Wet Winter Skin Infections: "Scratches & Rain Rot"

It's been a warm, wet, winter this year in most of North Carolina.  These are the kind of winters that cause mud in the pastures and on the trails.  Along with that mud comes fungal/bacterial infections to watch out for in your horse. 

Scratches

"Scratches," a common skin condition in horses, can affect the heel, the back of the pastern, the fetlock, and occasionally the cannon bone. Veterinarians may refer to it as pastern dermatitis or pastern folliculitis. It is also known as "mud fever", "dew poisoning", "greasy heel" or "cracked heels".  It basically looks like a bunch of thick scabs all over your horses lower leg.  Any horse can get scratches but it seems to be more prevalent in white legged horses and horses with feathers such as draft breads. 

 

Severe case of scratches, moving up the cannon bone 

Less severe case of scratches, only affecting the heel

To treat scratches, remember "Don't scratch the scratches!"  Picking the scabs will only make it spread.  Clip hair around the affected area and wash with antibacterial shampoo (chlorhexidine, betadine, or benzoyl peroxide) and let sit for 10 minutes before rinsing.  Do this once a day for about a week and then reduce to 2-3 times per week until resolved.  In severe cases a veterinarian may recommend antibiotic, anti-fungal, or steroid ointments. Prevention is the best method of managing scratches.  Keeping a dry clean environment for your horse and making sure legs are clean and dry after riding/turn-out.  

Rain Rot

"Rain rot", also known as rain scald or dermatophilosis, is a skin infection caused by a bacteria.  Though rain is one risk factor, any form of moisture such as sweating under a blanket can cause the inflammatory infection resulting in lesions along your horse's skin. These lesions cause small patches of raised bumps which are scabs containing clusters of your horse's hair.
While most often found on the horse's top-line, rain rot can be found on numerous areas of the horse's body, including their rump, face, and legs. Unlike many other skin conditions, areas with rain rot do not typically itch but can be painful and cause your horse to become sensitive to touch.  All horses can get rain rot, however horses with lighter coat colors as well as horses with compromised or poorly developed immune systems (such as young or older horses) have been found to be at higher risk. 

  

Rain rot across the back, loin, and croup

Up close view of rain rot lesions

Prevention of rain rot includes regular grooming and maintaining a clean dry environment for your horse.  Make sure to groom after rolling in the mud, especially if there are any open wounds present on your horses back from insect bites, etc.  Be sure to only apply a blanket when it's cold enough (body clipped horses below 60, moderate coat below 40, heavy coat below 30) to avoid sweating.  Treat affected areas with anti-microbial shampoo and currying until resolved.  Severe cases may require antibiotics from your veterinarian.  

For more information visit: Penn State Extension Rain Rot or Perdue Extension Scratches

Coggins: What is it and why do it? Horses in NC have Tested Positive Recently

It's already the time of year where horse owners should be thinking about Spring vaccinations and having their vet out for annual maintenance. Don't let the coggins testing slip past you this season either! It can be frustrating to have a group ride or show all planned out, just to discover your coggins are out of date. However, testing can be a smart idea whether you plan to travel with your horse or not. So, what are Coggins, and why do we need them in the first place?

Coggins Test Charts (or coggins for short) are simply forms indicating that a horse, pony, donkey or mule has been tested for Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA). The form should indicate that the animal is "Negative" for the viral disease. EIA is highly pathogenic, meaning very easy to spread, and is most commonly shared via biting flies that transmit blood, like horseflies. The disease can also be transmitted via infected needle, dental tools, or even bits. If an animal shows as "Positive" on the test, the USDA and state regulatory agencies require the equine to be euthanized (or occasionally under a very strict quarantine for its remaining life). Test results are valid for one year from the date the animal was tested. A test consists of a veterinarian drawing blood and sending it to an accredited lab for evaluation. The veterinarian will also fill out paperwork at the time of testing indicating the age, breed, etc. of the equine as well as take photos for identification. Many shows and events require riders/owners to present a negative coggins test before entering their facility. As of 2022, all states require proof of a negative coggins test for equines crossing state lines. In North Carolina, proof of a negative coggins test is required by law for equines traveling within the state as well. If you take your equine off of your property, you should have proof of a negative coggins test with you. Even if you don't plan to travel with your horse, it is smart to have a current negative coggins test on file anyway, because you never know when you may need to take an emergency trip to the vet or when an event you want to attend will pop up.

