It’s getting to be that time of year again when you’re
waiting to lay eyes on your new foals!
While you are waiting, its important to make sure that your mares are
getting the proper nutrition that they need for themselves and their fetuses. According to Dr. Robert A. Mowrey,
Retired Extension Horse Husbandry Specialist at North Carolina State
University, nutrition is one of the more important factors affecting
reproductive efficiency. To learn
how to reduce production costs, increase conception rates, and improve foaling
rates, please read Dr. Mowrey’s article at: http://www.ncagr.gov/markets/livestock/horse/documents/AG491-1FeedingManagementoftheBroodmare.pdf
Monday, December 31, 2012
Thursday, December 27, 2012
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Water and Hay: Critical to Winter Health
With brisk temperatures and frequent fluctuations of our North Carolina winter weather, it is always good to remember how critical these changes can be to our equine companions. If you’ve been in the horse business long enough, you have probably encountered a horse experiencing colic due to temperature changes. Keeping horses warm and hydrated in the winter, as well as in good body condition can be a challenge, especially during weeks like this one. Key factors in achieving this are providing shelter from the wind and rain, along with plenty of clean water and good hay. Here are some things that should help keep your horse healthy this winter.
Maintaining ample water intake is the most critical part of
ensuring the health of your horse during cold weather. The horse prefers a water temperature of
45-65°F. Under normal conditions, the horse will
consume one gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight per day. An 1100 pound horse will consume 10-12
gallons of water daily. As the water temperature
decreases, horses will consume less water.
An 1100 pound horse may consume as little as 1-3 gallons of water per
day when water temperature is 32°F.
Low water intake is
directly related to the increased incidence of impaction colic. Water intake can be encouraged by increasing
the amount of forage being fed prior to a drop in temperature. The resulting increase of dry matter
encourages the horse to drink more water.
Concentrate mashes can also be fed during the actual cold period when
water temperature is below 45°F. Feeding 2-3 gallons of hot water mixed in a
mash with a textured or pelleted concentrate mix will provide additional water
intake. To minimize gas colic, allow for
the mash to sit for 15 minutes. This will permit the feed to expand prior to
feeding. If possible, offer 10 gallons
of water (at 65°F or warmer) twice
daily. Break and remove ice from water
tubs, making certain to provide water that is available free choice.
Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical
aspect to winter management of horses.
This is the time of year where hay supplies sometimes get thin, so
planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is
critical. When temperatures get below
freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only
forage option. Horses, along with other
grazing animals, need hay to stay warm.
Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of
the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body
temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just
an increase in hay consumption. Those
that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase
of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in
hay during cold periods. For example, a
mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet
these temperature needs in cold weather. It’s important to pay close attention to body
condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse. A long hair coat or winter blanket can often
cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and
get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or
“cover” there is over and around them.
If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight,
increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful. Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just
for this purpose.
These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get
through these brisk winter days. For more information or advice, don’t hesitate to contact
your Extension office.
Written by Eileen Coite
Monday, December 17, 2012
Rye, Rye Grass- what’s the difference?
This is a question that many Extension Agents and commercial pasture managers get asked each fall. When you get into a conversation with horse owners about this topic, you will always be able to group people into one of three categories. Those that fully understand the difference, those that have no clue there is a difference, and those that understand the difference but interchange the proper terms for the two forages without thinking about it. Regardless of which category you find yourself in, let’s discuss the two different grasses and their pros and cons.
Cereal Rye and ryegrass are two different species (though closely related) of grass . They do have much in common. They are both annuals, meaning that they have to be replanted every year (preferably in the fall) and will germinate, grow and die in a few months. The plant does in fact completely die, not just goes dormant such as bermudagrass in the winter. This is what distinguishes an annual from a perennial. They are both considered cool season annuals that ideally need to be planted in the early fall. They both will provide grazing in the spring (and possibly earlier in the year depending on how mild a winter we have). The two types of grass are almost identical when they first emerge out of the ground, and will not really be distinguishable until they start to grow and get bigger. This is also why you have the confusion that sometimes arises when people use the two terms interchangeably. For all their similarities however, they are some big differences that separates the two species.
Cereal Rye, which depending on where you reside in the world tends to be referred to as just rye, is actually a plant that is grown for grain as much as it is a forage. It is planted in the fall and can grow in colder weather than rye grass. It is not uncommon for cereal rye to be growing at full speed by the first of February in a mild winter. Rye will complete its growth cycle by forming a mature seed head by the end of April/first of May. This is when you can easily tell if you have cereal rye in your paddocks. If left to grow and mature, cereal rye will get very tall and “stemmy” and the palatability (as well as the nutrient content) of the forage will decrease to the point that grazing will stop completely. Cereal Rye is best managed by grazing the forage heavily before it gets over 5-6 inches tall. If your horse are not able to keep up with the growth of the rye than mowing it is certainly an option. Mowing will almost be a necessity regardless of your management skill by the first of May to remove any Rye residue, which will rob your emerging bermudagrass of critical sunlight in the late spring. This is also a point that not everybody understands about Cereal Rye in bermuda. Regardless of how good a manager you are, rye will slow your bermuda growth in the spring and will cost you 2-4 weeks or growth out of your bermuda in the early growing season. Given the additional grazing time you get off of the rye however, most people view this as the lesser of two evils.
