pasture and facility planning.

These are just a few tips to get you started in the planning process when it comes to designing horse pastures.  Consider talking with your Extension Agent for further information and a farm visit to work on the design process together.  Setting up your horse farm for success takes time and careful planning, do not cut corners and rush the process!