Recommendations to Manage Grazing in Horses

The scope of this article is confined more to grazing considerations than forage management practices such a forage specie selection, fertilization, weed control, and mowing.  Several recommendations for managing grazing of horses are provided below.

• The goal of forage management is to maintain the desired supply of digestible forage to grazing horses. Mature forage and weedy forage types are not efficiently digested.
• Establishing forage depends largely on what plant species are best adapted to the soil type and geographical area, and the types and levels of agronomic inputs owners are willing to employ.
• The length of forage grazing season will depend on use of warm and cool season forages, rainfall, grazing management, and agronomic practices employed.
• Don’t overestimate the available forage for stocking rate determination. Trees, sacrifice areas, overgrazed areas, and brush must be considered.
• If pastures are of adequate size, decrease sacrifice areas by practices such as frequently relocating feed troughs in pastures.
• Consider time limit grazing and rotational grazing programs, especially when housing horses on small acreages.
Rotational grazing, companion grazing with other types of livestock, spreading of manure piles, and other management practices will reduce spot grazing.
• Pasture forage should be maintained at minimum optimal heights. Although complete removal of horses from pastures is not possible on many farms, rotational grazing or limited turnout time will help establish initial growth, and allow for regrowth during the active season of forage growth.
• Horses should be gradually introduced to forage types that are high in nutrients such as winter annuals. For example, start turn outs for 30 minutes once or twice per day for a couple of days, followed by a couple of days with access of 4 to 6 hours before continual turnout. Watch the horse’s health and behavior to determine how quickly to advance this introductory period. Allowing horses free choice hay while not on pastures during the introductory period will help decrease their appetite when they are turned out.
• Selection of forages to establish needs to be based on desired forage production times and amounts, forage compatibility to the geographical area, the expected grazing and trampling pressure, and the expected grazing and agronomic practices to be followed.

Click the link for the complete factsheet from Oklahoma State University regarding Managing Grazing for Horses

Water Troughs and Cold Weather

The winter of 2017/2018 has been pretty tough to take at times – and there are still several weeks to go according to the calendar.  There have already been two snow events and record setting cold temperatures.  When you have animals and these types of weather conditions, keeping water thawed can be a huge challenge.  It may be something we think about skipping so we can get back in the warmth of the house, but water consumption is critical, even in the winter.  Here are some things to think about and possibly implement to help keep the water thawed for your livestock.  Remember some of these ideas may have limitations if temperatures get really low. 

1. Locate your trough for sun exposure.

Let Mother Nature help you out.  Placing your trough so that it receives as much full sun as possible can help keep it thawed throughout the day.  Place the tank in a south-facing area as this will increase the potential amount of sunlight during daylight hours

2. Insulate your trough.

Insulation can help keep the cold out and the warmth of the water in.   Styrofoam board and/or foil covered insulation works well and can be wrapped around the outside of the trough. What works even better is putting one trough inside another with a gap of a couple of inches all the way around. Then, place insulation on the bottom between the two troughs and around the outside of the interior trough. Finally, fill any gaps with spray insulation that sets hard. You can also build a plywood box, line it with insulation, and put your trough inside it.

Another means to help insulate the trough as much as possible is to put an insulated lid over the trough with just enough surface area for the animals to drink.  This might work pretty well if you have a limited number of animals, but a trough that needs to supply water to 50 cows, for example, may not be conducive to this suggestion.    You can install a plywood lid with insulation attached to the underside of the lid.  This can help keep the warmth in the trough. 

3. Place a float in the trough.

Floating something in the trough helps in a couple of ways. First, it keeps the surface of the water moving as it bobs about, making it harder to freeze. Second, if the horses learn to depress the floating object, it will expose an open area in the ice so they can drink.  This done be done with soccer balls, but another tactic is to fill an empty two-liter soda bottle two thirds full with water and 1 to 2 cups salt dissolved and seal tightly. There is enough air in the bottle for it to float, and saltwater freezes at a lower temperature than the water in the trough, so the water keeps moving. These methods receive mixed reviews. Some people swear by them, while others find it doesn’t work at all.