Rye Grass is similar in a lot of aspects, but it does have some key differences. It too is planted in the fall, and is almost identical to cereal rye when very small. The differences between rye grass and cereal rye does not become apparent until the plant starts to get some size on it. Rye grass has a much thicker leaf and does not put its energy into forming a seedhead. It grows much lower to the ground and appears to be “bunchier”. As the feed value (protein and energy) of any plant is in the leaf, it is for this reason that ryegrass is generally considered a much better forage for animals. The plant will keep good palatability much longer into its growth cycle than cereal rye will. If Rye grass is such a better forage than why would people ever put cereal rye into their bermuda paddocks over rye grass? The reason is that ryegrass grows much later into the spring (and even into the early summer). The problems associated with the spring competition that was discussed in the cereal rye section above are multiplied by a factor of 5 with ryegrass. Ryegrass grows the greatest in April and May, which is at the exact time bermuda is struggling to break dormancy. With Cereal Rye being at the end of its natural life cycle, you can mow it or graze it heavily and reduce this competition to a manageable level during this critical time of the year. With Ryegrass, this competition reduction is not possible. The rapidly growing ryegrass will cause severe damage to your bermuda stand during this time. This is why for all of its short comings, cereal rye is vastly preferred by agronomist over ryegrass if used in an existing stand of bermudagrass.
There are also blends of rye and ryegrass available on the market. The ratio of cereal rye to rye grass seeds will vary depending on the brand name.
Written by Randy Wood
Thursday, December 13, 2012
College of Veterinary Medicine Equine Health Symposium
The NCSU Equine Health Program and NCSU-Student Chapter of the American Association of Equine Practitioners proudly invite you to join us for select topics in equine health. The symposium will be held February 2-3, 2013. For more information, click here.
Monday, December 10, 2012
Caring for horses on a budget
In these economic times all horse owners are looking for ways to save money and keep their horses in good healthy condition.
Housing - Healthy horses can thrive outdoors. Building a shelter for adverse weather is good enough for a horse. This will save money on barn maintenance and stall cleaning.
Cleanliness - flies, ticks and mosquito's are responsible for a lot of viruses and diseases. Keeping your horses environment extra clean will help with keeping these pests at lower numbers around your farm.
Safety - Improving barns and keeping up with regular maintenance will reduce the risks of horse injuries.
Always have a good working relationship with a veterinarian. Have a plan set in place so if an accident does happen you will have an idea of how much money it will cost to get good care for your horse. This helps ,because you can save little by little ,so if this does happen you can have some money saved to help pay for the accident. The number one thing that will help any horse owner save money is utilizing pasture. Forage should equal to at least 50% of your horses diet. Horse nutrient requirement depend on their age, weight, exercise, ect..... Most people over feed their horses leading to wasted money and overweight horses. Removing unnecessary grain from diets can lead to huge money savings. Take hay samples and do soil tests to see what nutrients your horse is getting and what your horse really needs. For the full article see : http://www1.extension.umn.edu/agriculture/horse/care/caring-for-horses-on-a-budget/">
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Keeping Horses Warm in Winter
What this boils down to is whether or not to use blankets on your horse during cold weather. Generally, the recommendation is to not use blankets except in certain situations. Those situations are if the horse is clipped, is very thin or stressed, or the horse is old and has trouble regulating body temperature in cold weather.
If a blanket is used for whatever reason, be sure that it fits the horse. Ill-fitting blankets can cause rub marks and sores on the horse, or, if too large, can twist up and cause the horse to become tangled or destroy the blanket. Check to see if the horse is too warm so it doesn’t overheat. Blanket linings should not damage the hair underneath. Be sure to groom blanketed horses often.
One thing that we should all remember is that the comfort zone for a horse is much different than that of a human. It is all too easy to think that our horses are cold when we are. There is a big difference between us and our horses – we don’t have a thick coat of insulating hair all over our bodies! Our horses do, so I’ll propose that the best way to keep a horse warm in the winter is to use what nature has given to the horse’s advantage.
A horse’s coat has dense, under hair and longer outer hair. In cold weather, those dense sets of hair work together with skin muscles to trap air under the hair coat, which provides an insulation layer that helps the horse to stay warm in cold weather. Combine that with the management strategy of allowing the horse to gain a bit of weight as we are going into the winter months, providing a windbreak area and a roof to keep relatively dry, and most horses will stay very comfortable in some pretty cold temperatures.
There are a couple of other factors that influence how well a horse keeps warm in cold weather. Most horses are fed a forage-based diet. As the microbes in the cecum digest that forage, a lot of heat energy is generated. Remember that the cecum acts as a fermentation vat in the intestine, allowing horses to utilize forages for nutrition. That energy release helps horses be comfortable in cold weather.
Horses also generate heat by exercising. Horses are known to just kick up their heels and run around the pasture. In cold weather, sometimes they are running around to generate heat. They will also stand still and shiver to generate heat, but usually only for short periods of time. If your horse is shivering all the time, be sure to take action to see what the problem is.
