Tools for Forage Sampling

Forage quality and forage testing has been the topic of several blog postings from several of our writers. This is just one of those topics that can’t be emphasized enough.  The one thing that has prompted me to write about tools for forage sampling is the fact that a horse owner in Granville County has inquired about getting her own hay sampling tool!  After borrowing one from the Cooperative Extension Center for quite a while, this person has decided to purchase one for the farm.  On a previous occasion, she had borrowed a hay bale probe that attached to a drill and taken the samples with relative ease.  That time, however, the cutting bit was broken on the drill- run hay probe and the only other one available was one that the operator just pushes into the bale.  It worked fine, but a push-type bale probe works better when there is some mass behind it to push it in.  They decided that a drill with the sampling tool is the way to go.  Now that the farm is getting a new load of hay about every three months and the farm operators want to know what they are feeding to their horses, they have decided to make the investment in their own forage probe.

I haven’t really heard much discussion about tools for testing forages for quality, so I though a few words on this topic might be appropriate.  Let’s list the types of tools used and their characteristics.  The most basic of forage testing tools is either the right or left hand.  Sometimes both hands are needed.  We can take what is called a grab sample of several bales in a cutting or load, put the collected composite sample into a large zip-lock bag and send that off for testing.  The lab will take the sample, grind it up, dry it down and conduct the other tests as desired.  The grinding step takes a lot more time due to the long stems and leaves. Caution must be used sampling bales that contain briers, Carolina horsenettle, or sandburs.

The next type I’ll mention is the push-in bale probe.   As the name suggests, this probe is designed to be pushed into bales using our own body weight and strength.  The bit must be sharp for best results.  When all works well, this type of probe does a great job with a little effort.  However, if the bit is not sharp, or the operator doesn’t have a lot of mass available to push the probe into bales, a little effort can become a lot, creating a pretty tiresome job.  The pieces of forage sampled are cut into short lengths, which the lab technician can grind and dry pretty quickly.

The third type is one that connects to a drill, preferably cordless.  This type of probe has a bit with small cutting teeth on the end that cuts the forage into those short lengths for the lab.  The effort of pushing the probe into the bale is less, and the drill is helping by turning the probe allowing the cutting bit to do its job.  Here is one word of caution when using this type of bale probe.  Be sure to have a drill that can handle heavy duty.  As the probe goes deeper into the bale, the more resistance it encounters.  That resistance slows the drill, so the operator must be careful to not overheat or burn out the drill.  The better the bale is formed, square or round, the more resistance felt while taking the sample.

Those are the three types of hay probes/sampling devices that I’m aware of.  All work well to take forage samples.  More consistent samples can be taken using one of the tools designed for taking forage samples.  The main key in getting a good forage test result is to be sure to take several sub-samples from multiple bales in a load or from a cutting.  Mix the sub-samples together and fill up a gallon storage bag to send to the lab.  Ideally, each field and each cutting from each field would be sampled, but getting a good composite sample from each cutting is more feasible for most operations.

Several places will test the forage, including the NCDA&CS, and other places such as Dairy-One.   For most of us, the NCDA &CS lab does a great job.  Sample analysis costs $10 per sample, and the horse owner knows just what nutrients are provided from forage and what will need to be supplemented. This is a case where a $10 investment can pay great dividends in cost savings by not overfeeding protein or energy to our horses.  A nutritionist’s job is made much easier by having good data to work with when figuring out what to feed. 

To sum up, this article is about getting a good sample of forage, which tools can be used to take samples, and why forage sampling is important.  Even if the most basic tools are used, we can still get a representative sample that provides good information to use in feeding horses.

Severe Weather Prep

Summer brings in all sorts of joys and fun, however it can bring some nasty storms as well.  Now is the time to make sure you have your barns and pastures prepped for any type of weather that might come your way.

Tornadoes:  During a strong wind event of any type (Hurricanes included) your animals are safer outside.  They have a natural instinct to turn away from the wind to keep wind and water out of their faces.  Being confined inside a barn can cause anxiety as well as injury/death in the event that your barn be blown down.

Lightning:  If you are experiencing a lightning storm your horses are safer inside the barn.  Lightning strikes the tallest object so if your horse is in the middle of a field they will be the target.  Keep them inside a barn away from the tallest point (if your barn is an "A" frame) and keep them out of standing water.  Also you can install a lightning rod and have a grounding system in place for your barn.

Drought:  You have plenty of time to prepare for a drought.  I suggest having a drought plan regardless of what the weatherman has said.  Here are some things to consider:

• Stockpile hay if possible. Identify backup sources for hay.
• Identify alternate water sources. This is especially important if you rely on surface water or a shallow well. A horse's water intake needs increase during hot, dry periods.
• Be alert to fire hazards. The risk of fire increases during a drought.
• Remove horses from pasture to maintain the health of the pasture and the horses.
• Look for poisonous plants. When feed is short, or horses are hungry, plants normally avoided become a tempting source of feed.