4. Bury your trough.

If your ground is frozen it is likely too late this year, but digging a hole for your trough and sinking it into the ground might help by insulating the through. Again this is going to depend on where you live and how deep down your ground freezes.   One account from someone living in North Dakota indicated they had used a fence post auger to dig a 12-inch hole several feet deep under their water trough. Apparently the heat rising from deep within the earth helped prevent the trough from freezing.

5. Heat your trough.

Water trough heaters are available in a number of different styles.  The most important thing with any of these heaters is to make sure it is installed correctly and safely.  Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.  Animals are naturally curious.  Make sure you have taken all precautions to ensure their safety around these heaters. 

One thing to consider is “natural heat”.  Try putting manure under the trough.  When manure breaks down through composting, a lot of heat is generated.  You will probably need a manure layer that is several inches thick in order to capture the heat that is produced. 

Actively heating your trough in combination with one or more of the above ideas will likely reduce energy costs.

No matter what improvements you implement to keep the water thawed, you want to check those troughs at least twice a day to make sure the animals have access to the water and that there are no other issues.

Adapted from article written by Dr. Clair Thunes, PhD, an independent equine nutrition consultant who own Summit Equine Nutrition in Sacramento, California. 

Equine Tests and Vaccinations

February is the month when horse owners start getting things ready for the show season and for trail rides.  That incudes getting the tack ready (saddles, bridles, reins, blankets, etc.), checking the trailer lights, brakes, and flooring, getting a new Coggin’s Test run, and getting the horse(s) vaccinated for any diseases that may be threatening horses in this area.

I mentioned the trailer because that is a critical piece of equipment that should not be taken for granted.  Flooring will deteriorate whether it is wood or metal, wheel bearings need to be checked and greased, and brakes need to be checked to be sure that a) they work, and b) they aren’t too worn to stop the trailer.  Be sure to check the tires and be sure there are no cracks in the sidewalls and that there is enough tread, and check the hitch to make sure it functions properly.  It’s no fun to look in the left lane and see the trailer passing the truck.

Anyway, this is supposed to be more focused on vaccinations and Coggin’s tests.  February is when a lot of folks who show their horses and participate in trail rides like to get their Coggin’s tests done.  The Coggin’s test is performed to check horses for Equine Infectious Anemia, a disease which is deadly for horses.  Those that do survive become carriers of the disease.  The only tool available to keep this disease in check is to test and quarantine.  Cases are found each year, not many, but enough to cause horse owners to keep their guard up.

Horses that are transported off the farm must be accompanied by negative Coggin’s test paperwork that was conducted within the previous 12 months.  Most folks keep a notebook in the truck or trailer with this paperwork and other paperwork that is needed to check in at a trail ride or to gain admission to a show.  February works out to be a good month since the weather is generally too cold for a lot of riding, so there are not many events going on.  No one wants to wait for paperwork during the show or trail season, so getting this chore done early helps avoid unnecessary delays later on.

With that in mind, check with your county NC Cooperative Extension Agent to see if there are any Coggin's Clinics scheduled in the near future.  In many counties, Extension Livestock Agents work with local veterinarians to conduct these clinics for horse owners.  The test is conducted at just about cost, there is no trip fee charged, and vaccinations are offered at a reduced rate.  The basic vaccinations available include rabies, West Nile Virus, Eastern and Western Equine Encephalitis, tetanus, flu/Rhinovirus, and strangles.

If there is not a Coggin's Clinic scheduled nearby, contact your veterinarian to get a Coggin's test scheduled and get any needed vaccinations.  This is vital for your horse's health and to protect other folks' horses at trail rides and horse shows.

NCSU Veterinary School Equine Ophtamalmology

Eyesight is very important in horses.  As prey animals, they have a large field of vision and their eye placement is important in allowing them to see almost 360 degrees.  There are several problems that can occur in horses.  This video from North Carolina State University Veterinary School NCSU Ophthalmology discusses those problems and what owners should be looking for.  You can see more information on the Equine Medical Services: Ophthalmology website.

