It has always been a rule of thumb that a mature horse should eat 1-2% of its body weight a day in forages. That means a 1,000-pound horse should eat 10-20 lbs. of good quality hay a day. This number is based off of the dry matter of the feed they are eating. Hay is normally about 90% dry matter because it has been dried and cured. So, if you take that dry matter amount and apply it to standing lush pasture that is normally about 20-30% dry matter that means the dry matter is a lot lower, so in turn the horse has to consume a lot more forage. Eating anywhere from 40-60 lbs. of forage in a day. But we also need to keep in mind that horses shouldn’t be allowed to eat very rich lush pasture 24/7 because it can lead to digestive issues and over eating. Horses are more prone to digestive issues because of the way their digestive system is set up. When a horse eats, the material passes through most of its digestive tract before reaching the main breakdown area of forages which is the cecum. The cecum houses protozoa and bacteria that break down forages so that the horse can absorb nutrients, but because the cecum is near the end of the digestive tract past the small intestine this makes horses not the most efficient eaters. In the body the small intestine is where the majority of nutrient absorption occurs and since that is before where the major break down process of most of the food they are eating, makes them less efficient than other livestock. Just remember that it takes a lot of forages to keep your horses gut operating normally and correctly so make sure they are receiving enough forages. Weigh some flakes of your hay bales to see if they are receiving adequate amounts. They may not be the most efficient eaters but they are more fun to ride than a cow, trust me.
Monday, January 25, 2021
Forage Amounts for Horses
It has always been a rule of thumb that a mature horse should eat 1-2% of its body weight a day in forages. That means a 1,000-pound horse should eat 10-20 lbs. of good quality hay a day. This number is based off of the dry matter of the feed they are eating. Hay is normally about 90% dry matter because it has been dried and cured. So, if you take that dry matter amount and apply it to standing lush pasture that is normally about 20-30% dry matter that means the dry matter is a lot lower, so in turn the horse has to consume a lot more forage. Eating anywhere from 40-60 lbs. of forage in a day. But we also need to keep in mind that horses shouldn’t be allowed to eat very rich lush pasture 24/7 because it can lead to digestive issues and over eating. Horses are more prone to digestive issues because of the way their digestive system is set up. When a horse eats, the material passes through most of its digestive tract before reaching the main breakdown area of forages which is the cecum. The cecum houses protozoa and bacteria that break down forages so that the horse can absorb nutrients, but because the cecum is near the end of the digestive tract past the small intestine this makes horses not the most efficient eaters. In the body the small intestine is where the majority of nutrient absorption occurs and since that is before where the major break down process of most of the food they are eating, makes them less efficient than other livestock. Just remember that it takes a lot of forages to keep your horses gut operating normally and correctly so make sure they are receiving enough forages. Weigh some flakes of your hay bales to see if they are receiving adequate amounts. They may not be the most efficient eaters but they are more fun to ride than a cow, trust me.
Monday, January 11, 2021
Avoiding Colic Issues in Winter
As we head into winter, horse owners face many challenges dealing with the cold weather. Unfortunately, winter can lead to a higher incidence of colic in horses. There are several ways horse owners can help reduce the chance of colic this winter.
The biggest factor to consider is the grazing behaviors of horses. Horses will spend 10-17 hours grazing each day. Their digestive tract is designed to handle a constant stream of forage. If hay and feed are restricted to only one or two times a day, this can create issues with the ability of the gut to digest the hay. Try to space your hay feedings out over the day or provide constant access to hay if possible. Slowing down the consumption rate by using a hay net can help increase the time spent eating. This can also help alleviate boredom in a stall setting.
Many horse owners try to increase grain and concentrates in their horses’ diet in response to cold weather. However, hay does a better job of providing heat without upsetting the digestive tract. Make sure plenty of quality forage is available to help your horse handle the colder temperatures.
