Livestock and Lightning

Unfortunately, a call has already come into the Extension office about livestock being killed by lightning this year.  With spring here and summer storms not far away, it may be a good time for a refresher on keeping animals safe.  Of course, different types of livestock typically warrant various kinds of care and shelter, a lot of which is dependent upon owner’s preference.  Here are some points to keep in mind:

-Be aware if storms are forecasted.  Knowing what's coming and having a plan to deal with it are the first steps in protecting livestock.

-Lightning’s main goal is to seek the easiest pathway to Earth; the most likely area for a strike is toward higher elevations

-Higher elevations can include hilltops and hillside pastures.  Other relatively tall objects are also attractive to lightning bolts – these can include single trees or even animals.  Power lines and wire/metal fences can also be seen as pathways to Earth.  Add moisture/rain and animals, and the pasture suddenly looks enticing to lightning. 

-Ungrounded barns can be a potential problem as well.  So a small, ungrounded barn may not be the best place for animals during a thunderstorm.  If you have your barn grounded, make sure it is done correctly. 

-If a grounded barn is not an option, safe havens can include a grounded, three-sided shed, lower elevations and a stand of trees.  Lightning prefers single trees over a group of trees.  However, a stand of trees does not guarantee lightning won’t strike there.  Fence out single trees so animals won’t congregate under them.

-Of course, all these suggestions sound good, but we all know that Mother Nature can be unpredictable.  Just because we do all these things to protect our animals does not guarantee their safety. 

-Another concern with storms can be wind.  Pick up debris or secure objects that may become airborne prior to a storm.  Flying objects can be potentially dangerous.

-Both flash flooding and prolonged flooding can be a problem.  Be aware of the flooding potential of your land and take appropriate actions. 

If you lose animals due to lightning, you may be eligible for compensation through the Livestock Indemnity Program.  Contact your local Farm Service Agency for details. 

Be Ready to Make Horse Quality Hay!

Many horse owners purchase all the hay used in feeding their horses, but there are also a lot of folks who cut, rake, bale, and store their own hay for use with their horses.  Many other folks make hay to sell to horse owners, so this article should be useful to a lot of folks in the horse and hay business.

Now is the time to make sure that all the hay equipment is ready to go, as grass is growing (once we get consistent days above freezing) and is set to really take off for the spring flush of grass growth.  Cool-season forages have their peak production in the spring and another good production season in the fall.  Since we are pretty near to the beginning of the spring hay season, it is high time to check over all the hay equipment and make sure it is serviceable and ready to make hay without having breakdowns. 

For all powered equipment, start at the PTO shaft.  Remove the shields and make sure that all the grease fittings will accept grease and that the shaft is well greased.  Replace any shields that are worn or non-functional.  Check the seals and bearings at the gearbox to make sure that there are no leaks and that the bearings are good.  Make sure that there is enough oil in the gearbox. 

For disc mowers, check the knives on the drums and replace any that are broken.  If the shroud is torn or too worn, replace that to keep material from being thrown.  If using a haybine or mower/conditioner, make sure that the roller bearings are good and that they are greased.  Replace any grease fittings that won’t accept grease.  Check the tires for wear or punctures and replace if needed.

For wheel rakes, be sure that all tines are in good working order, and that the wheel bearings on the wheels and on the rake wheels are good and well greased.  For side-delivery rakes that are ground driven, check the drive shaft, the grease fittings, etc. and make sure that the shaft is greased and that the fittings work.  While these don’t break down as often as some other powered equipment, any breakdown in the hay field costs in time and hay quality.  Make sure the tines aren’t broken on any type of rake.

Many people like to use a hay tedder to fluff up the hay to allow air to circulate so hay will dry more quickly.  These are mostly pto-driven, so the comments above apply here as regards the pto shaft and the gear boxes.  Tines, tires and wheel bearings should be checked, too.

The baler is the final piece in the hay production sequence (of course omitting hauling the stuff!) For round balers, do the pto and gearbox checks, then check the pick-up tines, drive belts and chains, and sprockets for wear and slack.  If all adjustment has been made to keep these tight and they are still loose, consider replacing the belts or shortening the drive chains.  Loose chains and belts lead to slippage in the power train, broken belts, worn sprockets and a host of other problems.   Check the bale-forming belts and make sure they haven’t stretched so far that a tight bale can’t be made.  Again, if all adjustment has been made to keep the bales tight, then the bale chamber belts may need replacement.  Relieve the tension on the bale chamber rollers and check the roller bearings.  If any feel rough, it is easier to replace while in the shop than it is in the field, so go ahead and do so.  (It is recommended to store round balers with the tension off the belts so as to not develop a flat spot in the roller bearings).  If using bale wrap, make sure the wrap roller doesn’t have a rough spot that will catch the wrap and prevent it from feeding around the finished bale.

For square balers, run the same checks for pickup tines, the pto, etc. Make sure all grease fittings work.  Make sure that the knives are sharp and that the feeder is timed with the plunger, forks, and knotters.  Look for worn parts and replace as necessary.  Make sure that twine will feed properly and that the knotters are set to tie a good knot in the twine.  If any tensioning springs are broken, be sure to replace them or it will not be possible to make a tight bale.

Many balers have hydraulic components.  Make sure that the hoses are not cracked and that there are no leaks.  CAUTION – do not check for leaks with fingers while the hydraulic system is pressurized!  Use a piece of paper or something else not covered with skin to check for leaks.  Hydraulic oil under pressure will be driven into and under the skin, causing health problems.  Of course, leaks that can be found without powering up the system means a hose or fitting needs replacing right away.

