Horses and Stomach Ulcer Disease

Stomach ulcer disease has shown to be highly prevalent in horses, especially with activities that are common this time of year, such as recreational showing.  Strenuous exercise and intense training can increase the likelihood of ulcer development.  Prevention is the best control method of stomach ulcer disease.  To learn more about stomach ulcer disease and to learn how to prevent or treat it, please read this publication from the Deleware Cooperative Extension Service: http://ag.udel.edu/extension/agnr/pdf/Stomach%20Ulcer%20Disease.pdf

Run-In Sheds Make Happy Horses and Help with Fly Control

By Marti Day

Extension Area Specialized Agent

Agriculture – Dairy and Horses

 In our part of the country, I have always believed that barns are for people.  Having grown up in Pennsylvania where we spent better than 2/5’s of the year plowing snow, busting ice on water tanks and stumbling over frozen ground, I’ll concede that there are places in the country where barns are more than just a nice place to store your tack and hang out before and after you ride.  Fortunately for us North Carolinians, a big snow is 4 or 5 inches, melts in two days and all we’ve got left is mud.  Healthy horses are not bothered by most weather or temperature variations, and they can usually be kept outside in a wide range of climates. In extreme conditions, however, pastured horses should have access to some type of shelter. Natural landforms and vegetation may offer some respite from inclement weather. A pasture that has tree lines, hedgerows, creek valleys, or hills can provide a measure of relief from sun, rain, and wind.

In the south, possibly the most important reason for providing shelter for horses is to help us in our efforts to provide relief from biting insects.  Properly built and managed a simple run-in shed can be very beneficial in reducing fly predation.  A typical run-in shed is a three-walled structure that is open on one side. The shed offers protection from the elements while allowing horses to move in and out as they please.  Understanding that everyone has their own “horse keeping” philosophies, I recently heard an analogy that should make us all stop and think:  adjusting for size and weight, keeping a horse in a 12X12 stall is like making a person live in a porta-potty.  Just a bit of food for thought…. Most arguments for keeping a horse in a stall can be lined up in the “easier for the owner”column. Few, if any, fall into the “better for the horse” category.

Keeping the run-in clean and free of fly breeding sites (manure and bedding) will aid in providing a fly-free zone.  Fly baits, sticky traps, automatic spray equipment and fans will also help in keeping fly populations down.  In conjunction with other methods, fly predators can also help us come closer to winning the war.  Several different types of horse fly traps are available commercially to help knock down the number of the big bombers as well.  With the knowledge that the horse fly is the primary insect vector responsible for the transmission of Equine Infectious Anemia, every fly you kill is one less out there laying eggs and potentially contributing to a devastating disease. 

Construction options for run-ins include having the shed professionally designed and built, doing your own design and construction, purchasing a run-in kit or even retrofitting an existing building.  An old tobacco barn, with a little work for horse-proofing, can make a great run-in.   Regardless of your choice, you can avoid mistakes by looking at existing run-ins in your area and talking to local horse owners about good and bad features of sheds on their properties. This is especially helpful if you have recently purchased land and are unfamiliar with weather patterns in the region. Before you build a run-in shed, give some thought to the following considerations.

Use

Besides its primary use as a shelter, the run-in can be a feeding and watering station. It may have a stall or loft to store hay.  It might be the back half of a divided structure that houses farm equipment on the other side. Whatever its use, let the safety of your horses direct the design and materials. Look at all aspects of construction with an eye to preventing situations in which a horse could be trapped, injured, or allowed access to stored feed or machinery.  Be sure to check with your insurance provider before making the decision to store hay in your run-in - some will not allow it due to fire hazard.  Loft hay storage is questionable as it increases particulate matter in the air and may lead to respiratory issues if ventilation is not adequate.   

Location

The construction site should be sloped or graded to allow drainage away from the structure. If the shed will be on a flat area, build up the site with clay or gravel before construction starts. Avoid low spots or areas where water collects after a rain. Place the open side away from prevailing winds. While sheds may adjoin a barn or fence line, building the shelter in an open area of the field ensures that there will always be at least one side that is shady and out of the wind. Situate the shed at some distance from the house to minimize problems with flies or odor. Place the shed closer to existing
buildings if you want to run water or electric lines to it or if you will need to carry hay or grain to the shelter. If possible, situate the shed so you can easily see the interior from outside the field.

