The Importance of Foal Watch

 For breeders aiming for a January foaling date, your wait is almost over!  However, after eleven long months, it's important to remain vigilant as the finish line approaches.  Before becoming an Extension agent, I worked as a vet tech for an equine vet in Texas.  One of the worst calls we answered while I was working there was a weekend emergency call from a non-client.  The horse owners had purchased a pregnant mare a few months prior but had not established a relationship with any of the vets in the area.  The mare had gone into labor overnight and due to the large size of the foal and other presentation issues, the foal did not survive.  In order to save the mare, the vet and I had to remove the deceased foal from the exhausted mare, whose labor had stalled hours prior.  The worst part about the situation was knowing that if the owners had been on foal watch and conducted night checks, there was a strong possibility we could have saved both mare and foal.  

If you are a new breeder, I encourage you to take foal watch seriously, and if you are an experienced breeder, remember to never get complacent.  Horses don't read text books, so even if you think you've calculated your foaling date perfectly, there can be surprises.  While 330 days (11 months) is the average gestation length, the range can be anywhere from 320-380 days.  With such a wide range, it's important to be observant throughout the mare's pregnancy so that you can spot the signs of impending labor. 

Knowing your mares normal behavior and appearance is the first step.  If you know her baseline, you can monitor changes such as a "drop" in her belly, swelling and lengthening of the vulva, loss of appetite, agitation, etc.  These can all be signs that labor is about to begin.  Keeping a notebook with observations can be a good way to document changes, especially if more than one person is monitoring the mare. 

Most mares will "bag up" three to five weeks before foaling.  Her udder is filling with milk and the teats will become enlarged.  The closer she gets to delivery, you may see white discharge or "waxing" on the end of the teats.  There are products available that can be used to test the mares colostrum (first milk) to measure the amount of calcium present.  Calcium increases right before foaling.  While these products can be helpful aids, nothing is more valuable than consist monitoring.  

Photo: www.ranvet.com: Note "bagging up" and "waxing"

When to start foal watch and how often depends on your experience in assessing pregnancy signs, whether the mare is a maiden or an experienced broodmare, and the health status of the mare.  On my family's breeding operation, we started doing night checks for an average pregnancy a month prior to foaling on a three hour schedule. 9PM, Midnight, and 3AM.  If we saw any signs of labor at those three hour checks, we switched to hourly checks.  While this may seem exhausting, remember that it only takes 30 minutes of stalled labor to create a potentially life threatening situation for mare and foal.  There are a number of stall cameras on the market that can make night checks as easy as checking your phone.  Consider sharing the load with family members or barn staff to avoid foaling season fatigue.  

Whatever your method, whether it's a stall cam, trudging out to the barn in your pajamas, or putting a cot in the tack room, make sure you're keeping a close eye on your mare and keep the vet's phone number on speed dial.  It's always better to establish a relationship with your vet before you make the emergency call.  If you need help locating an equine vet in your area, contact your local Extension Office.  

Winter Horse Care Tips

 

With the arrival of cooler weather, it’s time to think about making winter time modifications to our horses diets, management of potential mud, shelter from the elements and possibly the age old question of “Do you blanket your horse or not?”.

Feed Modifications

The average horse needs to consume in the range of 2 to 3% of their body weight per day to maintain an ideal body condition. The bulk of the horse’s diet should consist of forage (either grass and/or hay). A number of horse operations are limited in pasture grasses during the winter months, so it is not uncommon for the bulk of the forage to be met with grass hay. An average 1100 lb horse consuming 2% of their body weight in hay means that they should consume a minimum of 22 lb of hay per day. However, during extreme cold spells that same horse might need closer to 30 lb of hay per day to stay warm.

How do horses stay warm?

Horses are warm blooded animals and therefore try to keep their core temperature as close to a constant 101 ˚F as possible. To keep their temperature constant the horse will use various methods to thermoregulate and maintain this constant internal temperature no matter the surrounding environment. In the winter this may be through one of the following:

·       Vasoconstriction which is when the capillaries under the skin contract to reduce the amount of heat lost.

·       Insulation where the horse will use fat stores to generate energy for warmth.

·       Shivering where rapid contraction of core muscles produces heat.

·      Consume ample amount of forages, which are fermented in the hindgut, which results in energy being lost as heat. This heat helps your horse to stay warm.

Water Considerations

Its not uncommon during the cooler months for horses to reduce their water intake. Add to that, increased hay consumption can easily cause impaction if your horse isn’t drinking enough. Thus, it is wise to check your horse’s water source and monitor intake daily. Horses prefer to drink water that is slightly warm in the

winter and their water consumption typically increases if water is kept ice free. Removal of any ice or if at all possible, is ideal, or add a water heater to your tank or bucket to raise the water temperature.

Mud Management

There is likely not a horse farm in North Carolina that does not have to deal with mud from time to time during the winter months. It is common for mud to develop around feeders, waterers, and gates, but so long as the horse does not have to stand in it for any length of time is ideal.