Since hay has much less water than pasture, it is important to ensure your horses are getting enough fresh water. Horses often drink less in the winter due to a combination of factors. Try to keep water temperatures above 45 degrees to encourage drinking. Horses also tend to drink more after a meal, so it is important to provide water when feeding. If you provide salt to encourage drinking, you must make sure there is abundant drinkable water. If water troughs are frozen or empty there is the possibility for issues with salt toxicity.
It is very important to have your hay tested. A lab can determine the quality of the hay, including factors such as digestibility. Look for the NDF value on a hay report. The higher the NDF, the less digestible and palatable the hay is. This indicates the hay has more structural carbohydrates which are harder for the gut to digest. Visually, the more stemmy the hay is, the less digestible the hay is and therefore has a greater likelihood of causing impactions. Various factors impact the leaf to stem ratio, including age or maturity of the grass at cutting as well as species of forage. Warm-season grasses like bermuda or bahia grasses tend to have a lower leaf to stem ratio and therefore higher NDF values. Mature plants with lots of seed heads generally have higher NDF values and lower protein and energy.
Another factor to consider is exercise. Movement and exercise help move feed and hay along the digestive tract. Make sure your horse has access to turnout or some form of exercise throughout the day. Even hand walking a horse can help provided needed exercise. This is especially important for horses kept in stalls frequently.
The cold weather is approaching but by taking these simple precautions, you can help prevent colic and impaction issues in your horses this winter.
Monday, December 21, 2020
To Blanket or Not to Blanket?
Courtesy of: Nettie R. Liburt, MS, Animal Science Doctoral Student and Carey Williams, Ph.D., Extension Specialist in Equine Management
As fall arrives and temperatures are cooling, many horse-people may be wondering if blanketing their horses is appropriate. The answer really depends on the individual horse, its physiology, shelter type, tolerance to cold and its activity schedule. Typically in early fall, horse’s coats get a little thicker. Despite even warm fall temperatures, horses naturally begin to grow more hair as the days get shorter. There are no scientific rules about what temperature a horse should have a particular blanket, but if one decides to do so, there are several things to consider.
Clipping
Many owners/riders clip their horses to prevent them from getting a chill if their long winter coats are wet after a workout. Sounds ironic, but clipping a horse for winter can actually help the horse cool out from a workout and prevent a chill caused by a wet coat. However, proper management of a clipped horse is necessary. Whether your horse has a full body clip, trace clip, hunter clip or any kind of clip, one should blanket when the temperature drops, especially for turnout. Some people recommend starting to put sheets on clipped horses when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, however, you should monitor your horse to decide what is best.
If one dreads clipping their horse, but doesn’t want a sweaty horse in January, one can blanket to help prevent a thick winter coat. Training intensity usually diminishes in the winter, and some horses rarely work up a lathered sweat. The catch with this approach is, once the sheeting and blanketing begins, it must continue throughout the season. When horses wear blankets and sheets all the time, it can tend to “flatten” the coat, causing it to lose insulating ability. That doesn’t mean that blanketing this year means an obligation to blanket next year, but once one starts blanketing, expect blanket duty all season long. Another option to help thin a heavy winter hair coat is to implement an artificial light regime, which will lengthen the amount of light in a day to 16 hours; this protocol is similar to that used to stimulate the reproductive cycle earlier in the spring.
Cold Adaptation
There are lots of other factors one can consider when deciding on winter horse clothing. Does your horse have trouble keeping weight on? Does the aged horse have trouble staying warm? Or, will the horse just tear the clothing off its body 30 seconds after it is in place? In any case, one can find a solution that works best for each individual horse.
Remember that when temperatures drop, horses have an increased energy (calorie) requirement to stay warm. Horses ferment fiber in their large intestine, and a byproduct of this process is heat. Thus, more hay added to the diet will help keep the horse warm during cold months. This process only works for hay; so increase hay and NOT grain. As a general rule, a 1% increase in energy requirement is needed to replace energy loss from cold weather for each degree the temperature falls below the horse’s critical temperature. Critical temperature is the temperature below which a horse starts to expend additional energy to provide warmth. This temperature for individual horses will vary because of fat cover, hair thickness, acclimatization of the horse to cold, wetness, and wind-chill.
