EASTERN EQUINE ENCEPHALITIS - EEE

With the recent hurricane "Irene" horse owners have become worried about EEE (Eastern Equine Enciphalitis). Here is some information that should help when conditions are favorable for mosquitoes and the spread of EEE.

EEE is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system of many species of animals but is most often detected in birds and horses. The disease is transmitted to horses, and sometimes humans, by mosquitoes that have become infected after feeding on birds, which are circulating the virus. This is known as the mosquito/bird transmission cycle. It is important to remember that the virus is not transmitted directly from an infected horse to other horses or people.

Signs in infected horses can be varied but usually begin with fever, depression and listlessness, which then progress to more serious neurologic signs such as in-coordination, stumbling, circling, head pressing, coma and usually death. Once a horse becomes infected with the EEE virus and develops neurologic signs, the disease is fatal in roughly 90% of cases.

In most reported cases, the infected horses are four years or younger and are not current on vaccination against EEE. The initial series of two vaccinations should be given four weeks apart followed by semiannual boosters. In years with an above-average incidence of EEE, vaccination boosters given three times a year are recommended. Ask your veterinarian at what age to begin and the frequency of foal vaccination, as it differs from adult horses.

The use of vaccine to protect horses against EEE and other encephalitic disease, such as West Nile, is only a tool and should be used in conjunction with good mosquito reduction and avoidance measures implemented to protect yourself and your horse. The key is mosquito control to stop the mosquito/bird infection cycle. The most effective method is to destroy the mosquito larval habitat by removing all potential sources of stagnant water, in which mosquitoes might breed. Mosquitoes can breed in any puddle that lasts more than four days. Water buckets, water troughs, wading pools, birdbaths, wheelbarrows, clogged roof gutters, discarded tires, plastic containers or any water-holding container should be cleaned or emptied on a weekly basis. Drill holes in the bottom of containers that are left out-of-doors, turn over wheelbarrows, aerate ornamental pools and stock them with fish or chlorinate them.

In addition to reducing mosquito populations, preventing animals from being exposed to adult mosquitoes is important. Horses should be stabled inside during peak mosquito feeding times, which are dawn and dusk. Use of mosquito-resistant structures such as well-maintained insect screening and fans may reduce potential access of mosquitoes to equine and other livestock hosts. Insect repellants can be effective for humans and have some limited value for horses as well.

Horse owners should use repellents approved for use on horses, but the effectiveness of some formulations under certain conditions (e.g., rain, perspiration) may be limited. Always follow label instructions. Horse owners are encouraged to contact their veterinarian immediately should they notice any signs or symptoms of EEE infection in their horses, especially those exhibiting neurological signs.

This article came from the website : to veiw the whole article click on the link : http://www.freshfromflorida.com/ai/main/eee.shtml

Laura Martin

Wake County Livestock Agent

Sampling Season……….

By Paul Westfall, Granville & Warren County Cooperative Extension

Horse pastures, like pastures for any animal that utilizes forages to meet nutritional needs, require just the right amounts of nutrients in order to have maximum growth and to enhance forage quality. Since overseeding pastures was addressed in an earlier column, I thought this one should focus on meeting the nutritional needs of the grasses and legumes that are either already present in a fall pasture or are being overseeded to improve that pasture over a long period of time. The thought is that providing the right amount of nutrients to the forages will allow the forages to have a better chance of providing the right amount of nutrients to your horses. Pasture grasses that are high in protein and are highly digestible are more cost effective to feed than going to the feed store and purchasing extra supplements or going out and buying “horse hay” at a premium price.

I know this is an old message, but it needs to be heard – get the soil in your pastures tested. Right now is a great time to get that done, as the wait time is as short as it is likely to be at the lab. The only way to know how much lime or fertilizer to apply – and to ensure the right ratio of fertilizer is used – is to see what is already in place. Lime is critical to balance the soil pH for forage production, and the nutrients are the building blocks for forage growth and quality. I know that the ground has been too hard to dig in for most of the summer, but areas that have received rainfall lately may be ready for testing. Instructions for sampling a pasture or field are available at your county Cooperative Extension office.