You might consider creating a sacrifice area or dry lot where you feed and water your animals to help prevent mud and erosion issues. During wet winters, having a dry lot can help prevent the destruction of your pastures. While the idea sounds simple, it does require a bit of planning to mitigate the buildup of mud and/or erosion. You need to make sure the area can support the number of horses you want to put in it and you want it to be relatively close to the barn — you will probably be moving horses in and out in some colder weather, and you’ll be feeding a lot of hay. Careful consideration should also be given to footing around heavy use areas like feeders, waterers and gates. There are several Cooperative Extension resources online on how best to construct sacrifice areas/dry lots.

Shelter

Horses need shelter from the elements. Shelter comes in a variety of forms and sizes and the type you use largely depends on your facilities and finances. Trees can act as a natural wind barrier and can also provide some protection from inclement weather. A three-sided shelter provides the best protection from winter precipitation for pastured horses. It is also important to ensure that your shelter offers adequate space for the number of animals you have; otherwise, more than one appropriate shelter should be provided to allow for their natural behavior and accommodates their natural hierarchy so that even the lowest horse in the pecking order can benefit from the shelter.

Should I blanket my horse?

A common question that many horse owners ask but is not always a cut and dry conclusion. Here are some factors which may affect this decision.

Coat -- Coat will play a big factor in the horse’s ability to retain heat, and whether a horse has a thick coat, hasn’t grown one yet or has been clipped should be considered before deciding on a blanket. Those that are clipped are going to need more help than those that have a thick coat.

Age -- Generally older and younger horses will not cope with colder temperatures as well as the average adult horse. Typically, younger horses are smaller and have less body fat and older horses may be less efficient at controlling their body temperature or may have health problems and/or have less overall body fat.

Weather -- The worst conditions for any horse, in terms of heat regulation, would be low air temperatures combined with strong winds and wet precipitation, which is quite common during North Carolina winters.

Shelter -- Horses that don’t have access to manmade shelter will often benefit from an appropriate turnout blanket during inclement weather.

Take Home Message

Feeding a diet high in forages, monitoring water intake, managing for mud, and providing appropriate shelter or blanketing against the elements are all great ways to ensure your horses’ health and wellbeing during the long winter months.

Water and Hay: Essentials for the Winter

 

With the brisk temperatures we are beginning to have and frequent fluctuations of our North Carolina winter weather, it is always good to remember how critical these changes can be to our equine companions.  If you’ve been in the horse business long enough, you have probably encountered a horse experiencing colic due to temperature changes.  Keeping horses warm and hydrated in the winter, as well as in good body condition can be a challenge.  Key factors in achieving this are providing shelter from the wind and rain, along with plenty of clean water and good hay.  Here are some things to consider as the winter progresses.

 

Maintaining ample water intake is the most critical part of ensuring the health of your horse during cold weather.  The horse prefers a water temperature of 45-65°F.  Under normal conditions, horses will consume one gallon of water per 100 pounds of body weight per day.  An 1100 pound horse will consume 10-12 gallons of water daily.  But, as water temperature decreases, horses will consume less.  An 1100 pound horse may consume as little as 1-3 gallons of water per day when water temperature is 32°F. 

 Low water intake is directly related to the increased incidence of impaction colic.  Water intake can be encouraged by increasing the amount of forage being fed prior to a drop in temperature.  The resulting increase of dry matter encourages the horse to drink more water.  Concentrate mashes can also be fed during the actual cold period when water temperature is below 45°F.  Feeding 2-3 gallons of hot water mixed in a mash with a textured or pelleted concentrate mix will provide additional water intake.  To avoid gas colic, allow for the mash to sit for 15 minutes. This will permit the feed to expand prior to feeding.  If possible, offer 10 gallons of water (at 65°F or warmer) twice daily.  Break and remove ice from water tubs, making certain to provide water that is available free choice. 

 

Providing good quality, nutritious hay is another critical aspect to winter management of horses.  This is the time of year where hay supplies can get thin, so planning ahead and purchasing enough hay to get through the winter is critical.  When temperatures get below freezing, winter pasture growth reduces tremendously, and hay is our only forage option.  Horses, along with other grazing animals, need hay to stay warm.  Hay and other forages are digested in the cecum and large intestine of the horse, and this digestion process is the primary source of regulating body temperature. Many horses can maintain their weight through the winter with just an increase in hay consumption.  Those that are harder to keep weight on or older will often need a gradual increase of grain as well. Horses should consume at least 1.5% of their body weight in hay during cold periods.  For example, a mature 1000 pound horse should consume 15-18 pounds per day of hay to meet these temperature needs in cold weather.  It’s important to pay close attention to body condition during these periods, and actually “feel” your horse.  A long hair coat or winter blanket can often cover up thin spots on a horse, so be sure to examine your horse closely and get a feel for where your horse’s ribs, backbone, etc. are and how much fat or “cover” there is over and around them.  If a horse given plenty of hay is having trouble maintaining weight, increasing fat to the concentrate diet may also be helpful.  Many “high fat” feeds are on the market just for this purpose. 

 

These are just a few tips to help you and your horses get through the brisk winter days that are starting and will be here for awhile. For more information and advice, don’t hesitate to contact your veterinarian and/or extension agent. 