Design

Size depends on the climate as well as the number and temperament of the horses that will be using the shed. While 150 square feet per horse is a general rule, you will need more space if your herd contains especially dominant or timid horses. For only a few horses or for those that tend to get along well, somewhat less space can be considered. Standard depths are from 12 to 24 feet (deeper sheds are darker and provide more relief from flies), and common lengths are 24 to 48 feet. If this size will not accommodate all the horses in a field, it may be more practical to put up a second shed than to build one very large shelter. If you plan to use the run-in for feeding hay or grain, allow plenty of space so that all horses can have access to feed racks or buckets. Keep in mind that it is difficult to monitor intake by an individual horse if feeding is done this way.

Materials

The typical run-in shed is made of treated support posts, a frame of 2 x 4 lumber, and a sloping metal roof that allows at least 10 feet of head space. Walls can be made of a variety of materials. Safety is the primary consideration. Metal siding is affordable, strong, easily cleaned, and not subject to rot or mold. A run-in shed with
metal walls must be lined with thick boards or plywood to a height of four or five feet to ensure that a horse cannot be injured by kicking through the wall. Wood sides are strong and safe. Boards must be thick enough to resist breaking if they are kicked. Horses tend to chew boards, and wooden sheds will need more maintenance than metal buildings.
Wood that touches the ground will eventually rot. PVC panels are more expensive than other types of siding, but they last longer, do not need wood lining, and may be the most economical choice over the life of the shed. PVC is safe, easy to clean, and requires less maintenance than other materials.

Ventilation

How can one building provide a shady, breezy loafing area in the summer and a snug, non-drafty shelter in the winter? Situating the shed to block prevailing winds should take care of winter needs. To catch breezes in hot weather, consider adding windows or removable panels high on the back wall. The roof overhang needs to be long enough to keep out blowing rain. Another way to provide summer shade and take advantage of moving air is to extend the roof at the front of the shed, providing a non-walled area where horses can get out of the sun.

Footing

 For a few horses in a dry climate, it may be possible to build the run-in shed without any special surface preparation. Where there is more precipitation or if a larger number of horses use the shed, the ground in and around the shelter will become muddy from rain and waste. To avoid this situation you can put down six inches of gravel covered by crushed rock or dirt, or pave the floor area with rubber blocks, blacktop, or rough-finished concrete.

Maintenance

Even with the sturdiest initial construction, horses will eventually damage any building by chewing, rubbing, and pawing all surfaces and edges. Check frequently for loose boards, protruding bolts or nails, exposed metal edges, and other hazards.

Excerpts from Kentucky Equine Research

Is Fescue the Right Choice for Your Horse Pasture?

This time of year, calls start coming in on pasture management.  What to grow, when to plant, how and when to fertilize, control weeds, etc.  One of the common questions I have experienced this year has been specific to fescue, and whether or not it is a good grazing choice or a concern in pastures.  There are many things to consider if fescue is part of your established pasture or a possible choice for a future pasture. 

Tall Fescue is a very widely used forage, often said the most commonly found pasture grass across the United States.  Fescue is a cool season perennial grass, and even though it is one of the oldest, most commonly found grasses, it has experience many changes and improvements throughout recent years.   Much of the discussion and literature you will find about fescue is regarding an “endophyte” fungus that often comes with the plant.  The word endophyte means that the fungus grows inside the plant, instead of growing on outer portions of the plant as with many other fungi.  The endophyte most often of concern with fescue is Acremnium coenophialum or more recently known as Neotyphoidium coenophialum, and it can only be detected by laboratory analysis.   The problem we often discuss with considering fescue is that the fungus can have an adverse affect on animals grazing the forage, while it does not harm the plant.  Actually, the endophyte is good for the plant, because it helps the grass be more tolerant to close grazing, drought, and pests.  Infected fescue has better seed germination rates, improved tillering, and is more competitive with other plant species than non-infected fescue.    

