Using Artificial Light for Mares

With the shortest day of the year right around the corner, it's easy to see why bears choose to hibernate!  But did you know that mares have their own, much less intense, version of hibernation called anestrus? 

Anestrus is defined as a 'reproductive quiescence', or basically a period where mares will not come into heat for breeding.  Control of the mare's, and many other species, reproductive rhythm stems from the photoperiod - the part of the retina that perceives daylight.  As the days shorten, the photoperiod relays this information to the brain, specifically the pineal gland, which then begins to secrete increasing levels of the hormone melatonin.  While melatonin is often dubbed the 'sleep hormone', it also suppresses the mare's reproductive activity. 

Since foals born early in the year have the tendency to outperform those born later - especially in the racehorse industry - manipulating the mare's natural breeding cycle can be advantageous.  The most common and reliable method is through the use of artificial lights to alter the mare's perception of day length.  The easiest light management program is to use lights at the end of the day to extend the perceived day length to 16 hours at the start of December (to induce heat between February-March).  This practice entails turning on an artificial light source 30 minutes before sundown.  Perception of day length must be constant from day to day, so the use of automatic timers is beneficial.  It should also be noted, that mares exposed to too much light will not cycle at all.

Light intensity should be a minimum of 2-foot candles, which is comparable to one 200-watt bulb for a 12x12 foot stall, with no dark corners for the mare to stand in.  A good rule of thumb is to light the enclosure enough to where you can read the fine print on a newspaper in the darkest corner of the stall.

Artificial lighting programs work best in stalls; however, floodlights have can be used in outdoor pens and paddocks to create a similar effect.  Keep in mind though, mares that undergo an artificial light program will also shed their hair, so mares housed outside will need protection from bad weather. 

While the use of artificial lights has the greatest benefit on dry or open mares, recent studies have shown that early foaling mares will also respond to added light.  Gestation lengths have been decreased by as much as 10 days when using lights for open mares, with no effect on foal weight and size.  Artificial light programs also stimulates mares to properly cycle after foaling as well.

Equine Dentistry

Modern horse diets include grain and hay, which often time limits their grazing. Horses' teeth were made for grazing, so dental issues can be common in the horse community.  Horse health and performance may be affected by problems with their teeth and should be evaluated by a vet. With good vet care and exams, most dental issues can be corrected. Read the following article  https://horses.extension.org/basic-dental-care-for-horses/ to learn more about horse dentistry and what you should be looking for.

Ration Balancers Explained

 

Do you have a mature adult horse at maintenance or in light work that is an easy keeper and can sustain on forage alone? Or do you have a growing foal that has a high nutrient demand but does not necessarily need excess calories? Then the best option might be the use of a quality ration balancer.

Ration balancer pellets were originally designed to meet the specific needs of growing horses, in conjunction with a high quality forage source, by providing the essential amino acids, both macro and micro minerals and essential vitamins without the excess calories that could predispose a growing horse to developmental orthopedic diseases.

In addition to young, growing horses, mature horses that tend to be easy keepers and can maintain their weight on a forage-based diet can also benefit from a ration balancer. As a forage only diet, can often meet or  exceed energy and crude protein requirements, but still be deficient in certain essential amino acids, minerals and vitamins.

Due to their high nutrient density, the ration balancer recommended serving sizes are relatively small (~1 to 2 pounds per day).  Just about every major manufacturer of horse feed has their version of a ration balancer and the manufacturer will include feeding directions on the bag for the type of horse (stage of production or age of horse) and/or workload the horse is under.

Many often express concerns over the protein levels in ration balancers, which generally range from 28-32%. However, due to the much lower feeding rate as compared to some performance feeds and/or complete feeds, the total amount of protein consumed by a horse on a ration balancer is generally much lower. For example, if we assume that an average adult horse is consuming one pound per day of a quality ration balancer at 30% CP that equates to 0.3 lb or 136 grams of crude protein per day from the ration balancer. Compare that to a fortified feed with a recommended feeding rate of a minimum of 5 lb per day and contains 12% crude protein, then that would equate to 0.6 lb or 272 grams of crude protein consumed.

Keep in mind that crude protein requirements for the horse are expressed in grams per day, and not as they are often represented on a feed tag – percent (%) form.  An average adult horse (~1100 lb) in light work will need roughly 700 grams of crude protein per day. If we assume that they are eating 2% of their body weight in a quality grass hay with an average of 10% CP, then they are already exceeding their crude protein requirement (~1000 grams of crude protein per day). An additional 100 to 150 grams from 1 lb of a quality ration balancer is nothing to worry about, but the fact that is supplies other essential nutrients that can often be deficient in a forage only diet can be essential to providing a balanced diet.

Furthermore, Ration balancers can be fed in conjunction with other fortified feeds. Especially when one feeds well under the recommended minimum of the other fortified feed. By supplementing back with roughly a ½ to 1 lb of a ration balancer, it is quite possible that the added ration balancer fills in the nutritional gaps left behind by not feeding the recommended amount of the other fortified feed.

In addition, ration balancer pellets can be a good option for horses that do not tolerate high sugar and starch levels in their diets. The generally lower glycemic index of a typical ration balancer has the potential to also lessen a horse’s frisky behavior, if you have a horse that is prone to that.

Overall, ration balancer pellets can be an ideal feed for a number of different horses, including adult horses at maintenance or in light work or actively growing horses and can be used in a number of diverse ways to compliment or balance out the equine diet.