People wonder just what adequate shelter is for horses in winter weather. That answer can range from a wooded ravine that provides a good windbreak to a pole structure with a roof and one wall to cut both wind and rain, to a fully enclosed barn stall. Be sure that there s plenty of fresh air if the horse is kept inside a barn. Cold, fresh air is a much better environment for horses than a tight, warm barn with stagnant air.
The worst weather condition for outdoor horses is cold and rain combined with wind. The wind will break up the pockets of trapped, warm air and allow the rain to penetrate the hair and destroy the insulative layer. The horse has a more difficult time keeping warm under those conditions, so then a roof and windbreak become even more important. Most of the time, however, horses are just fine in cold weather as long as good common sense and management practices are followed.
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
New Page!
For those of you wondering who's behind the blog posts... we've added a new page about our writers! Check it out!
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Think a Horse is the Perfect Christmas Present?
Think again. Many young children beg for a pony or a horse for Christmas. Make sure you know what you're getting yourself into before making that purchase. The article, "Christmas Horses, Ponies Take Commitment, Money" talks about all aspects of owning a horse, from how much pasture and care they'll need, to how hard it is to sell a horse and their lifespan. Not all aspects of raising horses are challenging, there are some rewards, but we want to make sure you know what you're getting yourself into before making your child's dreams come true.
For more information on what it takes to raise a horse or a pony, please contact your local extension agent.
For more information on what it takes to raise a horse or a pony, please contact your local extension agent.
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
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Monday, November 19, 2012
Protecting Your Barn and Horses from Disease
Are you at risk for a disease outbreak on your farm? Do you know how your horses get exposed to diseases? Do you know what to do if your horses get sick? Do you know what to do after a sick horse is identified? Check out this video to learn about good biosecurity practices for your farm, your horses and yourself.
Friday, November 16, 2012
Grazing Winter Annuals
In mid-August I posted about Overseeding Permanent Pastures for Winter Grazing. Today, I'd like to follow up on that topic and discuss a bit about grazing these annual forages.
The first step in getting maximum use out of these forages is to allow them to become well established before grazing. Horses must be excluded from areas where these grasses are planted until they have developed a sufficient root system to prevent the animals from pulling them up while grazing. A good rule of thumb is to allow rye, ryegrass or oats to reach at least 6" tall before grazing, and to graze no lower than 3-4".
Another consideration is that if horses have been stalled or in a drylot with no access to pasture, then care may be warranted in introducing the animals to the pasture. The following is a paragraph from "Pasture:Evaluation and Management of Existing Pasture" written by Dr. Jenifer Nadeau, Equine Extension Specialist with the University of Connecticut. (The entire article can be found here.)
"If not grazing year round, be sure to gradually introduce horses to spring pasture.
There is no need to do this if horses are maintained on pasture year round, since the growth of pastures in the spring is not rapid enough to warrant stalling horses that are typically turned out. The only time to worry about this is if horses are stalled with no turnout and all of a sudden in the spring are going to be allowed pasture. Pasture grasses are high in sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose and fructan) particularly during rapid growth. The simple sugars (sucrose, glucose, and fructose) can be digested in the small intestine by the horse but not the fructans, which reach the horse’s large intestine undigested. The fructans are then rapidly fermented by the action of microbial enzymes with the production of lactic acid and a decrease in cecal pH leading to colic and laminitis. The first day or two after the onset of pasture growth, try to limit grazing to 30 minutes to 1 hour. Then gradually increase the time over the next 7-10 days. Avoid grazing laminitis prone horses and ponies on spring or lush pasture that may trigger laminitis. Use a dry lot for overweight horses and ponies."
The final thought I will mention is that these annual forages benefit from rotational grazing just like your permanent pastures, and making good use of rotational grazing will greatly stretch the supply of available forage, particularly in the early part of winter when the growth of these grasses is slow, before the rapid growth with warmer weather in the late winter and early spring. Good rotational grazing will also allow you to move animals off the pasture before it is grazed too low for the plant to regenerate. After all, it's not cheap to grow these forages, the last thing you want to do is waste them.
For more information on grazing winter annual grasses, contact your local Extension office.
The first step in getting maximum use out of these forages is to allow them to become well established before grazing. Horses must be excluded from areas where these grasses are planted until they have developed a sufficient root system to prevent the animals from pulling them up while grazing. A good rule of thumb is to allow rye, ryegrass or oats to reach at least 6" tall before grazing, and to graze no lower than 3-4".
Another consideration is that if horses have been stalled or in a drylot with no access to pasture, then care may be warranted in introducing the animals to the pasture. The following is a paragraph from "Pasture:Evaluation and Management of Existing Pasture" written by Dr. Jenifer Nadeau, Equine Extension Specialist with the University of Connecticut. (The entire article can be found here.)
"If not grazing year round, be sure to gradually introduce horses to spring pasture.
