Sugar In Grasses

How long does it take for grasses to use up their sugar storage after the sun sets? Grasses build up sugar storage throughout the day by photosynthesis. The sugar storage allows the grass to continue to grow though the night. The sugar level varies due to numerous factors including weather, stress level of grass, maturity, time of year, and the time of day. Grasses have higher sugar levels later in the day compared to the early hours of the day. It takes several hours after the sun sets for sugar levels to drop. Sugar levels start building back up again with sun exposure.

For horses that have health issues that include sugar sensitivity, allotted time on grass is critical. These heath issues include insulin resistance, equine metabolic syndrome, and a history of laminitis. Horses with these health issues should graze in the early morning hours. It takes several hours for the sugar levels to drop after the sun sets, so avoid grazing before 3 a.m. Because sugar levels start to rebuild with sun exposure, removing sensitive horses from pasture by the late morning is important. If there is substantial cloud cover, sensitive horses may graze longer due to slower photosynthesis and lower sugar levels. Another environmental factor that effects the sugar levels is temperature. When the temperatures overnight reach 40^oF and below the plants growth rate slows and stored sugars are not used. This still is a risk for sensitive horses in the early morning hours because the sugar levels are high. It is always good to talk with a vet or nutritionist about a horse with sugar sensitivity and come up with a good grazing plan and supplemental feedstuff rations to keep horses as heathy as possible.

Another factor that plays a part in sugar levels is grass height. Most of the sugar is stored in the bottom 3-4 inches of the plant. It is easy to think that an over grazed pasture would be safe because “there is nothing out there”. Stressed pastures where only the lower part of the plant is available means high sugar levels. This is why rotational grazing is crucial for pastures. Adequate rest periods allow grass to grow and horses are able to graze the taller less sugary parts of the forage. It is better for the plant and horse to stop grazing pastures at 3-4 inches. This not only lowers sugar intake by the horse but also allows the plant enough leave structure to enable regrowth.

With an understanding of pasture grass metabolism and good pasture and grazing management, many horses should be able to graze at least part of the day. If a horse has a sugar sensitive health concern, always consult with a vet or an equine nutritionist for the best grazing plan with supplemental feedstuff rations. A Cooperative Extension Livestock Agent is also capable of helping form a grazing plan after a horse owner has consulted with a vet. The Extension Agent will be useful in providing information on grass varieties and when to plant for different growing seasons.

Got Power?

This may be somewhat of a random post - but it's meant to get you thinking.  On our farm, we just installed automatic waterers for our cow herd - yes, I know this is a horse blog - but stick with me.  We are so excited (and so relieved) to have this project done.  Now, our cattle can have fresh water without us having to fill up the tanks or accidentally let them overflow.  However, the other night we went out for supper with friends.  On the way home, a cousin that lives beside called to see if our power was out.  Once we got home,  it was evident that we had lost power too.

Thankfully, we have a generator so we were able to hook that up fairly quickly to run our refrigerator and freezer in the house, have the well pump work so that we would have running water and have lights.  Unfortunately, our electric fence box, refrigerator in the shop and the new well to supply the newly installed automatic waterers all run off a different electric supply box.  So, we had to run drop cords to the electric fence box and the refrigerator in the shop.  We also knew that if the power did not come back on fairly quickly, we would have to supply water to the herd they way we did prior to the automatic waterers - water hoses and 300 gallon tanks.  Luckily, the power company got the power restored in about two hours.

So, what's the point of all this rambling.  This was not a hurricane or an ice/snow storm.  We actually did not even have a thunderstorm at our house.  A storm did pass to our south, and probably caused a tree to go down.  But this was a random power outage. 

My point is to be prepared if you have animals.  Power outages can happen anytime.  They may need to cut power to repair lines, there could be a summertime thunderstorm or someone could take out a power pole in an accident.    Short outages may not cause much of an issue, but that could be dependent on what type of animals you have.  Some animals are always looking to test an electric fence.

Not everyone has the same situation or can use the same fix for this problem.  But I would encourage you to think about what would happen if you lost power while you're out for supper.  Or if you're on vacation and have someone taking care of your place and animals.  Do you have a generator?  Even if you don't have automatic waterers, you more than likely depend on well water for your animals.  Those wells don't work without power.  This time of year, it would be hard to store much water due to heat and pests (mosquitoes and their eggs).  If you have a generator, do you have enough fuel to run if for a while.  Do you have enough drop cords to power everything you need to power?  Do you have instructions for all this if someone else is taking care of your critters?   Would a stand-by generator work for your situation?

Again, what works on my farm might not work on yours.  Think about what you might do if a neighbor calls to tell you the power is out.

Managing Fire Ants in Pastures

The information for this article is taken from the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Livestock Webinar Series, “Managing Fire Ants in Pastures”, by Dr. Wes Watson.

