Benefits of Massage Therapy

You probably know how beneficial massage and bodywork can be to a person, but you may not realize these treatments can also benefit your horse.  I sometimes liken it to piggy-back rides.  If you were to take a toddler and carry that toddler around on your back for half an hour, bouncing around and even just sitting still, don’t you think your back would feel it? So does your horse.

Any athlete can tell you about the benefits of massage.  It helps loosen muscles that are tight, release adhesions or “knots” and also increases blood flow.  

There are various types of massage and bodywork and each horse is different in their pressure comfort.  Some horses prefer a trigger point therapy, such as Equissage.   This consists of lighter pressure that brings focus onto a certain area.  Some horses prefer a deep tissue type of massage which puts more pressure on a larger area.  Some prefer lighter, gentler strokes, such as used in a myofascial release.  Each type of massage is different and can be used in conjunction with each other.

You may have a horse that continues to hollow out and refuses to use itself.  Maybe he won’t pick up a lead or isn’t as flexible.  Perhaps he bucks under saddle. You both may have been involved in a fall or accident and now something just “isn’t quite right.” Perhaps your horse isn’t stubborn or untrainable, but he’s in pain and has no way to tell you.

Like human massage, many ailments will not be relieved in one session.  Many of your horse’s ailments have been built up over years.  Repetition of the same motion without relief can cause the muscles to tighten and adhere.  Normally it takes two to four sessions, depending on the severity, and then at minimum, monthly maintenance should be performed creating a horse that is not only happier, but more able.  Massage therapists are able to feel what is going on with your horse’s muscles.  The horse and rider will continue to work as a team after bodywork is performed.

Yes, some think massage is just a bunch of holistic mumbo jumbo.  But until you try it and see the benefits not only to your horse but to you as well, it is definitely something to consider.

Genny Thompson, LMBT, CESMT

Horse Hound Human Massage Therapy

Posted by Eileen Coite, Sampson County Cooperative Extension

Converting Pastures to a Novel Endophyte Fescue

There are thousands of acres across North Carolina and the Southeast that are producing Fescue forage.  The majority of those pastures and hay fields are Kentucky 31 Fescue.  This variety of Fescue has been around since the early 1800’s and was introduced as a forage variety back in the 1940’s. For decades K-31 has been the premier cool-season forage.  It is tough, very productive, can be good quality, and stands last a long time. 

Over time, folks noticed that there were some animal health problems that could develop if livestock and horses grazed fescue stands or were fed fescue hay.  Cattle had rough hair coats, didn’t gain as they should, and sometimes developed “fescue foot”.  Horse owners noticed that foals had thicker membranes to fight through at birth, to name some of the problems that developed.

The endophyte fungus was discovered in the plant, and was determined to be the cause of the animal problems that developed when feeding or grazing fescue.  After a LOT of research, endophyte-free fescue varieties were introduced.  Farmers tried these, and found that the grass just didn’t last more than three or four years.  Who would have guessed that there was a symbiotic relationship between fescue grass and endophyte fungus?  This relationship was what made K-31 Fescue such a good productive grass that stays productive for a long time without having to be reseeded.

After more research, some “novel” endophyte fescue varieties have been introduced.  The endophyte in these varieties is known as novel since this endophyte has been found to be non-toxic to livestock and horses.  It would seem like all one has to do to get rid of the toxic, or what is called “dirty” endophyte, is to overseed with one of the new varieties.  Unfortunately, it’s not that easy.  The K-31 Fescue will still out-compete the newer varieties over time.  More drastic measures are needed to establish a novel endophyte variety of fescue.

To establish a novel endophyte fescue, get ready to spray the field next spring after the grass starts growing with glyphosate.  Wait six weeks or so and make another glyphosate application.  Let the field sit fallow through the summer or plant a summer annual, harvest the summer annual, and make another glyphosate application if needed in early September.  Follow that application up by using a no-till seeder to plant a novel endophyte variety.  By the way – make sure that the pH is in the optimum range and there is adequate soil fertility for growth.

A glyphosate application can also be made this fall for those who don’t want to wait until spring.  Follow the glyphosate application by planting a winter annual, followed by another glyphosate application after the winter annual harvest.  Plant a summer annual, harvest it, apply glyphosate one more time, and plan to seed the novel endophyte fescue variety next fall.

If glyphosate is not used, then till up the field, and keep making tillage passes as needed.  Get a seedbed prepared and plant winter and summer annuals for a while – until there are no clumps of fescue growing.  This process may take two or three years.  During that time, though, the annual forages will provide some great forage for grazing and hay during the transition period.  Follow these treatments up by no-till seeding some novel endophyte fescue.

Let the new seedlings get firmly established before putting horses on the newly seeded pasture.  Horses can be tough on seedlings, so letting a root system develop will help give the stand some longevity.  Some folks recommend allowing the new stand of novel endophyte fescue to grow for a full year before starting to use it for grazing. 

Converting to a novel endophyte fescue is not an easy or short process.  It will be up to the horse owner to decide if the risks, economics, forage needs, and other factors will make it worthwhile to make the transition.  Contact your local NC Cooperative Extension Agent with forages responsibilities for more specific recommendations on establishing novel endophyte fescue in pastures in your area.

Rain/Mud Management

We have been seeing rain and expecting more with the developing hurricanes and tropical storms. Rain and associated factors, like mud can cause problems in horses. 

Rain can cause rain rot. Rain rot, also called rain scald, is a skin condition that is caused by bacteria that live in the outer lay of the skin. The bacteria multiply in damp, humid conditions. Rain rot can cause painful, crusty scabs that when removed pulls clumps of hairs away from the skin, leaving bald spots on the hips, face, back, and other areas of the horse.  

Below are tips to avoid rain rot and the possibility of spreading rain rot:

• Don’t share tack, equipment, or blanket between horses you suspect may have rain rot
• Keep infected horses isolated
• Minimize exposure to bugs and bacteria
• After treating infected horse, wash hands thoroughly
• Have a covered area for your horses

• Keep coat clean especially for horses turned out more than others

Muddy conditions can cause problems, like thrush, hoof abscesses, hoof cracks, and pastern dermatitis. Thrush is a bacterial and fungal infection of the soft tissues of the foot that results in the degeneration of the frog, left untreated it will penetrate the sensitive layers of the foot and cause lameness. Hooves will absorb water and become very soft in wet and muddy conditions. If the feet dry out quickly, the hoof may contract rapidly, resulting in hoof wall or sole cracks. Hoof infection and subsequent abscesses may occur when bacteria in the environment penetrate the cracks. The soles of horse’s feet contract and expand, as does the hoof wall, but the sole periodically exfoliates. Persistent muddy conditions and wet-dry cycles may cause some horses to lose more sole than is normal, resulting in thin, sensitive soles. Overgrown hooves are at greater risk for cracking and infection.  

Below are tips to avoid hoof-related problems:

• Clean horses’ legs regularly and keep the hair around the fetlocks trimmed 
• Clean the feet often and provide regular, balanced trimming
• Remove soiled bedding materials, manure, and leftover hay. Removal of waste material will decrease surface water contamination, reduce harmful bacteria, and provide a healthier environment for the horse to rest in.
• Rubber mats or large wood chips maybe used to prevent muddy conditions

 

Sources:
http://www.msuextension.org/BSSA/Articles/2013/Spring2013/HorsesandtheMudSeason.pdf