There is no need to do this if horses are maintained on pasture year round, since the growth of pastures in the spring is not rapid enough to warrant stalling horses that are typically turned out. The only time to worry about this is if horses are stalled with no turnout and all of a sudden in the spring are going to be allowed pasture. Pasture grasses are high in sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose and fructan) particularly during rapid growth. The simple sugars (sucrose, glucose, and fructose) can be digested in the small intestine by the horse but not the fructans, which reach the horse’s large intestine undigested. The fructans are then rapidly fermented by the action of microbial enzymes with the production of lactic acid and a decrease in cecal pH leading to colic and laminitis. The first day or two after the onset of pasture growth, try to limit grazing to 30 minutes to 1 hour. Then gradually increase the time over the next 7-10 days. Avoid grazing laminitis prone horses and ponies on spring or lush pasture that may trigger laminitis. Use a dry lot for overweight horses and ponies."
The final thought I will mention is that these annual forages benefit from rotational grazing just like your permanent pastures, and making good use of rotational grazing will greatly stretch the supply of available forage, particularly in the early part of winter when the growth of these grasses is slow, before the rapid growth with warmer weather in the late winter and early spring. Good rotational grazing will also allow you to move animals off the pasture before it is grazed too low for the plant to regenerate. After all, it's not cheap to grow these forages, the last thing you want to do is waste them.
For more information on grazing winter annual grasses, contact your local Extension office.
Thursday, November 1, 2012
Stallion Breeding Reports
Attention American Quarter Horse Association Stallion Owners:
Don't forget to submit your stallion breeding report by November 30th to avoid any late fees. It needs to be postmarked by that date or entered on-line.
Forms can be found at: http://www.aqha.com/About/Content-Pages/About-the-Association/Services/Submit-Stallion-Breeding-Reports.aspx
Don't forget to submit your stallion breeding report by November 30th to avoid any late fees. It needs to be postmarked by that date or entered on-line.
Forms can be found at: http://www.aqha.com/About/Content-Pages/About-the-Association/Services/Submit-Stallion-Breeding-Reports.aspx
Monday, October 29, 2012
Composting
Composting - What is it???
Composting is the biodegradation of organic material, such as food, yard waste (leaves and grass), and manure. It may take a very long time for some material to biodegrade depending on its environment, but it ultimately breaks down completely.
The Four Basics of Composting
Oxygen – maintains proper temperature of the pile. Frequent turning equals quick compost!
Temperature – ideal is 140o F; piles should be turned above or below 140o F.
Moisture – pile should always be slightly moist, cover pile to maintain moisture. Should be similar to a wrung out sponge!
Carbon : Nitrogen ratio – ideal range between 20:1 and 40:1
Benefits of Composting
- Improves soil quality when applied = more food for your horse!
- Limits nitrogen depletion of the soil
Keeping these steps in mind will put you on the path to having a great batch of compost!
Fun Fact: A 1000 pound horse produces 31 pounds of feces and 2.4 gallons of urine a day adding up to a total of 51 pounds of daily waste.
Not Composting???? - How to Properly Store Your Manure
Consider the location of your manure pile and type of container (if any) it will be stored in:
Location: Manure containers or piles should be as far away as possible from water sources so there is no contamination! Always make sure there is at least 200 feet between water sources and the manure pile.
Removal: How the manure will be removed will determine what kind of container you will need. Trash cans or covered truck beds allow for easy removal of manure, while dumpsters require special equipment.
Whether you have one or many horses, it is easy to be more “green” by storing or composting manure!
Check out these composting websites:
http://polk.ces.ncsu.edu/content/Horse+Manure+Composting
Choosing the Best Bedding - Safe for the environment AND the horse
As owners and care-givers, we must provide horses with the most comfortable and safe living arrangements. Choosing the most efficient and cost effective bedding can make all the difference to the horse as well as the stall cleaners
There are many factors in choosing bedding:
ABSORBENCY!!
Price
Biodegradability
Availability
Ease of disposal
Allergies
There are also various types of bedding to choose from, making it easy to choose the best type of bedding for you and your horse. Kinds of bedding and their pros and cons include:
Straw – Cheap, good for compost, low absorbency
Sawdust – Expensive, high absorbency, good for compost
Shavings – Cheap, bad for compost, readily available
Newspaper – Moderate absorbency, readily available (recycle!), ink could bleed
Wood pellets – Expensive, high absorbency, great for compost
Helpful Bedding Websites :
Did you know?? Not all hardwoods can be used to make wood shavings; walnut and oak woods contain toxins that are harmful to horses.
Monday, October 22, 2012
Do Not Feed Moldy Hay to Horses!
That sounds like pretty good advice, and in fact is the title of a University of Minnesota Extension publication written by a host of specialists from Wisconsin, Minnesota, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Idaho, and North Carolina. Most of the time, it is pretty easy to tell if hay is moldy but if it is not obvious, then perhaps a forage test is in order to confirm the hay is free of mold and the accompanying spores and dust. More on that later.