Winter Horse Care Reminders

 

This time of year brings not only chilly temperatures and frosty mornings, but also a decline in forage growth due to the shorter days and colder temperatures.  It’s tougher to match the increase in calories needed to maintain weight, stay warm, and certainly for a youngster to grow or a mare to nurse a foal.  Minimum essentials for horses and other animals living outdoors are adequate nutrition, whether forage, concentrated feed, or both, along with clean water and some type of shelter. Being able to provide water instead of a block of ice is also critical.  Feed and farm supply stores sell tank de-icers and heated buckets or tubs that come in handy.  Making an investment might save you the cost of a vet bill later, or even worse, the loss of an animal as a result of cold weather dehydration.

 

Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical aspect to winter management of horses.  This is the time of year where hay supplies can get thin, so planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is critical.  When temperatures get below freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only forage option.  Horses, along with all livestock, need hay to stay warm.  Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just an increase in hay consumption.  Those that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in hay during cold periods.  For example, a mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet these temperature needs in cold weather.  It’s also important to pay close attention to body condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse.  A long hair coat or winter blanket can often cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or “cover” there is over and around them.  If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight, increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful.  Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just for this purpose. 

 

 

These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get through the brisk winter days that are starting and will be here for a while. For more information or advice, don’t hesitate to contact your local county extension agent or your veterinarian.

Controlling Bots

 

Photo Credit: Lauren Langley

Have you ever noticed the tiny yellowish eggs that are laid usually on the inside of your horse’s front legs in late summer, early fall?  Bot flies (adults resemble bees) are responsible for laying those eggs on your horse.  Horses serve as a host for bot fly reproduction.  The bot flies can also lay eggs on the horse’s belly and jawline.  

You may be wondering, how are bot eggs a problem for my horse?  Once the flies start laying eggs on the horse, the horse becomes irritated and reacts by biting or kicking and as a result ingests the eggs.  Once the eggs are ingested, they attach to the stomach wall and develop into mature larvae.  Clinical signs that your horse is infested with bots: difficulty swallowing, ulcers, intestinal obstructions, and other digestive disorders.

Photo Credit: Lauren Langley

What can you do?  Remove the bot eggs if you can with a bot knife.  Be careful not to rub your eyes if you come in contact with the bot eggs which can infect human eyes.  You can also treat for bots after a killing freeze.  Most of the time, a killing freeze kills off the bot flies and that is an ideal time to treat for bots.  Make sure you are selecting a dewormer product that lists bots on the label.  Always consult with your veterinarian when selecting a dewormer product and for the best time to treat.

 

Strategic Deworming

A common question that many horse owners ask is “What should I use to deworm my horse?” In the past, parasite control programs involved aggressive rotational deworming at two month intervals. These programs were geared toward eliminating the large strongyle bloodworm and proved very successful as all three major drug classes are very effective against large strongyles and heavy infections are now rare.

Small strongyles (cyathostomins), roundworms (ascarids), bots and tapeworms are the primary parasites that current deworming protocols focus on. Gone are the days of rotating dewormer brands every two months. Dewormer resistance is quickly becoming one of the biggest issues facing equines of today. What were once effective dewormers are now no longer treating horses as effectively for parasite burdens as they once did. To compound the issue, there are no new dewormer drugs in development for the horse. Therefore, we must change the way we approach deworming in horses to ensure that the drugs we have will continue to function appropriately against our horses’ parasites.

The new approach to deworming in horses is to treat the horses with the higher parasite loads more frequently, and those with lower parasite loads less frequently. A fecal egg count (FEC) is a simple, useful tool for evaluating a horse’s parasite load. It involves analyzing a horse’s fresh fecal sample to gauge the number of parasite eggs per gram (epg) of manure.

Generally, horses are categorized into the following classifications based on the number of parasite eggs that they are shedding:

·         Low shedder: has 200 eggs per gram or less and typically only needs to be dewormed twice a year in the spring and fall.

·         Moderate shedder: has between 200-500 eggs per gram and typically needs to be dewormed three times a year.

·         High shedder: has greater than 500 eggs per gram and typically needs to be dewormed four times a year.

Even horses who come back with an FEC of zero, does not mean that they are free of parasites. It simply means that they are currently not shedding any eggs. Besides, an FEC will not detect bots or tapeworms, so should still be treated as low shedders during the spring and fall with an appropriate drug class.

Beyond an FEC is a fecal egg count reduction test (FECRT). An FECRT is the only way to accurately assess parasite resistance to a particular drug class. This test involves obtaining a fecal sample, testing it for an epg count, administering a specific drug class, and then coming back in 10-14 days and retesting another fecal sample. The difference between the two samples (pre and post-treatment) are calculated as a percent reduction. If the percent reduction is not at least 85% or greater, then one should suspect resistance to the particular drug class used.