While this article is not intended to be a safety article, be sure to replace all shields once the work is finished.  The shields on farm equipment are there to make using equipment safer.  Making hay is hazardous enough without increasing the chance of serious injury by removing shields or by not replacing worn safety gear.  There are also many other parts on hay equipment to check that I did not mention.  Refer to the owner’s manual for equipment maintenance schedules.

A little attention now will pay dividends by reducing the number of breakdowns during hay-making weather.  Avoiding a breakdown can make the difference between making “horse hay” and making roadside mulch.  As I read in Hay and Forage Grower magazine, it is a lot easier to make repairs in the shop than laying under a baler on top of a fire ant mound.

A Bit About Bits

Written by:  Alicia Spence

Person County Cooperative Extension Service Intern

All of us want what is best for our horses. We all know the importance of the proper equipment. Misfit saddles, girths and headstalls cause discomfort and sometimes behavioral problems with our horses. Bits have unique characteristics that make them better for a certain horse. Each bit has its own purpose and helps with each horse's discipline and level of training. Choosing the right bit for your horse and your riding ability will cause better communication and can fix behavioral problems.

Each section of the bit puts either horizontal or vertical pressure on the horse's mouth. The bars are where the bit most successfully communicates with the horse. This is where the most pressure will be admitted to your horse's mouth. The Meredith Manor’s article on bit selection says it best, “These gaps between the front teeth and the back teeth on either side of the jaw consist of tissue-covered, pressure-sensitive cartilage. Between the bars, the bit lays across and presses against the horse's tongue. Depending on its shape and adjustment, a bit can also put pressure on the horse's lips and on the roof of its mouth. Pressures on the lips are the least effective because the lips are an unstable surface and easily injured.” When considering which bit will fit best with you and your horse, think about your riding ability, the horse's training level and the discipline you participate in.

The first thing to look at when purchasing a bit should be what surface of the horse’s mouth the bit will contacting. Thin bits will apply more pounds of pressure than a wider bit. This will determine how noticeable the rein pressure will be to the horse. So, a horse trained to acknowledge subtle rein cues would not need a thin bit because it would pick up those cues with a thicker bit. On the other hand, a thinner bit would be better for a horse that requires more pressure with the reins.

The next aspect of a bit to consider would be if the bit is curved or straight. A bit that is curved relieves the pressure the bit puts on the tongue. A curved bit also puts more pressure on the bars. A straight bit however, will put more pressure on the tongue and relieve some pressure on the bars. Curved bits tend to be used in western riding or dressage, while straight bits (with no breaks) tend to be used in English riding. Curved bits encourage the head to be held vertical and higher.  Also, shanks on a bit contribute to the position of the horse's head. Shanks apply pressure to the horse’s poll. When a curb strap in put on the bit it will also put pressure on the bottom of the horse's chin.

Basic types of bits are Snaffle, Curb, and Pelham. There are also headstalls that require no bit, such as the Hackamore, and bit combinations where the headstall holds two bits. Snaffle bits are used for direct pressure on the bars, tongue and corners of the mouth. Curb bits put pressure on the mouth, poll and chin groove. A Pelham bit is a single curb bit with two sets of reins attached used for horizontal and vertical pressure. Bit combinations that have two bits with two sets of reins attached are used mostly in dressage where complex cues are needed. Hackamores are used to apply pressure to the face, nose, chin and poll. There are many variations to each of these bits. 

No matter what bit is chosen, if used incorrectly, the bit can cause discomfort or even harm to your horse. Novice riders should stay focused on rein cues and should not balance by using the reins. Aways keep in mind that each bit creates a different pressure and sensation. When changing bits, allow the horse time to learn how the cues feel with the new bit. 

Here are some extra resources that can provide a better understanding of each bit’s use.

http://articles.extension.org/pages/10858/understanding-bits-for-horses-learning-lesson

http://www.kbrhorse.net/tra/bits01.html

http://www.equisearch.com/article/how-to-choose-a-bit-for-a-horse-20464

http://www.wikihow.com/Choose-a-Bit-for-a-Horse  (size and measurement of the bit)

Understanding Equine Acupuncture

Acupuncture is the practice of stimulating acupoints (specific points on the body loaded with nerve cells, lymphatic and blood vessels) by the strategic placing of very thin needles.  Stimulation of acupoints can be achieved one of several ways including the dry-needle technique, electro-acupuncture, aqua-acupuncture, pneumo-acupuncture and a few lesser known forms.

Equine Acupoints

Dry-needle acupuncture is when a dry needle is inserted to the acupoint.  This is the most recognized acupuncture technique.  Electro-acupuncture uses dry-needles attached to a machine that applies a controlled electric shock and is generally considered more effective than the dry-needle method alone.  The aqua-acupuncture approach injects soluble, sterile liquids (water, saline or a vitamin solution) into the acupoint which acts as the constant pressure needed for acupoint stimulation.  Pneumo-acupuncture uses small amounts of purified air right under the skin, above the acupoints, creating effective stimulus.  

Dry-needle Acupuncture

Research is constantly being done on “alternative” therapies to traditional veterinary medicine but so far clinical trials have suggested that equine acupuncture improves a variety of conditions including but not limited to infirmities of muscles and bones, neurological disorders, gastrointestinal ailments, fertility, endocrine diseases, dermatological issues, a myriad of other chronic issues as well as pain management and geriatric horse health.  While some effects are felt right away or soon after the initial treatment, additional treatments are almost always needed.  Of course, the total number of treatments required depends on factors such as age of the animal, duration of symptoms and whether or not it is a degenerative problem that will require maintenance treatment sessions for the rest of the animal’s life.

Electro-Acupuncture

 For more information about Acupuncture Practitioners in your area, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office.  It is also recommended that you speak to your Large Animal Veterinarian before making any changes to or adding therapies to your horse’s existing health care regimen.