It doesn’t take much moisture for mold to grow in hay. Moisture levels above levels above 14 – 15 % with no preservative added can result in moldy hay. The mold process causes heat, which in turn reduces TDN and binds up protein molecules, making them non-digestible. However, that isn’t the main problem with moldy hay. Molds produce toxins – a whole host of them, including Aflatoxin (AFL), Deoxynivalenol (DON or vomitoxin), T-2 Toxin (T2), Zearalenone (F2), and Fumonisin (FB1). They are all bad news , but some can be tolerated in very small amounts. However, FB1 should not be present in hay. Tolerance levels for the other four are:
AFL - 50 parts per billion (ppb)
T2 - 50 ppb
DON - 400 ppb
F2 - 100 ppb
As you can see, these are pretty low levels of concentration. AFL is considered carcinogenic, DON causes reduced feed intake and is implicated in colic cases, T2 causes digestive tract irritation and has been implicated in colic, F2 reduces fertility and reproductive performance, and FB1 is implicated in impaired immune function, liver and kidney damage, and a condition known as moldy corn poisoning, hence the recommendation for zero FB1. More details and definitions on these toxins can be found in the publication Horse Feeding Management; Feed Sampling and Analysis.
While most of these toxins are more closely related to wet grains, they can occur in moldy forages. However, the biggest problem with moldy hay is that it is usually very dusty and full of mold spores. Horses are particularly sensitive to mold spores and often develop respiratory problems similar to asthma when fed moldy, dusty hay. This condition is known as Recurrent Airway Obstruction (RAO). Affected horses don’t have elevated temperature and have a good appetite, but when exercising, breathing quickly becomes labored, and can even be labored while at rest.
A list of tips on reducing the affects of moldy, dusty hay on horses is found in the University of Minnesota publication and is repeated here:
· Do not feed dusty and moldy hay and grains.
· Use dust-free bedding
· Don’t use old moldy hay as bedding. (I added this one to the list!)
· Place feed at a lower level so particles are not inhaled through the nostrils
· Keep horses out of the stable when sweeping and cleaning to reduce exposure to dust
· Feed hay outside
· Soak dusty hay from 5 to 30 minutes before feeding and let the horse eat it wet
· Store hay away from the horse as much as possible and keep hay dry to reduce the chance of mold growth
· Make sure stalls and stables are well ventilated.
Horse owners should insist on seeing a forage analysis before buying horse hay. That is an expensive commodity, and we want to make sure that we are getting a product that is worth what is being paid. If a forage test isn’t available, it is a good idea to send a sample for analysis on each load of hay purchased.
When submitting a sample for analysis, remember that the test for mycotoxins is free of charge if the nutritive value is not tested. However, for $10, the information on protein, digestibility, and micronutrients in the hay is well worth the money. Add in the “freebies” like mycotoxin testing and nitrate testing, well, that makes a good value a great value.
For more information on testing forages for molds and mycotoxins, contact your local Cooperative Extension Agent.
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Managing the Overweight Horse
Adapted from "Trimming the Fat: Weight Loss Strategies for the Overweight Horse, Fact Sheet, Maryland Cooperative Extension."
Horses that carry excess body weight are at an increased risk for many health problems. These include laminitis, decreased athletic and reproductive performance, and a greater risk for heat stress. In this overview, you can learn about ways to combat overweight horses. However, you should always work closely with your veterinarian to determine the cause of obesity in your horses. It may be related to their exercise level and diet or it could be related to their metabolic and physiological condition.
It is very important to periodically evaluate your horse's body weight and body condition score (BCS). There are three different ways you can measure body weight. 1) livestock scale 2) heart girth weight tape or 3) calculate body weight by using the measurement of the horse's heart girth (HG), and body length (BL). Use this equation: W = ((HG) squared x (BL)) / 330. Body condition score is also very important. It is measured from 1 - 9 with 9 being extremely fat. This score measures the amount of fat that a particular horse stores a different locations including withers, shoulder, ribs, loin, neck, and tailhead. Horses that are nearing a BCS of 7 are at a higher risk of developing health problems.
Various methods for reducing your horse's weight:
* Set a target weight loss
* Increase exercise level
* Reduce feed intake
* Change the type of diet
* Reduce access to pasture
* Feed horses separately
* Use drugs, medications, and supplements as a last resort
Horses need to lose excess weight gradually and over several months. Horses can safely lose one BCS per month (about 50 pounds). Horse owners need to be careful with their horses losing weight too rapidly, as they may develop bad behaviors (wood-chewing, bedding ingestion, etc.). Try not to monitor your horse's weight loss too often (weekly is too often) because it could discourage you. It is very important that a horse maintain it's ideal body condition once it reaches that weight / BCS. Horse owners should be diligent to watch their horse's rations, needs that arise that may change or alter the quantity of feed the horse receives, and the animal's overall health. Don't forget to contact your veterinarian to discuss the best weight loss plan for your horse.
See the full article here.
Submitted by: Margaret A. Bell, Livestock Agent
Craven and Jones Counties
Horses that carry excess body weight are at an increased risk for many health problems. These include laminitis, decreased athletic and reproductive performance, and a greater risk for heat stress. In this overview, you can learn about ways to combat overweight horses. However, you should always work closely with your veterinarian to determine the cause of obesity in your horses. It may be related to their exercise level and diet or it could be related to their metabolic and physiological condition.
It is very important to periodically evaluate your horse's body weight and body condition score (BCS). There are three different ways you can measure body weight. 1) livestock scale 2) heart girth weight tape or 3) calculate body weight by using the measurement of the horse's heart girth (HG), and body length (BL). Use this equation: W = ((HG) squared x (BL)) / 330. Body condition score is also very important. It is measured from 1 - 9 with 9 being extremely fat. This score measures the amount of fat that a particular horse stores a different locations including withers, shoulder, ribs, loin, neck, and tailhead. Horses that are nearing a BCS of 7 are at a higher risk of developing health problems.
