EASTERN EQUINE ENCEPHALITIS - EEE

With the recent hurricane "Irene" horse owners have become worried about EEE (Eastern Equine Enciphalitis). Here is some information that should help when conditions are favorable for mosquitoes and the spread of EEE.

EEE is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system of many species of animals but is most often detected in birds and horses. The disease is transmitted to horses, and sometimes humans, by mosquitoes that have become infected after feeding on birds, which are circulating the virus. This is known as the mosquito/bird transmission cycle. It is important to remember that the virus is not transmitted directly from an infected horse to other horses or people.

Signs in infected horses can be varied but usually begin with fever, depression and listlessness, which then progress to more serious neurologic signs such as in-coordination, stumbling, circling, head pressing, coma and usually death. Once a horse becomes infected with the EEE virus and develops neurologic signs, the disease is fatal in roughly 90% of cases.

In most reported cases, the infected horses are four years or younger and are not current on vaccination against EEE. The initial series of two vaccinations should be given four weeks apart followed by semiannual boosters. In years with an above-average incidence of EEE, vaccination boosters given three times a year are recommended. Ask your veterinarian at what age to begin and the frequency of foal vaccination, as it differs from adult horses.

The use of vaccine to protect horses against EEE and other encephalitic disease, such as West Nile, is only a tool and should be used in conjunction with good mosquito reduction and avoidance measures implemented to protect yourself and your horse. The key is mosquito control to stop the mosquito/bird infection cycle. The most effective method is to destroy the mosquito larval habitat by removing all potential sources of stagnant water, in which mosquitoes might breed. Mosquitoes can breed in any puddle that lasts more than four days. Water buckets, water troughs, wading pools, birdbaths, wheelbarrows, clogged roof gutters, discarded tires, plastic containers or any water-holding container should be cleaned or emptied on a weekly basis. Drill holes in the bottom of containers that are left out-of-doors, turn over wheelbarrows, aerate ornamental pools and stock them with fish or chlorinate them.

In addition to reducing mosquito populations, preventing animals from being exposed to adult mosquitoes is important. Horses should be stabled inside during peak mosquito feeding times, which are dawn and dusk. Use of mosquito-resistant structures such as well-maintained insect screening and fans may reduce potential access of mosquitoes to equine and other livestock hosts. Insect repellants can be effective for humans and have some limited value for horses as well.

Horse owners should use repellents approved for use on horses, but the effectiveness of some formulations under certain conditions (e.g., rain, perspiration) may be limited. Always follow label instructions. Horse owners are encouraged to contact their veterinarian immediately should they notice any signs or symptoms of EEE infection in their horses, especially those exhibiting neurological signs.

This article came from the website : to veiw the whole article click on the link : http://www.freshfromflorida.com/ai/main/eee.shtml

Laura Martin

Wake County Livestock Agent

Sampling Season……….

By Paul Westfall, Granville & Warren County Cooperative Extension

Horse pastures, like pastures for any animal that utilizes forages to meet nutritional needs, require just the right amounts of nutrients in order to have maximum growth and to enhance forage quality. Since overseeding pastures was addressed in an earlier column, I thought this one should focus on meeting the nutritional needs of the grasses and legumes that are either already present in a fall pasture or are being overseeded to improve that pasture over a long period of time. The thought is that providing the right amount of nutrients to the forages will allow the forages to have a better chance of providing the right amount of nutrients to your horses. Pasture grasses that are high in protein and are highly digestible are more cost effective to feed than going to the feed store and purchasing extra supplements or going out and buying “horse hay” at a premium price.

I know this is an old message, but it needs to be heard – get the soil in your pastures tested. Right now is a great time to get that done, as the wait time is as short as it is likely to be at the lab. The only way to know how much lime or fertilizer to apply – and to ensure the right ratio of fertilizer is used – is to see what is already in place. Lime is critical to balance the soil pH for forage production, and the nutrients are the building blocks for forage growth and quality. I know that the ground has been too hard to dig in for most of the summer, but areas that have received rainfall lately may be ready for testing. Instructions for sampling a pasture or field are available at your county Cooperative Extension office.