 

 

 

Thinking ahead for Breeding and Foaling Season

It is never too early to think and plan ahead, especially when a foal is on the line. Horses are normally bred during the months of May - August and foal during the following spring of the year. Breeding mares are a serious investment of money and time and being prepared for a successful foaling can help ensure safe delivery. This article linked below gives tips to care for the mare during the breeding and foaling season. 

https://extension.umn.edu/horse-health/caring-your-mare-during-breeding-and-foaling

Got Bermudagrass Pastures? Need Spring Forage?

Two weeks ago, most of North Carolina experienced enough cool weather for our warm season pastures to go into dormancy.  This means pastures with perennial grasses like Bermudagrass or Bahiagrass will produce little to no forage until late April or May so it’s time to pull out the hay rings, hay huts, corner feeders!   Horse owners who have the luxury to stack hay to the rafters of their barn will probably have enough to get through winter but those who cannot store large amounts could be hard-pressed to find a decent supply come February.  Some hay producers scaled back on their fertility due to the ballooning cost of fertilizer.  Less fertilizer means lower overall hay yield so there is potential for a limited supply.  The best way to curb our reliance on hay, is to consider overseeding our pastures with winter annuals.  These are forage species that are planted in the fall (ideally September through October) to help compensate for the winter/spring slump that we experience with Bermuda and Bahiagrass pastures.  Winter annuals are a one-shot deal which means come May and June they mature and die.  When planning a winter annual overseed, there are a few things to take into consideration before pulling the trigger.  

Species Selection:

There are several types of forage species on the market so it’s good select the ones that fit both the horse and horse owner’s needs.  Make sure the species you select is frost/cold tolerant.  Grasses such as ryegrass, cereal rye, triticale, and winter oats are some of the most commonly winter annual grasses utilized for horse pastures.   

Site preparation:

Ideally, we recommend soil sampling your pastures before planting any type of forage.  The reports from the soil analysis give us a fertilizer and liming recommendation to bring essential nutrients and soil pH up to acceptable levels.  Considering we are on the later end of the planting window for winter annuals and soil testing is a 2-3 week turn around, I would recommend using a previous report if there was one taken within the last three years and work with your County Extension Agent to come up with a fertility plan “prescription”.  A winter overseed will need some form of starter fertilizer in the fall and then more in early spring as growth increases with warmer temperatures.  Splitting fertilizer applications allows the forage to utilize nutrients more efficiently which leads to thick, lush stands for your horse to graze.  Alternative fertilizers such as poultry litter, and manure are great sources of nutrients and are inexpensive compared to our commercial fertilizers.  The drawback with manures is they are harder to handle and apply without proper equipment.  

Note: Some winter annuals such as annual ryegrass can compete with bermudagrass during green-up in April and May so it is recommended that you devote only a portion of your pastures to a winter annual overseed.

Establishment:

To establish any winter annual forage in warm season pastures, we need to get any excess bermudagrass or bahiagrass growth out of the way.  The best way to do this is through mowing or grazing down grass down to two inches.  Again, since time is of the essence, a mower is going to be quicker than a grazing animal.  After pastures are clipped/grazed down, it’s time to plant your seed. 

There are generally two methods for planting.  First is using a no-till grain drill.  Although this is the best method to overseed your pasture, no-till drills require some horsepower and must be pulled by a tractor.  Several County Soil and Water District offices rent no-till drills for a reasonable fee. If you do not have access to a large tractor or no-till drill, the next option is broadcasting with a spreader followed by dragging with a chain harrow or piece of chain-link fence with weights.  This will help work the seed closer to the soil and increase germination.  For cereal rye, oats, or triticale the recommended seeding rate is 100-120 pounds per acre and for annual ryegrass you should plant 20-30 pounds per acre.  If you are broadcasting, we recommend planting the high rate to increase your chances of establishing a good stand.  If mixing two or more species, reduce the seeding rate of each by 50 percent.  For example, if you want to plant oats and rye together, plant 50-60 pounds of each.

Grazing Management:

Depending on weather conditions, winter annual overseeded in pastures can be slow to establish. Generally, rye, oats and triticale are not ready to graze until February. Ryegrass develops much slower and is usually not ready to graze until mid-March. Start grazing when plants reach 6 to 8 inches and stop grazing before plants reach 3 inches to keep from damaging stands! Winter annuals benefit from rotational grazing systems. Dividing pastures into smaller paddocks and rotationally grazing allows your forage to rest and recover before the animal returns.  This increases forage utilization and lowers the chances of overgrazing.  With adequate fertility and moisture, these winter annuals can produce 2-3 tons of dry matter per acre.   

Overseeding bermudagrass pastures with winter annuals can help compensate for the winter slump in forage production and provide your animal with nutritious feed in the spring.  If you are planning to overseed your pastures for spring grazing, the window is closing quickly!  If you have any questions about pasture management please contact your local Extension office. 

Teff Hay for Horses

 Teff is a warm-season annual grass originally developed and grown in Ethiopia as a grain. Although it’s been suggested to have lower palatability than some other more common grasses, in recent years it has become popular among horse owners in the U.S. looking to reduce the amount of sugar in their horses’ diets.

There is a bit of research looking at the use of teff hay in diets where low sugar, low starch forages are warranted or required and forage intake restrictions are recommended.