Understanding Seed Labels

As a horse owner, you always have to think ahead in order to stay ahead.  Even though we are in the winter months now, Spring is right around the corner which means you should be thinking about Spring pastures and possibly pasture renovations.  Here are a few helpful hints to make sure that you are getting the best seed for your money.

There is a “Seed Law”.  This law requires seed being sold to adhere to a minimum set of guidelines and standards which should be listed on a suitable label.  The North Carolina Seed Law can be obtained by clicking here.  There are certain exemptions and additional standards which can be found in the NC Administrative Code Title 2, Subchapter 48C (here).  Not all bags of seeds are created equal, even if they follow the seed law.  There is a large amount of variation in seed quality.  Adherence to the seed law only guarantees that the bag of seed you are purchasing meets the claim on the bag so it is important to shop around and compare labels.

So what has to be on the label?  What does this information mean? (Information from “A Simplified Guide to Understanding Seed Labels")

·      Variety and Kind – Cultivar/release name, species and common name

·      Lot number – A series of letters or numbers assigned by the grower for tracking purposes

·      Origin – Where the seed was grown

·      Net weight – How much material is in the container

·      Percent pure seed (purity) – How much of the material is actually the desired seed

·      Percent inert matter – How much of the material in the bag is plant debris or other materials that are not seed

·      Percent other crop seeds – Other non-weed seeds

·      Percent weed seeds – Seeds considered weed species

·      Name of restricted noxious seed (with number per pound of seed).  Noxious weed species vary by state.  There are 2 types of noxious weeds – restricted and prohibited.  Restricted weeds are listed as number of seeds per pound of material in the bag.  There should be NO prohibited weeds.

·      Percent germination (germ) – An average percentage of seed that will germinate readily

·      Hard seed – Seed which does not germinate readily because of a hard seed coat

·      Dormant seed – Seed which does not germinate readily because it requires a pre-treatment or weathering in the soil.  (Some suppliers may combine hard and dormant seed on the label).

·      Germination test date – Date should be within 12 months of the planned date for using the seed

·      Name and address of the company responsible for analysis (seller or grower)

Seed Label Example:  If a variety is not stated, the seed label must be labeled as a "mix".

The Natural Resources Conservation Service’s Plant Materials Program recommends using seed labels to help you shop around for the best value that will meet your needs.  They suggest that you always check the purity/germination and if it is very low, you might not want that variety or mix.  If noxious weeds are listed on the tag, take into account that they could most likely become a problem in your pasture by becoming hard to control and outcompeting your desirable grass.  NRCS also suggests that you purchase seed based on the Pure Live Seed (PLS) which you will use to calculate the amount of seed you will need for planting.  Their calculations are as follows:

You need to determine viability first.

Viability = germination + hard seed + dormant seed

The second step is to calculate the amount of Pure Life Seed (PLS).

PLS = %purity x %viability

                      100

Finally, to calculate the amount of seed needed for planting. . .

Bulk seed/acre = lbs. of PLS recommended per acre

                                                 Percent PLS

Seed inspectors visit dealers regularly to spot check seeds.  During checks, inspectors take random samples of bags to have them analyzed for accuracy by NCDA&CS Seed Lab.  If there is a discrepancy in the sample versus its label, a “stop-sale” notice is issued until the seed is brought back within standard and meets the label claims.  Inspectors and dealers usually work together to make sure that consumers are being supplied the best seed possible.

Now that you hopefully have a better understanding of seed tags, go ahead and start shopping around for your spring pasture needs.  For more information, please contact your local Agriculture Extension Agent.

References:   

Englert, J.M. 2007.  A Simplified Guide to Understanding Seed Labels. Maryland Plant Materials Technical Note No. 2.  USDA-NRCS National Plant Materials Center, Beltsville, MD. 3p.