Preventing Problems with Horses Grazing Fescue: 

Fungus infected fescue is known to cause many problems in grazing animals, specifically referred to as “fescue toxicity”.  For horses in particular, there are many concerns, mostly with regard to broodmares.  Some of the adverse affects of broodmares grazing fescue include abortions, prolonged gestation, dystocia (difficult birth), thick or retained placentas, agalactia (poor milk production), and in worst cases foal or mare death from foaling complications.  Research regarding fescue and a complication from the endophyte fungus began in the 70s and has progressed throughout many land grant universities, revealing similar results.  The overall consensus when managing broodmares is to determine  if endophyte infected fescue is in the pasture and replace this fescue with an alternative, non-infected grass. There are low or non-infected fescue varieties and “endophyte friendly” or “novel” varieties available that are safe for feeding the mare, which contain an edophyte that is non-toxic to the animal but also provide the same benefits to the plant as the toxic endophyte fungus.   The other obvious and sometimes quicker solution is to make sure pregnant mares do not graze these fescue pastures.  Horses in particular (over other livestock species) tend to be extremely sensitive to the endophyte.  Recent studies have indicated that removing the pregnant mare 30-45 days prior to foaling will greatly reduce problems with foaling and lactation, while initial research recommended removal for 90 days prior to foaling.  In the event that a mare must remain on a fescue pasture, research has shown that she can be treated with a daily oral dose of the drug domperidome for 10-15 days prior to foaling.  Treatment can also be conducted after foaling to assist with milk production if preventative treatment wasn’t offered. Be sure to contact your veterinarian for guidance and advice on treating mares with domperidome.

How do I know if I have infected fescue?

If your pasture is primarily fescue grass and you want to determine what percent is infected, sampling is the best method.  Samples of plant stems should be taken randomly throughout the field, and sent for laboratory analysis.  The NC Department of Agriculture offers a fescue endophyte testing service for fescue grass or seed.  Grass samples in NC are $15, while seed is $15 or $25 depending on the seed crop.  For specific instructions on how to take and send a sample for analysis, horse owners should either contact their local NC Cooperative Extension office or contact the NCDA at 919-733-3930 or visit the website: http://www.ncagr.gov/plantindustry/seedandfertilizer/seed/Endophyte.htm .  A descriptive brochure is available with details on sampling and submission of the sample.  Once you have determined what percent of the pasture is infected, steps can be taken to remove or replace the infected fescue with more desirable forages, depending on the situation.

I hope this has helped explain the concerns with horses and other equines grazing fescue, and how to prevent or solve associated problems.  For additional assistance, contact your local county Extension Center.  

Fly Control Tips

Fly season is on us, and the swishing of horses' tails trying to fight off these pests can be heard everywhere.  Here are some tips that may help you control flies this season:

1. Practice good sanitation! Good sanitation around your barn is the single most effective method of fly control. In order to reduce fly breeding location, you need to remove wet bedding and manure from stalls and areas where horses often stand often – normally at least once a week, but during peak fly season, it should be removed at least once every 2-3 days. This material should be land applied within a few days or composted. Composting areas should be covered and well drained. Remove water bucket that are not in use. This will keep the water (especially water that has become dirty!) from becoming a breeding ground for flies and mosquitoes. Don’t just pile up the manure “out back” – compost it.  Keeping the manure dry can help prevent flies laying eggs since they prefer to lay eggs in moist manure.  Composting the manure raises the temperature high enough so that any eggs laid in the manure are destroyed.

2. Provide deep shade or a barn for horse to go into during the day. Flies generally do not like dark places, especially pesky blood sucking horse flies.

3. Use fly masks for horses. These meshed masks, which prevent the flies’ access to the eyes and face, are placed on the face of the horse.  These work particularly well if the horse is sensitive to flies around the eyes or they won't tolerate sprays or wipes on their face. However, these masks do have a disadvantage in that they can be pulled off by snagging on brush, fence, or by the horse scratching its face.