Flood:  On the coastline we are well aware of the dangers associated with flooding.  Flash flooding can occur during any significant rain event whether short lived or a few days long.  Have a plan in place and watch the weather to keep your horses (and other outside animals safe).

• Have an evacuation plan.
• Watch for down power lines.
• Have an electrical generator and supply of fuel ready on higher ground. A generator is a critical piece of equipment to have during a power outage.
• Scout for debris before returning horses to paddocks and pastures. Significant amounts of debris can be deposited in pastures and paddocks after a flood.
• Listen for reports of infectious disease outbreaks. Outbreaks of diseases such as anthrax or Potomac Horse Fever can occur among animals in some areas of the country, particularly during hot weather that immediately follows a flood.

Always be prepared for the worse and hope for the best!  Check out this link for more information on Barn Prepping:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/agriculture/horse/care/barn-disaster-planning/#Severe_weather

Importance of Proper Footing

It’s important for you and your horse to have a safe, level, and durable surface on which to ride. This is not simply achieved by making a fence, filling the arena with dirt or sand and going on your way! It actually takes quite a bit of work (and a little science) to improve your riding arena and make it the best it can be.

For your horse’s health, you should consider putting some effort into your riding arena’s surface. One that is too hard can lead to bone, joint, and hoof injuries. An arena that is too soft can also be damaging to the soft tissues of your horse. Making sure your surface is level is also important to your horse’s confidence and preventing unnecessary injuries.

                

The foundation underneath the footing provides a base for your arena, the better and more stable this is, the better your riding arena. Unstable bases, such as crushed concrete, can be detrimental; limestone or asphalt may be more ideal. Leveling the arena out or maybe adding a slight incline toward the center can keep too much water from accumulating in the arena and damaging the footing. A good drainage system, perforated pipes and all, is particularly important for outdoor arenas.

                

The top layer should provide 3-6” of stable, even footing for your horse. Angular sand is advisable for jumping and dressage riders for surface stability. Depending on your riding style, you may need to change the footing type.  It is also important to take the possible weather into consideration, even if sand is your main ingredient, adding rubber or fiber can reduce compaction.

                

Proper maintenance, as with anything, is key! An arena may benefit from daily maintenance if used by many horses, if fewer animals are using the arena it may be fine to do it on a weekly basis. Make sure you monitor your specific arena and follow proper guidelines to ensure your horse, and you, have the best possible environment on which to ride.

Check out this document from the FEI for more information on proper footing: http://www.fei.org/system/files/Equestrian_Surfaces-A_Guide.pdf

               

Weaning Tips

Weaning Tips 

Weaning can be an exciting time for horse owners but it can also be stressful on all involved.  Here are some tips to help during this transition:

• Try not to wean before the foal is four months old.  This is a crucial period for the development of not just the immune system, but of the foals’ natural behavior as well.  Foals weaned too early require intense nutritional and behavioral management.  Early weaned foals will require bottle feedings every two hours in the early weeks and every four to six hours after the first few weeks.  This requires a significant amount of manpower and the additional cost of having to purchase milk replacer.  On the contrary, however, if a mare has an undesirable disposition or vices it can be beneficial to wean as soon as advisable to prevent the foal from learning the unwanted behaviors.  The benefit should be weighed against the risk for the use of early weaning.   With even the earliest weaned foals, care should be taken to assure that the foal receives a good amount of colostrum from the mother in the first 24 hours.  This will help reduce the chances of Failure of Passive Transfer occurring in the foal.
• Use a creep feeder several weeks before the weaning date to help with the transition to a grain and forage only diet.  The creep feeder should allow for safe entry and exit while restricting mares from gaining access.  One should take into consideration the quick increase in foal height in the period prior to weaning and use a gate that allows for easy height adjustment.  Foals tend to eat small amounts of creep feed frequently and amounts can vary from day to day.  Providing small allotments throughout the day, such as when the mare is being fed, reduces overfeeding and spoilage. 
• Use feed made specifically for creep feeding.  Creep feed should contain 14-16% crude protein, about 0.8% Calcium and 0.5% Phosphorus to ensure a correct energy balance for the foals.  The feed should also contain additional vitamins and minerals needed for growth and development.  The creep feed should be highly palatable, and the use of pelleted or extruded feed is the most desirable, as it cuts down on sorting for preferred individual ingredients.
• Begin with general good behavior habits, such as brushing, haltering, and leading, prior to weaning.  It is never too early to start these basic good manner practices.  A foal can begin being haltered within a few days after birth and should be very comfortable with these basics by weaning.
• Make sure the foal is in good health by sticking to a vaccination and deworming schedule prior to weaning.  Work with a veterinarian who is familiar with your farm, location and practices to ensure the foal is in good health prior to weaning.  There are several vaccines that are recommended between three and six months including WNV, EEE, WEE, tetanus, strep. Equi and EHV.
• Choose a weaning strategy based on your resources.  The management level of your farm, facilities available and the temperament of the mare and foal are all considerations when choosing a weaning system.  Weaning systems can range from the abrupt separation of foal and mare, to a gradual, progressive separation.  Separating the foal and mare abruptly usually involves complete removal of contact, including sight, sound and smell, and tends to be more stressful on the foal.  This method is usually done by moving the mare to another turn out area or moving the foal into a confinement completely separate from any mare contact.   If this method is used it can be helpful to wean other foals of the same age and size, or if there are no other foals available, a companion goat or yearling of agreeable disposition may be used.  The more progressive method of weaning involves using a physical barrier between the mare and foal, such as an enclosure with a common side, which allows for the mare and foal to see, smell and hear each other but does not facilitate nursing.  This arrangement can be kept for several days to a week until the foal feels more comfortable being on its own.  No matter which system you choose, keeping the foal in familiar surroundings and preconditioning the foal to solid feed greatly reduces the stress of weaning.
• Take measures to ensure the mare’s comfort during weaning.  Most mares will calm more quickly than their foals, resuming normal behavior within a few hours to several days, depending on if they have had a foal weaned before.  If the mare is still producing milk, her grain intake should be reduced and exercise increased to help her dry up.  If her udder is still tight after four days and has an increased temperature, she should be checked for mastitis.