There is no preventative vaccine for EIA or cure. The American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) gives the following best management practices for owners:

• Use disposable needles and syringes, one per horse, when administering vaccines and medications.
• Sterilize dental tools and other instruments before using them on another horse.
• Test all horses for EIA at least annually.
• Test horses at the time of purchase examination.
• Stable owners, horse show and event managers should require and verify current negative Coggins certificates for all horses entering the premises.
• New horses should be quarantined for 45 days and observed for any signs of illness, including elevated temperatures, before introducing them to the herd. They should be retested if exposure to EIA is suspected at a 45-day interval.
• All stable areas should be kept clean, dry and waste-free. Good pasture management techniques should also be practiced. Remove manure and provide adequate drainage to discourage breeding sites for pests.
• Horses at greater risk, such as those in frequent contact with outside horses or who live or travel in geographic regions known for EIA outbreaks, should be tested more frequently, every 4 – 6 months.

For more information, check out the following resources: 

• Fact Sheet from the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services (NCDA&CS) about EIA: https://www.ncagr.gov/vet/FactSheets/equine.htm
• Article from the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP): https://aaep.org/horsehealth/equine-infectious-anemia
• Article about the counties that have had positive cases: https://equusmagazine.com/news/eq-edcc-health-watch/eia-in-six-north-carolina-counties/

NC 4-H Horse Program Opportunities for 2023

Did you know that North Carolina has one of the largest, most successful 4-H Horse Programs in the country?   Our 4-H Horse Program hosts many events, including clinics, contests, and shows, and has been very competitive on the national level for many years. 4-H Horse Clubs are available in most counties across the state.  There are five Extension and 4-H districts across the state, with many events to attend in the new year.  Be sure to take a look at the NC 4-H Horse Program website for a wealth of information on programs offered.

 
Be sure to read through and sign up for the monthly newsletters to find out what's coming up and what's been going on.  Check out the calendar of events.  Scroll through the educational material and educational events offered.   Contact your county 4-H or livestock agent to find out about horse clubs in your county, and how to get involved today!   

 

The Importance of Foal Watch

 For breeders aiming for a January foaling date, your wait is almost over!  However, after eleven long months, it's important to remain vigilant as the finish line approaches.  Before becoming an Extension agent, I worked as a vet tech for an equine vet in Texas.  One of the worst calls we answered while I was working there was a weekend emergency call from a non-client.  The horse owners had purchased a pregnant mare a few months prior but had not established a relationship with any of the vets in the area.  The mare had gone into labor overnight and due to the large size of the foal and other presentation issues, the foal did not survive.  In order to save the mare, the vet and I had to remove the deceased foal from the exhausted mare, whose labor had stalled hours prior.  The worst part about the situation was knowing that if the owners had been on foal watch and conducted night checks, there was a strong possibility we could have saved both mare and foal.  

If you are a new breeder, I encourage you to take foal watch seriously, and if you are an experienced breeder, remember to never get complacent.  Horses don't read text books, so even if you think you've calculated your foaling date perfectly, there can be surprises.  While 330 days (11 months) is the average gestation length, the range can be anywhere from 320-380 days.  With such a wide range, it's important to be observant throughout the mare's pregnancy so that you can spot the signs of impending labor. 

Knowing your mares normal behavior and appearance is the first step.  If you know her baseline, you can monitor changes such as a "drop" in her belly, swelling and lengthening of the vulva, loss of appetite, agitation, etc.  These can all be signs that labor is about to begin.  Keeping a notebook with observations can be a good way to document changes, especially if more than one person is monitoring the mare. 

Most mares will "bag up" three to five weeks before foaling.  Her udder is filling with milk and the teats will become enlarged.  The closer she gets to delivery, you may see white discharge or "waxing" on the end of the teats.  There are products available that can be used to test the mares colostrum (first milk) to measure the amount of calcium present.  Calcium increases right before foaling.  While these products can be helpful aids, nothing is more valuable than consist monitoring.  