It’s also time to start taking inventory on what forage is going to be available for the upcoming winter. That inventory should include the amount of hay in storage and what the quality of that hay is. The only way to determine the quality is to get forage samples tested at a qualified lab. For best results, sample each cutting of each field in order to formulate rations to best meet the nutritional needs of your horses at different times during the winter. The NCDA&CS lab in Raleigh is the most cost effective one to use. Your county Cooperative Extension office should have the sampling instructions and forms. Some offices have sampling tools that can be borrowed to take the samples.

The inventory will also allow a horse owner to assess whether or not there is enough pasture and hay available to get through the feeding season. If hay must be purchased, it is usually less expensive in the fall when supplies are relatively high.

I’ve seen a lot of hay that was harvested or purchased and called “high quality” that actually tested at 7% Crude Protein. Some of that hay was pretty high dollar stuff that was transported in from Nebraska or Oklahoma. Not only was it low in protein, but also was pretty highly indigestible. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to pay for or feed hay that might not be better than a snowball.

My point here is that a horse owner needs to know what’s in the forage in order to make the best decisions about what else to feed to the horses to meet the maintenance, gestation, lactation, growth, or work needs of the horses. That information is also needed to make good purchasing decisions when buying forages, too.

I’ll mention one other factor to consider when dealing with hay. A lot of hay doesn’t get the care it deserves once it is harvested. Round bales tend to wait in the field until it is convenient to move them to a storage area. I’ve seen too many storage areas that were not set up very well, causing the bales to deteriorate and mold. If you are harvesting hay for your horses, be sure to get it stored properly to reduce bale loss, and reduce mold, and to keep the forage quality in that hay as high as possible. That means storing round bales on pallets, leaving space between the bales, and covering them if they can’t be stored under a roof. Demand that any hay that you buy has been treated well in storage. If you do purchase hay, consider setting some quality parameters and be sure to review the forage test results before sealing the deal. That’s worth offering a little premium on the price since there is less risk of getting a load of low quality hay from a dealer if quality parameters are set.

Testing. Extension Agents sure say that word a lot. We are just trying to help folks gain some information so decisions aren't made in a vacuum. To sum it up, don’t just guess – get a test! Especially when we are talking about feeding nutrients to our forages in the pasture or the quality of forage being fed to our horses.

Horse Trailering Safety Tips

Last year, I attended a Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue Training. One section was on transportation accidents. The instructor showed many pictures of trailer accidents that ranged from no injuries to serious horse injuries to cases of animal and human deaths. Some of the cases were caused by operator error and could have been avoided. Two areas that are a major concern are poor hitching and tire problems. This article will discuss tips to keep your vehicle and trailer in the best working condition.

Vehicle

Several items to consider on your vehicle include the truck and engine size, electrical and brake systems, hitch type and ball size. The truck and engine size needs to have adequate power and pulling ability. Your vehicle should be the appropriate size to pull the load of the trailer. Do not use a vehicle that is too small or too big for your trailer. The electrical system should provide lights and a trailer braking system.

The vehicle should have a safe, sturdy hitch that is bolted or welded to the frame. Safety chains further attach the trailer to the vehicle. The chains should not drag the ground. The hitch height should be adjusted to allow the trailer to run level down the road. Use the proper ball size for your trailer. The ball and hitch should be checked for wear and tear. Before leaving, confirm the hitch is hooked up properly.

Trailer

Your trailer must be comfortable and safe for your horses. It should have adequate length, width and height. Other items to consider are the floors, mats, padding, ventilation and design. The horse should have room to move back and forth and front and back. A rule of thumb is the trailer should be 10 inches taller than the normal resting position of the horse’s head. Trailer lights are needed for visibility and to indicate changes in trailer movement. Flooring is an important part of the trailer. Check for rotten or broken boards and replace if needed. The floors should not be slick from urine or wear. Rubber mats, wood shavings, and straw are materials to cover wood floors to provide extra cushion and comfort. Proper tire inflation should be maintained at all times. Make sure you have the correct spare tire, jack, and lug wenches for the vehicle and trailer. The trailer should have a “butt bar” or safety chain to keep the horse from pushing on the trailer door.