Various methods for reducing your horse's weight:
* Set a target weight loss
* Increase exercise level
* Reduce feed intake
* Change the type of diet
* Reduce access to pasture
* Feed horses separately
* Use drugs, medications, and supplements as a last resort
Horses need to lose excess weight gradually and over several months. Horses can safely lose one BCS per month (about 50 pounds). Horse owners need to be careful with their horses losing weight too rapidly, as they may develop bad behaviors (wood-chewing, bedding ingestion, etc.). Try not to monitor your horse's weight loss too often (weekly is too often) because it could discourage you. It is very important that a horse maintain it's ideal body condition once it reaches that weight / BCS. Horse owners should be diligent to watch their horse's rations, needs that arise that may change or alter the quantity of feed the horse receives, and the animal's overall health. Don't forget to contact your veterinarian to discuss the best weight loss plan for your horse.
See the full article here.
Submitted by: Margaret A. Bell, Livestock Agent
Craven and Jones Counties
Friday, September 21, 2012
Thrush in Horses
The old quote “No foot, no horse” pretty much sums up the importance of the
horse’s foot. They are the foundation of
any animal and care must be taken to reduce problems. Each foot supports weight, resists wear,
absorbs shock, provides traction, conducts moisture and helps pump blood.
There are several foot problems that occur in horses such as thrush,
white line disease, sole bruises, corns, abscess, sand cracks, navicular
disease and laminitis. This article will
discuss thrush.
Diagram from Functional Anatomy of the Horse
Foot from the University of Missouri Extension by Robert C. McClure with the College of Veterinary Medicine.
The best control for thrush is clean and dry hooves. Good hoof cleaning (daily) and eliminating a wet environment for the horse are keys to preventing thrush. Clean and remove manure from stalls and run-in sheds frequently. If horses are in a pasture, make sure they are able to get out of the wet areas of the field.
Thrush is the most common infection in horse’s
hooves. It is caused by anaerobic
bacteria that affects the frog. It is
characterized by a black, foul smelling infection that eats away at either side
of the frog. If untreated, it can damage
tissue and cause lameness. It is similar
to foot rot in ruminants but is not contagious.
Thrush usually occurs from unsanitary or wet conditions.
The best control for thrush is clean and dry hooves. Good hoof cleaning (daily) and eliminating a wet environment for the horse are keys to preventing thrush. Clean and remove manure from stalls and run-in sheds frequently. If horses are in a pasture, make sure they are able to get out of the wet areas of the field.
Click here to see steps
to cleaning your horse’s hooves from eXtension’s Horse Page.
Click here to see how to diagnosis and treat thrush from North Carolina State
University Vet School.
Here is a video from Horse.com by Dr. Morrison about thrush in horses.
The use of this video does not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.
The use of this video does not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service.
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Early Ultrasound Pregnancy Examination Is Critical to Sound Breeding Program
After a mare is bred, waiting to
determine if the mare returns to heat before having her examined for pregnancy
may appear to be a way to save money by avoiding "needless" pregnancy
evaluations, but may ultimately result in greater costs. The use of ultrasound
enables us to diagnose pregnancy at an early stage, 12 to 14 days after ovulation.
Ovulation usually occurs approximately one day before the mare goes out of
heat. The advantages of early pregnancy diagnosis are numerous, whereas the
disadvantages are negligible. In this article the principle reasons why early
pregnancy examinations are so important to a well-managed breeding program will
be discussed.
By knowing that a mare is not pregnant
before the time she is due to come back into heat, plans can be made to prepare
for another breeding. Although the length of time a mare is in estrus or
"heat" varies somewhat between mares and according to the time of the
year, the length of time a mare is out of heat is fairly consistent,
approximately 15 days. By checking a mare for pregnancy two weeks after she
goes out of heat, if she is not pregnant, plans can be made to either take her
back to the stallion for rebreeding or prepare for another shipment of semen
for artificial insemination. This time frame allows for arrangements to be made
before she comes back into heat, thereby providing ample time so that
the next cycle is not missed and valuable time is not lost. This advanced
warning is also helpful to the manager of the stallion who may need to work the
mare into the breeding schedule. If pregnancy examination is delayed until 18
or 21 days after breeding, the mare may be too close to ovulation (or even just
past ovulation) for rebreeding during that cycle.
Because the length of time between
heats is fairly consistent, if a mare is showing strong signs of heat at the
time of pregnancy examination 12 to 14 days after the last breeding, it is an
indication of some problem causing her to "short cycle." Short
cycling, or coming back into heat before expected, may result from a uterine
infection. Uterine infections cause the release of a hormone, prostaglandin,
that results in a mare returning to estrus. This will result in her having a
shorter than normal interval between estrus periods. Mares that come back into
heat before they are due should be examined for abnormal conditions of the
reproductive tract, including poor conformation, urine pooling, and endometritis,
which could be responsible for the abbreviated diestrus. Likewise, examination
for pregnancy in late diestrus may reveal fluid in the uterus, another abnormal
condition that should be further evaluated.