Staniar et al 2010: These authors report non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) contents for teff of 5.4% in the ‘boot’ stage and 8.4% in the ‘late heading stage’ of plant maturity. Both really low NSC levels and well below the 10 – 12% threshold considered safe for laminitic/ID/EMS/PPID horses. Variation in NSC levels between samples was also minimal.

Horses in this study ate 1.5% to 1.8% of their bodyweight in teff hay, with the lower intakes being on the more mature hay. Again, this is a good thing as horses on restricted diets are unlikely to eat this hay as fast as more palatable hays like alfalfa, so they should eat for longer periods of time for lower calorie intake.

McCown et al 2012: Reported that when fed to horses unaccustomed to teff and given a choice of either teff and alfalfa or teff and timothy, their intake of teff is lower than their intake of alfalfa (no surprise there) and timothy. BUT, when given access to only teff, intake was about the same as timothy hay. So they don’t relish teff hay, but they are also less likely to overeat it if they are overweight to begin with.

Askins et al 2017: These authors report that horses given free access to teff hay consumed 1.5% of their bodyweight per day which equated to 86% of maintenance calorie requirements. So the finding of lower intake on teff continues.

This study also reports that resting glucose and insulin levels did not change over 10 days while the horses were fed teff. To keep this in context however, ryegrass hay (which can be higher in NSCs) was fed as the control hay in this study and glucose and insulin levels also remained the same on this hay. Unfortunately the NSC content of the hays was not reported.

DeBoer et al 2017: In another recent study, these authors report that cool season perennial grasses had a significantly higher NSC content than teff pasture in summer and fall/autumn, however actual NSC content was not reported.

This research also looked at differences in plasma glucose levels in horses grazing either alfalfa, cool season grasses or teff and found that differences were minimal. However, we know that insulin resistant horses can maintain normal glucose levels, they just need a lot more insulin to achieve this.

DeBoer et al 2018: Authors report that horses grazing teff had significantly lower peak insulin levels when compared to horses grazing cool season grasses in fall/autumn… despite NSC levels not being significantly different between the grasses (the cool season grasses had numerically higher NSC values but when variation was taken into account they were not significantly different). It is worth noting here however that teff was not recorded with an NSC above 10% at any time point where the cool season grasses did reach 12.6% NSC in summer.

Overall, from the research available, teff appears to be suitable for horses who need either a calorie restricted and/or NSC restricted diet. However, if you are going to use teff hay for a metabolically challenged horse, it is still wise to test it to confirm NSC levels.

Adapted from an article by Nerida McGilchrist.

Are Fall Booster Shots Right for Your Horse?

 We've had a few cool nights here in the Carolinas and it finally feels like fall has arrived!  You may be thinking longingly of the rides you'll have without dripping sweat.  Maybe you even have a few fall trips planned?  Calling your veterinarian to schedule vaccinations is probably at the bottom of your list...those shots are only due in the spring right?  

Despite the cooler temperatures, those pesky disease carrying mosquitos we all despise will linger sometimes as late as November.  Mosquitos are known to transmit WEE/EEE (Western/Eastern Equine Encephalitis) and WNV (West Nile Virus).  You probably vaccinated against these illnesses in the spring, but over time, vaccines can lose some of their efficacy, depending on the health & condition of your horse and their environment.  Your veterinarian can tell you if a booster is best for your horse.  

In addition to insect borne disease, there are a number of respiratory infections that plague horses in the fall and winter months.  Two common examples that can be vaccinated against are herpes virus complex (including rhinopneumonitis "rhino") and equine influenza.  Not every horse needs to be vaccinated against these infections, but horses at higher risk for exposure may benefit from a dose of added protection.  Horses you plan to show or travel with this fall or horses stabled at a barn with lots of horses coming and going from other places are considered at higher risk.  Your veterinarian will be able to tell you if your horse falls into this category.  

The American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) has recommendations for vaccine schedules for horses in various levels of work. Having a relationship with a local veterinarian that can help you create a vaccine schedule that fits your horse is the key to successful prevention of disease.  

If your horse is a candidate, talk with your veterinarian and consider fall vaccinations.  You don't want to miss a minute of the best rides of the season!

Parasites: An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure

Many of us are familiar with the previous standard for deworming horses - a rotational system where a different class of dewormer is administered every 8 weeks like clockwork to all horses on the property. The problem with that, we now know, is that it increases parasite resistance, which in turn decreases the efficacy of those dewormers in the future. Let’s break down how this can happen: 

1. Dewormers are administered and susceptible parasites are successfully destroyed. 

2. The less susceptible (stronger) parasites are left behind, but have now encountered the dewormer and have the opportunity to form resistance to it.

3. Those less susceptible, now more resistant parasites continue to exist in the internal and external environments, and continue to multiply.

4. The same dewormer is administered again, but the parasites are now resistant and unaffected by it.

According to a recent article from PennState Extension**, “small strongyles have widespread resistance to benzimidazoles, moderate resistance to pyrimidines, and early indications of resistance to macrocyclic lactones. Ascarids have widespread resistance to macrocyclic lactones and early indications of resistance to both benzimidazoles and pyrimidines.” The article goes on to say that horses tend to develop immunity to ascarids (roundworms) while young, so small strongyles become the main parasite we worry about becoming resistant in our mature adult horses.