There are varying opinions on tying a horse or leaving it loose in the trailer. If you tie your horse, make sure there is enough rope so it can move its head and neck adequately for balance. Horses tied too long can turn around or move in the trailer. Always tie with a quick-release knot or easy release panic snaps. During an emergency, do not spend time trying to untie a horse. Use a knife or sharp object to cut the lead rope or halter. Horses can choke to death if not quickly released.

When Driving

Plan your trip in advance and consider possible problems such as time of day to travel, construction or slow traffic areas and other items. Before you leave, double check that everything is properly hooked up and is working - lights, brakes, hitch, and safety chains. Be sure all doors are securely fastened. Drive defensively and look ahead for possible emergencies. Avoid sudden stops and starts.

Teach Your Horse to Trailer

A horse that is comfortable will be less likely to develop bad trailering habits. Training begins at an early age and positive experiences will help teach the horse to load easier. Train the horse with a quiet friend to reduce stress on the horse. Teach the horse to load on both sides.

Summary

Every situation is different, so think about what you can do to make your vehicle and trailer as safe as possible. Plan ahead and think through possible scenarios. If you have questions about your vehicle or trailer, find the answers. Safety should always be your first consideration.

For additional reading, check out these two publications from the University of Tennessee -

Trailering your Horse and Traveling with your Horse.

Weaning Lessons Learned

by Eileen A. Coite, Wayne County Cooperative Extension

A couple of years ago, I had the opportunity of my own personal experience with weaning a foal. Back in college, I had taken the equine breeding and foaling class, but that has been many years ago. It was also a group project with a university mare and foal, and the semester wasn’t long enough to experience weaning. So this time, I not only refreshed my memory of the breeding, gestation, and foaling experience, but also was able to experience the stress that comes along with weaning.

Though I learned many lessons throughout the entire breeding and foaling process, I wanted to focus this article on weaning. I must say weaning was the most stressful part of the entire event for me! I hope that some of my experiences and research may be of help to you if its weaning time, or that you will find some similarities and comfort in decisions you have made when weaning your own foal. The following lessons are in no particular order but things I have learned and noted throughout the process:

Lesson 1: A group is always better. Having one mare and foal I learned tends to be considerably more difficult than having several (or at least more than one). The group can be pastured together and ultimately weaned together, leaving the foals to grow up and bond as a group. In my situation, a “buddy” gelding was used as the companion, and a similar weaning process had to be done all over with separation from the gelding at a later date.

Lesson 2: Utilize creep feeding. Long before the weaning process (usually within the first week or two) the foal should be consuming grain along with milk from the mare. Not only will this help balance out the diet and keep the mare from losing too much weight, it will also help the foal with an appetite during the weaning process. Research has shown that foals should be consuming at least ¾ pound per 100 pound of body weight per day before weaning. Of course, a successful creep feeding program needs to feed the foal and keep the mare out!

Lesson 3: Handle the foal often. This is one thing I definitely believe in doing right. Spending lots of time with the foal through feeding, grooming, leading, etc. is critical. Foal imprinting is something that can be used as a very beneficial aid to experiences later in life. We could spend a whole article discussing imprinting techniques. This should be a priority of your daily routine if at all possible.

Lesson 4: Don’t overcomplicate the feeding regime. There are so many brands and choices of feed on the market, it’s easy to get confused and worried about your foal’s nutrition. At the same time, this is a critical stage in the growing process and will have a lifelong impact on your foal, so underfeeding or poor nutrition at this stage is a major mistake. We have Extension publications that breakdown the nutrient requirements of weanlings and yearlings, and as long as these requirements are met, healthy foals will do just fine. The important thing is to make sure we feed a balanced ration with the right amount of energy, protein, critical amino acids, vitamins and minerals. There are many feeds on the market today that will meet these needs, and the rule of thumb after weaning is to feed approximately 1 pound of concentrate per month of age.