Adaptation to cold is also important. The climate in the Northeast usually changes gradually, so horses have time to adjust to temperature changes. If one opts not to blanket, the horse will grow its coat naturally. If blanketing, one may find changing blankets is needed in response to day/night temperature changes during seasonal transitions. Studies in beef cattle concluded that the lowest comfortable temperature an animal with a full, dry winter coat can stay comfortable at is 18oF. However, this temperature is 59oF if the animal is wet, clipped, or has a summer coat. It is likely that the numbers are similar in horses.
How does one know if a horse should have a blanket? Just because a person is cold doesn’t necessarily mean that a horse is cold. Imagine a horse with snow on its back. Normally, the snow should be accumulating on its back. If the snow melts and the horse’s coat is getting wet, it is losing heat and is at risk for getting too cold. A note of caution here – you don’t want to put a blanket on a wet horse. Wet blankets will keep in the wetness creating an even colder horse, and potentially create a skin fungus if not allowed to dry out properly. In this case, coolers come in handy. Fleece or wool coolers will wick the moisture away from the horse, keeping it warm while it dries. Once the coat is dry, a heavier blanket can be put on.
A horse’s weight should also be taken into account when deciding on blanketing. Overweight horses have an extra layer of fat under their skin that adds to their insulation and helps keep them warm. So if this is the case with a particular horse it might not need blanketing as soon as other horses in the barn. On the other hand, for a horse that is underweight, the extra layer of insulation is not present so they may be one of the first in the barn to need blanketing. Keep this in mind when removing blankets in the spring as well.
If deciding not to blanket, remember, horses evolved without our help; and unlike us, they do already have a natural fur coat. One may even see some frozen whiskers, or ice-balls on fetlocks – as long as the horse isn’t shivering and its coat is dry, it is probably doing well! It is still important to monitor the horse’s well being in the cold, and to help out with some extra warmth if need be. Whether a horse is blanketed or not, it still needs some kind of shelter from the elements (stall or run-in shed). Horses in a shelter conserve up to 20% more body heat than if completely exposed to the elements, and about the same if they can lie down on clean bedding.
Selecting a Blanket
Once blanketing is decided upon, how does one choose from the myriad of choices? What size does one buy? What style is needed (i.e. sheets, turnouts, stable blankets)? What is right for the horse?
Size
Fit is very important for a horse’s blanket. Blankets and sheets that are too big or too small can cause painful sores on the horse’s withers, rubs on its shoulders and general irritation. Measuring a horse is easy. Use a flexible tape measure (one used for sewing is best.) Measure, in inches, from the center of the horse’s chest, straight back along his body to the center of his thigh, just next to the tail. Ponies usually measure in the 60’s, average size horses somewhere in the 70’s and larger warmblood or draft breeds in the 80’s. Use this number to select the size of the blanket. It may be necessary to round to the nearest even number when ordering blankets and some companies only use even numbered sized (i.e. 76, 78, 80, etc.)
Type
Sheets are the lightest, and come in many forms. Light cotton sheets are great for the start of the fall season in dry weather. Sheets also come in tougher material which may be a good choice if the horse has a destructive streak. Sheets also come in waterproof form, and are especially useful in wet areas.
Stable blankets and medium weight turnouts are the next step up. In tack catalogs or the local tack shop, one will see medium weight turnouts in the neighborhood of 200 grams of fill. Stable blankets are typically not waterproof, however, some turnout blankets are water-resistant, and some are fully waterproof. For turnout, a waterproof blanket is recommended. That way a roll in the snow or a sudden snow shower or cold rain won’t put the horse at risk of a chill.