Table 1: Taken from University of Minnesota Extension

Fortunately, horse owners have several tools in their toolbox to reduce and prevent this resistance from building up on their farms in the first place. The proverbial “ounce of prevention” can include: 

1. Manure Management - You’ve probably noticed your horses avoiding grazing in certain areas in the pasture, specifically where they have pooped. This is a natural instinct to avoid parasites. When complete removal of manure from an area for composting is not practical, like a pasture for example, we tend to look towards harrowing or dragging to break up manure and spread it around. This can be beneficial in a dry, hot climate where temperatures have been high and rainfall low consistently for several weeks. This is more helpful for strongyles than roundworms, which can withstand the hot and dry conditions. However, in a moderately warm and moist environment, spreading the manure can be more harmful than helpful altogether. This can take away the horses’ ability to graze around the infected feces. The best case scenario is to be able to keep horses off of a pasture for several hot and dry weeks after harrowing or dragging.

2. Rotational Grazing - Moving horses from one pasture to another in general can be extremely beneficial for the horses as well as the pastures. A period of rest gives the grass time to recover and strengthen its root system before being grazed again, making it heartier overall. What you see on top of the ground in a pasture is typically reflective of what the root system beneath it looks like. Parasites also like to live in the bottom 2-4 inches of the grass, so being able to pull horses off of a pasture when they get down to about 4 inches can greatly reduce their exposure to parasites in the first place. The less parasites they ingest, the less there will be for you to have to get rid of. Stocking density comes into play here as well. It is important to make sure there is enough grass relative to the amount of horses it is expected to support.

3. Fecal Egg Counts (FECs) - These tests are a great way to estimate the current parasite load of your horse at a given time. It is important to ensure that the sample being tested is fresh, uncontaminated, and handled correctly. This test can help evaluate how effective a dewormer was when administered. It is important to note that this test is not perfect. It does not reflect adult worm load or larva, and has been known to miss tapeworm and pinworm infections as well. The main parasite a fecal egg count detects is strongyle eggs. Therefore, it is still recommended to deworm adult horses at least one to two times each year for the parasites that may not have been detected on tests, like tapeworms, pinworms, bots, etc. Fortunately, anthelmintic resistance has not been reported in these parasites as strongly as it has with small strongyles.

4. Knowledge - Understanding the life cycle of different parasites can be extremely beneficial to horse owners when they go to plan their parasite management strategies. Timing treatments and preventative methods to coincide with stages of the life cycle is important. You want to make sure you are conducting FECs, administering dewormer, spreading manure, and rotating pastures, all at the right time to minimize parasite burden. 

Finally, it's important to remember that just like with most other things, horses can vary significantly from one to the next when it comes to factors that influence deworming needs. Things like age, shedding rates, and natural immunity can be so different between individuals that it is virtually impossible to develop an effective one-size-fits-all plan for a farm. Make sure to involve your veterinarian in developing a plan for each individual horse. You can also contact your local extension office for further resources to help with pasture management, conducting fecal egg counts, and much more.

**https://extension.psu.edu/decoding-dewormers-types-resistance-concerns-and-use-for-horses

Common Types of Colic

 Colic is a word that terrifies horse owners. Colic is caused by many factors, including things we usually can’t control, such as a sudden weather change. Luckily, colic doesn’t always have to result in expensive surgery or euthanasia. There are multiple types of colic, and most can be treated if caught early. The four main types of colic that occur in our area are gas, impaction, sand, and twisted gut.

Gas colic is the most common, has the most straightforward treatment, and is usually not fatal. Gas colic can be caused by sudden changes in feed, ulcers, dehydration, stress, and insufficient forage intake. Horses may appear extremely painful, but this usually resolves with pain medication, fluids, and walking. This type of colic can be prevented by feed and environmental management. 

Impaction colic can be caused by feeding lower quality or stemmy feed materials, ingesting foreign materials such as seeds, and improperly chewed food.  This is common in horses who are older or need their teeth floated. Impaction colic can sometimes be treated by a veterinarian administering fluids, mineral oil, and anti-inflammatories. Impaction colic can be fatal if not treated quickly.  Owners can prevent an impaction by feeding appropriate forage for their horse, dental maintenance, and ensuring their horse drinks adequate water. 

Sand colic is common in horses that live in sandy areas, like the Sandhills and Coastal Plains of North Carolina, and who eat their hay off the ground. The sand irritates the intestinal lining causing pain and disruption of digestion. If not treated promptly, the loose sand in the intestines can harden and form stones, which are painful and may cause an impaction. This can be prevented by feeding out of a hay net or raised bale feeder, and giving supplements like Sandclear and Sandpurge.

The final common type of colic is the twisted gut, which occurs when some part of the intestine twists around itself and is almost always fatal.  The twist can sometimes be corrected by surgery if caught early, but often the tissue in the intestines begins dying before surgery can be performed. Preventing the other mild types of colic can help prevent a twisted gut. 

It is important to know the signs of colic so treatment can be started as soon as possible. Talk to your veterinarian to develop a plan so you can be prepared if your horse does colic. 