For the Southeast region, spring and fall deworming is all most horses need, unless regular FECs say that a given horse needs to be dewormed more frequently. Fall, after a good freeze (or about 6 months after the spring treatment), is the best time to treat for bots, as the temperatures will all but eliminate them. It is also a convenient time to treat for tapeworms. Since the macrocyclic lactones (ivermectin & moxidectin) are the only things that kill bots, you would want to use Equimax, Quest Plus or Zimectrin Gold with the added praziquantel to also address tapeworms. Then in the spring, it is still a good idea to address any lingering bots and tapeworms that might have overwintered in the horse and treat once the temperatures are consistently above 45-50 degrees. For moderate and high shedders you would want to add one or two additional treatments through the winter months and may include one of the following drug classes: macrocyclic lactones (ivermectin & moxidectin), benzimidazoles (fenbendazole & oxibendazole) and/or pryrimidine salts (pyrantel pamoate). For the latter two drug classes mentioned, these are also ones where an FECRT should be employed to determine the efficacy of the drug class used, as they are often associated with increasing resistance issues.

In summary, changing the thought process about equine parasite control has been an uphill battle. We have tried for 50+ years to clear a horse on pasture entirely of internal parasites and have failed miserably. Thus, the new goal is to focus on those horses that are shedding the most and treat them accordingly. For the rest of the population that are routinely low shedders, we simply need to focus on maintaining a small population of internal parasites that are still managed by the drug classes we currently have.

Do You Have Your Winter Hay Supply?

Hopefully, once you read that title, you said to yourself, “Yes, I have my hay for the winter”. Whether you have hay for the upcoming winter or not, below are some things to think about when making that purchase. 

Hay Maturity – Many folks think that 1st cutting is the best and most nutritious hay. That may or may not be the case. The maturity of the hay at the time it is cut is the biggest factor that affects hay quality. If the hay is more mature and in the reproductive stage (seedheads or blooms present), the quality will decrease. Hay that is in the vegetative state is generally more nutritious. A lot of times, first cutting hay will have seedheads and lots of stem, thus reducing protein, energy and digestibility levels. 

Hay Species – Depending on the class of livestock you are feeding, you will need varying degrees of nutrition levels. Horses that are trail ridden only occasionally (or never) are not going to have as a high a plane of nutritional requirements as a racehorse in training. Likewise, a broodmare with a two month old foal by her side needs more protein and energy than mare in the last 90 days of gestation. Again, who you are feeding will dictate the type of hay you might need. Grasses and legumes have differing nutritional values. Additionally, within those groups, forage species can have varying levels of protein and energy.

Rain – Rain is not good for hay once it has been mowed. If rained on within a few hours of being mowed, the hay will not be as negatively affected as when it is rained on when dry enough to bale. Digestibility and dry matter yield both decrease with rainfall events. If the hay is allowed to dry adequately before baling, it can still be fed to some classes of livestock. However, supplementation will most likely be needed to make up the difference in nutritional needs versus nutrition supplied. All this depends on both the hay and the livestock. 

Storage – Storing hay inside (barn/shed) is best. This protects it from rain (and snow) and sun. However, having adequate storage can be difficult when dealing with large round bales. Many times, those large round bales are stored uncovered outside. This will reduce the quality and dry matter. In this case, you will most likely need more hay and will also need supplementation. If those round bales are stored up off the ground and covered with a tarp, quality and dry matter loss will be minimal. 

Weight – The only way to know for sure how much a bale of hay weighs is to weigh it. This isn’t that hard to do with small square bales, but can be challenging for large round bales. However, a livestock scale will work if one is available. Small squares can vary in weight by as much as 30-40 pounds, depending on hay species and baling specifics. Large round bales can vary by as much as 1000 pounds since there are different sizes available. Since hay in this part of the world is bought and sold on a per bale basis (as opposed to per ton), it is important to know how much hay (by weight) you’re really getting.

Amount – Without knowing the weight of the hay, it is virtually impossible to even estimate how much hay you’ll need to feed your livestock through the winter. As a (very broad) average, an animal will eat approximately 2-2.5% of its body weight in dry matter every day. Notice that was dry matter – not just hay. Hay is typically 85% dry matter or higher. This dry matter recommendation is a basic way of estimating “how much” the animal will eat. It does not take into consideration any specific protein and energy requirements based on nutritional needs for the animal or group of animals. If you feed any supplemental feeds or the animals are grazing, that dry matter intake goes into the equation as well. 

So, let’s do some quick math. Say you have 10 horses that don’t do a lot of work that weigh 1000 pounds each. Your hay weighs 800 pounds (large round bales) and tested at 88% dry matter. How much hay will you need? Well, you also kinda need to know (or guess) how long you’ll feed them through the winter. We’ll say that you expect to feed hay for 4 months (120 days). You are a good grass manager so you have enough pasture to supply their nutritional needs the other 8 months. 

1000 lbs X 2% dry matter intake = 20 pounds of dry mater (DM) per day per horse 

20 pounds DM per day/per horse ÷ 88% dry matter = 22.72 pounds of hay as fed per horse per day 

23 lbs hay X 10 horses = 230 pounds of hay per day for all 10 horses 

230 pounds per day X 120 days = 27,600 pounds of hay for the herd for the winter 

27,600 lbs hay needed ÷ 800 lbs per bale = 35 large round bales of hay 

In this example, we have determined that you would need 35 bales to feed 10 1000-pound horses for 120 days. The same type of math could be used if you’re using small square bales to feed horses or small ruminants. There are lots of other variables that come into play, like feeding loss and weather. But, this would at least give you a start on how much hay you need. These numbers do not take into consideration the protein and energy levels that may be needed for animals that require more of these nutrients. This just looks at dry matter. You could be feeding enough dry matter, but if the hay is poor quality, the animals could be starving with full bellies. 