Article provided by Louisiana State University Equine Veterinary Research Program;
Early Ultrasound Pregnancy Examination Is Critical to Sound
Breeding Program
Written by: Dale Paccamonti, DVM, MS Diplomate, American College of Theriogenologists, Associate Professor of Theriogenology
View the entire article at http://evrp.lsu.edu/06pregus.htm
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Dental Health Important for Equines
Suffering in Silence. It’s what many horses do when they have dental problems. Even though they cannot tell us in words that they are hurting, they can tell us with actions. As a responsible horse owner, it is up to you to know your animal well enough to tell when something is amiss. Most equine specialists recommend that equines have a complete dental check-up once a year, every year. However, if you notice any of the following signs, have them checked as soon as possible.
·
Changes in appetite
·
Very slow chewing
·
Lacerations to the cheek, tongue or lips
·
Swelling of the mouth area
·
Unusually bad breath
·
Holding head at an odd angle when eating
·
Only using one side of the mouth when chewing
·
Noticeably large, un-chewed food particles in
stools
·
Excessive drooling
·
Bleeding from the oral cavity
·
Missing or loose teeth
·
Foul smelling discharge from one side of the
nose
Dr. Jenifer Nadeau, Equine Extension Specialist at the
University of Connecticut, suggests that dental exams be performed at the
following times in a horses life:
Age of Horse
|
Frequency of Dental Exams
|
Birth – 18 months
|
At least once a year
|
18 – 52 months
|
Twice a year
|
4 – 18 years
|
Once a year
|
18 years and older
|
Frequent dental exams to keep mouths healthy and to
determine when a geriatric diet may be needed.
|
Proper dental care allows our horses to live longer,
healthier lives and maintain their body condition. For questions about equine dentals, or for more information
contact your local equestrian veterinarian or extension agent.
Friday, August 31, 2012
Weed Watch- Poisonous Plants
Weed Watch- Poisonous Plants
D. L. Ace, L. J.
Hutchinson, Pennsylvania State U., University Park; G. F. W. Haenlein, U. of
Delaware, Newark (Modified and updated by J-M. Luginbuhl, August 11) Submitted by Eve H. Honeycutt, Livestock Agent,
Lenoir and Greene Counties
This time of year,
pastures are growing too fast to keep the weeds grazed or mowed. Many times you may encounter weeds you
can't identify. How do you know if
it's poisonous? Below is an
excellent article from an NCSU specialist about the symptoms of poisonous plant
ingestion. For help identifying
weeds, contact your Extension office.
Factors contributing to
plant poisoning are starvation, accidental eating and browsing habits of
animals. Starvation is the most common reason. Most woodland or swampy-ground
pastures contain many species of poisonous plants. These are usually eaten only
when animals have nothing else to eat.
Animals accidentally eat
certain plants as they graze. A notable example of this is water hemlock. This
plant emerges in wet areas, which are the first to become green in early
spring. Animals eager to eat the fresh young grass may accidentally bite off
the crown of this plant with fatal results. Another type of accidental
poisoning occurs when large amounts of cockle are present in wheat, which is
fed as grain.
Some animals on good
feed in a dry lot or excellent pasture become bored with the same regular diet.
They may eat unpalatable weeds or ornamental plants growing along fences. Goats
and cattle like to vary the best kind of diet with a little ''browse''. Many
ornamental or wild shrubs may be consumed, not because they are palatable but
because the animal craves variation in its diet.
The severity of
poisoning is related to the quantity of material eaten, the specie of animal eating
the plant, portion of the plant and condition of the plant eaten, level of
ground moisture, general health of the animal prior to ingesting the substance
and the age and size of the animal. Therefore some livestock can eat some of
the bad plants and under several of the mentioned conditions, fail to show
symptoms of injury or poisoning. At other times death may occur.
Scores of plants contain
material toxic to animals if eaten in sufficient quantity. Some of the plants
are well known, some quite rare, some are useful, others are valued
ornamentals. They may be grouped by the type of poison contained, the effect of
their toxins or the part of the plant containing the poison. Some plants may
contain several poisonous principles.
Cyanogenetic Plants
These contain under
certain conditions, prussic acid (hydrocyanic acid), a deadly poison which
interferes with the oxygen-carrying ability of the blood. Death in these cases
is usually rapid and with little outward symptoms. Members of the prunus family
of plants, especially wild cherries, are dangerous. Peaches, plums, wild
cherry, and other stone fruits belong to this group of plants. Wilting of
the green leaves caused by frost, storm damage, or by cutting, changes a
glucoside (glycoside) found in the leaves to hydrocyanic acid (HCN) and sugar.
The sweet, wilted leaves are thus more attractive to animals than normal
foliage. Hydrocyanic acid content varies widely, but under some conditions a
few handfuls of leaves may be enough to kill a horse or cow. This type of
poisoning should be suspected when sudden death of animals follows windstorms
or early sharp frosts. These leaves apparently lose their poison after they
have become dry; the limp, green or partially yellowed leaves are the most
dangerous. Sudan grass and sorghums are also cyanogenetic plants. These
plants are usually deadly when damaged or frozen. Aftermath sprouts following
an early frost are particularly dangerous. Very little sudan grass poisoning
occurs from animals trampling down plants and later eating them although this
is often listed as dangerous. In dry weather, sudan grass is often pastured to
the ground without ill effects. After sudan grass has been repeatedly frozen
and the plants are completely dead, it is safe but not very valuable for
pasture.