Lesson 5: Make sure to follow your veterinarian’s vaccination and deworming recommendations. Most will recommend that a series of vaccines be given at 5,7, and 9 months of age. Deworming should be done by body weight on a monthly basis at first. Definitely ask your vet what they recommend to get your foal off to a healthy start.

Finally, keep open communication with others and ask the experts. Having a friend or two that have raised foals can be wonderful assets to a positive experience. Make sure to keep in touch with your vet on a regular basis and follow his or her advice. Keep in touch with the breeding farm where your mare was serviced and ask them for tips. Of course, there are plenty of books, magazine articles, and internet resources to consult. It is best to know all the options and seek advice from those that have been there and have the experience and training. Most of all, have fun with your new filly or colt. As with any youngster, they will grow up very fast!

Picking Up After the Storm

Below is an article for livestock about picking up after the storm, but could apply to horses also. Horses need about a gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight, so the average horse would need between 8-15 gallons per day. Another paragraph below is on poisonous plants. Some plants can cause death to the animal, while others will make the animal feel bad and not eat. Some common plants are showy crotalaria, black cherry, pokeberry, jimsonweed, buttercup species, sicklepod, sesbania, horsenettle, black nightshade, poison hemlock, redroot pigweed, milkweed species, hemp dogbane, and mustard species.

Below are some websites with more information on poisonous plants:

Poisonous to Livestock and Pets in NC - http://harvest.cals.ncsu.edu/applications/plant_biology/poisonous/
Poisonous Plants of the Southeastern U.S. - http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0975/ANR-0975.pdf
North Central U.S. - http://www.extension.umn.edu/horse/components/pdfs/PlantsPoisonousHorses.pdf

Picking Up After the Storm On Pasture-Based Livestock Farms
Matt Poore,
Extension Beef Specialist,
NCSU Department of Animal Science

Pasture-based beef, dairy, sheep and goat farmers need to be diligent in checking livestock, repairing damaged infrastructure, and looking for possible hazards in pastures caused by storm damage. Whether the storm was a severe thunderstorm, a hurricane, or a tornado, storm damage can cause acute injury and further damage to livestock if tending to animals and pastures is made a low priority in the recovery process. At a time when there often is damage to personal property including dwellings, outbuildings, and other non-livestock facilities, sometimes the livestock and the pastures take a lower priority. The health and well-being of livestock should be the second priority after the health and well being of farmers and their families.

Immediately after the storm subsides, producers should assess damage both to their infrastructure and their livestock. After they are sure friends and family are out of peril, they should check their pasture infrastructure to make sure that cattle or other livestock are in the pastures they were in before the storm, and that none of the animals are injured. If animals were injured by flying debris, the farmer should contact a veterinarian immediately if the injuries were severe. If conditions are so bad that livestock need to be evacuated, producers should contact their local extension agent, veterinarian, or emergency management officials.

Next, they should check to make sure waterers are operational and that fences are up and intact. If livestock are watered in a pressurized system and power is out, the producer should make haste to use a generator to restore power to the well system, or to provide another source of water (whether that be creating an emergency opening in the fence into a pond or stream, or by hauling water to the animals).

If hauling water, make sure the amount delivered to the animals is adequate. Adult lactating beef cows of average size need to be provided at least 25 gallons per day of fresh water, while dairy cattle would require more. Mature sheep and goats will need 1-3 gallons per day (depending on their size). Cattle in particular may be dangerous when very thirsty. If cattle have been deprived of water for 24 hours or more, producers should take great care when filling water tanks or restoring water flow to small tanks. Cows are likely to fight aggressively to get to the water source, and the cattle or even the farmer may be injured in the struggle.

If electric fencing is in use, producers need to check the power level to make sure the system is operational, and if the power is out, they should restore emergency power to the fence energizer. The perimeter fence should be checked to make sure fallen trees or branches have not downed the fence. If fence damage has occurred, farmers should make every effort to get trees or branches off the fence and should make temporary repairs to keep livestock from wandering out of the pasture. More permanent repairs can be made later in the recovery process. If the system is electric, putting up temporary polywire and temporary posts may be the quickest way to restore the perimeter.

