A Plan for Breeding

Now is the most opportune time to be thinking and planning for the breeding season. The first question that should be asked when considering to breed the mare or not is, 'What is going to happen to the foal?' This should be thought out from the very beginning. According to the, Unwanted Horse Coalition there is an estimated 170,000 unwanted horses in the United States therefore this decision should be thought out thoroughly.

After there is a plan established for the foal ask yourself, 'Should I even breed my mare?' There is not a quick and easy answer to this question, but for a horse owner should think about the cost of the initial breeding whether breeding is done naturally or artificially. With both options, it would be a good idea to get a general price range from a veterinarian on the cost of their visits that may occur during the pregnancy and foaling so as a horse owner, you know what to expect in terms of financial limitations.

Also take into consideration there are no certainties with birth, births can and do go wrong occasionally. This is why a thorough pre-breeding evaluation should be preformed by your veterinarian 6-8 months before breeding time. This evaluation will not guarantee the safe deliverly of a foal but can help prevent problems from occurring.

The next thing a horse owner should do is decide on the stallion. A good stallion is important to have therefore it is important to find out all the information about the stallion first. Ask the stallions owner to show proof of previous breeding records or some sort of references. Reproductive traits are important to consider as well as his disposition when deciding. When making the arrangements to have a mare bred naturally, be sure to understand the breeding contract, if one is present. Ask a non-biased, experienced person like your veterinarian to help with understanding the contract.

Decide as a breeding manager when you want the mare to foal and decide if that is critical to your management plan for that individual foal. If you want the mare to be bred earlier than the natural breeding season (May-September) then artificial lighting will be needed. If you decide to breed earlier in the season, consult your veterinarian for advice and assistance.

Overall, it is a big decision to breed a mare or not. Many factors like financial stability of the breeder, is the mare capable of breeding, deciding on the right stallion, knowing the physical boundaries of yourself as a breeder, and the most important factor, what is the purpose of the bringing the foal into the world.

For more information, contact your local equine veterinarian or you can view this article Breeding Your Mare from the University of Minnesota.

Are you over-drugging your horse?

By: Dr. Niki Whitley, NCA&TSU CEP

When easy-to-use, effective horse dewormers were introduced, horse owners were advised to deworm all horses every 8 weeks and to rotate among dewormer classes.  This is a very common recommendation even today.  But is this 40-year-old practice still the best recommendation for horse owners?

Many horse owners are driven by fear when following deworming recommendations and drug companies probably feed into that fear.  However, according to equine parasite expert, Dr. Ray Kaplan, most adult horses will remain quite healthy with much fewer treatments than what is currently recommended (work with your veterinarian to determine your situation).

Why would this issue even come up if horse owners are happy giving the drugs and the horses are healthy?  Well, the same problem that plagues the sheep and goat industry (worm resistance to dewormers) has also been found in the horse industry. 

Resistance of small strongyles to benzimidazoles (Safeguard®, Panacur®, Anthlecide®, Benzelmin®, etc.) is well-known, occurring in over 21 countries, including the U.S.  Over 40% of farms tested in KY had worms that were resistant to benzimidazoles and pyrantel pamoate (such as in Strongid®, Exodus®, Rotectin®, etc.) and some farms showed reduced activity to ivermectin (perhaps an indication of the beginning of resistance).  Other worms have also started showing resistance.

In order to prevent dewormer resistance, many of the same internal parasite management recommendations can be made for horses as for sheep, goats and cattle. Managing pastures and stocking rates is important for all species. Multi-species grazing can help control worms (as long as the species don’t share worms; sheep/goats share worms with each other but not with horses and cattle).  One of the best methods to help control resistance to dewormers is to only treat those animals needing it. Don’t over-drug your horses.

How do you know if a horse needs to be dewormed?  In a population of mature animals, only a very few carry heavy worm burdens and they can really infect the pastures with worm eggs. Dr. Kaplan recommends working with your veterinarian, having fecal egg counts conducted to determine which animals have a problem and concentrate mostly on those animals, using a strategic deworming program.

More information is available from www.thehorse.com in a compilation of 12 articles on internal parasites of the horse called “Bad Bug Basics”.  Always consult your veterinarian if you have concerns about your horses. 

Source:  “Current concepts for parasite control in horses: It ain’t the 60’s anymore”, by Dr. Ray Kaplan (Proceedings of the 27^th Annual Alberta Horse Owners and Breeders Conference, January, 2009). 