Once frozen, sorghum,
sorghum sudan hybrids, or their aftermath should never be pastured. As long as
the plants show any green color they may be very poisonous. Both frosted
sorghum and sudan grass can be best and most safely utilized by ensiling them
for at least two weeks before feeding. Normal ensilage fermentation safely
eliminates the poisonous principle.
Common milkweed, a perennial that grows three or four feet high,
has a heavy stem and leaves and is frequently found in pastures. The milky
white sap is sticky and has a bitter taste but livestock eat the topmost,
tender leaves if good forage isn't abundant. Remove plants by spading, pulling,
cutting or plowing extensive areas and planting to cultivated crops for a year
or two.
Horse nettle is a perennial plant, two-feet-high, with spiny
stems and leaves, and smooth, orange-yellow berries. Fruits are more toxic than
the foliage. It's a common plant in grasslands and fields and is a member of
the nightshade family.
Black nightshade is an annual plant, two-feet high, with many
branches. Leaves are variably smooth or hairy. The stems are angled in
cross-section and sometimes spiny. Clusters of white flowers, one-fourth inch
across, bloom in midsummer and are followed by small, black fruits. Both the
foliage and green berries are toxic. The ripe berries are not poisonous. Black
nightshade is widely distributed.
The following are
excellent websites for more information:
Plants Poisonous to
Livestock and Pets in North Carolina,
Bulletin No. 414 (revised), by James W. Hardin and Cecil F. Brownie.
Poisonous Plants of
North Carolina
Cornell University
Poisonous Plants Informational Database
Monday, August 27, 2012
North Carolina State 4-H Horse Program
Do you have a child who wants to learn more about horses or
interact with other youth who are also horse lovers? If so, the North Carolina 4-H Horse Program offers a number
of projects catering to a wide range of interest and experience levels. Recognized as one of the top youth 4-H horse
programs in the nation, the North
Carolina 4-H Horse Program offers a variety of equine
related activities on the county, district and state levels. Competitive events include Horse Bowl,
Hippology, Horse Judging, Horse Presentation & Public Speaking, and Artistic
Expression & Creative Writing, but for youth who are interested in
non-competitive events the program also offers several Horsemanship Camps,
leadership opportunities, and additional group activities such as trail rides
and retreats. A brief summary of our
various statewide youth activities is listed below:
Horse Bowl-
Use your knowledge of horses and horse-related subject matter to compete in a Jeopardy-like
contest on a four to five member team at the district, state, regional and
national levels.
Hippology-
This contest blends your horse knowledge, judging, and communication
capabilities into one event. Individuals
and four member teams compete on the state, regional and national level.
Horse Judging-
Learn to evaluate equine conformation, breed character, and performance ideals
while developing decision making and communication skills. Individuals and four member teams compete on
the state, regional and national level.
Horse Presentation-
Refine presenting skills while educating other youth by developing an
individual or team presentation on various equine-related topics. Horse presentation contestants compete on the
county, district, state, regional, and national levels.
Horse Public
Speaking- Express your opinion on horse-related subject matter by
developing a public speech specifically targeted to your audience. Individuals will compete on a county,
district, state, regional and national level.
Horse Show-
Compete in various 4-H horse shows at the district, state and regional level in
your respective show division (participation at the state and regional level is
determined by prior qualification).
Horse Project Record
Book- Learn to identify goals, summarize experiences, and record
equine-related activities and accomplishments in a Horse Project Record
Book. These books will be turned in
yearly for review and are available in three different levels suitable to age
and equine knowledge.
Horse Cumulative Record
Book- Summarize your 4-H Horse Program career over a period of years in a
Cumulative Record Book. Individuals will
compete on the district, state and national level.
Horse Artistic
Expression Events- Use your individual artistic talent to create an
equine-related drawing, painting, photograph, poster, or craft that may be
entered in our state-level competitions.
Horse Creative
Writing Events- Improve writing skills by developing a horse-themed essay,
short story or poem that may be entered into our state-level competitions.
Horsemanship Camp-
Attend horsemanship camp with your horse for one week in mid-June. All campers receive riding instruction,
attend equine-related demonstrations, and develop life-long friendships in a
true camp setting at the Millstone 4-H Center in Ellerbe, NC.
In addition to the myriad youth equine activities offered on
the county, district and state levels, the North Carolina 4-H Horse Program has
a long history of success in national level competitions, including an
accumulated 204 championships or reserve championships in educational contests
at the Southern Regional 4-H Horse Championships, the All-American Quarter
Horse Congress, the Eastern National 4-H Horse Roundup and the AQHYA World
Championships.
For more information on the North Carolina 4-H Horse Program, please
visit our website, http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/an_sci/extension/horse/Webpages/NCSU_EHH_Home.html,
or give us a call at (919)-515-5784.
You may also contact your local county 4-H extension agent, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/local-county-center/,
to find out about local 4-H Horse Clubs or additional events.
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