This covers the main things to take into consideration before beginning to wean a foal, however, every case is different and other considerations may need to be made for each individual weaning.  Planning and preparation will help to reduce stress on the owner and hopefully make a smoother transition for the foal and mare.

Surviving Mosquito Season

Most people aren't a fan of the pesky mosquito.  Their high pitched buzzing and annoying persistence are enough to ruin even the most pleasant trail ride.  However, horse owners have another reason to dislike mosquitoes.  There are 3 major diseases that can be transmitted by mosquitoes: Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (WEE), Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE), and the West Nile Virus (WNV).  While these diseases are becoming less and less common in the United States, knowing the cause, clinical signs, treatment, and, most importantly, how to prevent these diseases can be the difference between saving your horse and losing your horse.

West Nile Virus (WNV)

Source: http://www.ahsequilink.co.za/west-nile-virus/

WNV is a type of virus that causes encephalitis, the inflammation of the brain.  The virus is usually transmitted from wild birds to horses via mosquitoes.  Symptoms of WNV typically occur between 3-14 days after being bitten by an affected mosquito.  Clinical signs include: loss of appetite, depression, fever (101 degree Fahrenheit or higher for 2 or more days), weakness or paralysis of hind legs, impaired vision, and paralysis.  Some horses, however, may be infected with WNV without ever showing clinical signs.  If you think your horse is infected with WNV, call your Veterinarian immediately.  Treatment of WNV includes supportive therapy, anti-inflammatory medications (sometimes including corticosteroids), and intravenous fluids.

Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (WEE) and Easter Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE)

Source: https://easternequineencephalitis.wordpress.com/

WEE and EEE are transmitted to horses from wild birds via mosquitoes, just like WNV.  In addition, WEE and EEE are caused by viruses from the same family (Togaviradae), so the early stages of these diseases are also similar.  After being bitten by an affected mosquito, it may take anywhere from 3-10 days for horses to start showing signs of the virus.  Early clinical signs are nonspecific for both WEE and EEE and include: severe fever (103-106 degree Fahrenheit) that lasts for 24-28 hours, poor appetite, and stiffness.  Many cases of WEE do not progress beyond this point; however, with EEE, progression is certain.  EEE is a fast acting virus, so horses will develop chronic symptoms - propulsive walking (or "staggering"), blindness, circling, uncontrollable muscle trembling in their face and legs, paralysis of the pharynx, larynx, and tongue, and inability to stand - only 2 to 4 days after the first clinical signs appear.  If left untreated, EEE will result in complete paralysis and death.  Call your Veterinarian immediately if you suspect that your horse has EEE or WEE.  There is no cure for either EEE or WEE.  The mortality rate for these diseases ranges from 75-100% (EEE) and 20-50% (WEE).  Catching these diseases in their early stages are key.  Around the clock intensive nursing and Veterinarian care can save an infected horse's life; however, since the viruses attack the nervous system horses that survive WEE or EEE are likely to suffer brain damage.

Prevention is the best protection against WNV, WEE, and EEE.  Vaccinating horses in the early spring with either a "3-way" (protects against EEE, WEE, and tetanus) or a "4-way" (protects against EEE, WEE, tetanus, and influenza) is highly recommended.  Notice that neither a "3-way" nor a "4-way" protect against WNV.  There are several licensed vaccines available, so be sure to ask your Veterinarian what would work best for you and your horse.  These vaccines only last for 6-8 months, though.  So remember to vaccinate your horses annually (or even twice a year if you live in an area heavily infested with mosquitoes).

You can also protect your horses by limiting the amount of contact they have with mosquitoes by:

• Using insect repellents to prevent bites,
• Having fans in barns and stables to blow mosquitoes off horses,
• Covering horses with fly sheets,
• Avoiding outdoor activities at dawn or dusk when mosquitoes are most active (especially around stagnant water), or
• Removing standing water - such as water found in old tires, pet bowls, kiddie pools, buckets, ect.

For more information: http://animalscience.uconn.edu/extension/publications/mosquito.htm