Managing Forages for Dry Weather

1. Before dry weather hits:

• Have a good maintenance program for your pastures. Conduct a soil test and follow recommendations though guidance from your Extension Agent for nutrients and lime. Good weather is a great time to manage troublesome weeds. During bad weather those weed problems tend to worsen.
• Organic matter increases soil’s water holding capacity so adding it to soil can help long-term but be mindful of nutrient buildup. When soil pH is too low or high, many nutrients are not available to the plant. Adding nitrogen during drought can be costly and counterproductive. Lime won’t dissolve very quickly without rain.

2. When dry weather hits:

• Don’t graze grass too short – bermudagrass in dry weather is best kept at 3” tall vs. in good weather at 2” tall. Fescue: 6” is optimum, especially if the weather is beginning to get dry. If you allow horses to over-graze, this removes too much of a plant’s reserves and it takes longer for the plant to grow

          back.  Rest periods are especially important, more so during droughts. Just like we need

         extra rest when it’s hot and dry, so do our forages.

  

• According to Liebig’s Law of the Minimum, lack of moisture is the first priority for our crops. If our forages do not have adequate moisture, then worrying about insects and diseases (priority number 7) is not a significant limitation on our forages compared to the other things plants need (Source: Havlin, J. L. et al. 2005. Soil Fertility and Fertilizers, 7^th ed.).

• Check nitrates before feeding and/or cutting for hay. You can take a forage sample before cutting or after hay has been baled. If sampling in the field, randomly snip grasses from the field at mowing height and add these clippings to a gallon-sized ziplock bag. If sampling from the bale, preferably use a hay corer and randomly remove about 20 cores. Mix the hay cores and add to a quart-sized ziplock bag. Submit the samples with proper forms to your Extension Agent for analysis at NCDA & CS Forage Lab. You can also ask the lab for a full analysis. If you do have high nitrates, check with your Extension Agent and talk about where your current levels are. There may be options for using the hay if nitrates are elevated: mixing with another hay to dilute nitrate, add alternative feeds (besides hay), or wrap to ensile hay. Do not turn hungry animals onto high nitrate hay!

• Watch fertilization timing and rate. Sometimes it’s not too much nitrogen; it’s the wrong time. Use your soil test to help determine the proper amount of nitrogen but do not apply nitrogen when plants are experiencing stress due to heat and/or low rainfall.

• Watch for toxic plants! Many plants that are toxic are drought-tolerant, some, such as horsenettle, even keep their green color during drought and may look more attractive than forages. Weigh the pros and cons of weed control methods. Many herbicides are not effective or very effective when soil is very dry, and plants will need adequate rain even when water is applied through spray solution. Sometimes the dryness causes forages to absorb too much of the herbicide and there is more damage to forage than usual. Wait until adequate rainfall for most herbicides. Mowing can give temporary control.

• Follow proper timing and rate for seeding and/or sprigging—for the coastal plain area of North Carolina (except heavy, darker soils), the best dates for seeding bermudagrass are April 1-May 15 but possible dates are March 15-June 7. For sprigging bermudagrass, best dates are March 1-March 31 and possible dates are February 15-April 15 or as late as July if irrigated. Sprigging or seeding later than these dates may increase the chances of dry and/or hot conditions interfering with establishment.

• Often when we experience prolonged dry conditions, seedheads form lower to the soil surface or stunting may occur. Even with adequate rainfall after seedheads have formed, growth could be significantly inhibited. It may be beneficial to graze the grass lightly to encourage regrowth.

3. Recovery Period:

• Once rain finally falls, weeds can grow very fast – be prepared! Know what kinds of weeds you normally have a problem with. A number of weeds can grow extremely fast once they have rain. In fact, pigweed can grow 2 to 5 inches in 3 days or less. Once you know what you have, pick a strategy: mowing, herbicides, and management. Always use herbicides according to the label, at the correct rate. A couple of benefits of herbicides in pastures is to remove undesirable weeds to increase quality and to decrease competitiveness for forage. Weigh the costs and benefits of herbicides closely and consult your Extension Agent.

• Fertilization is affected by when recovery takes place. Don’t over-fertilize right before dormancy of bermudagrass and don’t fertilize fescue in the heat of summer, particularly from April to August. If we are dry during May, June, and July then finally get rainfall in August, fertilize very lightly. Bermudagrass does not need a flush of growth just before dormancy.

Preparing for Equine Disasters

We are in the middle of hurricane season. Typically we don’t start having to worry about storms until August or September. So that gives you plenty of time to start preparing for a potential disaster. And if you think it won’t happen to me, just think back a couple of months ago to when all the spring storms when spawning tornadoes every few days. Those folks likely thought the same thing. A few minutes of preparation can be the difference between a good and bad outcome. It’s better to be prepared days, weeks or even months ahead of time than to be prepared one day (or minute) to late. The lists below are just a suggestion of what to do to prepare for an emergency situation. Every farm, horse owner, horse and situation are different. The idea is to take the steps to be prepared so that when a disaster strikes, you know what to do. You don’t want to have to develop a plan when it’s time to take action.