Hay Testing – The NC Department of Agriculture will perform a nutritional analysis on your hay for $10. That’s a pretty cheap investment to find out exactly what you are feeding. Approximately one gallon of dry hay is all that is needed. Forms are available at your Extension office or online, and your local Extension office may be able to get the sample to the lab for you. You’ll have results in about 2-3 weeks. 

Contact your local Extension office for additional information or with help collecting hay samples or interpreting hay reports.

Fire Ant Control in Pastures

 

Fire ants are pretty well established here in North Carolina and some of them like to call your pasture or hayfield home. Whether you are dealing with one mound or a hundred mounds in some cases, you need to know what to do for control.

Fire ants can negatively impact your equine or hay operation and cost you time and money. Impact may be felt through:

• Lost Labor Animal Injury Equipment
• Damage/Wear
• Hay Production
• Medical/Veterinary Costs
• Forage Degradation
• Electrical Equipment Damage
• Infested Feed
• Reduced Feeding
• Young Animal Endangerment

There are a few pesticides labeled for fire ant control in a pasture or hayfield situation. Some are for directly treating the mound and others are for broadcasting an infested area where there are a lot of mounds. There are also some pesticides that are for use only in horse pastures (where horses are not used for human consumption) and non-pasture farm areas. As always, please read the label and follow restrictions and directions for using in pasture. Here is a list of pesticides for use in pastures:

• Amdro Pro – For mound or broadcast
• Amdro – Horse or non-pasture areas only
• Extinguish – For mound or broadcast
• Extinguish Plus – Horse or non-pasture areas only
• Esteem Ant Bait – For mound or broadcast
• Award – Horse or non-pasture areas only
• Sevin SL – For mound drench only
• Advion – Horse or non-pasture areas only

Here are a few tips to help increase your success when applying a pesticide to control fire ants:

Do not apply baits and drench at the same time.

Allow 7-10 days between the two application. Ants will not forage and accept bait while they are disrupted by poison.

The best months to treat are mid-spring and fall. The best time of day to treat is mid-morning when air temperatures are around 70 degrees F.

To check and see if fire ants are active, place potato chips or cheese puffs on the ground. If ants are noticed within 5-10 minutes then they are considered active and foraging.

Additional tips when applying baits:

Do not apply if ground is wet or rain occurs within 36 hours. Do not store open product for longer than package allows– most products have a short shelf life. Do not store baits near other pesticides or fuel from which they may absorb odors and taste. Do not apply baits directly on top of the mound, fire ants do not come and go from the top of the mound. Do not disturb mounds when applying baits, this can interfere with their foraging behavior.

Remember, always read the label and follow directions! Some products may require you to reapply! You cannot get rid of fire ants overnight, just like anything else it will take time. Formulate a plan and stick to it so you can reclaim your pasture back.

To view the original publication and for more information please see the publication Fire Ants in Pastures.

 

Written by: Lauren Langley, Livestock Extension Agent | Source: S. B. Bambara & Wes Watson, NC State Extension Entomologists

Video Resources:

Equine Law Webinar Series

 

N.C. Cooperative Extension, Alamance and Chatham County Centers are proud to present the Equine Law Webinar Series with guest speaker, R.L. Adams from Carolina Equine Law. This webinar series was designed with horse owners and equine businesses in mind.

Through this free webinar series, you will learn about several important topics including equine contracts, liability, and insurance. These topics are important if you are considering leasing, boarding, hosting groups/events, giving lessons, etc.

Each webinar will take place from 7–8 p.m. EST on the following dates:

November 4, 2021: Equine Contracts 101

November 16, 2021: Equine Liability & Insurance

Pre-Registration Required: http://go.ncsu.edu/equinelaw21

 

About Zoom (Online Platform Being Used):

This webinar series will be delivered through Zoom, which is an online video communications platform that is free for users. You can download the free app to your phone or you can join by computer. If you cannot join by smartphone or computer, you can call in and listen from any phone.

Once registered, you will be provided with the information needed to join the webinar session.

Questions? Contact Lauren Langley at 336-266-0702 or lauren_langley@ncsu.edu or Kristina Britt at 919-542-8242 or kristina_britt@ncsu.edu.

Biosecurity: What Is It and Why Is It Important

Have you ever thought about how diseases are spread and how to prevent that? This is the basis for biosecurity, which refers to what people do to keep diseases, and viruses, and bacteria, and funguses, and parasites, and other disease-causing microorganisms, away from their animals, farm, and people. The information below is from the Equine Disease Communication Center which is powered by US Equestrian and the American Association of Equine Practitioners. As you read through the information and resources think about how you can improve biosecurity for your horses! 

What is Biosecurity?

Biosecurity is any procedure or measure designed to protect the population against harmful biological or biochemical substances (source). In the equine industry, biosecurity refers to the precautions we take to limit the spread of disease when working with horses. These preventative measures are vital to maintaining the health of all horses regardless of their occupation, whether they be a companion animal, a working horse, or a show animal. Even the smallest precautions can help to keep horses safe from infectious diseases. 

Prevention is Key

Best practices in disease prevention include a combination of following a vaccination plan and taking simple, but important, biosecurity measures in your barn, while traveling, at events, and when caring for your horse. Suggested biosecurity protocols differ depending on the situation and location. Listed below are some general biosecurity resources. Take a look at the biosecurity subpages which provide resources that are specific to common situations and locations to help you keep your horse safe, happy, and healthy at all times.