Photo: www.ranvet.com: Note "bagging up" and "waxing"

When to start foal watch and how often depends on your experience in assessing pregnancy signs, whether the mare is a maiden or an experienced broodmare, and the health status of the mare.  On my family's breeding operation, we started doing night checks for an average pregnancy a month prior to foaling on a three hour schedule. 9PM, Midnight, and 3AM.  If we saw any signs of labor at those three hour checks, we switched to hourly checks.  While this may seem exhausting, remember that it only takes 30 minutes of stalled labor to create a potentially life threatening situation for mare and foal.  There are a number of stall cameras on the market that can make night checks as easy as checking your phone.  Consider sharing the load with family members or barn staff to avoid foaling season fatigue.  

Whatever your method, whether it's a stall cam, trudging out to the barn in your pajamas, or putting a cot in the tack room, make sure you're keeping a close eye on your mare and keep the vet's phone number on speed dial.  It's always better to establish a relationship with your vet before you make the emergency call.  If you need help locating an equine vet in your area, contact your local Extension Office.  

Winter Horse Care Tips

 

With the arrival of cooler weather, it’s time to think about making winter time modifications to our horses diets, management of potential mud, shelter from the elements and possibly the age old question of “Do you blanket your horse or not?”.

Feed Modifications

The average horse needs to consume in the range of 2 to 3% of their body weight per day to maintain an ideal body condition. The bulk of the horse’s diet should consist of forage (either grass and/or hay). A number of horse operations are limited in pasture grasses during the winter months, so it is not uncommon for the bulk of the forage to be met with grass hay. An average 1100 lb horse consuming 2% of their body weight in hay means that they should consume a minimum of 22 lb of hay per day. However, during extreme cold spells that same horse might need closer to 30 lb of hay per day to stay warm.

How do horses stay warm?

Horses are warm blooded animals and therefore try to keep their core temperature as close to a constant 101 ˚F as possible. To keep their temperature constant the horse will use various methods to thermoregulate and maintain this constant internal temperature no matter the surrounding environment. In the winter this may be through one of the following:

·       Vasoconstriction which is when the capillaries under the skin contract to reduce the amount of heat lost.

·       Insulation where the horse will use fat stores to generate energy for warmth.

·       Shivering where rapid contraction of core muscles produces heat.

·      Consume ample amount of forages, which are fermented in the hindgut, which results in energy being lost as heat. This heat helps your horse to stay warm.

Water Considerations

Its not uncommon during the cooler months for horses to reduce their water intake. Add to that, increased hay consumption can easily cause impaction if your horse isn’t drinking enough. Thus, it is wise to check your horse’s water source and monitor intake daily. Horses prefer to drink water that is slightly warm in the

winter and their water consumption typically increases if water is kept ice free. Removal of any ice or if at all possible, is ideal, or add a water heater to your tank or bucket to raise the water temperature.

Mud Management

There is likely not a horse farm in North Carolina that does not have to deal with mud from time to time during the winter months. It is common for mud to develop around feeders, waterers, and gates, but so long as the horse does not have to stand in it for any length of time is ideal.

You might consider creating a sacrifice area or dry lot where you feed and water your animals to help prevent mud and erosion issues. During wet winters, having a dry lot can help prevent the destruction of your pastures. While the idea sounds simple, it does require a bit of planning to mitigate the buildup of mud and/or erosion. You need to make sure the area can support the number of horses you want to put in it and you want it to be relatively close to the barn — you will probably be moving horses in and out in some colder weather, and you’ll be feeding a lot of hay. Careful consideration should also be given to footing around heavy use areas like feeders, waterers and gates. There are several Cooperative Extension resources online on how best to construct sacrifice areas/dry lots.