It’s also time to start taking inventory on what forage is going to be available for the upcoming winter. That inventory should include the amount of hay in storage and what the quality of that hay is. The only way to determine the quality is to get forage samples tested at a qualified lab. For best results, sample each cutting of each field in order to formulate rations to best meet the nutritional needs of your horses at different times during the winter. The NCDA&CS lab in Raleigh is the most cost effective one to use. Your county Cooperative Extension office should have the sampling instructions and forms. Some offices have sampling tools that can be borrowed to take the samples.

The inventory will also allow a horse owner to assess whether or not there is enough pasture and hay available to get through the feeding season. If hay must be purchased, it is usually less expensive in the fall when supplies are relatively high.

I’ve seen a lot of hay that was harvested or purchased and called “high quality” that actually tested at 7% Crude Protein. Some of that hay was pretty high dollar stuff that was transported in from Nebraska or Oklahoma. Not only was it low in protein, but also was pretty highly indigestible. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to pay for or feed hay that might not be better than a snowball.

My point here is that a horse owner needs to know what’s in the forage in order to make the best decisions about what else to feed to the horses to meet the maintenance, gestation, lactation, growth, or work needs of the horses. That information is also needed to make good purchasing decisions when buying forages, too.

I’ll mention one other factor to consider when dealing with hay. A lot of hay doesn’t get the care it deserves once it is harvested. Round bales tend to wait in the field until it is convenient to move them to a storage area. I’ve seen too many storage areas that were not set up very well, causing the bales to deteriorate and mold. If you are harvesting hay for your horses, be sure to get it stored properly to reduce bale loss, and reduce mold, and to keep the forage quality in that hay as high as possible. That means storing round bales on pallets, leaving space between the bales, and covering them if they can’t be stored under a roof. Demand that any hay that you buy has been treated well in storage. If you do purchase hay, consider setting some quality parameters and be sure to review the forage test results before sealing the deal. That’s worth offering a little premium on the price since there is less risk of getting a load of low quality hay from a dealer if quality parameters are set.

Testing. Extension Agents sure say that word a lot. We are just trying to help folks gain some information so decisions aren't made in a vacuum. To sum it up, don’t just guess – get a test! Especially when we are talking about feeding nutrients to our forages in the pasture or the quality of forage being fed to our horses.

Horse Trailering Safety Tips

Last year, I attended a Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue Training. One section was on transportation accidents. The instructor showed many pictures of trailer accidents that ranged from no injuries to serious horse injuries to cases of animal and human deaths. Some of the cases were caused by operator error and could have been avoided. Two areas that are a major concern are poor hitching and tire problems. This article will discuss tips to keep your vehicle and trailer in the best working condition.

Vehicle

Several items to consider on your vehicle include the truck and engine size, electrical and brake systems, hitch type and ball size. The truck and engine size needs to have adequate power and pulling ability. Your vehicle should be the appropriate size to pull the load of the trailer. Do not use a vehicle that is too small or too big for your trailer. The electrical system should provide lights and a trailer braking system.

The vehicle should have a safe, sturdy hitch that is bolted or welded to the frame. Safety chains further attach the trailer to the vehicle. The chains should not drag the ground. The hitch height should be adjusted to allow the trailer to run level down the road. Use the proper ball size for your trailer. The ball and hitch should be checked for wear and tear. Before leaving, confirm the hitch is hooked up properly.

Trailer

Your trailer must be comfortable and safe for your horses. It should have adequate length, width and height. Other items to consider are the floors, mats, padding, ventilation and design. The horse should have room to move back and forth and front and back. A rule of thumb is the trailer should be 10 inches taller than the normal resting position of the horse’s head. Trailer lights are needed for visibility and to indicate changes in trailer movement. Flooring is an important part of the trailer. Check for rotten or broken boards and replace if needed. The floors should not be slick from urine or wear. Rubber mats, wood shavings, and straw are materials to cover wood floors to provide extra cushion and comfort. Proper tire inflation should be maintained at all times. Make sure you have the correct spare tire, jack, and lug wenches for the vehicle and trailer. The trailer should have a “butt bar” or safety chain to keep the horse from pushing on the trailer door.

There are varying opinions on tying a horse or leaving it loose in the trailer. If you tie your horse, make sure there is enough rope so it can move its head and neck adequately for balance. Horses tied too long can turn around or move in the trailer. Always tie with a quick-release knot or easy release panic snaps. During an emergency, do not spend time trying to untie a horse. Use a knife or sharp object to cut the lead rope or halter. Horses can choke to death if not quickly released.