In the 1930’s the red imported fire ant entered the United States through ports in Mobile, Alabama, from South America. The first fire ants in North Carolina were spotted in 1952. Since then, they have become a huge problem for North Carolina. Fire ants build their mounds in sunny areas and may build next to a structure such as the base of a tree or the side of a barn. They also have a stinger that they will not hesitate to use when they feel threatened. As many people in North Carolina already know, these ants are highly aggressive when they are disturbed. 

The red imported fire ant can be distinguished from native ants by the type of mound they build. Fire ant mounds are dome shaped and have no central opening. Native ants create a clear opening and are oftentimes more inconspicuous when compared to the fire ant mound.  Native ants are considered a beneficial insect and should not be disturbed unless absolutely necessary.

Although native ants may be good to have around, this is not the case with fire ants. They can cause damage and injury around the home or farm. Fire ants may climb into electrical infrastructure or equipment and cause failure or damage. These insects also infest feed. Fire ants may be able to find their way into feed storage containers unless they are properly sealed. Hay and forage are very easily infested by ants. These ants can severely reduce the quality of hay. North Carolina currently has a red imported fire ant quarantine area set up in the state for hay transportation. Farmers that transport hay must follow the regulations to help limit the spread of the red imported fire ant. Go to the following link for more information and details. Link-http://www.ncagr.gov/plantindustry/Plant/entomology/documents/ncifaquarantine.pdf

Fire ants are part of a group of insects called hymenoptera. This group includes insects such as bees, wasps, and hornets. Fire ant stings are particularly dangerous because they can cause an allergic reaction. Foals and other newborn livestock are more vulnerable to injury by fire ants. Fire ants may cause death to vulnerable animals if they receive enough stings. 

When treating fire ants, many people have home “remedies” that they use. It is advised to stay away from these home remedies because they seldom work or may cause damage to yourself or the environment. In many cases, the fire ants just move the mound to a new location.  It is recommended to select a pesticide and apply using one of the following control methods.

There are two main methods of applying a fire ant pesticide, broadcast or individual mound treatment. Broadcast treatment offers a treatment over a large area. This may be the best method for pastures.Broadcast treatment is easier to apply but takes longer to work. Individual mound treatment is more labor intensive and leaves a surface residue; however, it works much more quicker than a broadcast type of treatment. The pesticides may be granular, liquid, dust, or bait.

When baiting fire ants there are a few things that you can do to improve the success rate of the pesticide. To begin, check the manufacture date. Avoid using old or out of date pesticide. Also, don’t apply in the rain or when rain is expected shortly after applying. Next, apply around the mound, not directly on it. Apply when ants are active. They are usually most active in the morning. Finally, inspect the site after the bait has had time to work. Inspecting the site after will give you valuable information on developing next steps for treatment application as needed.

The webinar can be viewed at Managing Fire Ants in Pastures.  Control measures can be found in the article - Fire Ants in Pastures.

Written by Sean Nunnery, Bladen County Summer Intern

Heat Injury Prevention for the Horseman

Last week's post focused on heat injury for horses, so I thought this week would be a good time to remind us of the dangers and precautions to take for ourselves, too! As hot as it has been lately and will continue for the next month or two, it’s never too late to review ways to protect yourself from heat exhaustion and heat stroke.  Most certainly, horse owners, trainers, and anyone riding are out in the heat and humidity enough to experience risky conditions.  To help with this, the following information has been supplied by the US Department of Labor Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA):

When the body is unable to cool itself through sweating, serious heat illnesses may occur.  The most severe heat induced illnesses are heat exhaustion and heat stroke. If left untreated, heat exhaustion could progress into heat stroke and possible death.  When temperatures exceed 85 degrees and 30% humidity we should be cautious, but once they exceed 95 degrees and 60% humidity, the danger escalates.

Symptoms of heat exhaustion include headaches, dizziness or lightheadedness, weakness, mood changes such as irritability, confusion or the inability to think straight, upset stomach, vomiting, decreased or dark colored urine, fainting or passing out, and pale, clammy skin.  To minimize and prevent heat exhaustion, the following steps should be taken:

1. Act immediately.  If not treated, heat exhaustion may advance to heat stroke or death.
2. Move the victim to a cool, shaded area to rest.  Don’t leave the person alone.  If symptoms include nausea or upset stomach, lay the victim on his or her side.
3. Loosen and remove any heavy clothing.
4. Have the person drink cool water (about a cup every fifteen minutes) unless sick to the stomach.
5. Cool the person’s body by fanning and spraying with a cool mist of water or applying a wet cloth to the person’s skin. 
6. Call 911 for emergency help if the person does not feel better in a few minutes.

Heat Stroke includes the same symptoms as heat exhaustion, but may also include dry, pale skin with no sweating, hot red skin that looks sunburned, seizures or fits, and unconsciousness with no response.

In addition to the above steps for heat exhaustion, during heat stroke you should also:

-       Lay the victim on his or her back in a cool, shaded area and move any nearby objects away from the person if symptoms include seizures or fits.  If symptoms include nausea or upset stomach, lay the victim on his or her side.