Equine Disaster Preparedness

These suggestions can be used to be prepared for any type of disaster – natural or manmade. Although these ideas were written with horses in mind, they can be tailored to fit any animal. The following suggestions are from the Equine Disaster Response Alliance which is a collaborative effort between groups representing the equine industry and horse owners.

How to Prepare for a Disaster

• Be familiar with the types of disasters that can occur in your area and develop a written plan of action for each
  
• Keep a stock of hay, grain, water, medications and veterinary supplies
  
• Decide where you will take your horses if evacuation becomes necessary
  
• Keep your horses' vaccinations and boosters up-to-date
  
• Compile all important document in one location This should inlcude:
• Registration papers
• Medical history, dosages and type of medications/health products required
• Dietary requirements
• Current Coggins test
• Photographs (left & right side, face, medial and lateral lower legs as well as a photo of you with your horse)
  
• Train your horse to load and unload

Marking Horses

Make ID tags such as luggage tags for your horse. On each tag, clearly write your name, address, phone number, horse’s description, feeding instructions, special needs and your vet’s name and phone number. Attach the tag to the halter with duct tape or braid into mane or tail. Do not tie around the tail. Permanent identifications methods, like tattoos, brands, microchips, work well. Small clippers can be used to clip your phone number onto your horse’s neck. An auction crayon can be used to write your number on him. Spray painting the hooves will also help identify the animal.

Items to Have in Case of an Emergency

• Photographs, registration papers and medical records for each horse
  
• Enough hay, gear and water to last three or more day
• Halter and lead for each horse with the horse's name on the halter
  
• Medications and veterinary supplies
  
• Extra feed buckets
• Extra bedding, pitchforks, shovels, and a wheelbarrow
• Portable first-aid kit
  
• Map and list of phone numbers (veterinarian, transporter, insurance company, etc)
  
• Hurricane Preparation 
• (The following information was obtained from a University of Florida Extension Publication.)
  · Make sure you have adequate water stored for all animals
  · If you have large numbers of animals, make sure you have a generator that it is operational and plenty of fuel to run it
  · Keep chlorine bleach on hand because contaminated water may be purified by adding 2 drops of chlorine bleach per quart of water and then letting stand for 30 minutes
  · Store at least 72 hours (7 days is best) of hay and feed. Cover hay with waterproof tarps and store grain in water tight containers.
  · Store lawn furniture, etc to prevent them from becoming projectile objects
  · Place large vehicles and tractors in open fields to prevent tree damage
  · Turn off electrical power to barn and other outbuildings
  · Make sure you have emergency tools on hand such as chain saw and fuel, hammer and nails, fence repair materials, fire extinguisher.
  
  After the storm has passed, you should address this checklist.
  · Inspect animals for injuries and treat appropriately
  · Walk through pasture to access and repair any fence damage and remove any debris that could be harmful to animals
  · Look for and report any downed power lines
  · Take pictures of storm damage
  · If any animals are missing, contact animal control
  
  Phone Numbers:
  
  North Carolina Department of Agriculture (NCDA) – (919) 707-3000
  North Carolina State Veterinarian – Dr. David Marshall – (919) 733-7601
  North Carolina State Animal Response Team – 1-888-989-SART http://nc.sartusa.org/

Here is a link to the North Carolina Department of Agriculture’s Equine Disaster Response Alliance homepage. There is a lot of good information here including a 24 Step Disaster Plan and Tips to Prepare for a disaster.
http://www.ncagr.gov/markets/livestock/horse/EquineDisasterResponseAlliancePartners.htm


Below is a link to the Texas A&M University’s Equine Science Publications page. There are four videos here you can watch that have some good information concerning horses and disasters. Two are related to sheltering livestock in place and the third is about tending to trailers during evacuation.
http://animalscience.tamu.edu/academics/equine/publications/index.htm


Here is a good article from the University of Kentucky on Preparing for Disasters.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id173/id173.pdf


The link below is to a Virginia Tech publication that addresses several types of emergencies that horses may be involved in – from winter storms and fires to trailer accidents and being hit by a car. It also includes a suggested first-aid kit list and an emergency tool list. Remember all equine disasters do not necessarily involve Mother Nature. Many times humans are to blame for the dangerous situations in which horses are placed.
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/406/406-500/406-500.html


Louisiana has certainly had its share of natural disasters. Louisiana State University has a publication that deals with hurricanes. Find it at the link below. Above the horse section, there is some information on disaster preparedness for pet owners. Most folks who have horses also have other pets, so this information would be worth checking out as well.
http://www1.vetmed.lsu.edu/SVM/Visitors/Disaster%20Preparedness/item14821.html#Horse_Owners


The key message is that you need to take the time now to prepare for potential disasters that may strike you and your horses. We sometimes think things like that happen to others and not ourselves. While many of us will remain lucky and not have to deal with disasters affecting our horses, we need to be diligent and proactive horse owners and make the necessary decisions and preparations so that we can safely care for our animals.