Heavy weight blankets are around 300 grams of fill. Their weight is noticeable when a heavy blanket is placed on the horse, or when it is washed at the end of the year! These are typically used for a fully clipped horse at the peak of winter, or during a drastic cold spell.
How does one know if a horse is too warm? This can be a problem when deciding when to remove blankets in the spring. If a horse breaks a sweat under its blanket, removing it or using a lighter one is warranted. Sweating under blankets is just as undesirable as putting a blanket on a wet horse. To be sure, check the horse a short time after blanketing. If the horse is sweating, a lighter blanket is recommended. On the other hand, if the horse is shivering, increase the warmth level. Remember in the spring, just because it is raining doesn’t necessarily mean horses need to be blanketed! It is best to check the temperature and the wind chill before deciding on blanketing.
Destructive Behavior
If the horse likes to rip blankets off (or the pasture mate does), make sure there isn’t an underlying problem, such as an ill-fitting buckle or strap, which is causing the blanket-ripping behavior. Assuming all is well, one can try anti-chewing applications (that are non-toxic of course) to help stop such behavior.
Finally, don’t just blanket a horse and forget it during the winter. There can be changes going on that the blankets hide (i.e. weight loss/gain, skin fungus or bacterial infections, blanket rubs, etc.). At least once a week, the blanket should be removed for a good grooming and to check for any problems.
Clipping
Many owners/riders clip their horses to prevent them from getting a chill if their long winter coats are wet after a workout. Sounds ironic, but clipping a horse for winter can actually help the horse cool out from a workout and prevent a chill caused by a wet coat. However, proper management of a clipped horse is necessary. Whether your horse has a full body clip, trace clip, hunter clip or any kind of clip, one should blanket when the temperature drops, especially for turnout. Some people recommend starting to put sheets on clipped horses when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, however, you should monitor your horse to decide what is best.
If one dreads clipping their horse, but doesn’t want a sweaty horse in January, one can blanket to help prevent a thick winter coat. Training intensity usually diminishes in the winter, and some horses rarely work up a lathered sweat. The catch with this approach is, once the sheeting and blanketing begins, it must continue throughout the season. When horses wear blankets and sheets all the time, it can tend to “flatten” the coat, causing it to lose insulating ability. That doesn’t mean that blanketing this year means an obligation to blanket next year, but once one starts blanketing, expect blanket duty all season long. Another option to help thin a heavy winter hair coat is to implement an artificial light regime, which will lengthen the amount of light in a day to 16 hours; this protocol is similar to that used to stimulate the reproductive cycle earlier in the spring.
Cold Adaptation
There are lots of other factors one can consider when deciding on winter horse clothing. Does your horse have trouble keeping weight on? Does the aged horse have trouble staying warm? Or, will the horse just tear the clothing off its body 30 seconds after it is in place? In any case, one can find a solution that works best for each individual horse.
Remember that when temperatures drop, horses have an increased energy (calorie) requirement to stay warm. Horses ferment fiber in their large intestine, and a byproduct of this process is heat. Thus, more hay added to the diet will help keep the horse warm during cold months. This process only works for hay; so increase hay and NOT grain. As a general rule, a 1% increase in energy requirement is needed to replace energy loss from cold weather for each degree the temperature falls below the horse’s critical temperature. Critical temperature is the temperature below which a horse starts to expend additional energy to provide warmth. This temperature for individual horses will vary because of fat cover, hair thickness, acclimatization of the horse to cold, wetness, and wind-chill.
Adaptation to cold is also important. The climate in the Northeast usually changes gradually, so horses have time to adjust to temperature changes. If one opts not to blanket, the horse will grow its coat naturally. If blanketing, one may find changing blankets is needed in response to day/night temperature changes during seasonal transitions. Studies in beef cattle concluded that the lowest comfortable temperature an animal with a full, dry winter coat can stay comfortable at is 18oF. However, this temperature is 59oF if the animal is wet, clipped, or has a summer coat. It is likely that the numbers are similar in horses.