4. Use methods of mechanical control! Water traps (Terminator, Trap-N-Toss, etc) or sticky ribbons help reduce the need for pesticides. These should be hung in throughout the barn at about one per every 1,000 square feet of area that flies may breed. For increased success, hang the traps where they can be easily inspected and maintained but out of the way of traffic flow throughout the barn.  Water traps and ribbons will probably need to be cleaned and recharged or replaced about once every two weeks. The traps and ribbons can be very effective in controlling flies if they are put in place early and maintained correctly,

Build a tabanid(horse fly trap). These traps are placed in the field about 15 to 20 feet from the wood line. As horses enter the dark shade of the woods, horse flies, deer flies, and black flies leave the horse and rest outside the tree line and move back to the horse once they leave the woods. The tabanid trap attracts the flies as they leave the horse and are trapped inside where they die. A Canopy Trap For Horse Fly Control can be found at http://alamance.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/1/TABANID_Trap.pdf

5. Pesticide Use: Scatter baits containing methomyl (Apache or Blue Malrin) are very effective. The bait can be sprinkled in areas throughout the barn where flies tend to gather but where humans and animals won't be at risk for exposure to the bait. Avoid sprinkling the bait under the horse's feed trough or hayrack. It's not likely that the horse would eat enough of the bait to become sick, but it's better to be safe than sorry. The bait also works well when sprinkled over wet zones in the horse's stall after these areas have been cleaned and covered with fresh bedding. Pyrethrum is commonly used in fogging systems. Since it is non-residual, continuous misting or fogging periodically may be needed during the peak fly season.

There are some "feed through" type products (insect growth regulators or IGR’s) also available. These IGR’s prevent the fly larvae from hatching in the fecal patties. These products do not keep flies off of horses. They simply help reduce the overall fly population. If using this type of product, it is necessary to use fly repellants on the horse and for these IGR’s to be most effective should be fed continuously and to all horses in the barn. Adult flies will continue to be a nuisance for several weeks after treatment has begun. Fortunately, this type of treatment has little or no effect on beneficial insects that might feed on flies in the barn. In addition, if there are other horses on neighboring farms, they too should be on the product for best results since flies have a 5 mile flying radius.

Use of fly repellants. There are numerous fly repellants on the market. They include sprays, wipe ons, pesticide impregnated bonnets, etc. Each application method comes with several different types of pesticides. Some products work better than others and some cost more than others. Which one works the best? Horse owners must try different ones until they find the one or combination that works for them. It is advisable however, to look at the label to see the active ingredient and alternate pesticide types from year to year to prevent fly resistance.

If you use a premise spray to spray the walls of stalls, isle way, etc. Be sure to use a product that is labeled as a premise spray around livestock or livestock facilities.

6. Biological control: Release parasitic wasp. Parasitic wasps are effective in reducing the need for pesticides when used along with good sanitation practices.

Parasitic wasp feed on fly larvae which helps reduce the overall fly population. These wasps do not sting people or horses. They can be ordered and received in the mail to be released every 2-3 weeks during the fly season. In fact, pesticides should not be used, or must be minimized in areas where parasitic wasps have been released. Female wasps deposit eggs in fly pupae and when the wasp eggs hatch, the larvae consume the fly pupae from the inside out. Therefore a new wasp will emerge in about 14 days instead of a new fly. As in feed through larvacides, parasitic wasps work best if neighboring farms are using them also.

7. Last but probably one of the most important things for parasite control: Drag pastures to scatter and break up manure piles. Scattering the manure helps them to dry out which makes them undesirable for fly larvae hatch. Does dragging pastures also scatter internal parasite larvae? Yes, however, breaking up the manure patties also makes a less favorable environment for parasite larvae hatch also, especially if done in hot/dry weather. In addition, most horses are on a regular parasite control program which helps keep down the parasite load both on the pasture and in the horse.

Here are some links that may provide additional information:

INSECT CONTROL FOR LIVESTOCK AND POULTRY

- NC Ag Chemical Manual - http://ipm.ncsu.edu/agchem/5-toc.pdf

HORSE FLIES AND DEER FLIES

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/horsefly.htm

Fly Problems Around Poultry, Livestock and Horse Farms

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/storm/st-flies.htm

INSECTS FOUND IN FORAGE AND PASTURE

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/forage/past&for/past&for.html