• USEF Biosecurity Video
• Biosecurity Toolkit for Equine Events
• Breeding Operations
• Disinfection
• Events
• Facilities
• Isolation and Quarantine
• Racetracks
• Travel

Here are a few things that everyone can do to help prevent the spread of disease:

1. Optimize Resistance to Disease.
   1. Vaccinate. The first step to prevention is to keep your horse on a vaccination program that takes into account his/her job (pleasure horse, show animal, working animal, companion), general health status (age, history of illness, etc), amount of travel, and location (some regions pose more risk of disease than others). This vaccination program should be discussed and implemented with your veterinarian.
   2. Reduce Stress. Stress can compromise the horse’s immune systems and make him more susceptible to infection. Happy horses are more likely to be healthy horses.
   3. Optimize Nutrition. Adequate nutrition keeps your horse strong and healthy and gives him the tools he needs to fight off possible infections. 
2. Reduce Exposure.
   1. Practice Biosecurity. Use all of our resources to determine what aspects of your horse’s daily life put him at risk for disease and establish a plan for reducing those risks.
   2. Limit horse-to-horse and horse-to-human interaction. This one is easier said than done given the gregarious nature of the horse but is vital to horse health. Horses and humans can be carriers for the pathogens that cause disease. Establish groups of horses on your facility to reduce intermingling and encourage all humans to avoid interacting with multiple animals without disinfecting between contact.

How are diseases transmitted?

 

Additional Resources for General Biosecurity

AAEP Biosecurity Guidelines, AAEP

Biosecurity Tips for Horse Owners, USDA/APHIS

Infectious Diseases and Biosecurity (video), The Horse

Protect Your Horse from Infectious Diseases (Poster), Equine Guelph

Biosecurity for Horse Owners- Information Sheet- Equine Guelph

Fall Vaccinations

As temperatures begin to cool with the arrival of fall, now is a good time to schedule your horses for fall vaccines.  There are two categories of vaccines - core vaccinations and risk-based vaccinations.  Core vaccines include Eastern & Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE and EWE), Tetanus and West Nile Virus and should be included in vaccination programs regardless of geographical locations. Risk-based vaccines such as Botulism, Potomac Horse Fever, Rhinopneumonitis (EHV-1 and EVH-4), and Equine Influenza should be given based on the risk of disease in a herd population or geographical area.  

In North Carolina, particularly in the eastern part of the state, it is highly recommended all horses regardless of age or travel status receive a fall booster of Eastern/Western Encephalomyelitis, a mosquito-born disease.  On September 16, 2021, a second and  third confirmed case of EEE was confirmed in eastern North Carolina for the year.  EEE has a high mortality rate in unvaccinated horses and treatment options are limited and often ineffective. Other fall boosters to consider include EHV-1 and EHV-4 and Influenza, particularly for horses in boarding operations of travel for shows and trail rides.  

Regardless of your location or the time of the year, any vaccination plan, should be developed with your veterinarian to ensure the best disease coverage is maintained for your horse.  The American Association of Equine Practitioners also has an very informative recommendation chart to study to become better more familiar with your options: https://aaep.org/sites/default/files/2021-05/Adult_Vaccinaton_Chart.pdf

The (literally) Smoking Gun: Hay Fires

Photo from Alabama Cooperative Extension: 
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/forages-livestock/reducing-the-risk-hay-fire/

Even though temperatures have consistently stayed in the 80's, the shorter days tell us that winter is approaching.  Many of us have started our winter preparations, which can (and should) include stocking up on quality hay.  However, baled hay can be its own fuel and ignition, and can result in a hay fire.

Hay fires are unique to the horse and agriculture industry.  The majority of hay fires occur within 6 weeks of baling, usually due to an excessive amount of moisture in the bale.  This is thanks to the growth and multiplication of mesophilic (warm temperature) bacteria naturally found in forages.  Much like with composting, the mesophilic bacteria release heat within the bale and can cause the temperature to rise between 130-140 degrees Fahrenheit.  The ideal moisture level for hay being baled is 15-18% moisture.  At this moisture level, at 130-140 degrees Fahrenheit the bacteria begin to die and the internal temperature of the bale begins to cool.  However, in bales with higher moisture content, the heat created from mesophilic bacteria provides a breeding ground for thermophilic (heat-loving) bacteria, which in turn creates hotter temperatures (up to 170 degrees Fahrenheit).  Bales with higher moisture content also sustain these higher temperatures for longer periods.  For example, a bale with 30% moisture may have a higher interior bale temperature for up to 40 days.  It's easy to see how spontaneous combustion can occur in these situations.

Other factors that can have added risk of hay fires include the volume/density of the bale, and ventilation or airflow around stacked bales.  Bales with a lower density/not packed as tight, that are stacked lower and have good airflow have a lower risk of overheating and combusting.

If you are concerned that hay may have been baled at too high a moisture content, make sure to monitor the internal bale temperature 2x a day for the first 6 weeks after baling.  You can use a temperature probe ($20 at most ag supply stores).  When taking temperatures, drive the probe into the center of the bale and leave it there for 15-20 minutes to get an accurate reading.  You can use the chart below for further actions to take depending on the internal temperature of your hay bales.