Signs of colic:

• Kicking at their stomach

• Flank watching

• Pawing the ground/acting anxious

• Bloating

• Excessive sweating

• Rolling

• Not eating or drinking

• Stretching 

• Not passing manure

• Tacky gums

• Heart rate over 50 beats per minute

• Lack of gut sounds using a stethoscope

If you suspect that your horse is experiencing colic:

• Begin walking your horse

• Call your veterinarian to inform them your horse is colicing

• Administer an oral anti-inflammatory medication as advised by your veterinarian

• Remove feed

• Keep horses in an open area to prevent getting caught on something if they roll.

• Ask your veterinarian to come to your farm if

• There is no improvement from walking and anti-inflammatories 

• You do not know how long the colic has been occurring or has occurred for several hours.

• Vital signs are abnormal.

• Gums appear dark red or purple

• If any of the above signs occur for longer than 30 mins.

'Tis the Season for Fall Army Worms and BSM

Last year, the Fall Armyworm made is presence a little earlier than what we typically see in our area of North Carolina.  This pest is one that hay producers and pasture owners usually have on their radar in late August but reports of damage came in during July. The Fall Armyworm is a common pest in hay, especially bermudagrass, and can decimate a hay crop or pasture if left unchecked.  Another insect that often goes unnoticed in hay fields and has become a common visitor over the last few years is the Bermudagrass Stem Maggot (BSM). Although there are several types of “worms” that can be found in a hay field. The fall armyworm and stem maggot are the most important to identify and control. 

Fall Armyworm Identification: 

To determine if a field has an infestation, look for caterpillars with dark heads that are usually marked with a distinct, pale, inverted “Y” on top. Typically, you will find a black stripe down each side of their body and a yellowish-gray stripe down their back. Fall armyworms come in a variety of colors including, green, brown or black which can make identification difficult.  

Before managing Fall Armyworms, it’s important that we understand this pest’s lifecycle.  Fall armyworms are the larvae (or caterpillars) of the Ash-gray moth.  Like butterflies, the Ash-gray moth starts out as a caterpillar before going through metamorphosis.  This moth has white wings with light gray spots. Female moths lay eggs at night and lay up to several hundred that hatch within 2 to 4 days. What hatches from these eggs are what we call fall armyworms. Development from egg to fully grown Fall Armyworm requires about 2 to 3 weeks. At this point, armyworms burrow down into the soil and form pupae. In about 10 to 14 days, the moths emerge and the metamorphosis process is complete. 

While this article concentrates on pastures, note that Fall Armyworms will attack centipede and bermudagrass lawns. Armyworms feed just about any time, day or night, but are most active early in the morning or late in the evening.  Because they are active in the morning, this is a great time to scout your fields. These caterpillars will march like an army across your fields eating plant matter along the way. They tend to start from a field edge and work their way across to adjacent farms.  In severe infestations, leaves will be completely eaten with only stems left behind. This highlights the importance of scouting your fields regularly so that you can implement a control measure in a timely manner.  

Stem Maggot Identification:  

The bermudagrass stem maggot (BSM) is a relatively new pest of bermudagrass, especially when it's grown for hay. This pest is native to south Asia and was first reported in the United States in Georgia in 2010. This pest is only known to infest bermudagrasses.  The adult stage of the BSM is a small, yellow fly, which lays its eggs on the bermudagrass plant. Once the egg hatches, the maggot moves to the top of the stem, burrows into the shoot and consumes the plant tissue in the stem. This stem damage results in the death of the top 1-2 leaves while the rest of the plant remains green. The damaged leaves can be easily pulled from the stem. Grass growth will be stunted and da
mage can appear similar to frost, drought stress. 

Cutting open the stem just below the dead leaves will reveal the tunnel created by the maggot and occasionally you can find the maggot. The full-grown maggot is yellowish and about 1/8 inch long. Once the maggot completes feeding, it drops to the ground and enters the pupa stage. The adult fly later emerges from the pupae. The life cycle from egg to adult fly requires about 3-4 weeks, and there are several generations a year. 

Should I spray? 

Most research has shown that an average of 3 medium to large armyworms (about ¾ of an inch) per square foot is enough to cause significant damage to your hay crop or pasture.  This threshold may justify a control measure, such as an insecticide treatment. For stem maggots, scout fields if you notice a frosted or a burn appearance on the newest growth of the grass. 

 

What can I spray? 

If you do choose to apply an insecticide, read the label carefully to ensure it is safe to apply on hay and/or pasture! There are numerous insecticide options available so choosing the right product can be a bit overwhelming.  Several pyrethroid insecticides, such as Mustang Maxx and Karate are effective against Fall Armyworm and stem maggot but are restricted use and can only be purchased with a pesticide license.  Other products, such as Dipel and Intrepid Edge are worm-specific insecticides and are not restricted use but may be higher in cost.  Regardless of what product you choose, be sure to abide by all label specifications, calibrate your sprayer and pay attention to grazing or haying restrictions!

If you have any questions concerning pasture management, or pesticide selection please contact your local Extension office.