How does one know if a horse should have a blanket? Just because a person is cold doesn’t necessarily mean that a horse is cold. Imagine a horse with snow on its back. Normally, the snow should be accumulating on its back. If the snow melts and the horse’s coat is getting wet, it is losing heat and is at risk for getting too cold. A note of caution here – you don’t want to put a blanket on a wet horse. Wet blankets will keep in the wetness creating an even colder horse, and potentially create a skin fungus if not allowed to dry out properly. In this case, coolers come in handy. Fleece or wool coolers will wick the moisture away from the horse, keeping it warm while it dries. Once the coat is dry, a heavier blanket can be put on.
A horse’s weight should also be taken into account when deciding on blanketing. Overweight horses have an extra layer of fat under their skin that adds to their insulation and helps keep them warm. So if this is the case with a particular horse it might not need blanketing as soon as other horses in the barn. On the other hand, for a horse that is underweight, the extra layer of insulation is not present so they may be one of the first in the barn to need blanketing. Keep this in mind when removing blankets in the spring as well.
If deciding not to blanket, remember, horses evolved without our help; and unlike us, they do already have a natural fur coat. One may even see some frozen whiskers, or ice-balls on fetlocks – as long as the horse isn’t shivering and its coat is dry, it is probably doing well! It is still important to monitor the horse’s well being in the cold, and to help out with some extra warmth if need be. Whether a horse is blanketed or not, it still needs some kind of shelter from the elements (stall or run-in shed). Horses in a shelter conserve up to 20% more body heat than if completely exposed to the elements, and about the same if they can lie down on clean bedding.
Selecting a Blanket
Once blanketing is decided upon, how does one choose from the myriad of choices? What size does one buy? What style is needed (i.e. sheets, turnouts, stable blankets)? What is right for the horse?
Size
Fit is very important for a horse’s blanket. Blankets and sheets that are too big or too small can cause painful sores on the horse’s withers, rubs on its shoulders and general irritation. Measuring a horse is easy. Use a flexible tape measure (one used for sewing is best.) Measure, in inches, from the center of the horse’s chest, straight back along his body to the center of his thigh, just next to the tail. Ponies usually measure in the 60’s, average size horses somewhere in the 70’s and larger warmblood or draft breeds in the 80’s. Use this number to select the size of the blanket. It may be necessary to round to the nearest even number when ordering blankets and some companies only use even numbered sized (i.e. 76, 78, 80, etc.)
Type
Sheets are the lightest, and come in many forms. Light cotton sheets are great for the start of the fall season in dry weather. Sheets also come in tougher material which may be a good choice if the horse has a destructive streak. Sheets also come in waterproof form, and are especially useful in wet areas.
Stable blankets and medium weight turnouts are the next step up. In tack catalogs or the local tack shop, one will see medium weight turnouts in the neighborhood of 200 grams of fill. Stable blankets are typically not waterproof, however, some turnout blankets are water-resistant, and some are fully waterproof. For turnout, a waterproof blanket is recommended. That way a roll in the snow or a sudden snow shower or cold rain won’t put the horse at risk of a chill.
Heavy weight blankets are around 300 grams of fill. Their weight is noticeable when a heavy blanket is placed on the horse, or when it is washed at the end of the year! These are typically used for a fully clipped horse at the peak of winter, or during a drastic cold spell.
How does one know if a horse is too warm? This can be a problem when deciding when to remove blankets in the spring. If a horse breaks a sweat under its blanket, removing it or using a lighter one is warranted. Sweating under blankets is just as undesirable as putting a blanket on a wet horse. To be sure, check the horse a short time after blanketing. If the horse is sweating, a lighter blanket is recommended. On the other hand, if the horse is shivering, increase the warmth level. Remember in the spring, just because it is raining doesn’t necessarily mean horses need to be blanketed! It is best to check the temperature and the wind chill before deciding on blanketing.