After assessing damage to the livestock and infrastructure, producers should assess other potential hazards caused by storm damage. Debris blown into pastures such as insulation and other building materials (common following tornadoes) may be eaten by livestock, leading to digestive upset and possibly death.

As producers check pasture infrastructure and scout for debris, they should also look for downed wild cherry tree limbs (or fallen wild cherry trees) and immediately either fence them away from livestock or remove them from pastures before livestock consume them. PRUSSIC ACID POISONING FROM CONSUMING WILTED CHERRY LEAVES FOLLOWING STORM DAMAGE IS A VERY COMMON CAUSE OF DEATH IN CATTLE, SHEEP and GOATS. This is an especially great hazard if pastures are short and livestock are hungry, because they may rapidly consume a large amount of the toxic material.

Another potential poisoning that may result from late summer or fall storm damage is acorn poisoning. If there are oak trees in pastures and storms knock many of the green acorns down at one time, livestock may consume enough to be poisoned. As producers scout pastures for damage, they also should be aware of the potential for acorn poisoning. They should note which pastures have the highest levels of acorns, then take steps to keep animals away from them. As with cherry tree poisoning, the greatest risk is when livestock are hungry and pastures are grazed short.

Finally, farmers should make sure livestock have adequate forage or feed, and should check mineral feeders to ensure animals have access to dry mineral (and are consuming the targeted amount). When farmers are hit by storm damage, there is much to think about and sometimes farmers neglect to follow normal management practices once they see that livestock are not injured and that infrastructure is intact. It is very important for animals to continue to have access to adequate forage and mineral supplement. If there is extensive damage to infrastructure, it may be most convenient to confine livestock to one pasture and feed hay until repairs can be made.

After Hurricane Floyd hit the east coast in 1999, livestock specialists and veterinarians received numerous reports of livestock with various health problems for several months after the storm. Investigations of these situations by local livestock agents did not reveal specific issues caused directly by the storm, but rather that some livestock were undernourished because farmers had so many other problems to deal with. In a great many cases, the livestock had no access to a mineral supplement and were suffering from deficiencies. Many mineral feeders had been blown all the way out of pastures, the mineral present was soaked and hardened so that livestock were not consuming it, or minerals had simply not been put out. Trace minerals (including zinc, copper and selenium) are deficient in many areas of the country and are important for the animal to be able to deal with stress and immune challenge.

Storms are an inevitable part of life, and managing damage means more than just cutting trees off fences and making sure livestock are not injured. Immediately following the storm the safety and health of you and your family comes first, but remember to continue to protect the safety and health of the animals you care for as part of your livelihood.

Thoughts for Irene and Your Horses

Thoughts for Irene and Your Horses
Adapted from 24 Step Disaster Plan; The Canadian Horse Journal, May-June 2005 Issue
By Emily Herring; Pender County Livestock Agent

Right now everyone should be getting ready to execute their plan for Hurricane Irene. I have a listed the things you should have done prior to now, but now is not too late to do SOME of these things.
1. Identify on your property the low parts that are prone to flooding and the relatively “safe” places to confine animals.
2. Know where your water and feed is going to come from if and when the electricity is out. Keep feed and hay dry during the event.
3. Know where you are going to take your horses if you should need to evacuate.
4. Take pictures of your horse from all sides and with yourself in the picture. Record its breed, sex, age and color and keep copies with your other important papers. This is to ensure the horse to be returned to its owner.
5. Have all vaccinations up to date and keep all medical paperwork with your other important papers.
6. Have your trailer and truck insured and in good working condition.
7. Make sure your horse will load!!!
8. Keep a stock of hay and grain with any needed medications and first aid kit on hand.