In the event of a fire, or even if your hay is smoldering, contact the fire department immediately.  Always remember to protect your own life first!  You can always replace hay, buildings, and equipment, but there is only 1 you.

If you do take action to fight the fire, here are some actions to consider first:

• Check the surrounding area for flammable products, like gasoline cans.  If they are present, LEAVE IMMEDIATELY and make sure to notify firefighters of the flammable products upon their arrival.
• Remove any extra vehicles or machinery from the area around the fire to make room for fire service equipment.
• Move any bale moving equipment out of the way, but make sure it is also readily available if needed.
• Turn off electricity to the building (if you have any).

For an in-depth review on how barn fires can start and how to prevent them, check out Penn State's Fire Safety in Horse Stables publication.

A Word to the Wise

    We have had a very interesting year regarding weather here in North Carolina, so as we move into fall and winter we need to think about our hay reservers. In the piedmont region where I live we have been extremely dry in some areas and the western part of the state has seen a lot of rain and flooding. If you buy your hay or even make your own hay it is a smart idea to really pencil out how much hay you have on hand and think about the future. Since my region has been so dry our second cutting of hay has produced about half as much as it normally does. So, as a hay producers I have already contacted people that I sell to to let them know the limited supply we have and they should reach out to other hay producers to procure their winter supply. If you buy hay in NC this is something you need to do now, reach out to your hay supplier and make sure they have enough hay to supply you with for the winter months. They also may be struggling and you may need to find an alternative source. Also, because hay is in short supply I would imagine prices may go up this winter so if you have the resources to buy and store hay it may be in your best interest to get your supply in the next few weeks as producers are finishing up the hay season. Thinking ahead and being prepared is something any animal owner should be doing and the weather this year has been so hit or miss that we need to be wise about our future hay reserves. If you have trouble finding hay you can always reach out to your local Extension Agent and we usually know where to find hay or contact someone who does. Thanks and have a great Fall! 

Second Trimester Care

If you bred your mare in the spring, she will likely be in or close to her second trimester at this time. The second trimester is defined as day 114-210 of gestation. Management isn’t much different from a non-pregnant mare but there are some considerations to keep in mind. Always consult with your vet for specifics regarding your mare and your situation. But here are some general guidelines for the second trimester.

Many people think a pregnant mare is fragile and must be handled carefully. But they need exercise and as long as there aren’t any extenuating circumstances, you can saddle up and ride. In most instances, mares can safely participate in more rigorous activities like cantering, jumping, and competitions up to about month five of gestation. Light riding is fine up to about month 8, though you may need to adjust saddle fit to accommodate her growing shape. At a minimum make sure your mare has plenty of time turned out in a pasture, paddock, or dry lot. 

It is always a good idea to provide high-quality feed but a pregnant mare’s nutritional demands are not much higher than normal during this time. In fact, you must be careful not to overfeed at this stage. Many people think they should feed for two once the pregnancy is confirmed. But excess nutrients above what is needed will not help improve foal growth but will instead go to the mare. Carrying this additional weight can be detrimental for the mare resulting in conditions like laminitis. Excess fat stored around the pelvis can narrow the birthing canal which can make the foaling process more difficult. Try to keep your mare’s BCS around a 5 or 6 during pregnancy. Your vet can help you assess your mare’s body condition score and help with nutrition recommendations.

Consult with your vet for help with preventatives like dewormers and vaccines. Most dewormers are safe for pregnant mares but check the label carefully. During this time, you can vaccinate for EHV-1, which is Equine Herpes Virus-1. Both the first and second shot should be given during the second trimester. Fetal sexing can be done at this time to determine the foal’s sex.

The second trimester is fairly simple in terms of management. Changing up her exercise or feeding routines likely isn’t necessary unless there are extenuating circumstances. Taking care of your mare now helps set her up for a successful third trimester and foaling.

Fall Pasture and Forage Management

 Fall is right around the corner.  As we welcome cooler days and temperatures, it's also time to plan for cooler grazing options with the days getting shorter.  Growth of warm season grasses are already beginning to slow down, while many livestock and horse owners are stocking up on hay for the winter and making cool season planting decisions.   With that in mind, having the latest version of the Planting Guide for Forage Crops in NC is very helpful!  This guide can be your roadmap to selecting the best forages all year round, how much is needed, and other best management tips for success.
As always, contact your local county Extension Center for additional information and guidance; we are here to help. 

Hurricane Preparedness

 

Although hurricane season for the US technically begins in June, in NC, we don't typically start worrying about hurricanes until around August or September, which is historically when we get the most impactful storms.  We can hope that this will be a year where NC makes it out unscathed by any late summer storms, but being prepared for the worst is imperative if there are animals involved.

Check out this article by Alaina Cross for tips on how to get prepared: https://ncdisaster.ces.ncsu.edu/horses-and-horse-farms-hurricane-preparedness/

Here are a couple of less comprehensive checklists that can help get you pointed in the right direction for your preparedness plan.

Take care and stay safe!!

Introduction to Equine Dry Lots

Managing horses on small acreage can be challenging.  One of the challenges often faced is the need for grazing but being limited on space.  Dry lots can serve many purposes but the main purpose is to have somewhere to confine horses when pastures need time to rest and regrow.  It is important to consider grading and footing when thinking about putting in a dry lot.  Without the proper grade and footing layers, the dry lot will not stand the test of time.  