Destructive Behavior
If the horse likes to rip blankets off (or the pasture mate does), make sure there isn’t an underlying problem, such as an ill-fitting buckle or strap, which is causing the blanket-ripping behavior. Assuming all is well, one can try anti-chewing applications (that are non-toxic of course) to help stop such behavior.
Finally, don’t just blanket a horse and forget it during the winter. There can be changes going on that the blankets hide (i.e. weight loss/gain, skin fungus or bacterial infections, blanket rubs, etc.). At least once a week, the blanket should be removed for a good grooming and to check for any problems.
Suggested Reading
Cymbaluk, N. 2001. Management and Feeding of Horses in Cold Weather. Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, Ontario, Canada. Online at: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/livestock/horses/facts/info-coldweather-man.htm
Lewis, L.D. 1996. Feeding and Care of the Horse, 2nd Ed. Williams & Wilkins, Media, PA.
Mowrey, R. 1998. Horse Feeding Management: Cold Weather Feeding Practices for Horses. North Carolina Cooperative Extension Services. AG-558-6.
Source: https://esc.rutgers.edu/fact_sheet/to-blanket-or-not-to-blanket/
Monday, December 14, 2020
Water and Hay: Essentials for the Winter
With the brisk temperatures and frequent fluctuations of our North Carolina winter weather, it is always good to remember how critical these changes can be to our equine companions. If you’ve been in the horse business long enough, you have probably encountered a horse experiencing colic due to temperature changes. Keeping horses warm and hydrated in the winter, as well as in good body condition can be a challenge. Key factors in achieving this are providing shelter from the wind and rain, along with plenty of clean water and good hay. Here are some things to consider as the winter progresses.
Maintaining ample water intake is the most critical part of ensuring the health of your horse during cold weather. The horse prefers a water temperature of 45-65°F. Under normal conditions, horses will consume one gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight per day. An 1100 pound horse will consume 10-12 gallons of water daily. But, as water temperature decreases, horses will consume less. An 1100 pound horse may consume as little as 1-3 gallons of water per day when water temperature is 32°F.
Low water intake is directly related to the increased incidence of impaction colic. Water intake can be encouraged by increasing the amount of forage being fed prior to a drop in temperature. The resulting increase of dry matter encourages the horse to drink more water. Concentrate mashes can also be fed during the actual cold period when water temperature is below 45°F. Feeding 2-3 gallons of hot water mixed in a mash with a textured or pelleted concentrate mix will provide additional water intake. To avoid gas colic, allow for the mash to sit for 15 minutes. This will permit the feed to expand prior to feeding. If possible, offer 10 gallons of water (at 65°F or warmer) twice daily. Break and remove ice from water tubs, making certain to provide water that is available free choice.
Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical aspect to winter management of horses. This is the time of year where hay supplies can get thin, so planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is critical. When temperatures get below freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only forage option. Horses, along with other grazing animals, need hay to stay warm. Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just an increase in hay consumption. Those that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in hay during cold periods. For example, a mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet these temperature needs in cold weather. It’s important to pay close attention to body condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse. A long hair coat or winter blanket can often cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or “cover” there is over and around them. If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight, increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful. Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just for this purpose.
These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get through the brisk winter days that are starting and will be here for awhile. For more information or advice, don’t hesitate to contact your extension agent or veterinarian.
Monday, December 7, 2020
Managing Manure
Managing horse manure can seem like a burden especially in the winter months. But, that manure is a valuable resource for your farm. You can use it as a supplemental fertilizer for your pastures and hay fields and cut costs on buying commercial fertilizers. The key to being able to use this resource is managing it correctly.
- Never store manure in a low lying or wet areas because the moisture will cause nutrients to leach out out of the manure and you will be losing valuable resources for your fields. Also, leaching can be harmful for the ground around the manure pile and water downhill or down stream.
- If possible try to store your manure a good distance away from your barn to reduce fly and pests for your animals.