Shelter

Horses need shelter from the elements. Shelter comes in a variety of forms and sizes and the type you use largely depends on your facilities and finances. Trees can act as a natural wind barrier and can also provide some protection from inclement weather. A three-sided shelter provides the best protection from winter precipitation for pastured horses. It is also important to ensure that your shelter offers adequate space for the number of animals you have; otherwise, more than one appropriate shelter should be provided to allow for their natural behavior and accommodates their natural hierarchy so that even the lowest horse in the pecking order can benefit from the shelter.

Should I blanket my horse?

A common question that many horse owners ask but is not always a cut and dry conclusion. Here are some factors which may affect this decision.

Coat -- Coat will play a big factor in the horse’s ability to retain heat, and whether a horse has a thick coat, hasn’t grown one yet or has been clipped should be considered before deciding on a blanket. Those that are clipped are going to need more help than those that have a thick coat.

Age -- Generally older and younger horses will not cope with colder temperatures as well as the average adult horse. Typically, younger horses are smaller and have less body fat and older horses may be less efficient at controlling their body temperature or may have health problems and/or have less overall body fat.

Weather -- The worst conditions for any horse, in terms of heat regulation, would be low air temperatures combined with strong winds and wet precipitation, which is quite common during North Carolina winters.

Shelter -- Horses that don’t have access to manmade shelter will often benefit from an appropriate turnout blanket during inclement weather.

Take Home Message

Feeding a diet high in forages, monitoring water intake, managing for mud, and providing appropriate shelter or blanketing against the elements are all great ways to ensure your horses’ health and wellbeing during the long winter months.

Water and Hay: Essentials for the Winter

 

With the brisk temperatures we are beginning to have and frequent fluctuations of our North Carolina winter weather, it is always good to remember how critical these changes can be to our equine companions.  If you’ve been in the horse business long enough, you have probably encountered a horse experiencing colic due to temperature changes.  Keeping horses warm and hydrated in the winter, as well as in good body condition can be a challenge.  Key factors in achieving this are providing shelter from the wind and rain, along with plenty of clean water and good hay.  Here are some things to consider as the winter progresses.

 

Maintaining ample water intake is the most critical part of ensuring the health of your horse during cold weather.  The horse prefers a water temperature of 45-65°F.  Under normal conditions, horses will consume one gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight per day.  An 1100 pound horse will consume 10-12 gallons of water daily.  But, as water temperature decreases, horses will consume less.  An 1100 pound horse may consume as little as 1-3 gallons of water per day when water temperature is 32°F. 

 Low water intake is directly related to the increased incidence of impaction colic.  Water intake can be encouraged by increasing the amount of forage being fed prior to a drop in temperature.  The resulting increase of dry matter encourages the horse to drink more water.  Concentrate mashes can also be fed during the actual cold period when water temperature is below 45°F.  Feeding 2-3 gallons of hot water mixed in a mash with a textured or pelleted concentrate mix will provide additional water intake.  To avoid gas colic, allow for the mash to sit for 15 minutes. This will permit the feed to expand prior to feeding.  If possible, offer 10 gallons of water (at 65°F or warmer) twice daily.  Break and remove ice from water tubs, making certain to provide water that is available free choice. 

 

Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical aspect to winter management of horses.  This is the time of year where hay supplies can get thin, so planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is critical.  When temperatures get below freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only forage option.  Horses, along with other grazing animals, need hay to stay warm.  Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just an increase in hay consumption.  Those that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in hay during cold periods.  For example, a mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet these temperature needs in cold weather.  It’s important to pay close attention to body condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse.  A long hair coat or winter blanket can often cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or “cover” there is over and around them.  If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight, increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful.  Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just for this purpose. 

 

These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get through the brisk winter days that are starting and will be here for awhile. For more information and advice, don’t hesitate to contact your veterinarian and/or extension agent. 

 

 

 

Thinking ahead for Breeding and Foaling Season

It is never too early to think and plan ahead, especially when a foal is on the line. Horses are normally bred during the months of May - August and foal during the following spring of the year. Breeding mares are a serious investment of money and time and being prepared for a successful foaling can help ensure safe delivery. This article linked below gives tips to care for the mare during the breeding and foaling season. 

https://extension.umn.edu/horse-health/caring-your-mare-during-breeding-and-foaling