Things to be doing now.
1. Have a halter and lead rope for EVERY horse and make sure it can be easily found, preferably by each horses stall or paddock gates.
2. Have extra feed and water buckets at your barn, this is to be sent with your horse in case of evacuation.
3. Have 3 or more days of feed and hay. Store water in large containers. Keep medications in airtight, waterproof container.
4. Have extra bedding, pitchforks and shovels on hand.
5. Make ID tags for your horses with your name, address, phone number, horses name and description, vets name and number, special needs, and feeding instructions and can be attached to the halters, manes and/or tails.
6. In the event that all horses cannot be evacuated, make sure your barn workers/volunteers are aware of which horses to evacuate first.
7. Have a portable first aid kit ready to go.
8. Have a map of the area, in the event of a disaster, there may be roads closed where you must find alternative routes be sure you are familiar with the area.

Things to do right before the storm, whether right before evacuation or before the storm hits.
1. Put all copies of horses registration papers, vet papers, insurance papers, photos of the horse, and write “Copy” across them. Fill out an index card with the same information as on the ID tag and wrap around the horses halter with duct tape. Do not put original registration papers in the bag.
2. Braid luggage-type tags with the same information on the index card into the horses mane and tail, don’t tie around tail.
3. Find another way to put your information on your horse, granted a tag can come off. If not micro chipped or branded, use spray paint, etch in the hooves or use small clippers to clip your phone number in the horses neck.
4. Get all extra buckets, feed, hay, and first aid kit load up into the trailer for evacuation.
5. Do not wait until the LAST minute to transport your horses, they know when something is going to happen and can become dangerous. Load horses up and send on to evacuation site, if evacuating. Write down and keep in a safe place where your horse has been evacuated to.
6. If you are planning to wait out the storm on your property and not evacuate, it is a good idea to have a piece of plywood board close to your house or barn with the words “Have Horses; Need Help!” or “Have Horses; OK for now” spray painted on. This is to be used to signal to emergency personnel if need be of rescuing after the storm and communication lines are down.

The MOST important things to do and remember are....
1. Know where you are going when and if you decide to evacuate and the different routes to and from the location.
2. Identify your horses, remember tags can come off, and anything can happen during a storm. Not all people are honest and rescuing maybe necessary after the storm therefore photos are great to have in your ziplock bag of important papers that is kept with you.
3. Have a stash of feed, hay, water and your horses medical supplies stored in a dry and/or waterproof containers for three days or more with your horse.

Equine sheltering and other equine information is listed below.
http://www.ncagr.gov/markets/livestock/horse/
- Equine Directory – Source for Emergency Sheltering (left menu - yellow)
- View All Listings (left menu)
- Emergency Boarding Facilities (top right)

Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis Found in Eastern NC

North Carolina’s Office of the State Veterinarian and the Center for Disease Control were notified August 18th that one horse in eastern North Carolina had tested positive for Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE). Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system of all members of the equine species. EEE is classified as a zoonotic disease, meaning humans may also contract the disease. Healthy adults who contract EEE may show flu-like symptoms including high fever and headaches, while older adults and children may become severely ill. Death may result in cases involving both equine and humans. The equine mortality rate due to EEE ranges from 75 to 90 percent.

Equine infected with EEE may show signs that include fever, depression, loss of appetite, irritability, weakness, excitability, central nervous system disorders (ie. circling, lack of coordination, head pressing, the tell-tale “saw horse” stance, sensitivity to light, and blindness). In rare instances, horses have been known to show no signs of the disease prior to death.

Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis is spread when a mosquito feeds on an infected horse, then moves on to a healthy horse. Dr. Ray, Director of Livestock Health Programs for the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services Veterinary Division noted that in many years we would have had one or more cases of the disease prior to early August and, that recent rains following drought conditions in eastern North Carolina may be partially responsible for the presence of the disease.

The best way to protect your equine against EEE is to keep their vaccinations up to-date. Work with your veterinarian to be sure your horses are vaccinated annually. In addition, measures to limit mosquito populations will help decrease spread of the disease. It is also important that horse owners report to a veterinarian, any cases in which signs of EEE are observed. While a few cases of the disease are reported in North Carolina annually, it is thought that many more cases go unreported. Reporting any suspicious signs to your veterinarian may save other equine and possibly human lives.

More information on EEE can be found here.