- It is a good idea to turn your pile or mix it every once in a while to distribute the heat in your pile and turn those fly larvae that are hatching into the heated center and kill them before they become adults.
- Always take a soil sample on your fields routinely, about every 1-2 years, because most of the time horse manure contains a lot of bedding, sawdust or straw, and those materials take time and nutrients to break down. Some of your soil Nitrogen could be fixed or unavailable to plants while breaking down those stemy and woody materials. Also, adding lime to your manure pile or spreading lime on your fields after soil testing will help break down materials faster because your soil pH will be more stable.
Scooping manure and mucking stalls is never a fun job, but since it is a necessity when keeping horses why not make the manure work for you in return.
Monday, November 30, 2020
Virtual Series for Horse Owners
Since pasture and hay are the wealth of a horse’s diet, it’s safe to say that forage management is critical to ensure a horse’s nutritional requirements are being met. Please join us for a three-part virtual horse series, via Zoom, beginning on December 10th. All three presentations will be held from 12 pm-1 pm. This series will discuss forage management topics relevant to horse owners but anyone interested is welcomed to attend! Please see the schedule and registration links below.
December 10th: Hay selection, testing hay, and estimating hay needs.
January 14th: Practicing proper soil fertilization to make your pastures more vigorous and productive.
February 11th: Management practices and tips for common pasture weeds.
If you are interested in attending just one or all three of the of the presentations, please visit: https://go.ncsu.edu/foragesforhorseowners to register! If you have any questions related to the series please contact Anthony Growe, Richmond county Livestock agent, at (910) 997-8255.
Monday, November 16, 2020
Hay Storage Tips
Purchasing hay to feed is costly so why not protect that investment? Proper hay storage does come with a price tag but will save you money in the long run. In this blog post we will explore the two main hay sizes that are fed to horses and the different storage options.
Round Bales
If you are purchasing round bales you have a little more flexibility when it comes to storage options vs. small square bales. You can store round bales outside, however, you do not want to store them on the ground uncovered if you can avoid it. Bales stored on the ground can absorb moisture and can have as much as 50% loss.
Best storage practices outside to minimize waste include:
·
Never
store round bales directly on the ground.
Pallets work well to keep bales off the ground for optimum air flow.
·
Storing
round bales end to end rather than a pyramid if uncovered.
·
Purchase
bales that are tightly wrapped.
·
Choose
bales wrapped in net wrap over baling twine.
·
Store
bales on well-drained sites and never under trees or in low lying areas.
· If you can, cover round bales stored outside, tarps work well.
Ideally,
you want to store round bales inside.
Storing inside can cut hay loss down to 5% or less which is significant. Keep in mind, even if you store round bales inside, do not store them directly on the ground.
Small Square Bales
Small square bales are not as forgiving as large round bales mainly due to their size. You definitely do not want to store them outside uncovered. If you have to store them outside make sure they are placed on pallets and tarped to keep the weather out.
Best storage practices for small square bales:
· Never
store bales directly on the ground, even inside. Any moisture that comes in can be absorb by
the bale. Pallets works well to keep the
bales off of the ground and to allow air flow.
· Make
sure to examine the shelter for roof leaks and rodents/wildlife activity. Deter rodents/wildlife as much as possible by
plugging holes, keeping the area clean, and using traps/baits if necessary. Some wildlife can cause diseases such as EPM
if horses come in contact with their droppings.
·
Purchase
bales that are tightly wrapped.
· If
you are using a pole shed or three-sided shelter be certain that the weather
cannot get to your hay and if it can, you may want to tarp the hay as well.
The
main concern with storing any hay is keeping the moisture out. You have to be careful though not to
encourage moisture when storing inside.
Your hay storage area needs to have good ventilation for air flow.
For additional information check out the following websites: https://extension.umn.edu/horse-nutrition/selecting-and-storing-horse-hay and https://site.extension.uga.edu/forageteam/2019/09/hay-storage-options/
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