Follow along with Lauren Langley, Livestock Extension Agent as she introduces the concept and benefits of installing an equine dry lot. You will also hear from two horse farm owners that have installed a dry lot and how it has helped them achieve their goals.

For more information about equine dry lots please visit: https://alamance.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Equine-Dry-Lot.pdf?fwd=no or contact your local Extension Agent for advice.

Hay sampling, know what your feeding

Forage is a major part of any ruminant or hind-gut fermenter’s diet. Just because the hay you just bought looks green and smells great does not mean that it is truly meeting your horse’s nutritional needs. But how do we know if the hay that we’re feeding is packed with nutrition that is benefiting our horses? We sample it of course!

If you are not sure how to go about taking a forage or hay sample, you can reach out to your county livestock agent. They will be happy to help assist in taking a sample and also in helping read the forage analysis after the sample has been tested.

For square bale sampling, you will need to cut open the bale and grab handfuls of hay from random places throughout the whole bale. The samples you pull will go into a gallon sized Ziplock bag, and you will need to fill and pack it tight. Once the bag is full, place a piece of paper in the bag with name/farm name, phone number, email, and address. This is just in case the hay sample and sample form get separated.  

To sample a round bale, we need to again fill a gallon size Ziplock bag. This time we will be using a hay probe to get samples deep within the round bale. These samples will still be random and taken from all around and inside the bale. Once the bag is full, your contact information needs to be placed inside the bag.

Now that we have our sample, what are we sampling for? Some nutrients that we look at when the hay analysis comes back are Crude Protein, Acid Detergent Fiber (ADF), Neutral Detergent Fiber (NDF), and DE (Digestive Energy), if the lab runs that test.

Crude protein is based on the nitrogen (N) content in the forage. CP ranges form 4%-20%. The reasons for the wide range are forage types, maturity at cutting, and fertilizer applications. An adult horse at maintenance needs roughly 10% CP.

Next, we look at acid detergent fiber (ADF). ADF is the estimation of the component of the feedstuff that is not digestible. Grains have a lower ADF compared to forages, which have a higher ADF of around 40%. The higher the ADF, the more indigestible the feedstuff.

Another component we look at on the forage analysis is neutral detergent fiber (NDF). NDF consists of the digestible fibers like cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. As NDF percentage increases, intake decreases. In other words, a forage with a high NDF can be fed in smaller amounts. NDF percentages in most forages range from 50%-80%.

Finally, we look at digestible energy (DE). DE is the caloric value assigned to the forage. The DE content of the hay helps us calculate how much hay the horse needs per day and if supplemental energies (grain or mix concentrates) are required in order to meet daily DE requirements. An average quality hay DE is around 0.9 Mcal/lbs. The higher the DE the less potential need for other sources of energy. When considering DE also think about the horse’s activity level. A lower DE forage is useful for feeding a mature idle horse.

 

Below are a few labs that you can send forage samples off to for analysis.

NCDA&CS: https://www.ncagr.gov/fooddrug/forms/documents/Forage%20Analysis%20Form.pdf

Equi-Analytical: https://equi-analytical.com/

Noble Labs: https://www.noble.org/ag/services/testing/forage-sampling/

Heaves in Horses

Horses' respiratory systems are very similar to human respiratory systems with a few 

differences: just for example, horses don't breathe out of their mouths. However their 

respiratory systems do serve basically the same purpose as ours. The respiratory tract 

takes in oxygen to the lungs to be exchanged with red blood cells for the oxygen to be 

used throughout the body. The respiratory tract is also responsible for clearing the 

system of irritants such as dust, bacteria, and fumes. It does this by trapping these 

irritants in a mucus that covers the airway. An over exposure to irritants can lead a 

horse to have some respiratory issues. Respiratory issues tend to present themselves 

with symptoms such as excessive nasal discharge, coughing, sneezing, or mucus secretions. 

   

As we all know, there can be a lot of dust in a barn from a variety of sources such as 

hay, feed, bedding, the horses backs and hooves as well as what people drag in. Dust 

can have molds, bacteria and other particles that can affect horses (and people’s) airways. 

   

Recurrent Airway Obstruction (RAO), also known as Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary 

Disease (COPD) or also simply called “heaves'' is a noninfectious respiratory disease 

that causes constriction of the lower airways and the accumulation of mucus. When a 

horse has heaves their lung tissues become inflamed and thick. This in turn decreases 

the elasticity of the lungs making breathing more labored.

Heaves presents itself much like other respiratory illnesses which can make it hard to 

be immediately diagnosed. Some of the signs of heaves are coughing, nasal discharge, 

labored breathing, reduced performance, flaring nostrils, and a “heave line”. 

A “heave line” is a line that begins to develop after a period of time where the horse’s 

exhale takes just as much energy as an inhale.

Unfortunately, heaves is not a curable illness and it is progressive and regenerative; 

meaning it will not go away and will tend to get worse in waves. However there are 

some practices and medicines out there to help manage heaves in horses. One of the 

key things to do when you have a horse with heaves is to cut down on dust as much 

as possible. You can change over to less dusty feeds or wet down horses feed to 

prevent inhalation of dust, switch to a less dusty bedding such as pine pellets, and try 

to take horses with heaves out of the barn when sweeping or cleaning stalls.  As far as

medications, there are Bronchodilators out there that can be administered orally or 

inhaled as an aerosol through a mask. In addition, there are corticosteroids for reducing 

inflammation. However, long term use of that medication can cause laminitis or 

infection. There are also traditional Chinese remedies available through your vet. 