-       Cool the person’s body by fanning and spraying with a cool mist of water or wiping the victim with a wet sheet.

-       Place ice packs under the armpits and groin area.

Anyone who works in the heat should protect themselves and coworkers through the following tips:

-       Learn the signs and symptoms of heat-induced illnesses and how to respond.

-       Perform the heaviest work during the coolest part of the day.

-       Build up tolerance to the heat and the work activity slowly (usually over two weeks)

-       Use the buddy system, with people working in pairs.

-       Drink plenty of cool water, about a cup every 15-20 minutes.

-       Wear light, loose-fitting, breathable clothing, such as cotton.

-       Take frequent, short breaks in cool, shaded areas to allow the body to cool down.

-       Avoid eating large meals before working in hot environments.

-       Avoid alcohol or beverages with caffeine. These make the body lose water and increase the risk for heat illnesses.

There are other factors that may put you at risk for heat injury. These may include wearing personal protective equipment such as a respirator or protective suit that will retain heat, having a previous heat-induced illness, and taking certain medications.  When on medications, check with your healthcare provider to see if any medicines you are taking affect you when working in hot environments. 

Hopefully these tips will serve as a reminder to us all to slow down and cool off as we get through the remaining weeks of summer.  Keep yourself (and your horse) cool and hydrated every chance you get! 

Avoiding heat stress in horses

We all know the age old adage “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” and this certainly rings true for heat stress in our animals. Knowing the signs of heat stress and how to prevent them can save you a scary situation this summer.

Here are some ways to avoid heat stress:

·         Provide plenty of fresh, clean water.  Make sure your horses’ water is free from algea, insects and bird droppings.  Horses tend to not drink warm or hot water so changing the water out once a day or keeping it in a shaded area will help keep the temperature down.  These things will help promote drinking throughout the day.

·         Work your horses early in the morning or late in the evening when the temperatures are cooler.

·         If you do work your horses during high temps and high humidity, monitor them closely for signs of heat stress and provide a long, slow cool down period.

·         Provide shade for your horses.  This can be in the form of a structure or trees, just somewhere to get out of the sun.

·         If your horse is in the barn during the day make sure they have plenty of airflow.

Signs of a heat stroke may include the following:

·         Rapid breathing, rapid pulse

·         Stumbling, weakness, depression

·         Body temperature as high as 105 to 107 F

·         Refusal to eat or work

·         Dry skin and dehydration

·         In severe cases, a horse may collapse or go into convulsions or a coma

If you think your horse may be experiencing heat stress, contact your vet immediately to determine what steps you should take to cool your horse down.  Most of the time supportive care can turn a heat stressed animal around with little medical intervention, but it is always a good idea to consult your vet for their recommendations.

What electrolytes should I give my horse?

Long summer days mean more time in the saddle for horse owners.  With all the extra exercise, should we be supplementing electrolytes?

What are electrolytes?

Electrolytes are body salts, or minerals, that regulate the function of the cells - specifically body fluids, blood pressure, muscle control, and nerve activity.  The five major electrolytes are Calcium (Ca+), Sodium (Na+), Potassium (K+), Chlorine (Cl-), and Magnesium (Mg++).  Since electrolytes are suspended in water, they are mostly lost through sweat and urine.  During strenuous exercise, electrolytes lost in sweat will appear as a foamy, white sticky lather.  However, a well-trained, well-conditioned horse will lose fewer electrolytes per volume of sweat.  For the most part, the loss of electrolytes can contribute to fatigue and neuromuscular depression (low-frequency nerve stimulation).  Additional effects involving specific mineral are shown below:

How many electrolytes should I give my horse?  

In truth, the average horse's electrolyte needs are met from forages, grain mix, and a premixed mineral - even after light to moderate exercise.  The chart below depicts the daily electrolyte requirements:

For the most part, as long as the horse is in good condition, is fed a balanced diet, and has plenty of access to fresh, clean water, it should be able to maintain their electrolyte balance on their own on a daily basis.  The only exception would be after a particularly grueling workout (think endurance trail riding), or during extreme temperature and humidity.  A general rule of thumb for extreme temperature and humidity is when the sum of the temperature and humidity exceeds 150.  

How to supplement electrolytes?

There are several commercial electrolyte solutions available on the market.  Make sure to read the label thoroughly before administering it.  Some electrolytes are best suited to be added to water, while others are formulated to be added to grain mixes.  If you are supplementing electrolytes in water, be sure to use two buckets - one with the electrolyte solution and one with plain, freshwater.  Also, keep in mind, that some horses, even those with mild electrolyte depletion, may not be inclined to drink water.  It is also recommended to supplement grain-fed electrolytes 2-4 hours before exercising and again 2 hours after exercising. 

Check out this short, mini-podcast for more information on SELECTING THE BEST ELECTROLYTE FOR YOUR HORSE.  Or listen to the full, 1-hour podcast on HOT SUMMER DAYS AND YOUR HORSE.