Recommendations for Preventing Horse Barn Fires

I attended a Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue training in September that had a simulated barn fire demonstration.  Class members who were fire fighters put on turn out gear for the mock rescue.  One class member acted as the owner and another acted as a neighbor.  The owner was able to save two horses and the neighbor helped rescue one before the firefighters determined it was unsafe for them to continue.  Standing in a stall and watching the rescue opens your eyes to potential things that can slow the rescue down and how hard it would be in a real barn fire.  For example, they had trouble opening the door latches and they could not get halters on some horses and wasted time trying to halter them.

Fire Basics

Fires can occur at any time, but most fires occur in the winter.  Fire investigation experts estimate that over 85% of unintentional barn fires are due to human error (such as smoking) or electrical malfunctions.  Most fires burn rapidly and there is a three to five minute window to save an animal.  A volunteer fire department is usually the first responder and their main job is to rescue humans first.  The owner and bystanders may be the horse rescuers.  Animals generally die from smoke inhalation or effects of radiant heat, not direct fire contact. 

Fire Prevention Measures

Prevention, preparation and planning is the key to fire protection.  The following are steps to reduce the chances of a fire in your facility.  All horse barns have the following things in common:  wood construction – either total or partial; bedding straw or shavings in stalls; storage of hay, bedding straw, or shavings in close proximity to the barns; highly combustible materials within (leather, blankets, ropes, etc.); and people.

Have a fire plan that is posted in visible areas in the barn, at the front gate, with a neighbor and at the local fire department.  The plan should have exact directions to the barn.  Being able to tell the dispatcher where the farm is located can decrease the time it takes the fire department to get to the fire. Other plan items should include the barn layout, number of stalls and horses on site, water supply, electric supply shut-off switch or breaker, hay storage, hazardous materials, emergency contact numbers including the veterinarian, and location of pastures and holding areas.

Contact your local fire department or the county Fire Marshall for a barn walk through/inspection.  A set of eyes that is trained in fire prevention can make recommendations on unsafe practices that you may not be aware of.  They will be familiar with your facility in case of a fire and can tell you if you need to modify anything such as fire truck access to the barn.

Practice your plan at least every three months and every month for public facilities or boarding barns.  Learn to use a fire extinguisher and make sure they are located in the barn and are easy to access.       

Keep the barn neat and clean.  Dispose of debris (especially flammable debris) regularly.  Avoid storing hay and bedding in the barn.  It is recommended to store it in another building.  Keep the alleyway in front of stalls free of debris and open at all times to give easy access to each stall door in case of fire.  Have halters and lead ropes easily accessible on stall doors.  

Do not allow smoking in the barns, stalls, tack rooms, or sheds. No open fires or flames should be allowed.  Install an adequate number of water outlets and have hoses attached to each.

Check all electrical wiring periodically for frayed ends, doubled-up extension cords, and other hazards.  Replace them as needed.  All electrical appliances used in the barn area must be in safe working condition, kept a safe distance from flammable materials, and not left unattended.  Fans should be rated for agricultural use – many fires are attributed to household window fans with their lightweight electrical cords.  Electrical wiring should be contained in a metal conduit to prevent rodents from chewing on them and creating a fire hazard.

In addition to these steps, there are construction considerations and designs that may protect your barn such as layout, materials, sprinkler systems, and early warning devices.

What to Do in Case of a Fire

You have seconds to put your plan into action. 

         1. Call 911. You may get the fire under control, but the fire department can make sure that it is completely out.

         2. Have a person open all outside access gates to let the emergency vehicles onto the property quickly. Have them wait at the road to guide emergency responders and make sure the road or driveway stays clear.

         3. With your safety and the safety of other rescuers in mind, begin evacuating horses. Use halters and lead ropes that are hung next to the stalls.

        4. Move the animals to a holding area away from the barn and out of the way of firefighting equipment. Don’t let the horse’s loose outside because they may either run back into the barn or get in the way of firefighters’ efforts.

      5. Carefully remove blankets, halters or other material on the horses.  Hose off horses by spraying water into the air simulating rain.

      6. Any horse which has survived a barn fire should be seen by a veterinarian even if they appear well.