While it is unfortunate that heaves is not curable, it does not mean the end of the horse's 

life. If  you have a horse present with heaves like symptoms, call your vet and develop 

a plan that works for you and your operation and do your best to make the horse 

comfortable. If you do not have horses that present with heaves, it may still be wise to 

adopt some of the dust minimizing practices to help ensure that your horses stay free of 

heaves and any other respiratory illnesses.

Heaves – The Horse Version of COPD | Panhandle Agriculture

Equine Respiratory Diseases

Written by Emily Jacobs, Bladen Extension Intern

The Devil is in the Details

Who doesn't want to stop animal abuse?  If you own equines or any other animals, you most likely feel queasy any time you hear of an animal being abused.  The thought of someone purposely causing physical harm to any sort of animal is unbelievable and intolerable.  However, we all know it happens - many times it is unintentional (a person gets in over their heads with the number of animals in their care) but there are cases when people are just plain mean.  And when we think about those cases, we typically automatically feel that any sort of legislation to stop, prevent or criminalize animal abuse is a good thing.

However, I would caution you to make sure you understand the details of those legislative proposals before you decide to promote them because you believe that it will eliminate animal cruelty.  A couple of western states have ballot initiatives that, on the surface, sound terrific.  Similar legislation has been proposed here.  As always, the devil is in the details and I would advise you to make sure you understand all of the implications of such proposals.  

Colorado has recently had a ballot initiative proposed that would criminalize "animal cruelty".  At first glance that sounds great, right?  Who doesn't want to stop animal abuse?  However, the initiative classifies many practices as animal abuse.  One such example is artificial insemination.  This practice would be classified as a "sexual act with an animal" and would be punishable.  Many of you may not utilize this practice with your horses, but I bet you know someone who does.  This practice, which can improve equine genetics quickly and allow matings that might otherwise not happen, would be banned and criminalized.  Other practices that would be banned under this initiative include branding and castrating.  Again, branding is not done much around here, but is used extensively in the west.  And castrating - do we really need all those stallions (or other intact male livestock species) running around?  Assisting difficult births could also be labeled as animal cruelty.

The Colorado Supreme Court ruled last week that this initiative could not proceed due to some legal details that I won't go into.  I would be willing to bet, however, that the proponents of this initiative will try again real soon.

The initiative can be found here:

https://www.sos.state.co.us/pubs/elections/Initiatives/titleBoard/filings/2021-2022/16OriginalFinal.pdf

Colorado is not the only state currently dealing with such an initiative. Oregon also has a similar proposed initiative.  It can be found here:

http://oregonvotes.org/irr/2022/013text.pdf

No one wants animals to be abused or mistreated or neglected.  But the broad language in these bills provides for the possibility that many of the practices currently used would be criminalized.  I would urge you to read and understand the details of such bills before blindly supporting them based solely on the suggestion of reducing animal cruelty.

Has Your Horse Been Vaccinated?

As we get into the summer months and see higher temperatures, it’s inevitable that insect pests, such as mosquitoes will be out looking to snack on the blood of horses, humans, and other animals alike. Mosquitoes should be a great concern to horse owners since these insects carry and transmit potentially lethal diseases such as EEE (Eastern Equine Encephalitis) and WNV (West Nile Virus). An unvaccinated horse can show signs of these diseases 5 to 15 days after being bitten by an infected mosquito. Symptoms of WNV include fever, weakness or paralysis of hind limbs, impaired vision, head pressing, seizures, and aimless wandering. Typical symptoms of EEE include: muscle spasms, difficulty swallowing, paralysis, staggering, aimless wandering, lack of coordination, and eventually death. Historically, most cases of WNV and EEE in NC occur in July and August. If you haven't already, now is the time to get your horses vaccinated. 

 

There is no cure for either of these diseases and mortality rates range from 30 percent for WNV and over 90 percent for EEE. Unfortunately, horses that contract EEE are often euthanized. This stresses the importance of having your horse vaccinated annually by a large animal veterinarian. Horse owners should talk with their veterinarians about establishing a vaccination schedule to protect horses from these mosquito-borne diseases as well as other diseases, such as rabies. Birds, equines, and humans can become infected from a bite by a mosquito carrying the diseases, but there is no evidence that horses can transmit the viruses to other horses, birds, or people through direct contact.

  

There are also some cultural practices horse owners can also utilize to help curb mosquito populations. Mosquitoes can breed in any area of stagnant water that lasts for more than four days, so when possible, remove any source of standing water to minimize their breeding areas. This practice can decrease the chances of exposing animals to both EEE and WNV. Some other management practices such as keeping horses stalled at night, running barn fans, and turning off lights after dusk can also help reduce exposure to mosquitoes. Providing protective gear such as fly sheets and masks can also help deter mosquitoes and other insects from irritating horses, especially at night. Certain insect repellants, containing pyrethrins can be effective if used according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these sprays only offer temporary relief so it is important that horse owners manage mosquitoes and other insects using an integrated approach.

Now is the time to get your horses vaccinated. Although there are few, most cases of EEE and WNV in North Carolina usually occur from June through August. If you think your horse or other equine animals may have contracted EEE or WNV contact your veterinarian immediately.