Assessing Pasture Condition

How productive is your pasture?  Are there current challenges?  How would you rate the overall condition?  It is important throughout the grazing season that you walk your pasture(s) and evaluate the condition.  While you can come up with indicators to rate your pasture on, there are several helpful assessments available to assist you.  One of the more well-known assessments is called Pasture Condition Scoring (PCS) developed by the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS).  PCS is a systematic way to assess how well a pasture is being managed and resources protected.  It involves the visual evaluation of 10 indicators with a low score meaning the pasture has one or more challenges such as poor plant growth and/or weedy species invasion.  While a high score means the pasture is well-managed with productivity being sustained or enhanced.  Best time to evaluate a pasture is right before it is grazed.  The 10 pasture indicators (rated 1-5) that PCS uses is listed below:

·         Percent Desirable Plants

·         Plant Cover

·         Plant Diversity

·         Plant Residue

·         Plant Vigor

·         Percent Legume

·         Uniformity of Use

·         Livestock Concentration Areas

·         Soil Compaction

·         Erosion

In the PCS guide you will find very detailed descriptions for each of the indicators and a score sheet.  The PCS assessment is very thorough and highly recommended.  However, you can always simplify the process until you are ready for a more in-depth assessment.  In a recent horse workshop, we did a hula hoop activity to measure pasture condition.   Participants would randomly throw out the hula hoop in the pasture and measure the following within the hoop with a yard stick/grazing stick and by estimating:

·         Grass Height (avg. heights if they differ): ___________

·         % Bare Ground (estimate): ____________

·         % Desirable Species (fescue, etc.): ____________

·         % Weed Species: _____________

·         Other observations:

This activity led to great discussion among participants about pasture condition and also prepared them for what they should be looking for in their own pastures.  The main take away message is pasture management is not a passive activity.  You have to walk pastures and constantly evaluate how they are doing in case you need to adjust management.

Resource: NRCS Guide to Pasture Condition Scoring 

Understanding Your Forage Analysis

If you have ever dealt with Extension folks much, you know we are always suggesting you test something - maybe your soil so you can know what fertilizer to put out or maybe your hay so you can know what you are actually feeding your horse.  So you followed our advise and got your hay tested.  If you used the NC Department of Agriculture lab, then you got a report with a whole bunch of words and numbers on it.  Let's take a really quick look at what some of those numbers mean.  

The first thing I suggest people look at is Dry Matter.  This basically tells you how much water is in the hay.  Too wet and you could have mold issues and even spontaneous combustion.  Too dry and it can be dusty, brittle and you can have leaf loss/shatter.  Remember leaves are typically where most of the nutrition is located.  Ideally hay should be between 10-15% moisture.  Or dry matter should be between 85-90% on the test report.

For the next components, you want to look at the numbers under the Dry Matter Basis column.  This allows you to compare different hays to each other by eliminating the differences in moisture content.  You can compare apples to apples.  Look at the Adjusted Crude Protein component.  This accounts for the amount of crude protein that is actually available to the animal.  Adult horses at maintenance typically need about 10% crude protein.  Horses that are working hard (think a horse in training or a nursing mare) or a yearling will have higher protein needs.  In general, hays with a legume (alfalfa or clover) component will have a higher protein level than a strictly grass hay.

Nitrates can accumulate in hays during stressful times like drought or if too much nitrogen fertilizer was applied.  (not likely for that to happen too often given current fertilizer prices) The general maximum acceptable level for nitrates is 0.5%.  Note that different labs may report nitrates in different ways.

Acid Detergent Fiber (ADF) measures how digestible the hay is.  In other words, how much of the hay can actually be used and utilized by the animal.  The more mature the hay is when it is mowed the lower the digestibility because there is more cellulose and lignin present which is difficult for the equine digestive system to break down.  ADF number below 45 are typically good while numbers above 45 may indicate little nutritional value.

Neutral Detergent Fiber (NDF) is an indication of intake - how much will the horse actually consume.  If the hay is very mature, the animal is not going to want to consume a lot because it is tough and stemmy.  This is a measure of insoluble fiber, cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin.  NDF values under 65 are generally good, while values over 65 may indicate the horses will not eat it.

Digestible energy (DE) is given in a Mcal/pound measurement.  Horses in light work need approximately 20 Mcal of DE per day.

The calcium:phosphorus ratio should be between 1:1 to 3:1 for adult horses at maintenance.

The above information is very general in nature so that you, as a horse owner, can gain a basic understanding of what those number on the forage report mean.  Contact your Extension agent for additional information on forage reports or taking forage samples.  This article did not discuss sugars and non structural carbohydrates, which may be important when feeding horses with metabolic concerns.  Your veterinarian or nutritionist can provide additional assistance for individual horse nutritional needs.

Here are some links to some good articles for additional information.

https://extension.umn.edu/horse-nutrition/understanding-your-hay-analysis#:~:text=Optimum%20horse%20hay%20moisture%20ranges,%3A1%20and%201%3A1.

https://extension.psu.edu/understanding-a-hay-analysis

Are you ready? Hurricane Season is Here!

Hurricane season officially begins on June 1st each year but North Carolina tends to see most of our storms in the next few months.  We may have our homes and families prepared for a hurricane, but it is also important to have a disaster plan for our horses. Below are some tips and reminders from NC State's Extension Specialists Alaina Cross and Mike Yoder.

Before the Storm 

Vaccinations:  All horses should have a tetanus toxoid vaccine within the last year. Due to the increase in mosquitoes after massive rainfall, all horses should also receive West Nile Virus and Eastern/Western Encephalitis vaccines at the beginning of the hurricane season. 