Ferguson, J.M., et al.  2017.  Seed and Seed Quality.  AG-448.  NC State Extension.  Raleigh, NC.  29p.

Horses and Water in the Winter

We mostly worry about horses getting enough water during the warmer months or when they are working and need lots of water and electrolytes.  However, even in the cold months when we aren’t riding nearly as much, a horse will need up to 10 gallons of fresh clean water per day.  This amount is generally agreed to be needed to prevent colic, dehydration, or worse. 

Cold weather provides some unique challenges to making sure that horses drink enough water.  If the water is too cold, many horses will refuse to drink it.  Warming the water a bit may encourage a horse to go ahead and take a drink.  This can also help to warm the horse in cold weather.

Most horses are fed dried forages in cold months after having grazed on succulent forage that contained quite a bit of moisture.  This change can lead to a higher water requirement per day than was needed during warmer months. Be sure that the water supply is palatable and that there is plenty offered.

Folks taking horses to shows to trail rides may have experienced a horse refusing to drink because the water tastes different than what they are used to.  A way to alleviate this would be to add flavor to the home water to get the horses accustomed to it before travelling.  Keep adding the electrolytes or apple juice while away from home so the taste is nearer to what the horse is used to.

Dehydration can happen at any time of year and is extremely serious.  Strenuous exercise, stress, and diarrhea are considered the most common triggers for dehydration, but even simpler causes like different taste can cause refusal and lead to dehydration.  The moral of the story is to make sure that water is available in sufficient quantities and to make sure that the horse is actually drinking that 5 to 10 gallons each day.

Signs of dehydration include:  sunken eyes, dullness, drawn up flanks, depression, and excessively thick saliva.  A simple way to check for dehydration is to use the pinch test – pinch up a fold of skin and then release it.  The skin should immediately resume its natural position.  If the skin remains in a ridge for 2 to 5 seconds, the horse could be experiencing dehydration.  If the skin remains in a ridge for 10 to 15 seconds, call a veterinarian.

The article “How much Drinking Water Does Your Horse Need” by Penn State Extension Horse Specialist Ann M. Swinker has more information on water for horses, preventing dehydration, and recognizing the signs of dehydration in horses.  Click on the title of the article to see the publication.

Rabies in Horses

When we think of rabies, we typically do not think of it infecting our livestock.  In North Carolina, dogs, cats, and ferrets are required to be vaccinated against rabies. Livestock (cattle, horses, goats, and sheep) are not required to receive a rabies vaccine.

North Carolina averages around five cases of livestock rabies each year.  For 2017, there have already been five cases.  State Veterinarian Doug Meckes is encouraging North Carolina livestock owners to consider having their animals vaccinated against rabies.  “Horses, cattle and goats are naturally curious animals, which puts them at risk for a bite if a rabid animal gets through their fence line,” Meckes said.  The vaccine can only be administered by a licensed veterinarian, certified vaccinator, or a registered veterinary technician that is supervised by a licensed veterinarian.  You will need to have written verification and vaccinate yearly.

How do you know if your horse has been exposed to rabies?  Since rabies is primarily transmitted in saliva through a bite, there are three ways to determine exposure:

1– Direct visualization of a known rabid animal biting the horse.

2– Evidence of a bite wound from a known rabid animal.

3– Rabies vector species (fox raccoon, etc.) has been seen near the wounded horse.

What does rabies look like in horses? 

 Equine rabies symptoms include lameness, poor coordination, drooped head/lips, difficulty   swallowing, focusing on the bite wound, aggressive behavior, and paralysis.  Rabies in horses has been known to mimic colic symptoms!

Photo Credit: TheHorse.com

 The incubation for rabies is between two weeks and six months. Once symptoms appear, the disease is almost always fatal.  I would encourage you to talk to your veterinarian about the risk of rabies in your area and preventative vaccinations.  For more information:

http://www.ncagr.gov/vet/FactSheets/Rabies.htm

Information Source: NCDA&CS