When Driving

Plan your trip in advance and consider possible problems such as time of day to travel, construction or slow traffic areas and other items. Before you leave, double check that everything is properly hooked up and is working - lights, brakes, hitch, and safety chains. Be sure all doors are securely fastened. Drive defensively and look ahead for possible emergencies. Avoid sudden stops and starts.

Teach Your Horse to Trailer

A horse that is comfortable will be less likely to develop bad trailering habits. Training begins at an early age and positive experiences will help teach the horse to load easier. Train the horse with a quiet friend to reduce stress on the horse. Teach the horse to load on both sides.

Summary

Every situation is different, so think about what you can do to make your vehicle and trailer as safe as possible. Plan ahead and think through possible scenarios. If you have questions about your vehicle or trailer, find the answers. Safety should always be your first consideration.

For additional reading, check out these two publications from the University of Tennessee -

Trailering your Horse and Traveling with your Horse.

Weaning Lessons Learned

by Eileen A. Coite, Wayne County Cooperative Extension

A couple of years ago, I had the opportunity of my own personal experience with weaning a foal. Back in college, I had taken the equine breeding and foaling class, but that has been many years ago. It was also a group project with a university mare and foal, and the semester wasn’t long enough to experience weaning. So this time, I not only refreshed my memory of the breeding, gestation, and foaling experience, but also was able to experience the stress that comes along with weaning.

Though I learned many lessons throughout the entire breeding and foaling process, I wanted to focus this article on weaning. I must say weaning was the most stressful part of the entire event for me! I hope that some of my experiences and research may be of help to you if its weaning time, or that you will find some similarities and comfort in decisions you have made when weaning your own foal. The following lessons are in no particular order but things I have learned and noted throughout the process:

Lesson 1: A group is always better. Having one mare and foal I learned tends to be considerably more difficult than having several (or at least more than one). The group can be pastured together and ultimately weaned together, leaving the foals to grow up and bond as a group. In my situation, a “buddy” gelding was used as the companion, and a similar weaning process had to be done all over with separation from the gelding at a later date.

Lesson 2: Utilize creep feeding. Long before the weaning process (usually within the first week or two) the foal should be consuming grain along with milk from the mare. Not only will this help balance out the diet and keep the mare from losing too much weight, it will also help the foal with an appetite during the weaning process. Research has shown that foals should be consuming at least ¾ pound per 100 pound of body weight per day before weaning. Of course, a successful creep feeding program needs to feed the foal and keep the mare out!

Lesson 3: Handle the foal often. This is one thing I definitely believe in doing right. Spending lots of time with the foal through feeding, grooming, leading, etc. is critical. Foal imprinting is something that can be used as a very beneficial aid to experiences later in life. We could spend a whole article discussing imprinting techniques. This should be a priority of your daily routine if at all possible.

Lesson 4: Don’t overcomplicate the feeding regime. There are so many brands and choices of feed on the market, it’s easy to get confused and worried about your foal’s nutrition. At the same time, this is a critical stage in the growing process and will have a lifelong impact on your foal, so underfeeding or poor nutrition at this stage is a major mistake. We have Extension publications that breakdown the nutrient requirements of weanlings and yearlings, and as long as these requirements are met, healthy foals will do just fine. The important thing is to make sure we feed a balanced ration with the right amount of energy, protein, critical amino acids, vitamins and minerals. There are many feeds on the market today that will meet these needs, and the rule of thumb after weaning is to feed approximately 1 pound of concentrate per month of age.

Lesson 5: Make sure to follow your veterinarian’s vaccination and deworming recommendations. Most will recommend that a series of vaccines be given at 5,7, and 9 months of age. Deworming should be done by body weight on a monthly basis at first. Definitely ask your vet what they recommend to get your foal off to a healthy start.

Finally, keep open communication with others and ask the experts. Having a friend or two that have raised foals can be wonderful assets to a positive experience. Make sure to keep in touch with your vet on a regular basis and follow his or her advice. Keep in touch with the breeding farm where your mare was serviced and ask them for tips. Of course, there are plenty of books, magazine articles, and internet resources to consult. It is best to know all the options and seek advice from those that have been there and have the experience and training. Most of all, have fun with your new filly or colt. As with any youngster, they will grow up very fast!