Coggins Test:  A negative Coggins will be necessary if the horse needs to be evacuated to a community shelter or across state lines. 

Health Certificate:  A health certificate is required to cross the state line. This may be necessary if you live in a region that is near the SC/VA borders. A health certificate is valid for 30 days. 

Identification:  Each horse should have at least 2 forms of identification (in case one is lost). Have proof of ownership, including recent photos of the horse including any identifying marks/scars/coloration, ready in the event that you need to claim a loose horse. Examples of possible identifying methods include: 

• A well fitted breakaway halter (a regular halter can trap a horse and possibly strangle them!) with contact information (can be in the form of a luggage tag, a metal ID tag, a zip lock bag secured with duct tape to the halter) 
• A luggage tag with ID braided into the mane or tail (make sure it is water proof). 
• Livestock marker – write your phone number on the horses’s hindquarters with a waterproof livestock marker 
• Microchip 
• ID bands that go around the horse’s neck 

Evacuation Plan:  Hurricanes generally give us at least a day’s notice or two before coming into contact with land. Make sure that you have a written evacuation plan for your horses, especially if you are in a low-lying area, a flood plain, near water, or are near the coast. If you will be in the path of the hurricane, it is highly recommended to evacuate prior to the storm, as transportation with horses when wind gusts are over 40mph is hazardous. Decide at which point you will evacuate (for a category 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 storm?). Also prioritize NOW which horses will be evacuated in what order if you will have to make more than one trip. 

• Determine two evacuation centers (in opposite directions). For a list of evacuation centers in NC near you, click here: http://www.ncagr.gov/markets/livestock/horse/EquineDisasterResponseAlliancePartners.htm Ensure that your truck and horse trailer are ready for travel (tires in good condition, etc.). 
• Ensure that the vehicle is full of gas. 

Water:  Power loss often occurs with hurricanes, and many horse farms may find that they are unable to provide water to their horses. Each horse sould have 12-20 gallons of water stored per day. Fill all available water troughs. Be creative with your water resources! Line garbage cans and various storage bins or much buckets with plastic contractor bags and fill them with water. Consider a generator to run the well if you have large numbers of horses. Keep chlorine bleach on hand to add to contaminated water if necessary. To purify water, add two drops of chlorine bleach per quart of water and let stand for 30 minutes. 

Feed:  Store a minimum of 72 hours of feed and hay (seven days is best) per horse. It is very possible that roads will be closed because of down power lines and trees and that you will not have access to feed for a period of time after the storm. Cover hay with water proof tarps and store on pallets. Keep grain in water tight containers in the event of flooding. 

Farm Preparation:  Secure all moveable objects. Remove all items from hallways. Secure jumps, lawn furniture, etc. in a secure place. Place all large vehicles/tractors/trailers in an open field where trees cannot fall on them. Turn off electrical power to the barn to avoid any potential fire hazards with power surges or lightning strikes. Secure all gates. Ensure that all emergency tools are working properly and readily available. These include: 

• Chain saw (and fuel!) 
• Hammer/nails 
• Fence repair materials 
• Wire cutters/tool box/pry bar 
• Fire extinguisher
• Duct tape 
• Fuel for generator/tractor 

Emergency First Aid Kit:  Make sure that you have an emergency first aid kit ready and accessible (and waterproof!). Have any medications that a horse will need easily accessible and ensure that you have enough to get you through the storm and the aftermath. Some items that should be included: 

• Bandages (leg wraps and quilts) 
• Antiseptics Scissors/knife 
• Topical antibiotic ointments 
• Tranquilizers 
• Pain relievers (bute, banamine, etc.) 
• Flashlight with extra batteries 
• Extra halters/lead ropes 
• Clean towels 
• Fly spray/swat 

During the Storm 

In or Out?  Should horses be left in the pasture or in the barn? Recommendations from the American Association of Equine Practitioners say that if the pasture has good fencing and limited trees, it is probably best to leave horses outside. Well constructed pole-barns or concrete block barns may provide safety from flying debris, but the horses may become trapped if the wind collapses the building. If you have a sturdy shelter with access to a small, safe paddock, this would be ideal. A horse could escape the building if needed into a safe area. 

• Keep horses out of pastures and areas with electrical lines. If these come down, they can electrocute the animals nearby. 
• Trees with shallow roots will fall easily under hurricane force winds and can injure horses or destroy fencing. 
• Do not keep horses in areas secured by barbed wire, electrical wire, or high tensile wire during a hurricane. 
• Fire ants and snakes will search for high ground during flooding. Keep this in mind when selecting an area to keep your horses if they are to remain in pasture. 
• For NC Animal Disaster Sheltering Resources click here: https://www.ncagr.gov/markets/livestock/horse/EquineDisasterResponseAlliancePartners.htm

After the Storm 

Inspect Animals:  Carefully inspect all horses for injuries, focusing particularly on the eyes and limbs. 

Inspect Property:  Look for down power lines, fence damage, and misc. debris. Take photos of storm damage to present to insurance companies. 

Missing Horse?:  If your horse is missing, contact your local county animal control, sheriff’s department, or local disaster response team.